Sauvignon Blanc, Gamay, Côt, Cabernet Franc, Pineau d'Aunis, Menu Pineau
Fun facts
The estate is technically called Domaine de la Méchinière, but we know how impossible this would be for an American to pronounce. Plus we'd rather promote Valérie by name anyway.
The estate is technically called Domaine de la Méchinière, but we know how impossible this would be for an American to pronounce. Plus we'd rather promote Valérie by name anyway.
Sauvignon Blanc, Gamay, Côt, Cabernet Franc, Pineau d'Aunis, Menu Pineau
Fun facts
The estate is technically called Domaine de la Méchinière, but we know how impossible this would be for an American to pronounce. Plus we'd rather promote Valérie by name anyway.
<p>Valérie Forgues' story is one of twists and turns, highs and lows, perseverance and overcoming adversity. The unexpected disciple of <u><a href="http://louisdressner.com/producers/Roche/">Clos Roche Blanche's Didier Barrouillet</a></u>, she initially had no intention of becoming a <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1089">vigneronne</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> </p>
<p>Valérie and her ex-husband purchased Domaine de la Méchinière in the late 1990's. Owning vines had always been a dream of her husband's; Valérie, a young stay at home mother, agreed to the prospect. They chose <glossary title="1036">Touraine</glossary> because of its proximity to <glossary title="761">Paris</glossary> and the affordability of the land. At the time of the acquisition, the <glossary title="427">estate</glossary> was worked <glossary title="279">chemically</glossary>; already adverse to such practices, the young couple chose to work sustainably under the <u><a href="http://terravitis.com/?lang=en" target="_blank">Terravitis</a></u> label. <br />
<br />
Fast forward to 2008: Valérie finds herself alone with her two sons at the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="427">estate</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Facing bankruptcy and the possibility of uprooting her sons from the house they grew up in, she decides, despite no <glossary title="1103">viticultural</glossary> or winemaking experience, to persevere with the 16 <glossary title="523">hectare</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="427">estate</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Her brother-in-law, a retired <span class="zalup"><span> <glossary title="1089">vigneron</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> is there in the early days to help keep things afloat. <br />
<br />
Parallel to these events, Valérie had struck up a friendship with her neighbors Catherine Roussel and Didier Barrouillet, who at the time were running the legendary Clos Roche Blanche just five minutes away. Seeing Valérie in need, Didier began off-handedly giving her advice based on his vision of <glossary title="78">agriculture</glossary> and winemaking. This philosophy resonated with her deeply.<br />
<br />
She kept asking Didier questions, and with every answer was eager to learn more. Things were moving along, and the <glossary title="427">estate</glossary> was once again being run <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="999">sustainably</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> But Didier believed things could be pushed further, and after a heated argument over <glossary title="332">converting</glossary> the <glossary title="427">estate</glossary> to <glossary title="746">organic</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1103">viticulture</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> he agreed to help Valérie through the whole process. Today, all 16 <glossary title="523">hectares</glossary> are <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="260">certified organic</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> <glossary title="321">Commercial yeasts </glossary>have been banned from the <glossary title="254">cellar</glossary> for many years now, and Didier has guided Valérie with his master's touch in crafting pure, precise wines from <glossary title="1036">Touraine's</glossary> native grapes. <br />
<br />
Still, one final obstacle remained: <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="611">machine harvesting</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Didier had for years argued with Valérie that <glossary title="611">machine-harvested</glossary> grapes would always severely lower quality. Just as with <glossary title="332">converting</glossary> to <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="746">organics</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> her reticence came from the mental-block that running a <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> team would be too much of a risk. But with the 2016 <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1109">vintage</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> Valérie finally took the plunge. It was the final step we needed to start working with her, and are happy to report the results are fantastic!</p>
<p><em>This interview with Valérie Forgues was done over a Skype conversation in April, 2017.</em></p>
<p><strong>How did you end up heading Domaine de la Méchinière?</strong><br />
<br />
I’m not from the area and have absolutely no <glossary title="78">agricultural</glossary> or <glossary title="1103">viticultural</glossary> background. I do have some family ties to the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="282">Cher</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> but it’s a total coincidence I found myself living here. Like a good little Frenchie, I went to school to follow a career path.<br />
<br />
To answer your question about the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="427">estate</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> love is what brought me here. It was a decision I made with my ex-husband about 20 years ago. I knew nothing about wine.<br />
<br />
<strong>So you founded it 20 years ago?</strong><br />
<br />
It existed already. We took it over and learned everything from the ground up. From the get-go we were interested in an taking an ecological approach to the vines, which for us at the time meant working <glossary title="999">sustainably</glossary> under the <glossary title="1023">Terravitis</glossary> label. <br />
<br />
Fast forward to 2008, and I find myself alone at the <glossary title="427">estate</glossary> with my two kids. It was a very dark time for me, but I had the good fortune of having an incredible neighbor: Didier Barrouillet! He would swing by every so often and offer to help me out. By 2009, he offered to guide me in restructuring the <glossary title="427">estate</glossary> from the ground up.<br />
<br />
I found comfort in this new path of <glossary title="746">organic</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1103">viticulture</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> and it was the beginning of me finding real, genuine pleasure and satisfaction in being a <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1089">vigneronne</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> <br />
<br />
<strong>You never thought about being a vigneronne before this? </strong><br />
<br />
I honestly didn’t even think about it. I was focused on raising my sons. At the time, family was my top priority. As you may know, kids take up a lot of time!<br />
<br />
Being a <glossary title="1089">vigneronne</glossary> never occurred to me. Never in a million years would have imagined getting inside a <glossary title="1140">vat</glossary> to scrub it clean! This morning I <glossary title="843">racked</glossary> my <glossary title="366">Côt</glossary>; another thing I never thought I’d ever do! It's not always easy, but it’s gratifying. My back may hurt at night, but the satisfaction I get from making MY wine is incredible. <br />
<br />
<strong>So, to backtrack a bit, what inspired you and your ex-husband to start the estate?</strong><br />
<br />
My studies at university had focused on <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="78">agriculture</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> I’d always been attracted to nature. When I returned to France to live with the man I loved, he proposed a winery. We picked <glossary title="1036">Touraine</glossary> for simple economic reasons: it’s relatively close to Paris and relatively cheap to start an <glossary title="427">estate</glossary> here. <br />
<br />
And because of my engineering degree in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="78">agriculture</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> we decided that the entire <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="427">estate</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> from the ownership, financial and administrative side was to be under my name. Looking back on this now and where I find myself, this ended up being a good thing. <br />
<br />
<strong>Why then did you decide to continue the estate all by yourself in 2008? It must have felt like an enormous undertaking, especially considering how hands-off you had been prior to the separation.</strong><br />
<br />
It’s very simple: my children. As a mother, I could not let them lose the house they had grown up in. It was the aura of their entire childhood. Even though it seemed impossible economically, physically and mentally, I nonetheless persevered and stuck my neck out to keep things afloat. <br />
<br />
That’s how I felt at the time. I think it was also subconsciously a way to rediscover myself, to find a new strength in myself when I thought there was none left. <br />
<br />
<strong>So how did you go about taking the estate over?</strong><br />
<br />
My brother-in-law was a retired <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1089">vigneron</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> and he was instrumental in keeping things together in the very beginning. He quite frankly ran the entire <glossary title="427">estate</glossary> the first few months, and for that I will always be thankful to him.<br />
<br />
He was also very helpful in actively engaging me, in encouraging me to come see the work in the vines, what different choices meant, etc... He also made me understand that if I really wanted to do this, just how much responsibility it really meant. From managing employees to working the tractor, he showed me the way. <br />
<br />
It was hard though, because of course having him around meant a constant reminder of my ex-husband. It also bothered me because at that point Didier would swing by occasionally and point out that his work was extremely <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="331">conventional</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Didier’s philosophy and vision of <glossary title="78">agriculture</glossary> resonated with me in a way my brother-in-law’s did not.<br />
<br />
One day I pulled him aside and told him that his <glossary title="279">chemical</glossary> approach to the vineyards was something I wanted to move away from. He didn’t disagree, but simply retorted that he did not want to jeopardize an already fragile <span class="zalup"><span> <glossary title="427">estate</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> To him, this justified using <glossary title="321">selected yeasts</glossary> for the wines, that we NEEDED all the technology and science available to help us through hard times. <br />
<br />
But then I’d speak to Didier about the same subject, and you can imagine that it was a completely different story! I knew it was a riskier approach, but I became increasingly drawn to it. Conversation by conversation, it got to the point where he told me he would help me through the entire process of transforming the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="427">estate</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> <br />
<br />
<strong>How did you meet Didier?</strong><br />
<br />
It’s the countryside and I live five minutes away from Clos Roche Blanche!<br />
<br />
Around 2008, that very difficult period of my life, I also spent a lot of time with Catherine (Roussel). She was incredibly welcoming and a true friend in my time of need. I will never forget her help! I wasn’t socializing much, and I think he saw that I needed help. He’s the one that proposed being more active in reshaping the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="427">estate</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> <br />
<br />
<strong>What do you think Didier saw in you?</strong><br />
<br />
What he saw in me I have no idea. I often ask myself the same question! He probably saw an interesting <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1026">terroir</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> that I had an interesting <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="254">cellar</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> interesting vines... He’s very aware of his surroundings, and maybe he just wanted his neighbor to work the same way that he did. <br />
<br />
But I think what really drew him in was that I kept asking questions. Every answer led to more questions, to new discoveries. The more I discovered from him, the more I wanted to learn! He’s always had the reputation of being extremely knowledgeable, and even back when I was with my ex-husband, we would occasionally solicit him for advice. So there was already an exchange between us and a respect for Didier. <br />
<br />
<strong>So how did the two of you go about creating the new direction for the estate?</strong><br />
<br />
I can’t even remember how the process started. But I know that we constantly talked about what was possible in the vines and the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="254">cellar</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> and that his responses resonated with me. I’d ask him what he would have done in my place. This led to him visiting the vines and <glossary title="">cellar</glossary> with me and getting increasingly specific with his advice. Some of it I follow, some I don't; but if I’m asking someone for advice it’s either to follow it or have a conversation about it!<br />
<br />
I think that it was around 2011 that the collaboration was fully under way. He was helping me in the vines, constantly tasting from <span class="zalup"><span> <glossary title="1140">vat</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> giving his advice... It all happened very naturally. <br />
<br />
As far as <glossary title="332">converting</glossary> to <glossary title="746">organic</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1103">viticulture</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> which I began in 2013, these are the moments of our collaboration that I remember most vividly. It started with an argument: he told me that at the point I’d progressed, that I should take the next step and <glossary title="332">convert</glossary> the vineyards. I told him to hold his horses: this meant making an already demanding job even harder! I had to ensure I was bringing fruit to the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="254">cellar</glossary><span>!</span></span></span> <br />
<br />
I could never have taken such a big risk without his help, so he agreed he’d be there every step of the way to help me <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="332">convert</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> And you know how it is: for someone to commit voluntarily (and benevolently!) to such a huge undertaking, he’s got to believe in the final result!<br />
<br />
<strong>What were the biggest challenges in the conversion? </strong><br />
<br />
I think the biggest challenge when working <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="746">organically</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> for me at least, is mastering how to properly work the soils. This was something we never worried about with my ex-husband. Didier taught me that if you aren’t properly managing your soils, you are going to have are much harder time managing your vines and your <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1129">yields</glossary><span>.</span></span></span><br />
<br />
<strong>What about in the cellar?</strong><br />
<br />
This whole experience has taught me that taking the safe approach is bullshit. Using <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1128">selected yeasts</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> particularly for the “aromatic profile” of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="927">Sauvignon</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> started to feel absurd in the early stages of the <glossary title="746">organic </glossary><span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="332">conversion</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> It was immediate. <br />
<br />
This <glossary title="332">conversion</glossary> taught me two crucial facts for making wines without entrants: hygiene and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1018">temperature control</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> That’s why today I clean all the <glossary title="1140">vats</glossary> myself and am <glossary title="1018">checking on temperature</glossary> multiple times a day during <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="441">fermentation</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> <br />
<br />
<strong> </strong><strong>That sounds like something Didier would say.</strong><br />
<br />
You know, the first <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> I did with him, he was there every night tasting and watching over the juices. Every night! And he was still running<strong> </strong>Clos Roche Blanche at the time! The following year, he came two or three times a week. And the <glossary title="1109">vintage</glossary> after that, he’d come only if I'd call him.<br />
<br />
<strong>2016 was marked by the final step in this whole conversion: your first vintage hand harvesting. How did it go?</strong><br />
<br />
It went great! It had been at least two years that Didier had kept telling me I needed to stop <glossary title="611">machine harvesting</glossary> if I wanted to reach the best quality possible for the wine. Much like the original argument about working <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="746">organically</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> I pushed back: I told him I had to be realistic, that it was too much work, too much risk.<br />
<br />
And when we met about a year and half ago to discuss potentially working together, you told me that you would consider bringing the wines in, but the grapes had to be <glossary title="520">hand harvested</glossary> if we were to continue the conversation. It was actually then and there that I realized how important this was to people. I’d also heard this argument from Thierry Puzelat. And when people you want to surround yourself with are trying to push you in the right direction, after a while you come to accept that there must be a reason for it!<br />
<br />
It’s hilarious because the second Didier and I got back into the car after our meeting, I burst out in laughter and told him: “You’re going to be happy! You’ve been on my case about <glossary title="520">hand-harvesting</glossary> for two years; we have a 20 minute conversation with Jules, and I’m convinced!” I had no idea how I was going to do it, but I knew then it was going to happen. The mental block was gone. <br />
<br />
In a way, I guess it helped that we had very little to <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> in 2016! It was a piece of cake! The weather was gorgeous, the pickers were happy and we were done by 2pm everyday! I didn’t even have to worry about cooling down grapes! I’m usually up till 2am with that. In 2016, we were done and ready to go at 8pm! The <glossary title="">cellar</glossary> was cleaned, the grapes were in the <glossary title="1140">tanks</glossary> and we were ready for <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="112">apero</glossary><span>.</span></span></span><br />
<br />
So yes, it went well. <br />
<br />
<strong>We’ve talked so much about the metamorphosis of the estate that we haven’t touched on the amount of hectares, grapes grown, etc...</strong><br />
<br />
I cultivate 16 <glossary title="523">hectares</glossary> on <glossary title="301">clay</glossary> and <glossary title="596">limestone</glossary> soils, and grow seven different grapes. All the grapes are traditional to the region, and many are almost extinct. I have some very, very <glossary title="740">old vines</glossary> over 100 years old: in white I grow the original grape of the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1036">Touraine</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="116">Arbois</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> co-planted with <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="281">Chenin Blanc</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> also fairly rare in our area. With this I make my "Pineaux Melées" <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="363">cuvée</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> I also have an <glossary title="523">hectare</glossary> of the rare and <glossary title="1139">indigenous</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="799">Pineau d’Aunis</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> also very <span class="zalup"><span> <glossary title="740">old vines</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> I of course grow <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="927">Sauvignon</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> along with <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="478">Gamay</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary title="366">Côt</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="216">Cabernet Franc</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> <br />
<br />
I must point out that I do sell a sizable portion of my grapes, about four <glossary title="523">hectares</glossary> worth, to Thierry Puzelat and Pascal Potaire. This is very helpful for me, because not only is it a source of income but it also takes a huge load off my shoulders!<br />
<br />
<strong>How did you meet Puzelat?</strong><br />
<br />
I had been invited to a tasting three years ago, and he came to taste at my stand. I did not know who he was, but immediately knew he was a <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1089">vigneron</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> We had a friendly conversation, exchanged contacts and two months later, he reached out to me. At the time, he was drawn to the fact that I had some <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="799">Pineau d’Aunis</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> We got to talking and he then asked about <glossary title="927">Sauvignon</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="478">Gamay</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> and he came to pick which <glossary title="760">parcels</glossary> he’d like to work with.<br />
<br />
Meeting Thierry was a godsend. He was the first person to reach out to me about potentially buying grapes. Not only does it save me a lot of work, but that someone was actually interested in my <glossary title="1026">terroirs</glossary> meant a lot! And they are established, respected producers, so that was inspiring. <br />
<br />
<strong>Do you think you’ll continue working with Thierry?</strong><br />
<br />
I’m a very loyal person. When Thierry and I originally discussed selling him grapes, he asked me if I’d consider being a stable source for him in the future. I of course had no problem with that since he was relieving me of such a heavy burden!<br />
<br />
Thierry and Jean-Marie have been very good to me, so yes I will continue working with them. It’s a moral and commercial engagement. <br />
<br />
<strong>What’s the work like in the cellar?</strong><br />
<br />
For the whites, the major shift this year came along with our first <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="520">manual harvest</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Before we had a pump that would suck out the grapes from the machine’s bin into the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="827">press</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Didier aptly pointed out that we could not do this with <glossary title="520">hand harvested</glossary> grapes. So we moved the <glossary title="827">press</glossary> and created a receptor for the grapes so they don’t get damaged before <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="827">press</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Then we <glossary title="392">direct-press</glossary> and instantly cool down the juice for <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="843">racking</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> The juice then heats back up naturally and a <glossary title="976">spontaneous fermentation</glossary> occurs. <glossary title="622">Malo</glossary> usually occurs. <br />
<br />
For the reds, we <glossary title="378">destem</glossary> and throw the grapes directly into <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1140">vat</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> either <glossary title="445">fiberglass</glossary> or <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="986">stainless</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> <br />
<br />
<br />
<strong>We’ve talked in person about how your labels are quite symbolic to you. Can you elaborate?</strong><br />
<br />
The<strong> <glossary title="573">label</glossary></strong> is a painting that my mother made when she was a young woman. She was very artistic in her youth, and quite prolific! She grew up in this region, so the painting represents coming back to my roots. And the woman she drew is clearly a Tourangelle (a woman from <glossary title="1036">Touraine</glossary>); you can tell by her typical garb. <br />
<br />
One day she was cleaning up her house, and told me she needed to get rid of a bunch of paintings. So she brought a bunch over to my place, because she knew I had room for them. I saw the Tourangelle and something just resonated with me. My family, my region, the depiction of a woman: these are what I want to bring to the <glossary title="427">estate</glossary> with my taking it over on my own. <br />
<br />
Before the woman we had a very traditional <glossary title="573">label</glossary> with a drawing of my house. My house is nice and all, but I could do without it on the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="573">labels</glossary><span>!</span></span></span> And I can’t fail to mention that having a woman on the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="573">label</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> a woman that lets me trace back my roots here, a woman painted by my mother, all this matters to me.</p>
<p><strong>November 14th, 2023:</strong></p>
<p>We had a lot of luck this year. Of course we are getting used to the climate being unpredictable and violent, but the waves of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Frost" title="1135">frost</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary term="Hail" title="1136">hail</glossary> and rain kept happening around us but not in our direct sector, never affecting our vines. Past generations have always said that the first storms of the year create a pattern and path they follow for the rest of the season, so we were spared. </p>
<p>Of course, no one is spared from the heat these days! We started <glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvesting</glossary> earlier than we'd anticipated due to an unexpected heatwave in September. Over 100 degrees in the afternoon! So we organized ourselves to gather the biggest team we could and start very early so that that the grapes and the pickers wouldn't suffer too much from the heat. Everyone did a great job, they were incredible.</p>
<p>The <glossary term="Vinification" title="1104">vinifications</glossary> are still in full effect on some of the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vat/Tank" title="1140">vats</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> others are finished. We are very happy with the results. 2023 is a beautiful and happy <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintage</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> <br />
</p>
harvest report23.12.2022
Years of Work Finally Paying Off in 2022 for Valérie Forgues
<p>Before I start the recap, I apologize for not having any photos of the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvest</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> as they were so intense I had no time! </p>
<p>It's becoming more and more complicated to get and manage people for <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvest</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> This year was particularly bad, I have no idea why... So instead of overseeing a team, I too was picking grapes to make sure we were getting them in the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> In the end, we hustled and picked everything before the rain started falling hard: a good amount of grapes and a huge relief that the <glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvest</glossary> wouldn't be extended due to the weather!</p>
<p>We were privileged by the weather this year: no <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Frost" title="1135">frost</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> no <glossary term="Hail" title="1136">hail</glossary> and the right amount of rain after every consecutive heatwave. This combined with our proper, precise working of the soils (the culmination of years' work) has finally paid off with <glossary term="Yield" title="1129">yields</glossary> that seem proper compared to what we've picked in past years since we've implemented these changes. </p>
<p>The <glossary term="Vinification" title="1104">vinifications</glossary> have also been impeccable. The <glossary term="Malolactic Fermentation" title="622">malolactic fermentation</glossary> is already done. We are are <glossary term="Racking/Soutirage" title="843">racking</glossary> the last <glossary term="Vat/Tank" title="1140">vats</glossary> this afternoon! In the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> we've also brought about many improvements thanks to investments we were finally able to make: better regulation of the <glossary term="Vat/Tank" title="1140">vats </glossary>with softer shifts in temperature, thus providing better conditions for the yeasts and bacteria. I'm also being much more rigorous in analyzing the juices, something I'd learned from and leaned on Didier for but now do alone, to know where the wine is at and to be more reactive if needed. </p>
<p>The only photo I was able to snap is above, our future "Orbin" 2022 (it was one of the only quiet moments.)</p>
<p>Our <glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvest</glossary> went well even if it was super fast. We picked all of the <glossary term="Sauvignon Blanc" title="927">Sauvignon</glossary> in a single day (usually it's three) and did only one <glossary term="Pressing" title="827">press</glossary> which was less than half full... We had a big team to pick not a lot of grapes!</p>
<p>In the <glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary> it was a headache as well: where do you reception and <glossary term="Vinification" title="1104">vinify</glossary> very small volumes? We had to move things around, change the circuitry for <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Temperature Control" title="1018">temperature control</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> do it all over again when we realized we'd estimated wrong... It was a huge and exhausting challenge!</p>
<p>But in the end wines are doing fine and the <glossary term="Fermentation" title="441">fermentations</glossary> are going well. </p>
<p>I only snapped a few pics because I was so busy, here they are. </p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//919/3c/18/3c1819a1b05d56a19032da90f0255ed8.jpg" /><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//919/17/8d/178dc5e3804fa452cdbbca050de0122b.jpg" /><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//919/68/d4/68d4491532e782ee21648e387d2c58d9.jpg" /><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//919/01/3f/013f2f3d02703db5eaa6ff99b89e8fc3.jpg" /></p>
<p>Obviously, this was not a year we could have imagined... For us, there was a huge gap in our commercial responsibilities (which all but collapsed) and our work on the vines and soils, something we are ever improving. Since I was confined to my home, I might as well spend all my attention on the vines. </p>
<p>Last year I could already feel that we were getting much better at mastering the soil work; our results in 2020 are congruent with this progress. We've invested more in the tools we need and are really ready to grab the bull by the horns. 2020 was the year my vines started showing renewed vigor. This was a true, genuine pleasure.</p>
<p>But of course, it was yet another difficult year to manage, from heavy rain to <glossary term="Drought" title="1167">drought</glossary> (unfortunately this is now recurrent). By late July, I was getting really worried with the lack of water. But in the end, we suffered much more from burnt <glossary term="Cluster/Bunch" title="1138">clusters</glossary> than from <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Drought" title="1167">drought</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> And the losses in some of the <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcels</glossary> of <glossary term="Sauvignon Blanc" title="927">Sauvignon</glossary> and <glossary term="Malbec" title="366">Côt</glossary> are once again considerable.</p>
<p>On the other hand, one of of my hardest to work <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcels</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> the very old <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Pineau d'Aunis" title="799">Pineau d'Aunis</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> was incredibly tenacious! It must be said we were more vigilant this year and did many more <glossary term="Pass" title="1144">passes</glossary> to make sure the grass did not compete too much. I still feel there is a lot of work to do here, but we were nonetheless able to double the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Yield" title="1129">yields</glossary><span>!</span></span></span> Maybe it "felt the dragon" and wants to produce more Tinta'Glia (<strong>ed note:</strong> Valérie is referring to a red wine she made in 2019 named Tinta'Glia after the dragon in Peter Pan). In any case, it's very satisfying to see just how much the vines know how to respond to the messages we send them. </p>
<p>Now it's time to be hyper-vigilant with the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vinification" title="1104">vinifications</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Everything is going well for the moment, it's actually quite enjoyable. The <glossary term="Maturation" title="639">maturities</glossary> of the different grapes were quite spaced out, meaning the <glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvest</glossary> was too. This gave me the time to calmly pick and prepare each <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vat/Tank" title="1140">vat</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> The only thing is it looks like the <glossary term="alcoholic potential" title="1381">potentials</glossary> are quite high this year, so I'll have to see the wines through to the end.</p>
<p>I'm working on it!</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//856/ed/0e/ed0e2d33d8a1de5ae748946e54128327.jpg" /><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//856/a7/f7/a7f7fe3930a2e25c59fc0e204743a8a9.jpg" /><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//856/57/0d/570d3969f593c10e73163cd44f09a6f5.jpg" /><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//856/c5/5d/c55d8f6d62a639402132306e238ba951.jpg" /></p>
<p>2019: What to say?</p>
<p>That I absolutely need to reinforce my skills in working the soils, learn to tame the grass competing with the vines. We’ve made some good progress in 2019 but the vines are still struggling to find their way.</p>
<p>Weather wise, it was a hot summer with <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Drought" title="1167">drought</glossary><span>:</span></span></span> yet another small crop. And this time, it seemed like we were going to have something nice based on <glossary term="Budding" title="1166">budding</glossary> in the spring. But many grapes were burned on certain <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcels</glossary> and the others were very, very thirsty. </p>
<p>The results are a very <glossary term="Concentration" title="324">concentrated</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintage</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> In fact, the <glossary term="Concentration" title="324">concentrations</glossary> were getting so high that we put the petal to the metal: I’ve never picked so quickly.</p>
<p>I did not have time to take many photos, here are a few in the evening while working in the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> </p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//822/04/9a/049a266220ff48f30ccfcad08dad72b6.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//822/fb/e3/fbe3d860b3728af2a8e9b8f7b64e3bac.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//822/07/10/07102bd81e2dd0be061a8da0e0ec4060.jpg" /><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//822/a2/d3/a2d35ce8dfae6df0d5c086b7a952411d.jpg" /></p>
harvest report12.07.2018
Valérie Forgues Sets Herself A Personal Challenge in 2018
<p>Today I'm in the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="254">cellar</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary title="843">racking</glossary> the <glossary title="927">Sauvignons</glossary> and doing a <glossary title="850">remontage</glossary> on the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="799">Pineau d'Aunis</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Yes, it will be a red wine this year, the quality is top-notch.<br />
<br />
Still no rain, so the grapes are hyper<span class="zalup"><span><span>-</span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="324">concentrated</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></span></span> And it's very hot... We're starting very early in the morning, right at the crack of dawn. We've been packing a lot of water, towels and for many of us, jumping into the river after a morning of picking.<br />
<br />
The <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="927">Sauvignons</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary title="478">Gamay</glossary> and <glossary title="799">Pineau d'Aunis</glossary> are picked. Next week, we'll tackle the last of the grapes under a punishing sun.<br />
<br />
My challenge: that my wines be as beautiful as the beautiful young picker in the attached photos!</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Sep_18//b7/28/b728427548005f0750ca4ccc36337692.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Sep_18//95/bb/95bba0eeb4f3c01f4ac6ff8ed34fd356.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Sep_18//88/15/881548dc07f40486adb9d5b9ec24514d.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Sep_18//6e/09/6e09f215791be570314121bacde9b7a3.jpg" /></p>
<p> </p>
<p>After a first week of harvesting, the <glossary title="927">Sauvignon</glossary> and <glossary title="478">Gamay</glossary> is in the cellar.<br />
<br />
I'd predicted a delay in the <glossary title="639">maturities</glossary> of vines that succumbed to the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1135">frost</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> but the <glossary title="927">Sauvignons</glossary> were more stressed by the lack of water in the final stretch of summer: everything is very <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="324">concentrated</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary term="Aromatic" title="120">aromatic</glossary> and of high quality. We decided to not waste any time, because rain was announced.<br />
<br />
We were a large team of pickers in order to cover each surface quickly and to get the grapes in the <glossary title="254">cellar</glossary> nice and fresh. The juices are great, but there will be even less than last year... a sad record to break. And I must really thank the team: they did not miss a single grape!<br />
<br />
The <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="366">Côt</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary title="217">Cabernet</glossary> and "Pineaux Mêlés" are not ripe as of this writing, with very high <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="71">acidities</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Everything is currently on hold, as the rain finally arrived. I think it will help re-invigorate them. It's not that warm out and there is wind, which limits the risk of rot, so that's good.<br />
<br />
The <glossary title="740">old vines</glossary> Pineaux Mêlés <glossary title="1135">frosted</glossary> really bad, and while some <glossary title="1138">bunches</glossary> came out of them, it's not enough to make a <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="363">cuvée</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> If I find a solution I will let you know.</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Sep_18//00/17/0017c40c6c549a2235428f1203eaed4a.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Sep_18//9b/b8/9bb853a7438abc8483933818a7c9b3cf.jpg" /></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Valérie Forgues' story is one of twists and turns, highs and lows, perseverance and overcoming adversity. The unexpected disciple of <u><a href="http://louisdressner.com/producers/Roche/">Clos Roche Blanche's Didier Barrouillet</a></u>, she initially had no intention of becoming a <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1089">vigneronne</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> </p>
<p>Valérie and her ex-husband purchased Domaine de la Méchinière in the late 1990's. Owning vines had always been a dream of her husband's; Valérie, a young stay at home mother, agreed to the prospect. They chose <glossary title="1036">Touraine</glossary> because of its proximity to <glossary title="761">Paris</glossary> and the affordability of the land. At the time of the acquisition, the <glossary title="427">estate</glossary> was worked <glossary title="279">chemically</glossary>; already adverse to such practices, the young couple chose to work sustainably under the <u><a href="http://terravitis.com/?lang=en" target="_blank">Terravitis</a></u> label. <br />
<br />
Fast forward to 2008: Valérie finds herself alone with her two sons at the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="427">estate</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Facing bankruptcy and the possibility of uprooting her sons from the house they grew up in, she decides, despite no <glossary title="1103">viticultural</glossary> or winemaking experience, to persevere with the 16 <glossary title="523">hectare</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="427">estate</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Her brother-in-law, a retired <span class="zalup"><span> <glossary title="1089">vigneron</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> is there in the early days to help keep things afloat. <br />
<br />
Parallel to these events, Valérie had struck up a friendship with her neighbors Catherine Roussel and Didier Barrouillet, who at the time were running the legendary Clos Roche Blanche just five minutes away. Seeing Valérie in need, Didier began off-handedly giving her advice based on his vision of <glossary title="78">agriculture</glossary> and winemaking. This philosophy resonated with her deeply.<br />
<br />
She kept asking Didier questions, and with every answer was eager to learn more. Things were moving along, and the <glossary title="427">estate</glossary> was once again being run <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="999">sustainably</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> But Didier believed things could be pushed further, and after a heated argument over <glossary title="332">converting</glossary> the <glossary title="427">estate</glossary> to <glossary title="746">organic</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1103">viticulture</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> he agreed to help Valérie through the whole process. Today, all 16 <glossary title="523">hectares</glossary> are <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="260">certified organic</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> <glossary title="321">Commercial yeasts </glossary>have been banned from the <glossary title="254">cellar</glossary> for many years now, and Didier has guided Valérie with his master's touch in crafting pure, precise wines from <glossary title="1036">Touraine's</glossary> native grapes. <br />
<br />
Still, one final obstacle remained: <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="611">machine harvesting</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Didier had for years argued with Valérie that <glossary title="611">machine-harvested</glossary> grapes would always severely lower quality. Just as with <glossary title="332">converting</glossary> to <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="746">organics</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> her reticence came from the mental-block that running a <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> team would be too much of a risk. But with the 2016 <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1109">vintage</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> Valérie finally took the plunge. It was the final step we needed to start working with her, and are happy to report the results are fantastic!</p>
<p><em>This interview with Valérie Forgues was done over a Skype conversation in April, 2017.</em></p>
<p><strong>How did you end up heading Domaine de la Méchinière?</strong><br />
<br />
I’m not from the area and have absolutely no <glossary title="78">agricultural</glossary> or <glossary title="1103">viticultural</glossary> background. I do have some family ties to the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="282">Cher</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> but it’s a total coincidence I found myself living here. Like a good little Frenchie, I went to school to follow a career path.<br />
<br />
To answer your question about the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="427">estate</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> love is what brought me here. It was a decision I made with my ex-husband about 20 years ago. I knew nothing about wine.<br />
<br />
<strong>So you founded it 20 years ago?</strong><br />
<br />
It existed already. We took it over and learned everything from the ground up. From the get-go we were interested in an taking an ecological approach to the vines, which for us at the time meant working <glossary title="999">sustainably</glossary> under the <glossary title="1023">Terravitis</glossary> label. <br />
<br />
Fast forward to 2008, and I find myself alone at the <glossary title="427">estate</glossary> with my two kids. It was a very dark time for me, but I had the good fortune of having an incredible neighbor: Didier Barrouillet! He would swing by every so often and offer to help me out. By 2009, he offered to guide me in restructuring the <glossary title="427">estate</glossary> from the ground up.<br />
<br />
I found comfort in this new path of <glossary title="746">organic</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1103">viticulture</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> and it was the beginning of me finding real, genuine pleasure and satisfaction in being a <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1089">vigneronne</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> <br />
<br />
<strong>You never thought about being a vigneronne before this? </strong><br />
<br />
I honestly didn’t even think about it. I was focused on raising my sons. At the time, family was my top priority. As you may know, kids take up a lot of time!<br />
<br />
Being a <glossary title="1089">vigneronne</glossary> never occurred to me. Never in a million years would have imagined getting inside a <glossary title="1140">vat</glossary> to scrub it clean! This morning I <glossary title="843">racked</glossary> my <glossary title="366">Côt</glossary>; another thing I never thought I’d ever do! It's not always easy, but it’s gratifying. My back may hurt at night, but the satisfaction I get from making MY wine is incredible. <br />
<br />
<strong>So, to backtrack a bit, what inspired you and your ex-husband to start the estate?</strong><br />
<br />
My studies at university had focused on <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="78">agriculture</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> I’d always been attracted to nature. When I returned to France to live with the man I loved, he proposed a winery. We picked <glossary title="1036">Touraine</glossary> for simple economic reasons: it’s relatively close to Paris and relatively cheap to start an <glossary title="427">estate</glossary> here. <br />
<br />
And because of my engineering degree in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="78">agriculture</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> we decided that the entire <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="427">estate</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> from the ownership, financial and administrative side was to be under my name. Looking back on this now and where I find myself, this ended up being a good thing. <br />
<br />
<strong>Why then did you decide to continue the estate all by yourself in 2008? It must have felt like an enormous undertaking, especially considering how hands-off you had been prior to the separation.</strong><br />
<br />
It’s very simple: my children. As a mother, I could not let them lose the house they had grown up in. It was the aura of their entire childhood. Even though it seemed impossible economically, physically and mentally, I nonetheless persevered and stuck my neck out to keep things afloat. <br />
<br />
That’s how I felt at the time. I think it was also subconsciously a way to rediscover myself, to find a new strength in myself when I thought there was none left. <br />
<br />
<strong>So how did you go about taking the estate over?</strong><br />
<br />
My brother-in-law was a retired <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1089">vigneron</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> and he was instrumental in keeping things together in the very beginning. He quite frankly ran the entire <glossary title="427">estate</glossary> the first few months, and for that I will always be thankful to him.<br />
<br />
He was also very helpful in actively engaging me, in encouraging me to come see the work in the vines, what different choices meant, etc... He also made me understand that if I really wanted to do this, just how much responsibility it really meant. From managing employees to working the tractor, he showed me the way. <br />
<br />
It was hard though, because of course having him around meant a constant reminder of my ex-husband. It also bothered me because at that point Didier would swing by occasionally and point out that his work was extremely <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="331">conventional</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Didier’s philosophy and vision of <glossary title="78">agriculture</glossary> resonated with me in a way my brother-in-law’s did not.<br />
<br />
One day I pulled him aside and told him that his <glossary title="279">chemical</glossary> approach to the vineyards was something I wanted to move away from. He didn’t disagree, but simply retorted that he did not want to jeopardize an already fragile <span class="zalup"><span> <glossary title="427">estate</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> To him, this justified using <glossary title="321">selected yeasts</glossary> for the wines, that we NEEDED all the technology and science available to help us through hard times. <br />
<br />
But then I’d speak to Didier about the same subject, and you can imagine that it was a completely different story! I knew it was a riskier approach, but I became increasingly drawn to it. Conversation by conversation, it got to the point where he told me he would help me through the entire process of transforming the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="427">estate</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> <br />
<br />
<strong>How did you meet Didier?</strong><br />
<br />
It’s the countryside and I live five minutes away from Clos Roche Blanche!<br />
<br />
Around 2008, that very difficult period of my life, I also spent a lot of time with Catherine (Roussel). She was incredibly welcoming and a true friend in my time of need. I will never forget her help! I wasn’t socializing much, and I think he saw that I needed help. He’s the one that proposed being more active in reshaping the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="427">estate</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> <br />
<br />
<strong>What do you think Didier saw in you?</strong><br />
<br />
What he saw in me I have no idea. I often ask myself the same question! He probably saw an interesting <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1026">terroir</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> that I had an interesting <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="254">cellar</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> interesting vines... He’s very aware of his surroundings, and maybe he just wanted his neighbor to work the same way that he did. <br />
<br />
But I think what really drew him in was that I kept asking questions. Every answer led to more questions, to new discoveries. The more I discovered from him, the more I wanted to learn! He’s always had the reputation of being extremely knowledgeable, and even back when I was with my ex-husband, we would occasionally solicit him for advice. So there was already an exchange between us and a respect for Didier. <br />
<br />
<strong>So how did the two of you go about creating the new direction for the estate?</strong><br />
<br />
I can’t even remember how the process started. But I know that we constantly talked about what was possible in the vines and the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="254">cellar</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> and that his responses resonated with me. I’d ask him what he would have done in my place. This led to him visiting the vines and <glossary title="">cellar</glossary> with me and getting increasingly specific with his advice. Some of it I follow, some I don't; but if I’m asking someone for advice it’s either to follow it or have a conversation about it!<br />
<br />
I think that it was around 2011 that the collaboration was fully under way. He was helping me in the vines, constantly tasting from <span class="zalup"><span> <glossary title="1140">vat</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> giving his advice... It all happened very naturally. <br />
<br />
As far as <glossary title="332">converting</glossary> to <glossary title="746">organic</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1103">viticulture</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> which I began in 2013, these are the moments of our collaboration that I remember most vividly. It started with an argument: he told me that at the point I’d progressed, that I should take the next step and <glossary title="332">convert</glossary> the vineyards. I told him to hold his horses: this meant making an already demanding job even harder! I had to ensure I was bringing fruit to the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="254">cellar</glossary><span>!</span></span></span> <br />
<br />
I could never have taken such a big risk without his help, so he agreed he’d be there every step of the way to help me <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="332">convert</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> And you know how it is: for someone to commit voluntarily (and benevolently!) to such a huge undertaking, he’s got to believe in the final result!<br />
<br />
<strong>What were the biggest challenges in the conversion? </strong><br />
<br />
I think the biggest challenge when working <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="746">organically</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> for me at least, is mastering how to properly work the soils. This was something we never worried about with my ex-husband. Didier taught me that if you aren’t properly managing your soils, you are going to have are much harder time managing your vines and your <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1129">yields</glossary><span>.</span></span></span><br />
<br />
<strong>What about in the cellar?</strong><br />
<br />
This whole experience has taught me that taking the safe approach is bullshit. Using <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1128">selected yeasts</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> particularly for the “aromatic profile” of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="927">Sauvignon</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> started to feel absurd in the early stages of the <glossary title="746">organic </glossary><span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="332">conversion</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> It was immediate. <br />
<br />
This <glossary title="332">conversion</glossary> taught me two crucial facts for making wines without entrants: hygiene and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1018">temperature control</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> That’s why today I clean all the <glossary title="1140">vats</glossary> myself and am <glossary title="1018">checking on temperature</glossary> multiple times a day during <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="441">fermentation</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> <br />
<br />
<strong> </strong><strong>That sounds like something Didier would say.</strong><br />
<br />
You know, the first <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> I did with him, he was there every night tasting and watching over the juices. Every night! And he was still running<strong> </strong>Clos Roche Blanche at the time! The following year, he came two or three times a week. And the <glossary title="1109">vintage</glossary> after that, he’d come only if I'd call him.<br />
<br />
<strong>2016 was marked by the final step in this whole conversion: your first vintage hand harvesting. How did it go?</strong><br />
<br />
It went great! It had been at least two years that Didier had kept telling me I needed to stop <glossary title="611">machine harvesting</glossary> if I wanted to reach the best quality possible for the wine. Much like the original argument about working <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="746">organically</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> I pushed back: I told him I had to be realistic, that it was too much work, too much risk.<br />
<br />
And when we met about a year and half ago to discuss potentially working together, you told me that you would consider bringing the wines in, but the grapes had to be <glossary title="520">hand harvested</glossary> if we were to continue the conversation. It was actually then and there that I realized how important this was to people. I’d also heard this argument from Thierry Puzelat. And when people you want to surround yourself with are trying to push you in the right direction, after a while you come to accept that there must be a reason for it!<br />
<br />
It’s hilarious because the second Didier and I got back into the car after our meeting, I burst out in laughter and told him: “You’re going to be happy! You’ve been on my case about <glossary title="520">hand-harvesting</glossary> for two years; we have a 20 minute conversation with Jules, and I’m convinced!” I had no idea how I was going to do it, but I knew then it was going to happen. The mental block was gone. <br />
<br />
In a way, I guess it helped that we had very little to <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> in 2016! It was a piece of cake! The weather was gorgeous, the pickers were happy and we were done by 2pm everyday! I didn’t even have to worry about cooling down grapes! I’m usually up till 2am with that. In 2016, we were done and ready to go at 8pm! The <glossary title="">cellar</glossary> was cleaned, the grapes were in the <glossary title="1140">tanks</glossary> and we were ready for <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="112">apero</glossary><span>.</span></span></span><br />
<br />
So yes, it went well. <br />
<br />
<strong>We’ve talked so much about the metamorphosis of the estate that we haven’t touched on the amount of hectares, grapes grown, etc...</strong><br />
<br />
I cultivate 16 <glossary title="523">hectares</glossary> on <glossary title="301">clay</glossary> and <glossary title="596">limestone</glossary> soils, and grow seven different grapes. All the grapes are traditional to the region, and many are almost extinct. I have some very, very <glossary title="740">old vines</glossary> over 100 years old: in white I grow the original grape of the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1036">Touraine</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="116">Arbois</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> co-planted with <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="281">Chenin Blanc</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> also fairly rare in our area. With this I make my "Pineaux Melées" <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="363">cuvée</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> I also have an <glossary title="523">hectare</glossary> of the rare and <glossary title="1139">indigenous</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="799">Pineau d’Aunis</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> also very <span class="zalup"><span> <glossary title="740">old vines</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> I of course grow <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="927">Sauvignon</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> along with <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="478">Gamay</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary title="366">Côt</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="216">Cabernet Franc</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> <br />
<br />
I must point out that I do sell a sizable portion of my grapes, about four <glossary title="523">hectares</glossary> worth, to Thierry Puzelat and Pascal Potaire. This is very helpful for me, because not only is it a source of income but it also takes a huge load off my shoulders!<br />
<br />
<strong>How did you meet Puzelat?</strong><br />
<br />
I had been invited to a tasting three years ago, and he came to taste at my stand. I did not know who he was, but immediately knew he was a <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1089">vigneron</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> We had a friendly conversation, exchanged contacts and two months later, he reached out to me. At the time, he was drawn to the fact that I had some <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="799">Pineau d’Aunis</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> We got to talking and he then asked about <glossary title="927">Sauvignon</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="478">Gamay</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> and he came to pick which <glossary title="760">parcels</glossary> he’d like to work with.<br />
<br />
Meeting Thierry was a godsend. He was the first person to reach out to me about potentially buying grapes. Not only does it save me a lot of work, but that someone was actually interested in my <glossary title="1026">terroirs</glossary> meant a lot! And they are established, respected producers, so that was inspiring. <br />
<br />
<strong>Do you think you’ll continue working with Thierry?</strong><br />
<br />
I’m a very loyal person. When Thierry and I originally discussed selling him grapes, he asked me if I’d consider being a stable source for him in the future. I of course had no problem with that since he was relieving me of such a heavy burden!<br />
<br />
Thierry and Jean-Marie have been very good to me, so yes I will continue working with them. It’s a moral and commercial engagement. <br />
<br />
<strong>What’s the work like in the cellar?</strong><br />
<br />
For the whites, the major shift this year came along with our first <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="520">manual harvest</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Before we had a pump that would suck out the grapes from the machine’s bin into the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="827">press</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Didier aptly pointed out that we could not do this with <glossary title="520">hand harvested</glossary> grapes. So we moved the <glossary title="827">press</glossary> and created a receptor for the grapes so they don’t get damaged before <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="827">press</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Then we <glossary title="392">direct-press</glossary> and instantly cool down the juice for <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="843">racking</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> The juice then heats back up naturally and a <glossary title="976">spontaneous fermentation</glossary> occurs. <glossary title="622">Malo</glossary> usually occurs. <br />
<br />
For the reds, we <glossary title="378">destem</glossary> and throw the grapes directly into <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1140">vat</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> either <glossary title="445">fiberglass</glossary> or <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="986">stainless</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> <br />
<br />
<br />
<strong>We’ve talked in person about how your labels are quite symbolic to you. Can you elaborate?</strong><br />
<br />
The<strong> <glossary title="573">label</glossary></strong> is a painting that my mother made when she was a young woman. She was very artistic in her youth, and quite prolific! She grew up in this region, so the painting represents coming back to my roots. And the woman she drew is clearly a Tourangelle (a woman from <glossary title="1036">Touraine</glossary>); you can tell by her typical garb. <br />
<br />
One day she was cleaning up her house, and told me she needed to get rid of a bunch of paintings. So she brought a bunch over to my place, because she knew I had room for them. I saw the Tourangelle and something just resonated with me. My family, my region, the depiction of a woman: these are what I want to bring to the <glossary title="427">estate</glossary> with my taking it over on my own. <br />
<br />
Before the woman we had a very traditional <glossary title="573">label</glossary> with a drawing of my house. My house is nice and all, but I could do without it on the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="573">labels</glossary><span>!</span></span></span> And I can’t fail to mention that having a woman on the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="573">label</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> a woman that lets me trace back my roots here, a woman painted by my mother, all this matters to me.</p>
<p><strong>November 14th, 2023:</strong></p>
<p>We had a lot of luck this year. Of course we are getting used to the climate being unpredictable and violent, but the waves of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Frost" title="1135">frost</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary term="Hail" title="1136">hail</glossary> and rain kept happening around us but not in our direct sector, never affecting our vines. Past generations have always said that the first storms of the year create a pattern and path they follow for the rest of the season, so we were spared. </p>
<p>Of course, no one is spared from the heat these days! We started <glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvesting</glossary> earlier than we'd anticipated due to an unexpected heatwave in September. Over 100 degrees in the afternoon! So we organized ourselves to gather the biggest team we could and start very early so that that the grapes and the pickers wouldn't suffer too much from the heat. Everyone did a great job, they were incredible.</p>
<p>The <glossary term="Vinification" title="1104">vinifications</glossary> are still in full effect on some of the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vat/Tank" title="1140">vats</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> others are finished. We are very happy with the results. 2023 is a beautiful and happy <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintage</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> <br />
</p>
<p>Before I start the recap, I apologize for not having any photos of the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvest</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> as they were so intense I had no time! </p>
<p>It's becoming more and more complicated to get and manage people for <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvest</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> This year was particularly bad, I have no idea why... So instead of overseeing a team, I too was picking grapes to make sure we were getting them in the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> In the end, we hustled and picked everything before the rain started falling hard: a good amount of grapes and a huge relief that the <glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvest</glossary> wouldn't be extended due to the weather!</p>
<p>We were privileged by the weather this year: no <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Frost" title="1135">frost</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> no <glossary term="Hail" title="1136">hail</glossary> and the right amount of rain after every consecutive heatwave. This combined with our proper, precise working of the soils (the culmination of years' work) has finally paid off with <glossary term="Yield" title="1129">yields</glossary> that seem proper compared to what we've picked in past years since we've implemented these changes. </p>
<p>The <glossary term="Vinification" title="1104">vinifications</glossary> have also been impeccable. The <glossary term="Malolactic Fermentation" title="622">malolactic fermentation</glossary> is already done. We are are <glossary term="Racking/Soutirage" title="843">racking</glossary> the last <glossary term="Vat/Tank" title="1140">vats</glossary> this afternoon! In the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> we've also brought about many improvements thanks to investments we were finally able to make: better regulation of the <glossary term="Vat/Tank" title="1140">vats </glossary>with softer shifts in temperature, thus providing better conditions for the yeasts and bacteria. I'm also being much more rigorous in analyzing the juices, something I'd learned from and leaned on Didier for but now do alone, to know where the wine is at and to be more reactive if needed. </p>
<p>The only photo I was able to snap is above, our future "Orbin" 2022 (it was one of the only quiet moments.)</p>
<p>Our <glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvest</glossary> went well even if it was super fast. We picked all of the <glossary term="Sauvignon Blanc" title="927">Sauvignon</glossary> in a single day (usually it's three) and did only one <glossary term="Pressing" title="827">press</glossary> which was less than half full... We had a big team to pick not a lot of grapes!</p>
<p>In the <glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary> it was a headache as well: where do you reception and <glossary term="Vinification" title="1104">vinify</glossary> very small volumes? We had to move things around, change the circuitry for <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Temperature Control" title="1018">temperature control</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> do it all over again when we realized we'd estimated wrong... It was a huge and exhausting challenge!</p>
<p>But in the end wines are doing fine and the <glossary term="Fermentation" title="441">fermentations</glossary> are going well. </p>
<p>I only snapped a few pics because I was so busy, here they are. </p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//919/3c/18/3c1819a1b05d56a19032da90f0255ed8.jpg" /><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//919/17/8d/178dc5e3804fa452cdbbca050de0122b.jpg" /><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//919/68/d4/68d4491532e782ee21648e387d2c58d9.jpg" /><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//919/01/3f/013f2f3d02703db5eaa6ff99b89e8fc3.jpg" /></p>
<p>Obviously, this was not a year we could have imagined... For us, there was a huge gap in our commercial responsibilities (which all but collapsed) and our work on the vines and soils, something we are ever improving. Since I was confined to my home, I might as well spend all my attention on the vines. </p>
<p>Last year I could already feel that we were getting much better at mastering the soil work; our results in 2020 are congruent with this progress. We've invested more in the tools we need and are really ready to grab the bull by the horns. 2020 was the year my vines started showing renewed vigor. This was a true, genuine pleasure.</p>
<p>But of course, it was yet another difficult year to manage, from heavy rain to <glossary term="Drought" title="1167">drought</glossary> (unfortunately this is now recurrent). By late July, I was getting really worried with the lack of water. But in the end, we suffered much more from burnt <glossary term="Cluster/Bunch" title="1138">clusters</glossary> than from <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Drought" title="1167">drought</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> And the losses in some of the <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcels</glossary> of <glossary term="Sauvignon Blanc" title="927">Sauvignon</glossary> and <glossary term="Malbec" title="366">Côt</glossary> are once again considerable.</p>
<p>On the other hand, one of of my hardest to work <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcels</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> the very old <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Pineau d'Aunis" title="799">Pineau d'Aunis</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> was incredibly tenacious! It must be said we were more vigilant this year and did many more <glossary term="Pass" title="1144">passes</glossary> to make sure the grass did not compete too much. I still feel there is a lot of work to do here, but we were nonetheless able to double the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Yield" title="1129">yields</glossary><span>!</span></span></span> Maybe it "felt the dragon" and wants to produce more Tinta'Glia (<strong>ed note:</strong> Valérie is referring to a red wine she made in 2019 named Tinta'Glia after the dragon in Peter Pan). In any case, it's very satisfying to see just how much the vines know how to respond to the messages we send them. </p>
<p>Now it's time to be hyper-vigilant with the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vinification" title="1104">vinifications</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Everything is going well for the moment, it's actually quite enjoyable. The <glossary term="Maturation" title="639">maturities</glossary> of the different grapes were quite spaced out, meaning the <glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvest</glossary> was too. This gave me the time to calmly pick and prepare each <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vat/Tank" title="1140">vat</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> The only thing is it looks like the <glossary term="alcoholic potential" title="1381">potentials</glossary> are quite high this year, so I'll have to see the wines through to the end.</p>
<p>I'm working on it!</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//856/ed/0e/ed0e2d33d8a1de5ae748946e54128327.jpg" /><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//856/a7/f7/a7f7fe3930a2e25c59fc0e204743a8a9.jpg" /><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//856/57/0d/570d3969f593c10e73163cd44f09a6f5.jpg" /><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//856/c5/5d/c55d8f6d62a639402132306e238ba951.jpg" /></p>
<p>2019: What to say?</p>
<p>That I absolutely need to reinforce my skills in working the soils, learn to tame the grass competing with the vines. We’ve made some good progress in 2019 but the vines are still struggling to find their way.</p>
<p>Weather wise, it was a hot summer with <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Drought" title="1167">drought</glossary><span>:</span></span></span> yet another small crop. And this time, it seemed like we were going to have something nice based on <glossary term="Budding" title="1166">budding</glossary> in the spring. But many grapes were burned on certain <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcels</glossary> and the others were very, very thirsty. </p>
<p>The results are a very <glossary term="Concentration" title="324">concentrated</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintage</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> In fact, the <glossary term="Concentration" title="324">concentrations</glossary> were getting so high that we put the petal to the metal: I’ve never picked so quickly.</p>
<p>I did not have time to take many photos, here are a few in the evening while working in the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> </p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//822/04/9a/049a266220ff48f30ccfcad08dad72b6.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//822/fb/e3/fbe3d860b3728af2a8e9b8f7b64e3bac.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//822/07/10/07102bd81e2dd0be061a8da0e0ec4060.jpg" /><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//822/a2/d3/a2d35ce8dfae6df0d5c086b7a952411d.jpg" /></p>
<p>Today I'm in the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="254">cellar</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary title="843">racking</glossary> the <glossary title="927">Sauvignons</glossary> and doing a <glossary title="850">remontage</glossary> on the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="799">Pineau d'Aunis</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Yes, it will be a red wine this year, the quality is top-notch.<br />
<br />
Still no rain, so the grapes are hyper<span class="zalup"><span><span>-</span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="324">concentrated</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></span></span> And it's very hot... We're starting very early in the morning, right at the crack of dawn. We've been packing a lot of water, towels and for many of us, jumping into the river after a morning of picking.<br />
<br />
The <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="927">Sauvignons</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary title="478">Gamay</glossary> and <glossary title="799">Pineau d'Aunis</glossary> are picked. Next week, we'll tackle the last of the grapes under a punishing sun.<br />
<br />
My challenge: that my wines be as beautiful as the beautiful young picker in the attached photos!</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Sep_18//b7/28/b728427548005f0750ca4ccc36337692.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Sep_18//95/bb/95bba0eeb4f3c01f4ac6ff8ed34fd356.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Sep_18//88/15/881548dc07f40486adb9d5b9ec24514d.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Sep_18//6e/09/6e09f215791be570314121bacde9b7a3.jpg" /></p>
<p> </p>
<p>After a first week of harvesting, the <glossary title="927">Sauvignon</glossary> and <glossary title="478">Gamay</glossary> is in the cellar.<br />
<br />
I'd predicted a delay in the <glossary title="639">maturities</glossary> of vines that succumbed to the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1135">frost</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> but the <glossary title="927">Sauvignons</glossary> were more stressed by the lack of water in the final stretch of summer: everything is very <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="324">concentrated</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary term="Aromatic" title="120">aromatic</glossary> and of high quality. We decided to not waste any time, because rain was announced.<br />
<br />
We were a large team of pickers in order to cover each surface quickly and to get the grapes in the <glossary title="254">cellar</glossary> nice and fresh. The juices are great, but there will be even less than last year... a sad record to break. And I must really thank the team: they did not miss a single grape!<br />
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The <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="366">Côt</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary title="217">Cabernet</glossary> and "Pineaux Mêlés" are not ripe as of this writing, with very high <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="71">acidities</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Everything is currently on hold, as the rain finally arrived. I think it will help re-invigorate them. It's not that warm out and there is wind, which limits the risk of rot, so that's good.<br />
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The <glossary title="740">old vines</glossary> Pineaux Mêlés <glossary title="1135">frosted</glossary> really bad, and while some <glossary title="1138">bunches</glossary> came out of them, it's not enough to make a <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="363">cuvée</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> If I find a solution I will let you know.</p>
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