Dora does all the viticultural work alone, taking care of 100% of the vine maintenance: she works the soil, prunes and ties every vine of her 3.5 hectare estate by herself. She's in her 70's.
Dora does all the viticultural work alone, taking care of 100% of the vine maintenance: she works the soil, prunes and ties every vine of her 3.5 hectare estate by herself. She's in her 70's.
Dora does all the viticultural work alone, taking care of 100% of the vine maintenance: she works the soil, prunes and ties every vine of her 3.5 hectare estate by herself. She's in her 70's.
<p>Poderi Sanguineto 1 & 2 is the family <glossary title="427">estate</glossary> of Dora Forsoni in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="681">Montepulciano</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> the legendary hill town of southern <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1055">Tuscany</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Dora and her partner Patrizia Castiglioni continue to do all the work on the farm where Dora's father taught her from generations of knowledge how to tend the <glossary title="740">old vines</glossary> of true <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="832">Prugnolo Gentile</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="625">Mammolo</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="229">Canaiolo</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> Nero Toscano and <glossary title="911">Sangiovese</glossary> and how to make the wine as it has been made for generations.</p>
<p>Dora has been working on the farm since 1968. Vines have always represented a small part of the 35 <glossary title="523">hectare</glossary> property (4.7 <glossary title="523">hectares</glossary><strong> </strong>as of 2013). Up until 1997, the wine had always been sold indiscriminately in bulk. In 1996, while cleaning up some of her father's old belongings, Dora found one of the very few unmarked bottles he had kept for himself. While the <glossary title="1109">vintage</glossary> was unknown, it was most probably from the late 1970's. More importantly, the wine was so good that it inspired Dora to start <glossary title="185">bottling</glossary> independently.</p>
<p>Dora is a true force of nature. Now well into her 70's, she still farms 100% of the vineyards alone, only allowing outsiders during <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> time to pick grapes. She is an avid hunter who "hates wasting bullets" and butchers all her kills. And despite her rugged exterior, she's one of the funniest, warmest, friendliest, brutally honest and passionate people we've ever met. And to top it off, she has excellent fashion sense; her sister works for a high end Milanese fashion line and gets Dora exclusive, tailored pieces that that make her look like a rock star. Truth be told, she actually is one.<br />
<br />
There are no <glossary title="526">herbicides</glossary> or <glossary title="1142">pesticides</glossary> used here. The <glossary title="441">fermentations</glossary> are done using <glossary title="538">indigenous yeasts</glossary> in either <glossary title="325">concrete</glossary> <glossary title="1140">vats</glossary> or old <glossary title="184">botti</glossary> of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="962">slavonian oak</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> The results are an exciting revelation of focused, clear <glossary title="1026">terroir</glossary> wines from a region most people associate with a forest of spoof.</p>
interview27.06.2019
A video Interview with Dora Forsoni of Poderi Sanguineto
<p><strong><em>This visit to Poderi Sanguineto 1&2 took place in April, 2013.</em></strong></p>
<p><strong><em>Words by Jules Dressner, photos by Maya Pedersen.</em></strong></p>
<p>Dora Forsoni is probably the coolest person I know. Even with the language barrier, she manages to be one of the funniest, warmest, friendliest, brutally honest and passionate people I've ever met. Spending time with her at the Sanguineto farm has been a true inspiration on both of my visits. In LDM's portfolio of characters, Dora is up there at the very top.<br />
<br />
We arrived in the late afternoon, and were greeted by Patricia. She quickly filled us in on all the juicy animal gossip, namely that one of the geese is in love with one of the hens and its chicks. </p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//b7/6c/b76cc8c8cb52d095a5f7d6db1c8c8a48.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//61/2e/612e12ad0f185481819d83abde18e44f.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//7a/20/7a2054072d22e75d3b1175851eb69ebf.jpg" /></p>
<p>It follows them around at all times, protecting them from danger.</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//0b/32/0b32e0173d43b09172f538093244d152.jpg" /></p>
<p>Dora was busy <glossary title="810">plowing</glossary> a new, two<font color="#7b143e"><strong> <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectare</glossary></strong></font> <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcel</glossary> she planted this year, so we walked over to say hello. After dramatically pulling up in front of us and jumping out of her tractor, the visit officially started. </p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//85/70/8570a039e1eba03e677134f72956a8d1.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//4e/1d/4e1de47641c753973f2607693de8dc3a.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//ea/1d/ea1dd42b141aba3320e28e8506ca013b.jpg" /></p>
<p>A <font color="#7b143e"><strong><glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectare</glossary></strong></font> of this new <glossary title="1133">plot</glossary> will be used to produce <glossary title="535">IGT</glossary> Rosso, and the rest will go into <glossary term="Vino Nobile di Montepulciano" title="1353">Vino Nobile</glossary> and the <font color="#7b143e"><strong><glossary term="Bianco" title="158">Bianco</glossary></strong></font>. In Sanguineto's case, the <glossary title="874">Rosso</glossary> and <glossary term="Vino Nobile di Montepulciano" title="1353">Vino Nobile</glossary> grapes have always come from the same vineyards, but a newer law forces <glossary title="427">estates</glossary> to claim which grapes will go into what for all new plantations. In total, the farm is 35 <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> with 4.7 of those in vines. Everything is and always has been in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="941">massale</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p>The new plantation is next to a large portion of the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="740">old vines</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> which we checked out next. </p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//78/60/7860cbe264ef71d8ae77149317368e3b.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//00/b9/00b9050260caef252cc453a2e4be0a22.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//e1/13/e1138dec34cd503e63d81ebef2f60b66.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//24/03/2403f75bb97b1091b1c08d3831cf786e.jpg" /></p>
<p>As you can see, the rows have all been freshly <glossary title="810">plowed</glossary> with a tractor. Dora does this twice a year. <glossary title="279">Chemicals</glossary> have never been used in the vines, and Dora is very much against any manipulation of the plant, particularly <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="866">rognage</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> the process of cutting off the tops to create more sunlight and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="73">aeration</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> or alternatively to make more room for tractors and not having to tie them back up as they grow. <br />
<br />
<em>"Wineries that cut the top of the plant are doing the equivalent of cutting a human's veins. The plant stops concentrating on producing the fruit, because it needs to divert its attention to healing its wounds."</em> <br />
<br />
In a curveball twist none of us expected, Dora started breaking off vine stems for us to taste! </p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//08/ce/08ce8b6c311138b330d5e88541710c87.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//c6/a4/c6a4b3f74fbe747e96a248796055afc6.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//b9/1d/b91d7e7c3eec4ce92a3d439152ee6810.jpg" /></p>
<p>The idea was to make us understand why <glossary title="235">Caprioli</glossary> (<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-_f5XcwSHBw" target="_blank">little dear animals, no word in English</a>) -a big problem in many <glossary title="1103">viticultural</glossary> regions- love eating these so much. It was a mix of bitter and sweet, reminding me of lemongrass. <br />
<br />
After finishing up our snack, it was olive tree time. </p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//a8/ba/a8baf2ebf6ed9ae6c38d349d1fe60c30.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//71/59/71592577b32fabbf045f057631410bee.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//d4/af/d4af87f95817b70169298e85cb8fb7de.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//ca/c2/cac261814bc60ed6ee218ae6fe47e6cd.jpg" /></p>
<p>From there, we were off to the wheat fields, which take up a significant portion of land. </p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//e2/4a/e24abc4c1c64e8ce174967aba474c9ff.jpg" /></p>
<p>Unsatisfied with our previous snack, Dora started peeling off an un-blossomed wheat plant for us to taste. </p>
<p><br />
<img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//e6/a8/e6a832e928922d4cfee1eaabf399d848.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//37/cb/37cba823137fdf516e4890943d0dab0a.jpg" /></p>
<p>She seemed pretty happy with the results. <br />
<img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//9d/4f/9d4f840ea796433f0f69159d81862f52.jpg" /></p>
<p>Walking back, Dora started complaining about how the tractor work had gotten dirt all over her. After taking off her sweater to reveal a tank-top any thrift store aficionado would die for, she let her hair down and looked like a member of the best heavy metal band you've ever heard. </p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//d9/89/d98997ab3d713435b50cc2f0dda5e3c6.jpg" /><br />
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="360" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/WhRCVm-1r2k" width="640"></iframe><br />
<br />
Seek out this 1986 masterpiece if you can. Totally worth it. <br />
<br />
Here are some pictures of Casa Dora, aka "Dora's house".</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//19/97/199799bf992c4ecc178276d657503e55.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//f7/a7/f7a77a181fb8b484b5a76386428a4959.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//7e/6a/7e6a75972c8473b544781e7c86255677.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//fe/38/fe38eaf389b8e80ebd3a92308474168b.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//57/0e/570e4fe3b02eafa620ae10fefb6d7ed2.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//bb/7a/bb7a7fd3b4ef61b102b58683401cf978.jpg" /></p>
<p>In the <glossary title="1104">vinification</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="254">cellar</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> we got to taste the 2012 <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="158">Bianco</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> a wine Dora considers:<br />
<br />
<em>"The life of the </em><glossary title="329"><em>contadina</em></glossary><em>!"</em></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//8d/c8/8dc866b867983102f31678e50f1f1687.jpg" /></p>
<p>I've always loved this wine, and it's particularly fruity and generous in 2012. The <glossary term="Pressing" title="827">pressed</glossary> juice <glossary title="441">ferments</glossary> in an <glossary term="Open Vat" title="1218">open concrete vat</glossary> with less than 24 hours of <glossary title="610">skin contact</glossary> and no <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1018">temperature control</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> It then <glossary title="74">ages</glossary> in <glossary title="325">concrete</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1140">tanks</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> <br />
<br />
We also tried the 2012 <glossary title="535">IGT</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="874">Rosso</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> which was delicious and incredibly balanced despite its 15 degrees of alcohol. <br />
<br />
At this point, Dora said she couldn't stand being so dirty anymore, that she had dirt EVERYWHERE (even in her nose!) and that needed to shower immediately. When she was done, she returned in her swanked out, night-on-the-town outfit and we headed to the <glossary title="74">aging</glossary> <glossary title="254">cellar</glossary> to taste more.</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//8a/dd/8addd41dd95d79660f75a45645510869.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//0b/ad/0badb9f776172ef92bab127e6c929b46.jpg" /></p>
<p>Everything was tasting really good, including the homemade <em>"slayed and made"</em> wild boar sausages served up to accompany the wines. One distinction Dora made sure to accentuate was that the wines are made with <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="832">Prugnolo Gentile</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="229">Canaiolo Nero</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary title="625">Mammolo</glossary> and local <glossary title="1169">strains</glossary> of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="911">Sangiovese</glossary><span>.</span></span></span><br />
<br />
<em>"There are over 100 types of </em><glossary title="911"><em>Sangiovese</em></glossary><em> mutations in Italy. They are territorial. The consumer wants a simple explanation, but when they want to talk about </em><glossary title="911"><em>Sangiovese</em></glossary><em>, I ask them "which one?"</em><br />
<br />
This got us talking about tradition and how it continuously keeps getting flushed down bureaucracy's toilet. You can now release a <glossary term="Vino Nobile di Montepulciano" title="1353">Vino Nobile</glossary> as long as it's spent one year in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="142">barrel</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> six months in ANY container <span class="zalup"><span>(<glossary title="1126">wood</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="325">concrete</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="986">stainless</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="445">fiberglass</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> whatever) and six months in bottle. So by following the "old" law, Sanguineto releases their <glossary term="Vino Nobile di Montepulciano" title="1353">Nobile</glossary> a year late. Ironically, the <glossary title="874">Rosso</glossary> they've always intentionally <glossary title="383">declassified</glossary> could technically be labelled a <glossary term="Vino Nobile di Montepulciano" title="1353">Nobile</glossary> now. <br />
<br />
<em>"Here we have centuries of tradition, and with a few new laws, everything is up in smoke."</em><br />
<br />
Another law that recently passed? 30% of ANY grape can be used <em>"in reason"</em> to produce a <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vino Nobile di Montepulciano" title="1353">Vino Nobile</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> <br />
<br />
<em>"This was a direct result of the </em><glossary title="201"><em>Brunello</em></glossary><em> scandal. Instead of getting busted for putting something you weren't allowed to put into the wine, just change the law!" </em><br />
<br />
We love you Dora! <br />
<br />
The visit ended with a quick giro to the 0.7 <glossary title="523">h</glossary> <glossary title="760">parcel</glossary> that produces the<font color="#7b143e"><strong> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Toscana IGT" title="1354">IGT Rosso Toscano</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></strong></font></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//34/3b/343bd6fda178cfefc4ae7ea1d2c6511b.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//80/0f/800fb856a678a4c80b72eba421c0e819.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//d9/7b/d97baad41a27c50ed530021ac193450b.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//f3/2c/f32c68114ca65bb17147e0874bed9e74.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//be/51/be5103a07f748ce8386311f4b0bf969a.jpg" /></p>
<p>Dora rents this <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="760">parcel</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> The grape grown here is the Nero Toscano <glossary title="1169">strain</glossary> of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="911">Sangiovese</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> This is the only wine Dora <glossary title="185">bottles</glossary> as a <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="958">mono-varietal</glossary><span>.</span></span></span><br />
<br />
Dinner was great, blah blah blah...</p>
producer visit21.08.2019
Poderi Sanguineto 1&2 Visit (2011)
This visit to Poderi Sanguineto 1&2 took place in November, 2011
<p><strong><em>This visit to Poderi Sanguineto 1&2 took place in November, 2011.</em></strong></p>
<p><strong><em>Words by Jules Dressner, photos by Alex Finberg.</em></strong></p>
<p>Dora Forsoni runs the Sanguineto <glossary title="427">estate</glossary> with her life and business partner Patrizia Castiglioni. Dora does all the <glossary title="1103">viticultural</glossary> work alone, taking care of 100% of the vine maintenance: she works the soil, <glossary title="834">prunes</glossary> and ties every vine of her 3.5 <glossary title="523">hectare</glossary> <glossary title="427">estate</glossary> by herself, and the only time someone else ever steps foot in the vines is during <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> when a small team of friends helps out. <br />
<br />
As you could imagine, Dora is one tough cookie.<br />
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="360" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/qoTL5_lNSDo" width="640"></iframe><br />
<br />
For starters she is a renown hunter: the season just started and she's already nabbed four 70 kilo deer. In her own words: <br />
<br />
"<em>4 deer, 4 bullets. I shot each one straight in the heart! Only males, because they make the best trophies.</em>" </p>
<p>Dora showed us the heads (trophies), which she simply explained make better mantle pieces because of the antlers. Obviously she eats every last bit of each animal, and butchers them herself. <br />
<br />
She's been working the family farm her entire life, and learned everything she knows about <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="78">agriculture</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary title="1103">viticulture</glossary> and <glossary title="1104">vinification</glossary> from her father; her work in the vineyards therefore leans less on philosophy and more on tradition; a tradition that results in much purer, honest wine than 99% of her neighbors. <br />
<br />
She can't weigh more than 110 pounds.<br />
<br />
When we arrived, we were warmly greeted by Ali, the dog pictured above. His specialty is catching rabbits, and they can't let him loose on the farm, otherwise the free roaming chickens and geese would be in for it. <br />
<br />
Dora let us in and told us she was glad we were here. In the kitchen she was roasting freshly picked chestnuts and preparing a wild board stew (from meat she'd hunted a few days earlier) with polenta. <br />
<br />
I've always had a thing for wild boar because of the french comic strip Astérix, where the Gauls are constantly seen eating <em>sanglier</em>.</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_21//ec/30/ec3045131af970847d2357026dc11dea.jpg" /><br />
<br />
It was one of the best dishes I've ever had. Josefa had thirds. <br />
<br />
Right after we got in, someone called Dora on her cellphone and she said she couldn't talk because she was with her importer Kevin. The person didn't seem to understand, because unlike France where Kevin (pronounced Keveen) and Steve (pronounced Steeeeve) have become popular names in the last decade, a name like Kevin sounds unfamiliar to the Italian ear. Dora explained:<br />
<br />
"<em>Kevin! Kevin! Like Kevin Costner! Haven't you seen Balla coi Lupi</em>?" </p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_21//40/59/4059a9b06f9e55fc620086721d7b6bb6.jpg" /><br />
<br />
This caught on at dinner, and for the rest of the meal, Mr. McKenna was referred to as: <br />
<br />
"<em>Kevin Costner: Balla coi Lupi</em>".<br />
<br />
Besides the food and hilarious 90's movies references, Dora keyed us in on some interesting aspects of her work and that of her neighbors. First of all, I've never met a grower who so passionately expresses how much they love their wine. <br />
<br />
With every bottle opened, Dora exclaimed how "<em>fantasic</em>" and "<em>beautiful</em>" and "<em>delicious</em>" it was without a shred of pomp or attitude. In the context of our meal, it was hard to disagree.<br />
<br />
I really think my father was on to something when he wrote that to truly understand a wine, you need to understand the person who made its personality. <br />
<br />
Dora is as much part of her <glossary title="1026">terroir</glossary> as the <glossary title="1139">indigenous</glossary> grapes that grow from her <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="909">sandy</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary title="301">clay</glossary> soils: she emanates a sense of place and local tradition, and you can taste her passion in each bottle. <br />
<br />
A poignant example would be her choice to <glossary title="1104">vinify</glossary> and <glossary title="185">bottle</glossary> a "Toscana Bianco<strong>"</strong>. At dinner, she explained that traditionally <glossary title="1353">Nobile</glossary> would be <glossary title="1146">blended</glossary> with up to 10% white grapes to lighten the color and alcohol. But she loves her grapes so much (both the whites and the reds), that she refuses to <glossary title="168">blend</glossary> them so that they can better express themselves on their own. She pointed to her glass of white and said:<br />
<br />
"<em>This is MY </em><glossary title="1353"><em>Nobile</em></glossary><em>!</em>"<br />
<br />
The final noteworthy comment was about this year's <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="521">harvest</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Most of Italy had a very hot 2011<strong> <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary></strong>, and <glossary title="681">Montelpulciano</glossary> was no exception. Dora had to start her <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> early in late August. By the time she was halfway done, her neighbors were just starting.<br />
<br />
"<em>I </em><glossary title="521"><em>harvested</em></glossary><em> at optimal </em><glossary title="639"><em>maturity</em></glossary><em> and my </em><glossary title="1381"><em>alcoholic potential</em></glossary><em> this year got close to 15%! Either my neighbors will be </em><glossary title="168"><em>blending</em></glossary><em> their juice with a lot of water or they won't be making any wine this </em><glossary title="1109"><em>vintage</em></glossary><em>.</em>"<br />
<br />
Bets are in for what's most likely to happen...<br />
<br />
In the morning, we checked out the vines. </p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_21//c5/98/c598b01e6f4a35c0c608c37c620b96ca.jpg" /><br />
<br />
Most of the vines on the <glossary title="427">estate</glossary> were planted in 1963 by Dora's father.<br />
<br />
"<em>He taught me that you make good wine by working well in the vineyard. To work in harmony with the vines, to listen to them to take care of them. To make a good broth, you need a good chicken!</em>"<br />
<br />
The vines are all <glossary title="941">selection massale</glossary> and <glossary title="464">franc de pied</glossary> due to a technique that Dora learned from her father where she allows a shoot to come off from the base of the vine, which eventually caps off the old stump and lets the new shoot take over as the producing vine (<glossary title="629">marcottage</glossary>).</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_21//8d/09/8d09cb20aed8ae092e21f99be7a60001.jpg" /><br />
<br />
Her next door neighbors have just torn out their vines for the third time since Dora's were planted in order to make way for another generation of uber-productive <glossary title="304">clones</glossary> pumped full of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="442">fertilizer</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> <br />
<br />
The ground is worked twice a year, and Dora lumps soil around the bottom of each vine during the winter (buttage) to better resist the cold. She undoes this (debuttage) in the spring.<br />
<br />
After our tour of the vines it was <glossary title="254">cellar</glossary> time.</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_21//ba/2a/ba2ac7f2851b932482ef1a033c186f74.jpg" /></p>
<p>As far as <glossary title="1104">vinification</glossary> goes: <glossary title="610">maceration</glossary> on the skins and <glossary title="87">alcoholic</glossary> and <glossary title="622">malolactic fermentation</glossary> occur in large <glossary title="325">concrete</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1140">tanks</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> You could hear the 2011's still <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="441">fermenting</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Dora exclaimed: "They are singing to me and to each other!" The song went something like this: <br />
<br />
"Bloop. Bloop. Bloop Bloop. Bloop." <br />
<br />
The wine is then <glossary title="843">racked</glossary> to large <glossary title="731">oak</glossary> <glossary title="1140">vats</glossary> (30<glossary title="524">hl</glossary>) and <glossary title="74">aged</glossary> for a minimum of two years before being <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="185">bottled</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Dora's father <glossary title="185">bottled</glossary> his wine independently and his last <glossary title="1109">vintage</glossary> was in 1978 (Dora says they are still delicious to this day). For reasons unclear, Dora sold her grapes to the <glossary title="252">cooperative</glossary> until 1997, when she <glossary title="185">bottled</glossary> her first independant <glossary title="1109">vintage</glossary> herself. <br />
<br />
The red wine is always a <glossary title="168">blend</glossary> of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="229">Canaiolo</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary title="832">Prugnolo Gentile</glossary> (a type of <glossary title="911">Sangiovese</glossary> characterized by big, juicy berries) and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="625">Mammolo</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> The <glossary title="168">blend</glossary> varies each year but is the same for each <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="363">cuvée</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> which are bottled according to years <glossary title="74">aged</glossary> in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1126">wood</glossary><span>.</span></span></span><br />
<br />
One exception is the <glossary title="535">I.G.T</glossary> <glossary title="874">Rosso</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1055">Toscano</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> This wine is made with a <glossary title="1169">strain</glossary> of 40 year old <glossary title="911">Sangiovese</glossary> called Nero Toscano. It spends six months on average for <glossary title="87">alcoholic</glossary> and <glossary title="622">malolactic fermentation</glossary> in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="325">concrete</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> and is then <glossary title="74">aged</glossary> two years in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="731">oak</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> <br />
<br />
We tasted a few 2010's, but more importantly the 2009's which are about to be <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="185">bottled</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Though the fruit is young and the <glossary title="1010">tannins</glossary> are strong, there is already a great balance on the <glossary title="756">palate</glossary> with pronounced <glossary title="662">minerality</glossary> and sharp <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="71">acidity</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> It's definitely drinkable now, but should start showing its' full potential in five years.</p>
<p><em><strong>October 24th, 2021.</strong></em></p>
<p>Finally yesterday we finished the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Racking/Soutirage" title="843">racking</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> We are tired but happy. Truly a great wine.</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//897/a6/6d/a66d418934244a8dbbdd58f981974c22.jpg" /><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//897/0f/ef/0fef8561b4f4eadfd8f5cd5fed502898.jpg" /></p>
<p>Poderi Sanguineto 1 & 2 is the family <glossary title="427">estate</glossary> of Dora Forsoni in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="681">Montepulciano</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> the legendary hill town of southern <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1055">Tuscany</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Dora and her partner Patrizia Castiglioni continue to do all the work on the farm where Dora's father taught her from generations of knowledge how to tend the <glossary title="740">old vines</glossary> of true <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="832">Prugnolo Gentile</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="625">Mammolo</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="229">Canaiolo</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> Nero Toscano and <glossary title="911">Sangiovese</glossary> and how to make the wine as it has been made for generations.</p>
<p>Dora has been working on the farm since 1968. Vines have always represented a small part of the 35 <glossary title="523">hectare</glossary> property (4.7 <glossary title="523">hectares</glossary><strong> </strong>as of 2013). Up until 1997, the wine had always been sold indiscriminately in bulk. In 1996, while cleaning up some of her father's old belongings, Dora found one of the very few unmarked bottles he had kept for himself. While the <glossary title="1109">vintage</glossary> was unknown, it was most probably from the late 1970's. More importantly, the wine was so good that it inspired Dora to start <glossary title="185">bottling</glossary> independently.</p>
<p>Dora is a true force of nature. Now well into her 70's, she still farms 100% of the vineyards alone, only allowing outsiders during <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> time to pick grapes. She is an avid hunter who "hates wasting bullets" and butchers all her kills. And despite her rugged exterior, she's one of the funniest, warmest, friendliest, brutally honest and passionate people we've ever met. And to top it off, she has excellent fashion sense; her sister works for a high end Milanese fashion line and gets Dora exclusive, tailored pieces that that make her look like a rock star. Truth be told, she actually is one.<br />
<br />
There are no <glossary title="526">herbicides</glossary> or <glossary title="1142">pesticides</glossary> used here. The <glossary title="441">fermentations</glossary> are done using <glossary title="538">indigenous yeasts</glossary> in either <glossary title="325">concrete</glossary> <glossary title="1140">vats</glossary> or old <glossary title="184">botti</glossary> of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="962">slavonian oak</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> The results are an exciting revelation of focused, clear <glossary title="1026">terroir</glossary> wines from a region most people associate with a forest of spoof.</p>
<p><strong><em>This visit to Poderi Sanguineto 1&2 took place in April, 2013.</em></strong></p>
<p><strong><em>Words by Jules Dressner, photos by Maya Pedersen.</em></strong></p>
<p>Dora Forsoni is probably the coolest person I know. Even with the language barrier, she manages to be one of the funniest, warmest, friendliest, brutally honest and passionate people I've ever met. Spending time with her at the Sanguineto farm has been a true inspiration on both of my visits. In LDM's portfolio of characters, Dora is up there at the very top.<br />
<br />
We arrived in the late afternoon, and were greeted by Patricia. She quickly filled us in on all the juicy animal gossip, namely that one of the geese is in love with one of the hens and its chicks. </p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//b7/6c/b76cc8c8cb52d095a5f7d6db1c8c8a48.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//61/2e/612e12ad0f185481819d83abde18e44f.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//7a/20/7a2054072d22e75d3b1175851eb69ebf.jpg" /></p>
<p>It follows them around at all times, protecting them from danger.</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//0b/32/0b32e0173d43b09172f538093244d152.jpg" /></p>
<p>Dora was busy <glossary title="810">plowing</glossary> a new, two<font color="#7b143e"><strong> <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectare</glossary></strong></font> <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcel</glossary> she planted this year, so we walked over to say hello. After dramatically pulling up in front of us and jumping out of her tractor, the visit officially started. </p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//85/70/8570a039e1eba03e677134f72956a8d1.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//4e/1d/4e1de47641c753973f2607693de8dc3a.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//ea/1d/ea1dd42b141aba3320e28e8506ca013b.jpg" /></p>
<p>A <font color="#7b143e"><strong><glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectare</glossary></strong></font> of this new <glossary title="1133">plot</glossary> will be used to produce <glossary title="535">IGT</glossary> Rosso, and the rest will go into <glossary term="Vino Nobile di Montepulciano" title="1353">Vino Nobile</glossary> and the <font color="#7b143e"><strong><glossary term="Bianco" title="158">Bianco</glossary></strong></font>. In Sanguineto's case, the <glossary title="874">Rosso</glossary> and <glossary term="Vino Nobile di Montepulciano" title="1353">Vino Nobile</glossary> grapes have always come from the same vineyards, but a newer law forces <glossary title="427">estates</glossary> to claim which grapes will go into what for all new plantations. In total, the farm is 35 <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> with 4.7 of those in vines. Everything is and always has been in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="941">massale</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p>The new plantation is next to a large portion of the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="740">old vines</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> which we checked out next. </p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//78/60/7860cbe264ef71d8ae77149317368e3b.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//00/b9/00b9050260caef252cc453a2e4be0a22.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//e1/13/e1138dec34cd503e63d81ebef2f60b66.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//24/03/2403f75bb97b1091b1c08d3831cf786e.jpg" /></p>
<p>As you can see, the rows have all been freshly <glossary title="810">plowed</glossary> with a tractor. Dora does this twice a year. <glossary title="279">Chemicals</glossary> have never been used in the vines, and Dora is very much against any manipulation of the plant, particularly <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="866">rognage</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> the process of cutting off the tops to create more sunlight and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="73">aeration</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> or alternatively to make more room for tractors and not having to tie them back up as they grow. <br />
<br />
<em>"Wineries that cut the top of the plant are doing the equivalent of cutting a human's veins. The plant stops concentrating on producing the fruit, because it needs to divert its attention to healing its wounds."</em> <br />
<br />
In a curveball twist none of us expected, Dora started breaking off vine stems for us to taste! </p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//08/ce/08ce8b6c311138b330d5e88541710c87.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//c6/a4/c6a4b3f74fbe747e96a248796055afc6.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//b9/1d/b91d7e7c3eec4ce92a3d439152ee6810.jpg" /></p>
<p>The idea was to make us understand why <glossary title="235">Caprioli</glossary> (<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-_f5XcwSHBw" target="_blank">little dear animals, no word in English</a>) -a big problem in many <glossary title="1103">viticultural</glossary> regions- love eating these so much. It was a mix of bitter and sweet, reminding me of lemongrass. <br />
<br />
After finishing up our snack, it was olive tree time. </p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//a8/ba/a8baf2ebf6ed9ae6c38d349d1fe60c30.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//71/59/71592577b32fabbf045f057631410bee.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//d4/af/d4af87f95817b70169298e85cb8fb7de.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//ca/c2/cac261814bc60ed6ee218ae6fe47e6cd.jpg" /></p>
<p>From there, we were off to the wheat fields, which take up a significant portion of land. </p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//e2/4a/e24abc4c1c64e8ce174967aba474c9ff.jpg" /></p>
<p>Unsatisfied with our previous snack, Dora started peeling off an un-blossomed wheat plant for us to taste. </p>
<p><br />
<img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//e6/a8/e6a832e928922d4cfee1eaabf399d848.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//37/cb/37cba823137fdf516e4890943d0dab0a.jpg" /></p>
<p>She seemed pretty happy with the results. <br />
<img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//9d/4f/9d4f840ea796433f0f69159d81862f52.jpg" /></p>
<p>Walking back, Dora started complaining about how the tractor work had gotten dirt all over her. After taking off her sweater to reveal a tank-top any thrift store aficionado would die for, she let her hair down and looked like a member of the best heavy metal band you've ever heard. </p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//d9/89/d98997ab3d713435b50cc2f0dda5e3c6.jpg" /><br />
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="360" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/WhRCVm-1r2k" width="640"></iframe><br />
<br />
Seek out this 1986 masterpiece if you can. Totally worth it. <br />
<br />
Here are some pictures of Casa Dora, aka "Dora's house".</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//19/97/199799bf992c4ecc178276d657503e55.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//f7/a7/f7a77a181fb8b484b5a76386428a4959.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//7e/6a/7e6a75972c8473b544781e7c86255677.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//fe/38/fe38eaf389b8e80ebd3a92308474168b.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//57/0e/570e4fe3b02eafa620ae10fefb6d7ed2.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//bb/7a/bb7a7fd3b4ef61b102b58683401cf978.jpg" /></p>
<p>In the <glossary title="1104">vinification</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="254">cellar</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> we got to taste the 2012 <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="158">Bianco</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> a wine Dora considers:<br />
<br />
<em>"The life of the </em><glossary title="329"><em>contadina</em></glossary><em>!"</em></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//8d/c8/8dc866b867983102f31678e50f1f1687.jpg" /></p>
<p>I've always loved this wine, and it's particularly fruity and generous in 2012. The <glossary term="Pressing" title="827">pressed</glossary> juice <glossary title="441">ferments</glossary> in an <glossary term="Open Vat" title="1218">open concrete vat</glossary> with less than 24 hours of <glossary title="610">skin contact</glossary> and no <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1018">temperature control</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> It then <glossary title="74">ages</glossary> in <glossary title="325">concrete</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1140">tanks</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> <br />
<br />
We also tried the 2012 <glossary title="535">IGT</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="874">Rosso</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> which was delicious and incredibly balanced despite its 15 degrees of alcohol. <br />
<br />
At this point, Dora said she couldn't stand being so dirty anymore, that she had dirt EVERYWHERE (even in her nose!) and that needed to shower immediately. When she was done, she returned in her swanked out, night-on-the-town outfit and we headed to the <glossary title="74">aging</glossary> <glossary title="254">cellar</glossary> to taste more.</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//8a/dd/8addd41dd95d79660f75a45645510869.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//0b/ad/0badb9f776172ef92bab127e6c929b46.jpg" /></p>
<p>Everything was tasting really good, including the homemade <em>"slayed and made"</em> wild boar sausages served up to accompany the wines. One distinction Dora made sure to accentuate was that the wines are made with <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="832">Prugnolo Gentile</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="229">Canaiolo Nero</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary title="625">Mammolo</glossary> and local <glossary title="1169">strains</glossary> of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="911">Sangiovese</glossary><span>.</span></span></span><br />
<br />
<em>"There are over 100 types of </em><glossary title="911"><em>Sangiovese</em></glossary><em> mutations in Italy. They are territorial. The consumer wants a simple explanation, but when they want to talk about </em><glossary title="911"><em>Sangiovese</em></glossary><em>, I ask them "which one?"</em><br />
<br />
This got us talking about tradition and how it continuously keeps getting flushed down bureaucracy's toilet. You can now release a <glossary term="Vino Nobile di Montepulciano" title="1353">Vino Nobile</glossary> as long as it's spent one year in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="142">barrel</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> six months in ANY container <span class="zalup"><span>(<glossary title="1126">wood</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="325">concrete</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="986">stainless</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="445">fiberglass</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> whatever) and six months in bottle. So by following the "old" law, Sanguineto releases their <glossary term="Vino Nobile di Montepulciano" title="1353">Nobile</glossary> a year late. Ironically, the <glossary title="874">Rosso</glossary> they've always intentionally <glossary title="383">declassified</glossary> could technically be labelled a <glossary term="Vino Nobile di Montepulciano" title="1353">Nobile</glossary> now. <br />
<br />
<em>"Here we have centuries of tradition, and with a few new laws, everything is up in smoke."</em><br />
<br />
Another law that recently passed? 30% of ANY grape can be used <em>"in reason"</em> to produce a <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vino Nobile di Montepulciano" title="1353">Vino Nobile</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> <br />
<br />
<em>"This was a direct result of the </em><glossary title="201"><em>Brunello</em></glossary><em> scandal. Instead of getting busted for putting something you weren't allowed to put into the wine, just change the law!" </em><br />
<br />
We love you Dora! <br />
<br />
The visit ended with a quick giro to the 0.7 <glossary title="523">h</glossary> <glossary title="760">parcel</glossary> that produces the<font color="#7b143e"><strong> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Toscana IGT" title="1354">IGT Rosso Toscano</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></strong></font></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//34/3b/343bd6fda178cfefc4ae7ea1d2c6511b.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//80/0f/800fb856a678a4c80b72eba421c0e819.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//d9/7b/d97baad41a27c50ed530021ac193450b.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//f3/2c/f32c68114ca65bb17147e0874bed9e74.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_14//be/51/be5103a07f748ce8386311f4b0bf969a.jpg" /></p>
<p>Dora rents this <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="760">parcel</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> The grape grown here is the Nero Toscano <glossary title="1169">strain</glossary> of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="911">Sangiovese</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> This is the only wine Dora <glossary title="185">bottles</glossary> as a <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="958">mono-varietal</glossary><span>.</span></span></span><br />
<br />
Dinner was great, blah blah blah...</p>
Article
producer visit21.08.2019
This visit to Poderi Sanguineto 1&2 took place in November, 2011
<p><strong><em>This visit to Poderi Sanguineto 1&2 took place in November, 2011.</em></strong></p>
<p><strong><em>Words by Jules Dressner, photos by Alex Finberg.</em></strong></p>
<p>Dora Forsoni runs the Sanguineto <glossary title="427">estate</glossary> with her life and business partner Patrizia Castiglioni. Dora does all the <glossary title="1103">viticultural</glossary> work alone, taking care of 100% of the vine maintenance: she works the soil, <glossary title="834">prunes</glossary> and ties every vine of her 3.5 <glossary title="523">hectare</glossary> <glossary title="427">estate</glossary> by herself, and the only time someone else ever steps foot in the vines is during <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> when a small team of friends helps out. <br />
<br />
As you could imagine, Dora is one tough cookie.<br />
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="360" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/qoTL5_lNSDo" width="640"></iframe><br />
<br />
For starters she is a renown hunter: the season just started and she's already nabbed four 70 kilo deer. In her own words: <br />
<br />
"<em>4 deer, 4 bullets. I shot each one straight in the heart! Only males, because they make the best trophies.</em>" </p>
<p>Dora showed us the heads (trophies), which she simply explained make better mantle pieces because of the antlers. Obviously she eats every last bit of each animal, and butchers them herself. <br />
<br />
She's been working the family farm her entire life, and learned everything she knows about <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="78">agriculture</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary title="1103">viticulture</glossary> and <glossary title="1104">vinification</glossary> from her father; her work in the vineyards therefore leans less on philosophy and more on tradition; a tradition that results in much purer, honest wine than 99% of her neighbors. <br />
<br />
She can't weigh more than 110 pounds.<br />
<br />
When we arrived, we were warmly greeted by Ali, the dog pictured above. His specialty is catching rabbits, and they can't let him loose on the farm, otherwise the free roaming chickens and geese would be in for it. <br />
<br />
Dora let us in and told us she was glad we were here. In the kitchen she was roasting freshly picked chestnuts and preparing a wild board stew (from meat she'd hunted a few days earlier) with polenta. <br />
<br />
I've always had a thing for wild boar because of the french comic strip Astérix, where the Gauls are constantly seen eating <em>sanglier</em>.</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_21//ec/30/ec3045131af970847d2357026dc11dea.jpg" /><br />
<br />
It was one of the best dishes I've ever had. Josefa had thirds. <br />
<br />
Right after we got in, someone called Dora on her cellphone and she said she couldn't talk because she was with her importer Kevin. The person didn't seem to understand, because unlike France where Kevin (pronounced Keveen) and Steve (pronounced Steeeeve) have become popular names in the last decade, a name like Kevin sounds unfamiliar to the Italian ear. Dora explained:<br />
<br />
"<em>Kevin! Kevin! Like Kevin Costner! Haven't you seen Balla coi Lupi</em>?" </p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_21//40/59/4059a9b06f9e55fc620086721d7b6bb6.jpg" /><br />
<br />
This caught on at dinner, and for the rest of the meal, Mr. McKenna was referred to as: <br />
<br />
"<em>Kevin Costner: Balla coi Lupi</em>".<br />
<br />
Besides the food and hilarious 90's movies references, Dora keyed us in on some interesting aspects of her work and that of her neighbors. First of all, I've never met a grower who so passionately expresses how much they love their wine. <br />
<br />
With every bottle opened, Dora exclaimed how "<em>fantasic</em>" and "<em>beautiful</em>" and "<em>delicious</em>" it was without a shred of pomp or attitude. In the context of our meal, it was hard to disagree.<br />
<br />
I really think my father was on to something when he wrote that to truly understand a wine, you need to understand the person who made its personality. <br />
<br />
Dora is as much part of her <glossary title="1026">terroir</glossary> as the <glossary title="1139">indigenous</glossary> grapes that grow from her <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="909">sandy</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary title="301">clay</glossary> soils: she emanates a sense of place and local tradition, and you can taste her passion in each bottle. <br />
<br />
A poignant example would be her choice to <glossary title="1104">vinify</glossary> and <glossary title="185">bottle</glossary> a "Toscana Bianco<strong>"</strong>. At dinner, she explained that traditionally <glossary title="1353">Nobile</glossary> would be <glossary title="1146">blended</glossary> with up to 10% white grapes to lighten the color and alcohol. But she loves her grapes so much (both the whites and the reds), that she refuses to <glossary title="168">blend</glossary> them so that they can better express themselves on their own. She pointed to her glass of white and said:<br />
<br />
"<em>This is MY </em><glossary title="1353"><em>Nobile</em></glossary><em>!</em>"<br />
<br />
The final noteworthy comment was about this year's <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="521">harvest</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Most of Italy had a very hot 2011<strong> <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary></strong>, and <glossary title="681">Montelpulciano</glossary> was no exception. Dora had to start her <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> early in late August. By the time she was halfway done, her neighbors were just starting.<br />
<br />
"<em>I </em><glossary title="521"><em>harvested</em></glossary><em> at optimal </em><glossary title="639"><em>maturity</em></glossary><em> and my </em><glossary title="1381"><em>alcoholic potential</em></glossary><em> this year got close to 15%! Either my neighbors will be </em><glossary title="168"><em>blending</em></glossary><em> their juice with a lot of water or they won't be making any wine this </em><glossary title="1109"><em>vintage</em></glossary><em>.</em>"<br />
<br />
Bets are in for what's most likely to happen...<br />
<br />
In the morning, we checked out the vines. </p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_21//c5/98/c598b01e6f4a35c0c608c37c620b96ca.jpg" /><br />
<br />
Most of the vines on the <glossary title="427">estate</glossary> were planted in 1963 by Dora's father.<br />
<br />
"<em>He taught me that you make good wine by working well in the vineyard. To work in harmony with the vines, to listen to them to take care of them. To make a good broth, you need a good chicken!</em>"<br />
<br />
The vines are all <glossary title="941">selection massale</glossary> and <glossary title="464">franc de pied</glossary> due to a technique that Dora learned from her father where she allows a shoot to come off from the base of the vine, which eventually caps off the old stump and lets the new shoot take over as the producing vine (<glossary title="629">marcottage</glossary>).</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_21//8d/09/8d09cb20aed8ae092e21f99be7a60001.jpg" /><br />
<br />
Her next door neighbors have just torn out their vines for the third time since Dora's were planted in order to make way for another generation of uber-productive <glossary title="304">clones</glossary> pumped full of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="442">fertilizer</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> <br />
<br />
The ground is worked twice a year, and Dora lumps soil around the bottom of each vine during the winter (buttage) to better resist the cold. She undoes this (debuttage) in the spring.<br />
<br />
After our tour of the vines it was <glossary title="254">cellar</glossary> time.</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_21//ba/2a/ba2ac7f2851b932482ef1a033c186f74.jpg" /></p>
<p>As far as <glossary title="1104">vinification</glossary> goes: <glossary title="610">maceration</glossary> on the skins and <glossary title="87">alcoholic</glossary> and <glossary title="622">malolactic fermentation</glossary> occur in large <glossary title="325">concrete</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1140">tanks</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> You could hear the 2011's still <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="441">fermenting</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Dora exclaimed: "They are singing to me and to each other!" The song went something like this: <br />
<br />
"Bloop. Bloop. Bloop Bloop. Bloop." <br />
<br />
The wine is then <glossary title="843">racked</glossary> to large <glossary title="731">oak</glossary> <glossary title="1140">vats</glossary> (30<glossary title="524">hl</glossary>) and <glossary title="74">aged</glossary> for a minimum of two years before being <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="185">bottled</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Dora's father <glossary title="185">bottled</glossary> his wine independently and his last <glossary title="1109">vintage</glossary> was in 1978 (Dora says they are still delicious to this day). For reasons unclear, Dora sold her grapes to the <glossary title="252">cooperative</glossary> until 1997, when she <glossary title="185">bottled</glossary> her first independant <glossary title="1109">vintage</glossary> herself. <br />
<br />
The red wine is always a <glossary title="168">blend</glossary> of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="229">Canaiolo</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary title="832">Prugnolo Gentile</glossary> (a type of <glossary title="911">Sangiovese</glossary> characterized by big, juicy berries) and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="625">Mammolo</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> The <glossary title="168">blend</glossary> varies each year but is the same for each <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="363">cuvée</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> which are bottled according to years <glossary title="74">aged</glossary> in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1126">wood</glossary><span>.</span></span></span><br />
<br />
One exception is the <glossary title="535">I.G.T</glossary> <glossary title="874">Rosso</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1055">Toscano</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> This wine is made with a <glossary title="1169">strain</glossary> of 40 year old <glossary title="911">Sangiovese</glossary> called Nero Toscano. It spends six months on average for <glossary title="87">alcoholic</glossary> and <glossary title="622">malolactic fermentation</glossary> in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="325">concrete</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> and is then <glossary title="74">aged</glossary> two years in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="731">oak</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> <br />
<br />
We tasted a few 2010's, but more importantly the 2009's which are about to be <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="185">bottled</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Though the fruit is young and the <glossary title="1010">tannins</glossary> are strong, there is already a great balance on the <glossary title="756">palate</glossary> with pronounced <glossary title="662">minerality</glossary> and sharp <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="71">acidity</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> It's definitely drinkable now, but should start showing its' full potential in five years.</p>
<p><em><strong>October 24th, 2021.</strong></em></p>
<p>Finally yesterday we finished the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Racking/Soutirage" title="843">racking</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> We are tired but happy. Truly a great wine.</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//897/a6/6d/a66d418934244a8dbbdd58f981974c22.jpg" /><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//897/0f/ef/0fef8561b4f4eadfd8f5cd5fed502898.jpg" /></p>