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2023 Harvest Reports Are In!
2023 Harvest Reports
<p>The 2023 vintage was certainly a mixed bag throughout Europe, particulaly in Italy where climactic hardships wrecked havoc troughout many regions. Whether is was a good or a bad year for the producers we represent, these harvest reports prove, as always, just how tireless and daunting their work is.</p>
<p>We are extremely fortunate to be able to represent this hard work year-in, year-out. So as we start our new year, let's give a big cheers to those who get the wine in our glasses! </p>
<p><a href="https://louisdressner.com/harvest-reports">You can go read all 31 2023 harvest reports here. </a></p>
Article
How does The New Website Work?
This is very exciting stuff!
<p><u><strong>Desktop vs Mobile:</strong></u></p>
<p>We know it's 2020 and people use their phones a lot. So we've worked hard on ensuring the site functions well on mobile (especially compared to what it once was). Having said that, desktop is the recommended way of perusing the site.</p>
<p><u><strong>Glossary:</strong></u></p>
<p>At its core, this has always been a website written for wine professionals *attempting* to glean information on the wines we import (and hopefully see a picture of the vigneron's dog). Since the language can be so technical, we've added an <glossary term="glossary" title="1427">interactive glossary</glossary> to the text for those unfamiliar with the baffllingly complex world of wine terminology. Even if you're a seasoned pro, it will frankly teach you a thing or two. And if you'd rather read the content without the glossary, simply head to the main menu bar and turn it off. </p>
<p> <u><strong>Our Wines Section: </strong></u></p>
<p>In the new "Our Wines" section, we've offered a variety of filter categories for you to explore and discover all the cuvées we import. These filters can be combined together to narrow down results. If you hit a wall, simply erase one of the filters or clear all filters. </p>
<p><u><strong>Actual Information About the Wines:</strong></u></p>
<p>Speaking of the wines, the number one complaint we would get from customers was the lack of technical information on the wines themselves. It's not a coincidence that we spend the vast majority of our energy focusing on the people behind the wines and their dogs; it's what we dig about what we do.</p>
<p>Having said that, 95% of the wines we import now have EXTREMELY detailed technical information, dare I say the most technical anywhere on the internet. Please enjoy now while they are up to date, knowing that half of these will probably be totally wrong by next vintage. </p>
<p><u><strong>Search:</strong></u></p>
<p>If you know what producer or wine you are searching for, the search should quickly autofill what you need. Go ahead, give it a whirl.</p>
<p><strong><u>Hyperlinks:</u></strong></p>
<p>Everything on the website has a hyperlink now. This means you can easily share a specific producer page, article, wine or filter combination with anyone. </p>
<p><u><strong>Copy/Paste:</strong></u></p>
<p>If you need to copy/paste anything, the glossary needs to be turned off for the text to paste correctly. Also, if you are going to straight up use our writing verbatim, PLEASE credit us when doing so. Seems obvious but we see it happen all the time. </p>
<p><u><strong>A Shit-Ton of Written Content:</strong></u></p>
<p>The articles themselves can often be very long, and for this reason we developed a Propriety Pop Up System™ where you can easily scroll through various articles/wines and "pop out" to efficiently look at the rest of the content.</p>
<p>We've tried our best to pack as many dog pictures as possible in there, but the digital ink has been spilled: the cumulation of decades' worth of writings from Joe, Denyse, Kevin and Jules is here for you to read. A huge part of the work with this new website was to find better ways to condense and extract essential information you need without getting lost in all that BORING text. </p>
<p>We still think you should check it out. Don't worry, there are plenty of pictures. And you might even find the writing interesting. Or funny. Or both. </p>
Article
EXPLORE
Les Ânes Ailés Producer Profile
<p>Francesco “Kikko” Pesci grew up in Rome. While working at various restaurants, in particular the infamous wine bar Litro, he was introduced to wines that blew his mind, most notably those of Panevino in <glossary term="Sardinia" title="917">Sardinia</glossary> and Ajola in <glossary term="Umbria" title="1058">Umbria</glossary>/<span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Lazio" title="585">Lazio</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Ajola’s relative proximity to Rome led to a burgeoning friendship with its founder Jacopo Battista, in turn inspiring Kikko to make wine himself. Up for a new challenge, he found himself an apprenticeship in <glossary term="Banyuls" title="135">Banyuls</glossary> helping Manu di Vecchi Staraz at Vinyer de la Ruca. The plan was to help out for a year, but that year became two, then five… By 2022, Kikko had the opportunity to buy two <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcels</glossary> and start his own project, Les Ânes Ailés. That same year he produced his first <glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintage</glossary> as the newest member of Les 9 Caves.</p>
<p>Both of Kikko’s <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcels</glossary> are in the mountain north of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Banyuls" title="135">Banyuls-sur-Mer</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> historically a lesser planted area. Both parcels roughly equal a <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectare;</glossary></span></span> Kikko had been familiar with the first <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcel</glossary> since arriving in the area, as it used to belong to Manuel of Vinyer de la Ruca. It’s a formidable place that can only be reached by a single, winding and treacherous road. At 300 meters, its <glossary term="Elevation" title="419">elevation</glossary> is very high for the area. It’s also unique in being <glossary term="Exposition" title="430">exposed</glossary> full North and majoritarily planted in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Grenache Gris" title="1158">Grenache Gris</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> This, combined with strong year-round winds and very low<span class="zalup"><span> <glossary term="Yield" title="1129">yields</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> produce two <glossary term="Barrel" title="142">barrels</glossary> of a singular <glossary term="Cuvée" title="363">cuvée</glossary> called “Kik-Off”. Kikko plans to replant white grapes here, as he believes the <glossary term="Terroir" title="1026">terroir</glossary> is excellently suited to produce a dry white wine.</p>
<p>The second vineyard, acquired from a retiring farmer, is also <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Terrace" title="1022">terraced</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> It too has unique characteristics, namely the presence of <glossary term="Sand" title="909">sand</glossary> soils because it is next to a <glossary term="Tributary" title="1046">tributary</glossary> to a river, something very rare in the region. Compared to the gnarled old vines normally seen in <glossary term="Banyuls" title="135">Banyuls</glossary>’ <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Terrace" title="1022">terraces</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> those closest to the water are almost comically huge. The <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcel</glossary> is also shadowed by the adjacent mountain, maintaining freshness. From this land, a wine called "Ticche" is made with the traditional <glossary term="Banyuls" title="135">Banyuls</glossary> composition: the three colors of <glossary term="Grenache" title="508">Grenache</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span>(<glossary term="Grenache Blanc" title="509">Blanc</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Grenache Gris" title="1158">Gris</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary term="Grenache" title="508">Noir</glossary>) and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Carignan" title="237">Carignan</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p>Rounding out the lineup are two wines made from purchased <glossary term="Organic" title="746">organic</glossary> grapes. “Arlequin” is 80% <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Grenache Blanc" title="509">Grenache Blanc</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> 20% <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vermentino" title="1081">Vermentino</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> sourced from two <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcels</glossary> in Laroque des Albères, a 30 minute drive north of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Banyuls" title="135">Banyuls</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> “Pierrot” is 100% <glossary term="Grenache" title="508">Grenache Noir</glossary> from nearby <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Calce" title="223">Calce</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> picked a bit early and made with minimal <glossary term="Maceration" title="610">maceration</glossary> to produce an accesible wine meant to drink young.</p>
<p>Oh, and for those that are wondering: Les Ânes Ailés translates to "the winged donkeys". It's an old Italian expression, <em>gli asini volanti</em>, which implies that if you believe donkeys can fly, you are a naive fool. In a moment of personal utopianism, Kikko came up with this name based on how impossible it felt that he'd actually succeeded in starting his own project in the most unprobable of places. In this case, the donkeys actually had wings. </p>
Thomas Puechavy Producer Profile
<p>Thomas Puechavy was born and raised in Paris. For most of his adult life he played harmonica, accordion and jew's harp in the band Moriarty (while it's possible you've heard of them, they remain a BIG DEAL in France/Europe since their formation in the mid-aughts. Denyse Louis is a fan and thinks you should check out the singer Rosemary's solo stuff…) Like many musicians we know, Thomas fell in love with food and wine during his extensive bouts of touring. In 2016, he decided to take the plunge into wine, studying <glossary term="Viticulture" title="1103">viticulture</glossary> and <glossary term="Enology" title="422">enology</glossary> in <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Amboise" title="100">Amboise</glossary> <span>.</span> </span> </span> His original plan was to work as an apprentice in various regions of France, eventually settling somewhere warm like the <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Languedoc" title="579">Languedoc</glossary> <span>,</span> </span> </span> where he'd work for someone else while comfortably tending a small <glossary term="Plot" title="1133">plot</glossary> of his own.</p>
<p>The first part of this plan worked, sort of. While working in the <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Loire Valley" title="602">Loire</glossary> <span>,</span> </span> </span> Thomas' boss at the time introduced him to a <glossary term="Vigneron/Vignaiolo" title="1089">vigneron</glossary> who owned 10 <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> of land in <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Vouvray" title="1121">Vouvray</glossary> <span>.</span> </span> </span> He was looking to retire and adamant his vines not be worked or purchased by someone already established in the area. It was an interesting proposition, but Thomas was asked to take over all 10 <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> <span>.</span> </span> </span> It was too much on his own; fortunately Puechavy knew of two other upstarts who were looking to start small <glossary term="Estate" title="427">estates</glossary> of their own. The three split the land, and in 2018 Thomas began renting 3.5 <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> in the village of <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Vouvray" title="1121">Vouvray</glossary> <span>, producing his first vintage in 2019.</span> </span> </span></p>
<p>To say Puechavy lucked out with his land is an understatement: these <glossary term="Terroir" title="1026">terroirs</glossary> are as good as it gets. The vines are sandwiched between those of Huet and Foreau, the two legendary, defining <glossary term="Estate" title="427">estates</glossary> of <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Vouvray" title="1121">Vouvray</glossary> <span>.</span> </span> </span> The vines, planted exclusively in <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Chenin Blanc" title="281">Chenin Blanc</glossary> <span>,</span> </span> </span> grow on <glossary term="Clay" title="301">clay</glossary> and <glossary term="Limestone" title="596">limestone</glossary> and are roughly 25 to 80 years old. The specificity of the <glossary term="Terroir" title="1026">terroir</glossary> is that it's much more <glossary term="Limestone" title="596">limestone</glossary> heavy than other parts of <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Vouvray" title="1121">Vouvray</glossary> <span>,</span> </span> </span> resulting in great drainage and unparalleled <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Minerality" title="662">minerality</glossary> <span>.</span> </span> </span> The prior owner worked them <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Conventional Farming" title="331">conventionally</glossary> <span>,</span> </span> </span> so Thomas is in the process of <glossary term="Conversion" title="332">converting</glossary> them to <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Organic" title="746">organics</glossary> <span>.</span> </span> </span></p>
<p>So far he has been very gentle with working the soil, as he does not want to damage roots that may still be at superficial levels after years of <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Conventional Farming" title="331">conventional farming</glossary> <span>.</span> </span> </span> He's also exploring the idea of <glossary term="Cover Crop" title="1255">cover-crops</glossary> and will most certainly replant certain <glossary term="Plot" title="1133">plots</glossary> of very <glossary term="Old Vines" title="740">old vines</glossary> that barely yield fruit. As an aside, it doesn't hurt that Huet and Foreau both have been practicing <glossary term="Organic" title="746">organics</glossary> and <glossary term="Biodynamic" title="160">biodynamics</glossary> for a long time and are Thomas' only neighbors.</p>
<p>Puechavy was also lucky to find a house built next to a large quarry ideal for wine production in Nazelles-Négron. One catch though: while Nazelles is technically within the limits allowed to <glossary term="Vinification" title="1104">vinify</glossary> <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Vouvray" title="1121">Vouvray</glossary> <span>,</span> </span> </span> Thomas lives 500 meters OUTSIDE of the delineated border! The <glossary term="Appellation" title="113">appellation</glossary> being notoriously strict with its zoning (<a href="https://punchdrink.com/articles/montlouis-sur-loire-vs-vouvray-wine-chenin-blanc-battleground/" target="_blank">we recommend reading this article for context</a>), Puechavy is only allowed to label his wines as <glossary term="AOC" title="108">AOC</glossary> <glossary term="Touraine" title="1036">Touraine</glossary> ; in such he's decided to <glossary term="Declassification" title="383">declassify</glossary> them all to <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Vin de France" title="1092">Vin de France</glossary> <span>.</span> </span> </span> It felt like was an unfair disadvantage ar first, but over the years (and in spite of working some of the best <glossary term="Terroir" title="1026">terroirs</glossary> in the <glossary term="Loire Valley" title="602">Loire</glossary> ) he's come to embrace this unique, slightly absurd standing.</p>
<p>Work in the <glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary> is straightforward. Thomas divides the grapes between younger and <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Old Vines" title="740">older vines</glossary> <span>,</span> </span> </span> which are then <glossary term="Direct Press" title="392">direct-pressed</glossary> to <glossary term="Fermentation" title="441">ferment</glossary> and <glossary term="Aging" title="74">age</glossary> in <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Barrel" title="142">barrel</glossary> <span>.</span> </span> </span> From the younger vines, a wine called "Rayon Blanc" is produced, <glossary term="Bottling" title="185">bottled</glossary> 14-16 months after it was <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvested</glossary> <span>.</span> </span> </span> From the <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Old Vines" title="740">old vines</glossary> <span>,</span> </span> </span> a wine called "Les Doyennes" is produced with an extra year of <glossary term="Elevage" title="418">elevage</glossary> in <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Barrel" title="142">barrel</glossary> <span>,</span> </span> </span> <glossary term="Bottling" title="185">bottled</glossary> 26-28 months after <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvest</glossary> <span>.</span> </span> </span> A <glossary term="Pétillant Naturel" title="778">pétillant naturel</glossary> called "Les Turbulants" is also made from the younger vines, partially <glossary term="Fermentation" title="441">fermenting</glossary> in <glossary term="Fiberglass" title="445">fiberglass</glossary> before continuing in bottle. Puechavy lets the wines <glossary term="Spontaneous Fermentation" title="976">ferment naturally</glossary> and does not <glossary term="Filtration" title="447">filter</glossary> or <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Fining" title="449">fine</glossary> <span>.</span> </span> </span> When it comes to <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Sulfites" title="993">S02</glossary> <span>,</span> </span> </span> for the time being he remains pragmatic: the goal is to not use any if possible, but Thomas is not averse to adding <glossary term="Sulfites" title="993">sulfur</glossary> at any point he feels the wines need them. This has varied <glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintage</glossary> to <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintage</glossary> <span>,</span> </span> </span> <glossary term="Cuvée" title="363">cuvée</glossary> to <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Cuvée" title="363">cuvée</glossary> <span>.</span> </span> </span></p>
<p>Having only started in 2019, we cannot wait to see the wines' evolution as the land recovers from its <glossary term="Organic" title="746">organic</glossary> <glossary term="Conversion" title="332">conversion</glossary> and Thomas gains more insight/ experience in the vines and <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary> <span>.</span> </span> </span> The wines are already unmistakably " <glossary term="Vouvray" title="1121">Vouvray</glossary> " and resonant of their fantastic <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Terroir" title="1026">terroir</glossary> <span>.</span> </span> </span> We're not going to bullshit you and say they are in the same league as Foreau or Huet, but connaisseurs should find parallels in the wines' structure. <glossary term="Vin de France" title="1092">VDF's</glossary> like no other!</p>