If you have dinner at Hervé's cellar, there is a strong chance he will serve you marc (eau de vie) directly from demi-john. And then start a dance party.
If you have dinner at Hervé's cellar, there is a strong chance he will serve you marc (eau de vie) directly from demi-john. And then start a dance party.
If you have dinner at Hervé's cellar, there is a strong chance he will serve you marc (eau de vie) directly from demi-john. And then start a dance party.
<p>Hervé Villemade has been working his family's vines in <glossary title="257">Cellettes</glossary> since taking over from his father in 1995. Today, the <glossary title="427">estate</glossary> represents about 22 <glossary title="523">hectares</glossary> of <glossary title="746">organically</glossary> farmed fruit within the <glossary title="283">Cheverny</glossary> and <glossary title="352">Cour-Cheverny</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="108">AOCs</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> along with a <glossary title="729">négociant</glossary> license to supplement production with local grapes.</p>
<p>When Hervé first took over, everything was farmed <glossary title="279">chemically</glossary> and <glossary title="1104">vinified</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="331">conventionally</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Unaware of an alternative, he followed in his parents' footsteps but quickly found his work "uninspired and bland." Around 1997, Hervé was introduced to the wines of Marcel Lapierre and <a href="http://louisdressner.com/producers/Tue_Boeuf/">Clos du Tue-Boeuf</a>. Both immediately struck a chord with him.</p>
<p>Coincidentally, at the exact same time that he was discovering these wines, Hervé started developing a very serious allergy to <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="993">sulfur</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> He decided to eliminate it from the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="254">cellar</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> but his first <glossary title="913">sans souffre</glossary> <glossary title="1104">vinifications</glossary> quickly led to the conclusion that to make wine this way, you needed the hightest quality grapes. So in 2000, Hervé decided to convert the <glossary title="427">estate</glossary> to <glossary title="746">organic</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1103">viticulture</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> <br />
<br />
The majority of the production consists of <glossary title="163">Cheverny Blanc</glossary> and <strong><glossary title="283">Cheverny Rouge</glossary></strong>, all farmed from the historic family <glossary title="760">parcels</glossary> in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="257">Cellettes</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> A single vineyard <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="283">Cheverny Rouge</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> "Les Ardilles<em>"</em>, is produced in <glossary title="1109">vintages</glossary> that permit, along with "Desiré", a <glossary title="617">magnum </glossary>only <glossary title="185">bottling</glossary> of very old <glossary title="805">Pinot Noir</glossary> planted by his grandfather. In addition, Hervé owns a significant amount of the <glossary title="1139">indigenous</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="867">Romorantin</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> a grape so unique to this part of the <glossary title="602">Loire</glossary> that it receives its own <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="113">appellation</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="352">Cour-Cheverny</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> For the <span class="zalup"><span> <glossary title="867">Romorantins</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary title="363">cuvées</glossary> are <glossary title="185">bottled</glossary> as <span class="zalup"><span> <glossary title="959">single vineyard expressions</glossary><span>:</span></span></span> "Les Châtaigniers" and the <glossary title="740">old vine</glossary> "Les Acacias". <br />
<br />
Hervé's area is particularly vulnerable to spring <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1135">frost</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> a phenomenon that has greatly accelerated in the last 20 years with global warming. Due to mild winters, the vines due not go into as deep a hybernation and beging <glossary title="1166">budding</glossary> weeks earlier than they used to. Spring<strong> <glossary title="1135">frosts</glossary></strong> have always been common, but would occur at a point in the vines' vegetative cycle where little to no harm could be done.</p>
<p>Hervé has lost part of his crop to this phenomenon in most years, including nine <glossary title="1109">vintages</glossary> between 1995 and 2012 where 80% or more of his family land was destroyed. In such, Hervé has had to completetly overhaul and rethink his entreprise. He has invested in costly anti<span class="zalup"><span><span>-</span><glossary title="1135">frost</glossary> </span></span>towers, is <glossary title="834">pruning</glossary> much later and leaving grass to intentionally compete with the vines. It also led him to begin a <glossary title="729">négociant</glossary> business sourcing grapes from local purveyors.</p>
<p><em>This interview with Hervé Villemade took place in <glossary title="178">Bordeaux</glossary> in June 2011. </em></p>
<p><strong>Tell us about your estate.</strong><br />
<br />
Domaine du Moulin (now Domaine Hervé Villemade <strong>(</strong>is a family <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="427">estate</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> My grandparents founded it, and I took over in 1995. At the time there were 8.5 <glossary title="523">hectares</glossary> of rather <glossary title="1130">young vines</glossary> (15-20 years) that my grandparents had planted. The farm used to be in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="815">polyculture</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> and the <glossary title="740">old vines</glossary> from the 1960's had been removed to plant new ones in the 1970's.<br />
<br />
When I took over, I replanted five <glossary title="523">hectares</glossary> and started renting some vines as well. I've also bought land over the years and today we find ourselves working 25 <glossary title="523">hectares</glossary> (eight are mine, 8.5 are my parents' and the rest is rented).<br />
<br />
<strong>A lot has changed in your work ethic since you've taken over in 1995. Can you outline what and how that happened?</strong><br />
<br />
When I first took over the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="427">estate</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> everything was <glossary title="331">farmed conventionally</glossary> with <glossary title="279">chemicals</glossary> in the vineyards. Unaware of the alternatives, I followed in my parents' footsteps and continued working this way. I quickly became very bored with the work and the wines. They were uninspired and bland. <br />
<br />
Around this time I was introduced to wines that were different, that spoke to me, that struck a chord emotionally: <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="708">natural wines</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Coincidentally, at the exact same time that I was discovering these wines I started developing a very serious allergy to <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="993">sulfur</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> <br />
<br />
This was around 1997. My first attempt at <glossary title="993">sulfur</glossary> free winemaking was in 1999. What I hadn't realized, and what I quickly found out (through Marcel Lapierre in particular), was that to make <glossary title="993">sulfur</glossary> free wine, you needed clean grapes. From that point I immediately started <glossary title="332">converting</glossary> the entire <glossary title="427">estate</glossary> to <glossary title="746">organic</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="78">agriculture</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> This was in 2000. <br />
<br />
<strong>Are you certified organic? </strong><br />
<br />
Yes.<br />
<br />
<strong>Do you think certification is important?</strong><br />
<br />
It certainly isn't a prerequisite. Personally I think it helps communicate to the public what we're doing. We've always followed a very simple logic: we do what we say and we say what we do. <br />
<br />
<strong>You mentioned earlier that you were introduced to certain wines that inspired you. Can you remember any of these?</strong><br />
<br />
Of course. The first were Marcel Lapierre's wines. But the wines that really made me start to believe I could make wines in this style were Thierry Puzelat's. Marcel's wines were the spark, but he lived 450 kilometers away from me and was working with very different <glossary title="1026">terroirs</glossary>; having a neighbor pull it off right next door was the inspiration and motivation to follow in his footsteps.<br />
<br />
Jean Foillard and Gramenon were also two early inspirations that truly marked me. <br />
<br />
<strong>Whats the work in the vines like?</strong><br />
<br />
It's very simple and essentially the way everyone was working 50 years ago. We make a conscious effort to upkeep grass, since you need grass but you don't want too much of it competing with the vines either. In doing so we adapt to each <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1109">vintage</glossary><span>:</span></span></span> if it's very dry we'll get rid of all the grass in early spring but if it's humid we'll keep as much of it as possible. <br />
<br />
As far as the vines getting sick, again we adapt to each situation as it comes along. So for example if there's a potential problem with <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1137">mildew</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> we'll <glossary title="328">treat</glossary> it accordingly (strictly with <glossary title="333">copper</glossary>), but not if the vines don't need it. <br />
<br />
In a way, adapting to each <glossary title="1109">vintage</glossary> is at the heart of <glossary title="746">organic</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="78">agriculture</glossary><span>:</span></span></span> there is no secret recipe or miracle product to make everything work out perfectly every year. You just need to always be there, to act accordingly and at the right time.<br />
<br />
<strong>What about in the cellar?</strong><br />
<br />
I have two different <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1026">terroirs</glossary><span>:</span></span></span> <glossary title="909">sandy</glossary> <glossary title="455">flint</glossary> and <glossary title="301">clay</glossary>/ <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="455">flint</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> For the <glossary title="909">sandy</glossary> <glossary title="455">flint</glossary> soils, we <glossary title="1104">vinify</glossary> in <glossary title="325">concrete</glossary> <glossary title="1140">tanks</glossary> for the whites and <glossary title="1218">open vats</glossary> for the reds. We then <glossary title="185">bottle</glossary> the wine the following spring, which is typical of the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="602">Loire</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> <br />
<br />
For the <glossary title="301">clay</glossary>/<glossary title="455">flint</glossary> soils, we <glossary title="1104">vinify</glossary> in 500 or 220 liter <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="142">barrels</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> The wines then <glossary title="74">age</glossary> in <glossary title="142">barrel</glossary> for 12, 15 or 18 months depending on the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1109">vintage</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> I do this because this <glossary title="1026">terroir</glossary> lends itself to higher concentrations of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="662">minerality</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> and the wines need the time to balance themselves out before <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="185">bottling</glossary><span>.</span></span></span><br />
<br />
<strong>How do you feel about the AOC system, and more specifically your appellations of Cheverny and Cour-Cheverny? </strong><br />
<br />
Both <glossary title="113">appellations</glossary> are relatively recent, dating back to 1992. I come from a family of <glossary title="1089">vignerons</glossary> firmly rooted in the area. When I was a child I remember my father going to meetings every week, building the foundation that led to the creation of both <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="113">appellations</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> As with any <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="108">AOC</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> it's a lot of work. You really have to demonstrate and validate the regional history of your <glossary title="1026">terroirs</glossary> and <glossary title="1071">varietals</glossary> in order to be approved.<br />
<br />
In such I am very attached to both the <glossary title="283">Cheverny</glossary> and <glossary title="352">Cour-Cheverny</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="113">appellations</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> and to the <glossary title="108">AOC</glossary> system as a whole. An <glossary title="113">appellation</glossary> really means something as long as you make it mean something. <br />
<br />
For example, a 60<glossary title="524">hl</glossary> by <glossary title="523">hectare</glossary> maximum is wishful thinking: it's to say that if a particularly productive <glossary title="1109">vintage</glossary> were to occur, this would be an estimate of what the vines could maximally produce. Of course with <glossary title="279">chemical</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="78">agriculture</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary title="1089">vignerons</glossary> are going to do their best to make sure they have 60<glossary title="524">hl</glossary> every year. The point I'm trying to make is that this wasn't applied to set a standard of productivity, but rather to gauge the realistic maximal possibilities of the region. <br />
<br />
I've never reached 6<span class="zalup"><span>0<glossary title="524">hl</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> On average we do between 30 and 35. And on years where we get to 4<span class="zalup"><span>5<glossary title="524">hl</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> we don't feel bad about it because it's a direct result of the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1109">vintage</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> and in such respects and represents the <glossary title="1109">vintage</glossary> accurately. <br />
<br />
<strong>You've mentioned natural wines earlier and you are a prominent member of the AVN (Association des Vins Naturels). Where do you stand on the natural wine debate?</strong><br />
<br />
I am not a fan of categorizations: I make wine that I want to make, and that's that. As far as I'm concerned, that means making wine from clean grapes and nothing else. Once that's done, I <glossary title="447">filter</glossary> because the wines need it. I add a little <glossary title="993">sulfur</glossary> at <glossary title="185">bottling</glossary> (and let's not forget that I'm highly allergic!) because the wines need it. If they don't need it, which does occasionally happen, then I don't add any <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="993">sulfur</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> It's as simple as that. I drink wine everyday, and a lot of it is my own, so it's in my best interest that they suit my tastes!<br />
<br />
In the end, the wine speaks for itself. But if you're going to ask me what kind of wine I make, it goes back to what I said earlier about working <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="746">organically</glossary><span>:</span></span></span> we do what we say and say what we do. I think that the <glossary title="1089">vigneron's</glossary> personality and work will reflect immensely in his wines, and you can't hide this from an experienced taster. There is no way to cheat: if you say you did something but it's not true, someone is going to know you're lying and call you out on it. <br />
<br />
I want people to drink the wines and appreciate them based on their personal preferences. Getting caught up in semantics like "I'm natural" or "he's not natural enough" or "he's too extreme" is a waste of everyone's time.<br />
<br />
<strong>On a lighter note, do you have any favorite wines to drink?</strong><br />
<br />
I love <glossary title="805">Pinot Noir</glossary> and <glossary title="508">Grenache</glossary> for red.<br />
<br />
For white, my favorite <glossary title="1071">varietals</glossary> are <glossary title="867">Romorantin</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="922">Savagnin</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> They are almost polar opposites in style, but they share the quality of unmistakable <glossary title="120">aromatics</glossary> you won't taste anywhere else. No one is ever going to confuse <glossary title="867">Romorantin</glossary> with <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="927">Sauvignon Blanc</glossary><span>!</span></span></span> <br />
<br />
All over the world there are ten <glossary title="1071">varietals</glossary> that everyone always talk about, but there used to be thousands in France. Unfortunately there are only a few hundred at this point, and <glossary title="1071">varietals</glossary> like <glossary title="867">Romorantin</glossary> and <glossary title="922">Savagnin</glossary> do an incredible job of linking you to a specific place, something that isn't always the case with the "big ten".</p>
producer visit02.08.2019
Hervé Villemade
This visit with Hervé Villemade took place in June, 2013
<p><strong><em>This visit with Hervé Villemade took place in June, 2013</em></strong></p>
<p><strong><em>Words by Jules Dressner, photos by John Kafarski and Jules Dressner.</em></strong></p>
<p>Recognize the statue in the header picture? </p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_02//56/b7/56b7e0da4aec2cdefbe5918c0978b8fa.jpg" /><br />
<br />
Hmmmmm....<br />
<br />
When pulling in to the Villemade's property, the first thing you spot is their fruit and vegetable garden.</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_02//f8/80/f880f9048f0b2a40fef2ad0a6ac3757a.jpg" /><br />
<br />
The garden feeds the whole family. Hervé and Isabelle's 80 year old father takes care of it all on his own. That and <glossary title="834">pruning</glossary> "his" two <glossary title="523">hectares</glossary> oof vines all by himself every winter.<br />
<br />
<em>"We just let him take as long as he needs. He's in no rush."</em><br />
<br />
And yes, that's a big Homer Simpson doll. Scares the crows. <br />
<br />
The first <glossary title="760">parcel</glossary> we visited was the <glossary title="740">old vine</glossary> <glossary title="805">Pinot Noir</glossary> that goes into "Desiré", a <glossary title="617">magnum</glossary> only <glossary title="363">cuvée</glossary> <glossary title="185">bottled</glossary> exclusively in exceptional <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1109">vintages</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> </p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_02//53/57/5357cf617f04e30f68a9eadeac809190.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_02//03/34/0334a825adfddd82ae97e134b32fd764.jpg" /></p>
<p>Last year, the "Desiré" <glossary title="760">parcel</glossary> produced 2 <glossary title="524">hl</glossary>/ <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="523">h</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> which represents a 90% loss. And though 2012 was particularly brutal, the vines in this area are extremely prone to <span class="zalup"><span> <glossary title="1135">frost</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> which has prompted Hervé to purchase vines in the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1135">frost</glossary><span>-</span></span></span>free nearby village of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="463">Fougères-sur-Bièvre</glossary><span>.</span></span></span><br />
<br />
<em>"In the 19 years I've worked this land, it's frosted badly 9 times. One year out of two: it adds up."</em><br />
<br />
This is what <glossary title="1135">frost</glossary> damage looks like.</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_02//8f/3f/8f3fec3b0a1208f45f012370eb69b70f.jpg" /></p>
<p>Still, Hervé is happy because the bit of sun they've had this summer has sprouted grapes from the damaged <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="206">buds</glossary><span>.</span></span></span><br />
<br />
The soils here are heavy <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="301">clay</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_02//d4/1c/d41cdd19fb9bf740d26ec04a67e7abf8.jpg" /><br />
<br />
Next, we visited some nearby <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="867">Romorantin</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> </p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_02//8b/6d/8b6d4eb51b6654d001fc4643b1b7768a.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_02//b1/0f/b10fd52a508307fc2628c03cd00aeedc.jpg" /></p>
<p>The soils here are <glossary title="909">sand</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="455">flint</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_02//e1/32/e1321fda3b565fe2071ce3bcca3e342b.jpg" /></p>
<p>Fortunately, 2013 hasn't been a bad year for <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1137">mildew</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> the other recurring issue in the area. In efforts to thwart the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="474">fungal illness</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> Hervé has started using a seaweed solution against it. <br />
<br />
It's critical that <glossary title="1137">mildew</glossary> does not propagate right before <glossary title="1179">flowering</glossary> (when we visited), because this is when vines are the most vulnerable: since the sap's flow is so concentrated on the flower, it can hardly protect itself against the spread of illness.<br />
<br />
The other big issue? The dreaded little <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="284">chevreuils</glossary><span>:</span></span></span></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_02//18/90/18904ac3c91a603a57de74dc4593f37a.jpg" /><br />
<br />
<em>"If I could shoot them all, I would!" </em><br />
<br />
Hervé is using a rotten garden solution to keep them away.<br />
<br />
<em>"It works, but you have to re-spray every time it rains." </em><br />
<br />
Still in the same vicinity, Hervé pointed out some recently planted <glossary title="927">Sauvignon</glossary> and <glossary title="867">Romorantin</glossary> that will eventually make it into the <glossary title="283">Cheverny</glossary> <glossary title="163">Blanc</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="352">Cour-Cheverny</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_02//4a/60/4a60bb713e5a0ad54422016a828c4ebe.jpg" /><br />
<br />
In an effort to have the most diverse, heterogeneous plantation possible, Hervé has sourced <glossary title="941">selections massales</glossary> from over 10 friends, including <a href="http://louisdressner.com/producers/Roche/">Clos Roche Blanche</a>, <a href="http://louisdressner.com/producers/Tue_Boeuf/">Clos du Tue Boeuf</a>, <a href="http://louisdressner.com/producers/Auge/">Maisons Brûlées</a>, <a href="http://louisdressner.com/producers/Morantin/">Noella Morantin</a> and <glossary title="740">old vines</glossary> from their own <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="760">parcel</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <em>La Bodice</em>. The <glossary title="867">Romorantin</glossary> was also sourced from <a href="http://louisdressner.com/producers/Cazin/">François Cazin</a>, <a href="http://zrswines.com/our-producers/?wproducer=25">Phillipe Tessier</a> and other locals with old vine <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="941">massales</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> <br />
<br />
After a nice stroll through the vines behind the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="254">cellar</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> we took a quick drive to the <glossary title="594">lieu dit</glossary> <em>Les Ardilles</em>. <br />
<img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_02//c0/e5/c0e58265c846142e4ef451b200bf2e5f.jpg" /></p>
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<p><em>Les Ardilles</em> is five <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="523">hectares</glossary><span>:</span></span></span> two <glossary title="523">hectares</glossary> of <glossary title="805">Pinot Noir</glossary> and <glossary title="478">Gamay</glossary> produce the "Les Ardilles" <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="363">cuvée</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> with an additional three <glossary title="523">hectares</glossary> of <glossary title="">Chardonnay</glossary> that go into the <glossary title="283">Cheverny</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="163">Blanc</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> There is also a bit of <glossary title="366">Côt</glossary> planted, which produces the "Pivoine" if the quality is high enough. Otherwise it's <glossary title="168">blended</glossary> into the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="871">rosé</glossary><span>.</span></span></span><br />
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The whole area is completely surrounded by woods, with rockier <glossary term="Manganese" title="626">Manganese</glossary> and <glossary title="301">clay</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="991">subsoils</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> <br />
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<em>"You never sink into these. They are much easier to work."</em><br />
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For vines he's recently had to replant, Hervé has sourced <glossary title="802">Pinot fin</glossary> <glossary title="941">massales</glossary> from three <glossary title="1133">plots</glossary> of the infamous <a href="http://domaine-prieure-roch.com/" target="notSet">Prieuré-Roch</a> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="427">estate</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> <br />
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<em>"They add a lot of finesse."</em><br />
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Duh! Hervé hopes to find different <glossary title="805">Pinot Noir</glossary> plants in the future to have as much diversity as possible. <br />
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The last bit of land we visited were the recently acquired <glossary title="760">parcels</glossary> in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="463">Fougères-sur-Bièvre</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> To get there, Hervé led us through some cereal fields. </p>
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<p>Zaggy made sure to stay close.</p>
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<p>The grass here is visibly untamed, but it isn't that big of a deal because the soils are so rich in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="301">clay</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> </p>
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These <glossary title="927">Sauvignon Blanc</glossary> vines were planted in 1973, and 40% of them are missing vines. Hervé will eventually replant.<br />
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We also saw some old vine <glossary term="Menu Pineau/Orbois" title="1464">Menu Pineau</glossary> that goes into "Bulle Blanche".</p>
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<p>As mentioned earlier, these vines are are at double the <glossary title="419">elevation</glossary> of Bodice and on much heavier <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="301">clay</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> so they don't get hit by <glossary title="1135">frost</glossary> at all.<br />
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We then headed to the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="254">cellar</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Here's ALL of the 2012 <glossary title="283">Cheverny</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="163">Blanc</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
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Hervé was only able to produce 4 <glossary title="524">hl</glossary> instead of a usual 300<glossary title="524">hl</glossary> in 2012, and it's <glossary title="441">fermenting</glossary> very slowly. <br />
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<em>"The challenge with years like 2012 is </em><glossary title="521"><em>harvesting</em></glossary><em> grapes at optimal </em><glossary title="639"><em>maturities</em></glossary><em>, since they are so heterogeneous." </em><br />
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All the whites start <glossary title="441">fermenting</glossary> in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="325">concrete</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> then are <glossary title="843">racked</glossary> to <glossary title="142">barrel</glossary> to finish. "Acacias" was a <glossary title="168">blend</glossary> of <glossary title="1130">young</glossary> and <glossary title="740">old vines</glossary> together in 2012, so there will be no "Chataigners" (the name of the <glossary title="740">old vine</glossary> <glossary title="867">Romo</glossary>). Sugar and <glossary title="622">malo</glossary> was done, and the wine was still <glossary title="74">aging</glossary> on its <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="590">lees</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Beautiful <span class="zalup"><span> <glossary title="723">nose</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> fresh, and vibrant. "La Bodice" 12 was also really good. <br />
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"Les Ardilles" will be the only red in 2012. Only a microscopic 60<glossary title="524">hl</glossary> of red was produced!!! We tasted the <glossary title="802">Pinot</glossary> and <glossary title="478">Gamay</glossary> before <glossary title="1146">blending</glossary>; the grapes that would normally have made the <glossary title="283">Cheverny</glossary> Rouge went into the <glossary title="871">rosé</glossary> this year. The final wine will be under 12% alcohol. <br />
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And to finish the visit, check out these cool wine fair posters. </p>
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<p>Hervé Villemade has been working his family's vines in <glossary title="257">Cellettes</glossary> since taking over from his father in 1995. Today, the <glossary title="427">estate</glossary> represents about 22 <glossary title="523">hectares</glossary> of <glossary title="746">organically</glossary> farmed fruit within the <glossary title="283">Cheverny</glossary> and <glossary title="352">Cour-Cheverny</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="108">AOCs</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> along with a <glossary title="729">négociant</glossary> license to supplement production with local grapes.</p>
<p>When Hervé first took over, everything was farmed <glossary title="279">chemically</glossary> and <glossary title="1104">vinified</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="331">conventionally</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Unaware of an alternative, he followed in his parents' footsteps but quickly found his work "uninspired and bland." Around 1997, Hervé was introduced to the wines of Marcel Lapierre and <a href="http://louisdressner.com/producers/Tue_Boeuf/">Clos du Tue-Boeuf</a>. Both immediately struck a chord with him.</p>
<p>Coincidentally, at the exact same time that he was discovering these wines, Hervé started developing a very serious allergy to <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="993">sulfur</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> He decided to eliminate it from the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="254">cellar</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> but his first <glossary title="913">sans souffre</glossary> <glossary title="1104">vinifications</glossary> quickly led to the conclusion that to make wine this way, you needed the hightest quality grapes. So in 2000, Hervé decided to convert the <glossary title="427">estate</glossary> to <glossary title="746">organic</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1103">viticulture</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> <br />
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The majority of the production consists of <glossary title="163">Cheverny Blanc</glossary> and <strong><glossary title="283">Cheverny Rouge</glossary></strong>, all farmed from the historic family <glossary title="760">parcels</glossary> in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="257">Cellettes</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> A single vineyard <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="283">Cheverny Rouge</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> "Les Ardilles<em>"</em>, is produced in <glossary title="1109">vintages</glossary> that permit, along with "Desiré", a <glossary title="617">magnum </glossary>only <glossary title="185">bottling</glossary> of very old <glossary title="805">Pinot Noir</glossary> planted by his grandfather. In addition, Hervé owns a significant amount of the <glossary title="1139">indigenous</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="867">Romorantin</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> a grape so unique to this part of the <glossary title="602">Loire</glossary> that it receives its own <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="113">appellation</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="352">Cour-Cheverny</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> For the <span class="zalup"><span> <glossary title="867">Romorantins</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary title="363">cuvées</glossary> are <glossary title="185">bottled</glossary> as <span class="zalup"><span> <glossary title="959">single vineyard expressions</glossary><span>:</span></span></span> "Les Châtaigniers" and the <glossary title="740">old vine</glossary> "Les Acacias". <br />
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Hervé's area is particularly vulnerable to spring <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1135">frost</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> a phenomenon that has greatly accelerated in the last 20 years with global warming. Due to mild winters, the vines due not go into as deep a hybernation and beging <glossary title="1166">budding</glossary> weeks earlier than they used to. Spring<strong> <glossary title="1135">frosts</glossary></strong> have always been common, but would occur at a point in the vines' vegetative cycle where little to no harm could be done.</p>
<p>Hervé has lost part of his crop to this phenomenon in most years, including nine <glossary title="1109">vintages</glossary> between 1995 and 2012 where 80% or more of his family land was destroyed. In such, Hervé has had to completetly overhaul and rethink his entreprise. He has invested in costly anti<span class="zalup"><span><span>-</span><glossary title="1135">frost</glossary> </span></span>towers, is <glossary title="834">pruning</glossary> much later and leaving grass to intentionally compete with the vines. It also led him to begin a <glossary title="729">négociant</glossary> business sourcing grapes from local purveyors.</p>
<p><em>This interview with Hervé Villemade took place in <glossary title="178">Bordeaux</glossary> in June 2011. </em></p>
<p><strong>Tell us about your estate.</strong><br />
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Domaine du Moulin (now Domaine Hervé Villemade <strong>(</strong>is a family <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="427">estate</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> My grandparents founded it, and I took over in 1995. At the time there were 8.5 <glossary title="523">hectares</glossary> of rather <glossary title="1130">young vines</glossary> (15-20 years) that my grandparents had planted. The farm used to be in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="815">polyculture</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> and the <glossary title="740">old vines</glossary> from the 1960's had been removed to plant new ones in the 1970's.<br />
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When I took over, I replanted five <glossary title="523">hectares</glossary> and started renting some vines as well. I've also bought land over the years and today we find ourselves working 25 <glossary title="523">hectares</glossary> (eight are mine, 8.5 are my parents' and the rest is rented).<br />
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<strong>A lot has changed in your work ethic since you've taken over in 1995. Can you outline what and how that happened?</strong><br />
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When I first took over the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="427">estate</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> everything was <glossary title="331">farmed conventionally</glossary> with <glossary title="279">chemicals</glossary> in the vineyards. Unaware of the alternatives, I followed in my parents' footsteps and continued working this way. I quickly became very bored with the work and the wines. They were uninspired and bland. <br />
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Around this time I was introduced to wines that were different, that spoke to me, that struck a chord emotionally: <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="708">natural wines</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Coincidentally, at the exact same time that I was discovering these wines I started developing a very serious allergy to <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="993">sulfur</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> <br />
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This was around 1997. My first attempt at <glossary title="993">sulfur</glossary> free winemaking was in 1999. What I hadn't realized, and what I quickly found out (through Marcel Lapierre in particular), was that to make <glossary title="993">sulfur</glossary> free wine, you needed clean grapes. From that point I immediately started <glossary title="332">converting</glossary> the entire <glossary title="427">estate</glossary> to <glossary title="746">organic</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="78">agriculture</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> This was in 2000. <br />
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<strong>Are you certified organic? </strong><br />
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Yes.<br />
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<strong>Do you think certification is important?</strong><br />
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It certainly isn't a prerequisite. Personally I think it helps communicate to the public what we're doing. We've always followed a very simple logic: we do what we say and we say what we do. <br />
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<strong>You mentioned earlier that you were introduced to certain wines that inspired you. Can you remember any of these?</strong><br />
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Of course. The first were Marcel Lapierre's wines. But the wines that really made me start to believe I could make wines in this style were Thierry Puzelat's. Marcel's wines were the spark, but he lived 450 kilometers away from me and was working with very different <glossary title="1026">terroirs</glossary>; having a neighbor pull it off right next door was the inspiration and motivation to follow in his footsteps.<br />
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Jean Foillard and Gramenon were also two early inspirations that truly marked me. <br />
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<strong>Whats the work in the vines like?</strong><br />
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It's very simple and essentially the way everyone was working 50 years ago. We make a conscious effort to upkeep grass, since you need grass but you don't want too much of it competing with the vines either. In doing so we adapt to each <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1109">vintage</glossary><span>:</span></span></span> if it's very dry we'll get rid of all the grass in early spring but if it's humid we'll keep as much of it as possible. <br />
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As far as the vines getting sick, again we adapt to each situation as it comes along. So for example if there's a potential problem with <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1137">mildew</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> we'll <glossary title="328">treat</glossary> it accordingly (strictly with <glossary title="333">copper</glossary>), but not if the vines don't need it. <br />
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In a way, adapting to each <glossary title="1109">vintage</glossary> is at the heart of <glossary title="746">organic</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="78">agriculture</glossary><span>:</span></span></span> there is no secret recipe or miracle product to make everything work out perfectly every year. You just need to always be there, to act accordingly and at the right time.<br />
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<strong>What about in the cellar?</strong><br />
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I have two different <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1026">terroirs</glossary><span>:</span></span></span> <glossary title="909">sandy</glossary> <glossary title="455">flint</glossary> and <glossary title="301">clay</glossary>/ <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="455">flint</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> For the <glossary title="909">sandy</glossary> <glossary title="455">flint</glossary> soils, we <glossary title="1104">vinify</glossary> in <glossary title="325">concrete</glossary> <glossary title="1140">tanks</glossary> for the whites and <glossary title="1218">open vats</glossary> for the reds. We then <glossary title="185">bottle</glossary> the wine the following spring, which is typical of the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="602">Loire</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> <br />
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For the <glossary title="301">clay</glossary>/<glossary title="455">flint</glossary> soils, we <glossary title="1104">vinify</glossary> in 500 or 220 liter <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="142">barrels</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> The wines then <glossary title="74">age</glossary> in <glossary title="142">barrel</glossary> for 12, 15 or 18 months depending on the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1109">vintage</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> I do this because this <glossary title="1026">terroir</glossary> lends itself to higher concentrations of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="662">minerality</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> and the wines need the time to balance themselves out before <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="185">bottling</glossary><span>.</span></span></span><br />
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<strong>How do you feel about the AOC system, and more specifically your appellations of Cheverny and Cour-Cheverny? </strong><br />
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Both <glossary title="113">appellations</glossary> are relatively recent, dating back to 1992. I come from a family of <glossary title="1089">vignerons</glossary> firmly rooted in the area. When I was a child I remember my father going to meetings every week, building the foundation that led to the creation of both <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="113">appellations</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> As with any <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="108">AOC</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> it's a lot of work. You really have to demonstrate and validate the regional history of your <glossary title="1026">terroirs</glossary> and <glossary title="1071">varietals</glossary> in order to be approved.<br />
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In such I am very attached to both the <glossary title="283">Cheverny</glossary> and <glossary title="352">Cour-Cheverny</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="113">appellations</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> and to the <glossary title="108">AOC</glossary> system as a whole. An <glossary title="113">appellation</glossary> really means something as long as you make it mean something. <br />
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For example, a 60<glossary title="524">hl</glossary> by <glossary title="523">hectare</glossary> maximum is wishful thinking: it's to say that if a particularly productive <glossary title="1109">vintage</glossary> were to occur, this would be an estimate of what the vines could maximally produce. Of course with <glossary title="279">chemical</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="78">agriculture</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary title="1089">vignerons</glossary> are going to do their best to make sure they have 60<glossary title="524">hl</glossary> every year. The point I'm trying to make is that this wasn't applied to set a standard of productivity, but rather to gauge the realistic maximal possibilities of the region. <br />
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I've never reached 6<span class="zalup"><span>0<glossary title="524">hl</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> On average we do between 30 and 35. And on years where we get to 4<span class="zalup"><span>5<glossary title="524">hl</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> we don't feel bad about it because it's a direct result of the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1109">vintage</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> and in such respects and represents the <glossary title="1109">vintage</glossary> accurately. <br />
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<strong>You've mentioned natural wines earlier and you are a prominent member of the AVN (Association des Vins Naturels). Where do you stand on the natural wine debate?</strong><br />
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I am not a fan of categorizations: I make wine that I want to make, and that's that. As far as I'm concerned, that means making wine from clean grapes and nothing else. Once that's done, I <glossary title="447">filter</glossary> because the wines need it. I add a little <glossary title="993">sulfur</glossary> at <glossary title="185">bottling</glossary> (and let's not forget that I'm highly allergic!) because the wines need it. If they don't need it, which does occasionally happen, then I don't add any <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="993">sulfur</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> It's as simple as that. I drink wine everyday, and a lot of it is my own, so it's in my best interest that they suit my tastes!<br />
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In the end, the wine speaks for itself. But if you're going to ask me what kind of wine I make, it goes back to what I said earlier about working <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="746">organically</glossary><span>:</span></span></span> we do what we say and say what we do. I think that the <glossary title="1089">vigneron's</glossary> personality and work will reflect immensely in his wines, and you can't hide this from an experienced taster. There is no way to cheat: if you say you did something but it's not true, someone is going to know you're lying and call you out on it. <br />
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I want people to drink the wines and appreciate them based on their personal preferences. Getting caught up in semantics like "I'm natural" or "he's not natural enough" or "he's too extreme" is a waste of everyone's time.<br />
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<strong>On a lighter note, do you have any favorite wines to drink?</strong><br />
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I love <glossary title="805">Pinot Noir</glossary> and <glossary title="508">Grenache</glossary> for red.<br />
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For white, my favorite <glossary title="1071">varietals</glossary> are <glossary title="867">Romorantin</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="922">Savagnin</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> They are almost polar opposites in style, but they share the quality of unmistakable <glossary title="120">aromatics</glossary> you won't taste anywhere else. No one is ever going to confuse <glossary title="867">Romorantin</glossary> with <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="927">Sauvignon Blanc</glossary><span>!</span></span></span> <br />
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All over the world there are ten <glossary title="1071">varietals</glossary> that everyone always talk about, but there used to be thousands in France. Unfortunately there are only a few hundred at this point, and <glossary title="1071">varietals</glossary> like <glossary title="867">Romorantin</glossary> and <glossary title="922">Savagnin</glossary> do an incredible job of linking you to a specific place, something that isn't always the case with the "big ten".</p>
Article
producer visit02.08.2019
This visit with Hervé Villemade took place in June, 2013
<p><strong><em>This visit with Hervé Villemade took place in June, 2013</em></strong></p>
<p><strong><em>Words by Jules Dressner, photos by John Kafarski and Jules Dressner.</em></strong></p>
<p>Recognize the statue in the header picture? </p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_02//56/b7/56b7e0da4aec2cdefbe5918c0978b8fa.jpg" /><br />
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Hmmmmm....<br />
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When pulling in to the Villemade's property, the first thing you spot is their fruit and vegetable garden.</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_02//f8/80/f880f9048f0b2a40fef2ad0a6ac3757a.jpg" /><br />
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The garden feeds the whole family. Hervé and Isabelle's 80 year old father takes care of it all on his own. That and <glossary title="834">pruning</glossary> "his" two <glossary title="523">hectares</glossary> oof vines all by himself every winter.<br />
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<em>"We just let him take as long as he needs. He's in no rush."</em><br />
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And yes, that's a big Homer Simpson doll. Scares the crows. <br />
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The first <glossary title="760">parcel</glossary> we visited was the <glossary title="740">old vine</glossary> <glossary title="805">Pinot Noir</glossary> that goes into "Desiré", a <glossary title="617">magnum</glossary> only <glossary title="363">cuvée</glossary> <glossary title="185">bottled</glossary> exclusively in exceptional <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1109">vintages</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> </p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_02//53/57/5357cf617f04e30f68a9eadeac809190.jpg" /></p>
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<p>Last year, the "Desiré" <glossary title="760">parcel</glossary> produced 2 <glossary title="524">hl</glossary>/ <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="523">h</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> which represents a 90% loss. And though 2012 was particularly brutal, the vines in this area are extremely prone to <span class="zalup"><span> <glossary title="1135">frost</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> which has prompted Hervé to purchase vines in the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1135">frost</glossary><span>-</span></span></span>free nearby village of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="463">Fougères-sur-Bièvre</glossary><span>.</span></span></span><br />
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<em>"In the 19 years I've worked this land, it's frosted badly 9 times. One year out of two: it adds up."</em><br />
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This is what <glossary title="1135">frost</glossary> damage looks like.</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_02//8f/3f/8f3fec3b0a1208f45f012370eb69b70f.jpg" /></p>
<p>Still, Hervé is happy because the bit of sun they've had this summer has sprouted grapes from the damaged <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="206">buds</glossary><span>.</span></span></span><br />
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The soils here are heavy <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="301">clay</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
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Next, we visited some nearby <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="867">Romorantin</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> </p>
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<p>The soils here are <glossary title="909">sand</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="455">flint</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
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<p>Fortunately, 2013 hasn't been a bad year for <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1137">mildew</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> the other recurring issue in the area. In efforts to thwart the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="474">fungal illness</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> Hervé has started using a seaweed solution against it. <br />
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It's critical that <glossary title="1137">mildew</glossary> does not propagate right before <glossary title="1179">flowering</glossary> (when we visited), because this is when vines are the most vulnerable: since the sap's flow is so concentrated on the flower, it can hardly protect itself against the spread of illness.<br />
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The other big issue? The dreaded little <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="284">chevreuils</glossary><span>:</span></span></span></p>
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<em>"If I could shoot them all, I would!" </em><br />
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Hervé is using a rotten garden solution to keep them away.<br />
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<em>"It works, but you have to re-spray every time it rains." </em><br />
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Still in the same vicinity, Hervé pointed out some recently planted <glossary title="927">Sauvignon</glossary> and <glossary title="867">Romorantin</glossary> that will eventually make it into the <glossary title="283">Cheverny</glossary> <glossary title="163">Blanc</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="352">Cour-Cheverny</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
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In an effort to have the most diverse, heterogeneous plantation possible, Hervé has sourced <glossary title="941">selections massales</glossary> from over 10 friends, including <a href="http://louisdressner.com/producers/Roche/">Clos Roche Blanche</a>, <a href="http://louisdressner.com/producers/Tue_Boeuf/">Clos du Tue Boeuf</a>, <a href="http://louisdressner.com/producers/Auge/">Maisons Brûlées</a>, <a href="http://louisdressner.com/producers/Morantin/">Noella Morantin</a> and <glossary title="740">old vines</glossary> from their own <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="760">parcel</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <em>La Bodice</em>. The <glossary title="867">Romorantin</glossary> was also sourced from <a href="http://louisdressner.com/producers/Cazin/">François Cazin</a>, <a href="http://zrswines.com/our-producers/?wproducer=25">Phillipe Tessier</a> and other locals with old vine <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="941">massales</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> <br />
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After a nice stroll through the vines behind the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="254">cellar</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> we took a quick drive to the <glossary title="594">lieu dit</glossary> <em>Les Ardilles</em>. <br />
<img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_02//c0/e5/c0e58265c846142e4ef451b200bf2e5f.jpg" /></p>
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<p><em>Les Ardilles</em> is five <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="523">hectares</glossary><span>:</span></span></span> two <glossary title="523">hectares</glossary> of <glossary title="805">Pinot Noir</glossary> and <glossary title="478">Gamay</glossary> produce the "Les Ardilles" <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="363">cuvée</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> with an additional three <glossary title="523">hectares</glossary> of <glossary title="">Chardonnay</glossary> that go into the <glossary title="283">Cheverny</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="163">Blanc</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> There is also a bit of <glossary title="366">Côt</glossary> planted, which produces the "Pivoine" if the quality is high enough. Otherwise it's <glossary title="168">blended</glossary> into the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="871">rosé</glossary><span>.</span></span></span><br />
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The whole area is completely surrounded by woods, with rockier <glossary term="Manganese" title="626">Manganese</glossary> and <glossary title="301">clay</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="991">subsoils</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> <br />
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<em>"You never sink into these. They are much easier to work."</em><br />
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For vines he's recently had to replant, Hervé has sourced <glossary title="802">Pinot fin</glossary> <glossary title="941">massales</glossary> from three <glossary title="1133">plots</glossary> of the infamous <a href="http://domaine-prieure-roch.com/" target="notSet">Prieuré-Roch</a> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="427">estate</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> <br />
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<em>"They add a lot of finesse."</em><br />
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Duh! Hervé hopes to find different <glossary title="805">Pinot Noir</glossary> plants in the future to have as much diversity as possible. <br />
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The last bit of land we visited were the recently acquired <glossary title="760">parcels</glossary> in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="463">Fougères-sur-Bièvre</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> To get there, Hervé led us through some cereal fields. </p>
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<img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_02//60/f2/60f289ac148e797169da1ed962b00f4b.jpg" /></p>
<p>Zaggy made sure to stay close.</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Aug_02//e6/3c/e63cdf4ffecf03c898f29e44355a2e61.jpg" /></p>
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<p>The grass here is visibly untamed, but it isn't that big of a deal because the soils are so rich in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="301">clay</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> </p>
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These <glossary title="927">Sauvignon Blanc</glossary> vines were planted in 1973, and 40% of them are missing vines. Hervé will eventually replant.<br />
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We also saw some old vine <glossary term="Menu Pineau/Orbois" title="1464">Menu Pineau</glossary> that goes into "Bulle Blanche".</p>
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<p>As mentioned earlier, these vines are are at double the <glossary title="419">elevation</glossary> of Bodice and on much heavier <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="301">clay</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> so they don't get hit by <glossary title="1135">frost</glossary> at all.<br />
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We then headed to the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="254">cellar</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Here's ALL of the 2012 <glossary title="283">Cheverny</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="163">Blanc</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
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Hervé was only able to produce 4 <glossary title="524">hl</glossary> instead of a usual 300<glossary title="524">hl</glossary> in 2012, and it's <glossary title="441">fermenting</glossary> very slowly. <br />
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<em>"The challenge with years like 2012 is </em><glossary title="521"><em>harvesting</em></glossary><em> grapes at optimal </em><glossary title="639"><em>maturities</em></glossary><em>, since they are so heterogeneous." </em><br />
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All the whites start <glossary title="441">fermenting</glossary> in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="325">concrete</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> then are <glossary title="843">racked</glossary> to <glossary title="142">barrel</glossary> to finish. "Acacias" was a <glossary title="168">blend</glossary> of <glossary title="1130">young</glossary> and <glossary title="740">old vines</glossary> together in 2012, so there will be no "Chataigners" (the name of the <glossary title="740">old vine</glossary> <glossary title="867">Romo</glossary>). Sugar and <glossary title="622">malo</glossary> was done, and the wine was still <glossary title="74">aging</glossary> on its <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="590">lees</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Beautiful <span class="zalup"><span> <glossary title="723">nose</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> fresh, and vibrant. "La Bodice" 12 was also really good. <br />
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"Les Ardilles" will be the only red in 2012. Only a microscopic 60<glossary title="524">hl</glossary> of red was produced!!! We tasted the <glossary title="802">Pinot</glossary> and <glossary title="478">Gamay</glossary> before <glossary title="1146">blending</glossary>; the grapes that would normally have made the <glossary title="283">Cheverny</glossary> Rouge went into the <glossary title="871">rosé</glossary> this year. The final wine will be under 12% alcohol. <br />
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And to finish the visit, check out these cool wine fair posters. </p>
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