What force of nature brought Angiolino Maule to the vines? On meeting him, you would swear he was born to it, that he breathes it, that the vineyard is deeply a part of his soul. A man of true conviction in viticulture and viniculture, Angiolino actually started his working life as a pizzaiolo, or pizza maker, of some renown in Italy. But the earth and the vines were calling him all the while. Through his hard work and sterling reputation, Angiolino was able to save enough money to start his winery. He chose Gambellara and, principally, the Garganega grape to make his magical music in a glass.
This visit at La Biancara took place in November, 2011.
Words by Jules Dressner, photos by Alex Finberg.
"I Masieri" Bianco and Rosso:
The white is made from the grapes of the second pass in the vineyard (the first being the grapes selected for the other cuvees) and from the less evocative vineyard sites. It is vinifed in stainless steel with no skin contact and bottled in May or June of the following year with a minimal amount of sulfites added before bottling to stabilize the wine for travel.
The red is made from his own grapes and some purchased grapes (Angiolino is active in the practices used in the source material’s vineyards) and is a blend of varying amount of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Lagrein depending on the year. Detailed percentages can be found on the back of the bottle. The vinifications are done in open wooden vats with punching down 3-4 times a day for 12-15 days and 10 more days of skin contact before the initial racking. The wine is aged partly in stainless and in large wooden barrels. It is assembled in February and bottled early to capture the fruit and its easy-drinking style.