Olivier Horiot's Rosé des Riceys.
In the southern-most part of the Champagne region, the Côte des Bar in the Aube department, there is the town of Les Riceys where the slopes are blessed with the portlandian formation of Kimmeridgian chalk, that same great stuff that is the foundation of the finest Chablis and Sancerre. Except here the idea was to plant Pinot Noir on these chalky slopes, do a long maceration, often using whole bunches, and then age it a few years (at least 3) before release -- not exactly your average deck wine.
Olivier Horiot is a young man that has taken over the estate of his father Serge in 1999. He immediately started using organic and some biodynamic practices and reoriented the winemaking to being more terroir-focused. In order to make the Rosé des Riceys, Olivier does a very strict selection of grapes from two separate sights - en Valingrain and en Barmont - vinifying them separately. The wines start with about 10% of the grapes that are foot-trodden at the bottom of the cuve, then whole bunches are added. Macerations usually last 5-6 days with pumping over twice a day. After the wine is racked into older barrels, it remains there for a few years before being bottled without fining or filtration. 2005 is the current vintage of the en Valingrain and actually had 7 days of maceration.
Of course, they also make Champagnes even if Olivier's preference is making the still wines. We are bringing in the Sève Rose, which is from 2006 fruit (he does not hold it back long enough to label it a vintage) and is 50% from barrel-fermented wines. It has 2 grams of dosage.
A.O.C Rosé des Riceys "En Valigrain"
Soil: Kimmeridgian chalk
Grape: Pinot Noir
Vinification: strict selection of grapes from two separate sights - en Valingrain and en Barmont - vinifying them separately. The wines start with about 10% of the grapes that are foot-trodden at the bottom of the cuve, then whole bunches are added. Macerations usually last 5-6 days with pumping over twice a day. after the wine is racked into older barrels and remains there for a few years. it is bottled without fining or filtration.
Aged in barrel on the lees.
Champagne "En Barmont" Sève
Soil: Kimmeridgian chalk
Grape: Pinot Noir
Vines: "Barmont" parcel
Vinification: fermented and aged in barrel.
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