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producer profile
<p>In an era of increasingly homogenized, post-terroir, natural-ish wines that could be from anywhere, it's refreshing to find young producers still drawn to what originally attracted us to the movement decades ago: a voracious dedication to terroir and expressing it its purest vinous form. This was was our first and foremost impression after visiting Nicoletta Pecorelli and Francesco Ferreri on Pantelleria in November 2023. We'd tasted the Tanca Nica wines and were already believers, but can now confirm the young couple's passion and dedication being as unprecedented as it is ambitious. </p>
<p>Before diving into the intricacies of the Tanca Nica project itself, let us provide some context on Pantelleria and its viticulture. A tiny island and Italian territory 55 miles southwest of Sicily and only 35 miles from Tunisia, it's most famous for its DOC capers and passito sweet wines made from Zibibbo grapes. While long known to be capable of making some of the world's most unique and captivating wines, the weather conditions do not make it easy: because of constant Sirocco winds year round, the vines must be trained in gobelets just a few centimeters off the ground to avoid breakage.</p>
<p>Despite being smack-dab in the Mediterranean, the island lacks any natural water resources and sees little rain; in such, circular basins -concas in Pantescan dialect- are dug around each gobelet to retain winter rainfall. A technique called 'pizzicatura', which lasts from bud break to flowering, involves manually breaking off the taller vine shoots to make sure that the vines grow within the concas, which then serve a double purpose of water retention and additional protection from the Sirocco winds. Finally, since vegetal competition is so intense, vines must be planted at low density with traditional plantations of two meters by two meters. This training system, dubbed Alberello Pantesco, dates back thousands of years and is so unique it actually received UNESCO world heritage status a few years ago! </p>
<p>World heritage or not, maintaining these vines requires painstaking manual labor for very little wine. Francesco estimates it takes 800 hours of work per hectare, with yields averaging out to _____. This is somewhat offset with the fact that Zibibbo is one of the only varieties capable of bringing second-growth grapes to full maturity, but not by much. Most of the vines are very old, and its not uncommon for their roots to have dug over six meters into the mother-rock to find their nutrients. For those willing to put in the time, effort and passion to see it through, the concentration and flavor in the grapes is exceptional. Sadly, it's no surprise that few if any are still up for the challenge. At its height, 5000 hectares of vines were planted on Pantelleria's 32.5 square miles; down to about 150 today, a good amount of those vines remain abandoned.</p>
<p>Ok, four paragraphs in and we can finally start talking about Nicoletta Pecorelli and Francesco Ferreri! Francesco is a Pantescan native and Nicoletta is from Sardinia; the two met in Verona at enology school, travelled together to make wine in New Zealand before returning to Pantelleria to start Tanca Nica in 2015. Francesco is from a long line of fisherman, but got the wine-bug in his teens working his family land with his father and grandfather. He'd always felt to desire to return to Pantelleria, but is quick to point out it wouldn't be possible without Nicoletta: </p>
<p><em>"Tanca Nica is OUR project, not mine. Without her this would never gotten off the ground or continue to exist."</em></p>
<p>Ferreri and Pecorelli work three hectares spread over 15 parcels within nine contradas. 50 ares are from Francesco's family, the rest is rented from locals who don't want to see the vines go abandoned and an increasing amount of wealthy foreigners whose summer homes came with nearby vines. As they are the only estate actively looking for new parcels, it is actually common for them to be offered plots to rent. The couple has used this to their advantage, trading off and dropping certain areas in search of the very best terroirs. Most are isolated by woods and were abandoned before they took them over. As Francesco explained during our visit, Pantelleria is tiny island but has an incredible diversity in soil compositions, micro-climates and elevation levels. The Tanca Nica project is an exploration and celebration of this diversity. Francesco elaborates:</p>
<p><em>"Every year we seek to capture the grapes’ life in the glass, in all of its phases (with regular tasting) until we put it in bottle. Especially regarding the cru wines, we do not add a gram of sulfur, not because we are dogmatic in this discourse, but because we would like the wine to express all of itself with as much aroma as possible. For this reason, the cru wines feel tight and closed off for a longer period than the other wines, needing at least a year in bottle (a thing we cannot do because we are still not able to keep in our storage to overcome the summer heat - but it is our objective for the future.)"</em></p>
<p>In Pantescan dialect, the term "Tanca Nica" means small, hilly land cultivated and arranged in terraces. Each terraced parcel -tanca in Pantescan- is vinified individually, including second growth fruit, with various amounts of maceration -one day to one week- depending on the circumstances of the vintage. Most are pre-destined to go into Tanca Nica's largest production, "Soki Soki". This 100% Zibibbo is sourced from 11 tancas averaging 30 ares each. It serves as a snapshot of the island's most common soil composition: volcanic sands of pumice and lapilli known locally as Soki Soki. The wine pops with bright fruit and aromatics and is made to be accessible in its youth. </p>
<p>At a whopping 1000 bottles, the second largest production is a cuvée called "Terra Forte". Produced from a single parcel, the "terra forte" soils are composed of sandy clay from degraded basalt and obsidian. The result is a much more powerful, structured expression of Zibibbo that, while keeping the grapes' trademark aromatic qualities, is more serious and age-worthy. </p>
<p>Next are four cru wines, all single tanca expressions of Zibibbo:</p>
<p><em>"Since 2019, we have focused our attention on four plots which, due to their characteristics, we consider the "Grand Crus" of the island. This type of work can only be done if the soil is alive, as the microfauna interacts with the roots of the plants in a symbiotic exchange and are able to read the characteristics of the soil perfectly. To keep the wine as lively and faithful as possible to the territory, we don't add even a gram of sulfur dioxide. The label colors highlight the color of the terrain profile:</em></p>
<p><em>- <strong>Yellow label (from the Cufurà district)</strong>: a plot made up of yellow pumice. The wine is always delicate in its aromas and structure, more immediate than the other three labels. The scents reflect the maquis: alyssum and wild thyme.</em></p>
<p><em>- <strong>Gray label (from in the Rukia district)</strong>: a plot made up of gray pumice with a layer of volcanic mother rock just 40 cm deep. Among the crus, it is the one that needs the most time to express itself: at the beginning it is reduced, with a slight mouse, but immediately after the summer it becomes complex and acquires an incredible depth. This is the windiest district of the island and I like to think that this is also felt in the wine.</em></p>
<p><em>- <strong>Red label (from the San Marco district):</strong> a plot made up of red sand rich in iron and aluminium. The wine naturally tends to oxidize, so much so that it can seem like a raisin base (that is, a dry raisin wine without sugar). Grapes that ripen near the sea, the wine absorbs all the summer heat.</em></p>
<p><em>- <strong>Black label (from the Khaggiar district):</strong> a plot made up of black basalt, a very hard and heavy rock. The wine resembles the red label, but is much more austere."</em></p>
<p>Pecorelli and Ferreri also produce a micro-cuvée of Catarratto called "Kaffefi", the name of the contrada where 40 to 80 year old vines grow within ____ tancas. It is the only white wine that sees no maceration, though it does go through a long, 24 hour press to give it extra structure. </p>
<p>Next in the lineup is "Firri Firri", a clairet-style blend of 85% Cataratto 10% Pignatello and 5% Inzolia. It's principally sourced from a single parcel, though random vines of Pignoletto are co-planted in many of the tancas and end up in the final wine.</p>
<p>Only one "real" red wine is made, and in tiny quantities. It's called "Nivuro Nostrale", and is made by vinifying 97 plants (count em!) of 100+ year old Pignatello and Alicante. These grapes come from "the most intimate and least known part of our island." </p>
<p>Two petillants naturels are produced if the vintage permits. "Ghirbi Bianco" is 100% second-growth Zibbibo grapes and "Ghirbi Rosato" is from seven autochthonous varieties that grow under the walls of the terraces: Catarrato, Alicante, Pignatello, Inzolia imperiale and Inzolia Minuta, Grillo and Carignan.</p>
<p><em>"Vinifying them as an ancestral method is a way to enhance these grapes which are often not harvested. They are not produced every year."</em></p>
<p>Finally, this is Pantelleria so there has to be a passito! Dubbed "Passulata", Francesco describes it as:<em> "the wine that best represents Pantelleria. Making this wine is an immeasurable act of love towards our island which, like Nature, knows how to be very generous, but also hard, tiring, unpredictable and ever-changing, different with each season."</em></p>
<p>Over the years, we have had the honor of working with some of the most innovative and trailblazing producers in Europe. In our estimation, what binds them has always been a passion for expressing a sense of place, with organics, hand-harvesting, native yeasts and minimal intervention serving as tools, a means to an end. As the promotion of natural wine continues devolving into big business, marketing gimmicks and pigeon-holing a one-funk-fits-all visual/flavor profile, it's both reassuring and a breath of fresh air to meet a couple as dedicated, humble, passionate and visionary as Nicoletta and Francesco.</p>
<p><em>"We don't do this for fame or recognition: we do it for the island. None of the rules I learned in school applied to Pantelleria. I didn't like Zibbibo at first because it didn't conform to what I'd been taught. I had to learn everything with the help of my father and hands-on experience. This liberated me and forged a path that made me love the grape and its place on Pantelleria. We know our wines are expensive, but we promise this is not speculation and nothing else but the estimated value of our work." </em></p>
<p>For even more in-depth information and photos, please read our visit recap from November, 2023 (coming soon)</p>
producer profile
<p>Wine has been made in Salvatore Marino’s family for generations; growing up, his grandfather and father produced bulk wine in a large facility within the town of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Pachino" title="1480">Pachino</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Always a bon vivant, Marino’s love for good food begat a passion for seeking delicious bottles from <glossary term="Sicily" title="951">Sicily</glossary> and beyond. It also made him dream of starting a project of his own. No stranger to <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Viticulture" title="1103">viticulture</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> Salvatore knew he could start farming vines from his wife Stefania’s family. But before branching out on his own, he felt the need to learn how to properly run a cellar.</p>
<p>Marino had learned how to make wine with his father, but found those bulk product riddled with defects, namely <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Brettanomyces" title="195">brett</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> For many years, Salvatore cut his teeth working at huge wineries in California, <glossary term="Puglia" title="836">Puglia</glossary> and <glossary term="Sicily" title="951">Sicily</glossary> to further his knowledge of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Enology" title="422">enology</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> </p>
<p><em>“I never liked the wines I made at those places. But you can can learn so much, so fast in those environments. The large scale gives you perspective.”</em></p>
<p>With a decade of big winery experience behind him, Salvatore launched his eponymous <glossary term="Estate" title="427">estate</glossary> in 2017. Today he works 15 <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> of land divided into five sectors, all close to each other and the town of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Pachino" title="1480">Pachino</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> A firm believer in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Polyculture" title="815">polyculture</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> seven of the 15 <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> are planted in vines, with the rest planted in fruit trees, wheat, other cereals, table grapes and much more. Some of the land is from Stefania’s family, some is rented and some Marino has purchased. The soils consist of medium to heavy <glossary term="Clay" title="301">clay</glossary> with <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Limestone" title="596">limestone</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> planted in <glossary term="Gobelet" title="497">bush-trained</glossary> vines wrapped up on pickets to avoid damage from the region’s constant winds. Salvatore and Stefania do everything themselves, save for some seasonal help around <glossary term="Pruning" title="834">pruning</glossary> and <glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvest</glossary> seasons. </p>
<p>Though he still has access to the family winery, Salvatore does not feel comfortable making his wines there because he finds it too big and would rather be closer to the vines. In 2021, he purchased a four <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectare</glossary> property in the countryside where he is in the early stages of building a new winery, including a <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> stocking room, tasting room and guest rooms. The <glossary term="Cantina" title="233">cantina</glossary> is surrounded by <glossary term="Limestone" title="596">limestone</glossary> rich <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Coteau" title="345">coteaux</glossary><span>:</span></span></span> Salvatore has planted grafts of <glossary term="Nero d'Avola" title="714">Nero d’Avola</glossary> and <glossary term="Pignatello" title="797">Pignatello</glossary> and plans to plant <glossary term="Grecanico" title="1322">Grecanico</glossary> in the near future. </p>
<p>Three wines are currently produced. The bianco is 100% <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Catarratto" title="249">Catarratto</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> and comes from a 0.5 <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectare</glossary> vineyard planted by Salvatore in 2016 along with a 10 year old <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcel</glossary> of rented vines. It <glossary term="Maceration" title="610">macerates</glossary> five days before <glossary term="Fermentation" title="441">fermenting</glossary> in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Stainless Steel" title="986">stainless steel</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> then <glossary term="Aging" title="74">ages</glossary> in <glossary term="Concrete" title="325">concrete</glossary> <glossary term="Vat/Tank" title="1140">tanks</glossary> before <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Bottling" title="185">bottling</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> <glossary term="Catarratto" title="249">Catarratto</glossary> is actually a bit of a rarity in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Pachino" title="1480">Pachino</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> as <glossary term="Grillo" title="511">Grillo</glossary> has gained traction throughout <glossary term="Sicily" title="951">Sicily</glossary>; most of Marino’s contemporaries are exclusively replanting <glossary term="Marsala" title="633">Marsala</glossary>’s native white grape. In fact, only four producers currently cultivate <glossary term="Catarratto" title="249">Catarratto</glossary> and Salvatore is the only one focusing on new plantations.</p>
<p><em>“I like </em><glossary term="Grillo" title="511"><em>Grillo</em></glossary><em>, but I do not feel it is optimal for the </em><glossary term="Terroir" title="1026"><em>terroirs</em></glossary><em> of </em><glossary term="Pachino" title="1480"><em>Pachino</em></glossary><em>. My grandfather told me when I was young that </em><glossary term="Catarratto" title="249"><em>Catarratto</em></glossary><em> was the white grape for this area. I always remembered that.”</em></p>
<p>The <glossary term="Rosé/Rosato" title="871">rosato</glossary> is 100% <glossary term="Syrah" title="1001">Syrah</glossary> and a <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Direct Press" title="392">direct press</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary term="Fermentation" title="441">fermented</glossary> and <glossary term="Aging" title="74">aged</glossary> in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Stainless Steel" title="986">stainless steel</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p>Finally, the rosso is 95% <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Nero d'Avola" title="714">Nero d’Avola</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> 5% <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Pignatello" title="797">Pignatello</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> It <glossary term="Maceration" title="610">macerates</glossary> only six days, <glossary term="Fermentation" title="441">ferments</glossary> in <glossary term="Stainless Steel" title="986">stainless steel</glossary> then <glossary term="Aging" title="74">ages</glossary> in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Concrete" title="325">concrete</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Salvatore’s ultimate goal with this wine is to be versatile with a meal (we can confirm it’s very good with fish) but also something you’d want to keep drinking after you’re done eating or even on its own.</p>
article
<p>When I saw Alain Coudert from Clos de la Roilette’s calling my phone last Saturday morning, I didn’t pick up. It’s abnormal for a vigneron to call over the weekend in regards to business, but I figured he wanted to talk about an upcoming pickup, a label registration or something of the sort. I was also rammed in a car full of childhood friends road-tripping for the holiday weekend; I let the call go to voicemail, deciding to give Alain a ring when we got to our destination. Then came a text from my mother asking me to call her: that meant bad news. Four days later and I’m still shell-shocked over Julie’s passing. Having been at her house less than a month ago, Julie had exuded so much LIFE over the course of that evening that her disappearance still feels impossible.</p>
<p>Where do I start with Julie? The beginning? She started making wines under her own name in 2009, but had entered our collective orbit a few years prior. Her name was on everyone’s lips circa 2007 as the new talent to look out for. So Joe and Denyse decided they had to meet her, visiting Julie while she still ran the cellar at Terres des Chardons in the Costières de Nimes. An instant connection was made and it was agreed Louis/Dressner would import the wines. The following summer, Denyse remembers seeing Julie in the Beaujolais with Yvon Métras: she had visited the land that would become her Fleurie parcels <strong>(1) </strong>but nothing was finalized.</p>
<p>After securing the land in the Beaujolais and working it less than a full year, Louis/Dressner imported Julie’s first eponymous wines despite what felt like astronomical pricing at the time coupled with the complicated -now increasingly common- full-bodied nature of the solar 2009 vintage. I remember the first cuvées of 2009 "En Remont"<strong>(2)</strong> and “Vieilles Vignes” gathering dust on the shelf at Arlequin Wine Merchant where I worked in San Francisco. Beaujolais was having a moment around then, but that moment was intricately linked to cheaper pricing and the distinctly crystalline, semi-carbonic “light” style the region was known for. Actually, critics loved the 2009 vintage, they felt it was an achievement to have produced such ripe, big wines. We felt it was a pity that a wine we loved for its lightness and freshness was evaluated through the wrong criteria: it was not a vintage of our liking.</p>
<p>LDM pressed on with the fantastic 2010’s, and by 2011 -the first of many vintages Julie felt obliged to blend her cuvées into a one-off wine, in this case “Carioca”<strong>(3)</strong>- a fanaticism of sorts was building around her. Julie’s star would continue to rise, and by the mid 2010’s she had earned her rank as a cult producer amongst a small but dedicated subset of drinkers. Usually I don't care about this type of thing much, but with Julie's wines I began to notice something different. It seemed like savvy drinkers understood and valued her efforts and vision, could TASTE it. </p>
<p>As far as I’m concerned, Julie was instrumental in fomenting a paradigm shift in how natural wine is approached. Producers like Julie forced companies like ours to re-align our values on, well, value. Louis/Dressner has always been about the underdog: independent vignerons from small or unknown regions making real, honest wine. For most of the company’s existence, that usually meant a “bang for your buck” due to the producer and/or region’s lack of notoriety. But vigneronnes like Julie Balagny changed the tide: value didn’t have to be economically tied to a famous region or a famous vigneron anymore, but to the VALUE of hard work, of vision, passion and qualities bordering on artistic expression. More often than not, these producers were outsiders to the region they made wine in: second-career “neo-vignerons/vigneronnes” working hyper-artisanally (in Julie’s case with zero mechanization) with no employees, requiring countless hours more work in the vines and cellar. </p>
<p>There were of course precursors to Julie. But her arrival on the scene at the dawn of the information era, a time when consumers could meticulously geek out on every aspect of a vigneron’s work, was serendipitous and integral in getting a lot of people hooked on seeking out similar wines.</p>
<p>I guess what I’m trying to say is that a lot of what we do now, or at least the way I interpret what we do, goes back to representing a human’s passion and humanity through their wine. Is this something we can actually succeed in as a company? Knowing Julie so well, I could taste the good, the bad, the chaos, the laughs, the bare-bones EVERYTHING, the pseudo-commune that was her house, even her crazy dogs, chickens and sheep running around the yard and vineyards... Are these things someone who's never met her can taste? I don't know, but I'd posit that this type of <em>je ne sais quoi</em> is what drew so many to seek out her cuvées in the first place. Julie made me look for these qualities in other producers, seek them out even.</p>
<p>Ok, I’ve been going on for a while now and barely broached Julie as a person. What can I say, Julie Balagny was one of a kind, always marching to the beat of her own polyrhythmic drum. Born in an aristocratic, well off Parisian family, she eschewed modern life and luxury for peasantry, the country-side, farm work. She lived a bare-bones, rustic and quasi-off the grid lifestyle. She was constantly brimming with restless energy and ideas. She lived in total chaos, and more then once the hectic energy she emitted and surrounded herself with made me feel like the mark of a prank tv-show or like I was making a cameo in a bizarro episode of the Beaujolais Real World <strong>(4)</strong>. </p>
<p>The wackiness really ramped up when Julie moved to Romanèche-Thorins in 2015. Prior to living there, our visits with her tended to be one-on-one, more classic: a meet and greet, a tour of the vines, tasting wines in the cellar then a dinner somewhere. But, with the exception of summer 2015 when we visited her newly acquired Beaujolais and Moulin-à-Vent plots <strong>(5)</strong>, all visits to the Romanèche house meant being SUCKED INTO THE VORTEX. There were of course the aforementioned dogs, chickens and sheep freely roaming the yard, often driving my mother's dog Zaggy completely bonkers <strong>(6)</strong>. More memorable were the ever-revolving cast of employees, seasonal workers, friends, weirdos and wasteoids that became the de-facto accompaniment to our visits. If you’d entered that courtyard enough times <strong>(7)</strong>, you knew you were going to be talking to chain-smoking randos knocking back glass after glass of Gamay <strong>(8)</strong>.</p>
<p>And of course there was always Julie, presiding over the chaos like nothing could be more normal. Cheeks red, hair blonde, eyes blazing blue and smiling at you like the lost long friend she hasn't seen in ages. Within minutes, you’d be deep in a conversation that would go on for hours, constantly re-enforced with another bottle, countless rolled cigarettes and, only after I insisted and because time had gotten away from her, a haphazard, improvised meal thrown together hours later than it should have been <strong>(9)</strong>.</p>
<p>There was always a lot to talk about. The usual vigneron blah blah (the weather, the vintage...) was only a formality with Julie, a quick box to check off so we could get to the good stuff. Sometimes it was hard to focus on her because a sheep was bumping its head into your leg. Or a very intoxicated shirtless man, badly scraped and bruised from drunkenly crashing his scooter hours earlier was berating you for not wearing a face-mask when bicycling in New York City (he'd never been and this was pre-pandemic). Or an equally intoxicated sommelier rolling in the dirt telling a sheep he loved them. Or an even more intoxicated sommelier drunkenly cutting up cucumbers and tomatoes, putting them in his glass, pouring and drinking a Balagny wine in it before I confiscated it (ok, that was the same sommelier telling the sheep he loved it, here is his picture).</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//736/8e/c6/8ec6df573478a63c1948ee247ee8f24f.jpg" /></p>
<p>Julie's house could sometimes feel like a haven for lost souls. Yet just as often you’d feel a raw energy, an incubator for a new generation of rural youth forging their own path. In both cases, it came from a place of utmost generosity and open-mindedness on Julie’s part. Most of the people I met at her table found inspiration working with her, whether there for seasonal work or deciding they wanted to become a vigneron in their early 50's and randomly apprenticing with her knowing nothing about natural wine. For the full-time crew, itself a rag-tag group of misfits, there was a feeling of belonging, a leftist, ecologically militant oasis in an increasingly far-right and angry rural France. </p>
<p>The most recurrent character in the last few years, one whom I’ve grown to adore, is Sylvain Chanudet, an ex-vigneron and the personified quintessence of a Beaujolois. After a very complicated period in his life, Julie had let Sylvain stay with her for a bit. He never left, becoming a permanent house-mate, adviser, pro-bono employee and even selling Julie some of the grapes he continues to meticulously farm despite not making wine anymore. Over the last few years, a visit with Julie meant a visit with Sylvain, always a treat for me. Their bond and friendship was so clear, so deep and powerful. I can’t imagine how much pain he must be in right now.</p>
<p>My last visit with Julie was less than a month ago, on Thursday June 8th. I got to the house around 6pm: after accidentally startling Julie who hadn’t heard me come in, a group of three young men arrived and quickly hunkered around the outdoor table to smoke cigarettes and drink Gamay. These were Julie’s employees, including Brice aka Docteur Briçou (you may recognize that name from the Moulin-à-Vent cuvée <strong>(10)</strong>) and two other guys whose name I didn’t catch. They were looking at how to manually fix a part of a 1970’s chariot the team use to till the vines; replacement parts haven’t been available to purchase for roughly 45 years. At some point a young woman swung by for no perceptible reason (though I have a hunch), had a few glasses and cigarettes and left.</p>
<p>Julie and I then tasted a recently bottled 2022 called "François", of which she gave me the back story. In 2020, she’d made a one-off wine called “Françoise” <strong>(11)</strong> from a plot of Beaujolais fruit her friend ended up still having when a contract didn’t go through at the last minute. In 2022, a young vigneron had committed suicide just before the harvest and his family was looking to sell the grapes. Julie felt it would have been wrong to call them herself (she didn’t want to take advantage of a terrible situation), but when it was them who reached out she decided to buy some. Julie named the cuvée "François" <strong>(12)</strong> and asked her label artist Delphine to make a man bringing flowers to his Françoise. Two one-offs loaded with symbolism.</p>
<p>We then tried various 2022’s from barrels, some of which had tangible amounts of sugar that still needed to ferment, others that were to be bottled soon (I am unaware if this occurred in the time between my visit and her passing). When we re-emerged from the cellar, Sylvain Chanudet and Tristesse, an older shirtless man who seemed very smily for having the nickname “sadness” (probably the point) had joined the other employees for some smokes and wine before they all headed off to get more work done in the vines.</p>
<p>That left Julie and I. Incredibly, this was destined to be our one and only <em>tête à tête</em> conversation in over a decade of friendship. Without the clique, we talked undistracted for hours-over a few bottles of course. She brought me up to speed with the craziness of dealing with her father’s inheritance and what it meant for the future of the estate. How she was planning on expanding her négociant line with grapes from Sylvain to help her have some earlier releases and keep things financially afloat. How she loved my “Sons of Winearchy” t-shirt <strong>(13)</strong> and wanted me get her one. We dove into her utopian vision of work and what she still hoped to accomplish: a true symbiosis of nature, beast and man coexisting and taking care of one another. I didn’t take very many notes but here are two quotes from that conversation:</p>
<p><em>"I work on a human scale with human beings."</em></p>
<p><em>"We're not business people, we're ecologists.”</em></p>
<p>She talked about giving her employees a chance to make their own wines while still having the security of employment with her, to encourage them to work well and to know they have a support system. In fact, her long-term goal was to create a cave cooperative with her employees, Sylvain Chanudet and a few other vignerons: sharing equipment, helping each other with manual labor, building a communal cellar so smaller upstarts wouldn't have to take on the financial pressure of building their own cellars… Going back to older pieces I’d written about her, Julie was saying much of the same over a decade ago in January 2012:</p>
<p><em>“I think it will remain as is in size. As I mentioned earlier, the real evolution I hope to achieve will come from working with livestock and the woods. If there were to be an expansion, I'd rather do it to help a young vigneron get started. There would be room to assist each other, to share tools, know-how and manual labor.”</em></p>
<p>From this conversation, it finally clicked as to why Julie constantly surrounded herself with all these people, why she was so zen with her open door policy. Anyone and everyone was welcome. This wasn’t because of boredom or loneliness, this was a vision, a way to live… A true cooperative space where anyone was welcome! </p>
<p>Finally, we talked about how she was feeling great overall, how she was really embracing and enjoying life in her 40’s and that it was something I should look forward to. Putain…</p>
<p>As the sun was setting, some of the guys came back, including Sylvain with a bunch of goat cheese from Tristesse’s friend. The other guys left; Sylvain had eaten already but kept us company while Julie prepared a quick meal: salad and cherries from her garden, potted<em> Poulet en Crème</em> and Tristesse’s goat cheese. On the cheese, Sylvain had this to say:</p>
<p><em>“All I need is some of this, a piece of saucisson and a glass of Gamay in the morning. I’m good to go”.</em></p>
<p>The three of us talked for many more hours: about the state of the world, about the Beaujolais, about a bunch of shit that would be too long to transcribe here. Julie started putting on music, which led us listening to Suprême N.T.M (a french rap crew) (<strong>14)</strong> and N.W.A , leading a philosophical discussion of how rap lyrics gave a voice to the oppressed, a way to speak truth to the injustices inflicted upon them. Sylvain admitted it wasn't really his thing sonically; he preferred Toto <strong>(15)</strong>, whom he’d seen live in the 80’s and who he felt were very talented musicians. At some point a Mozart sonata came on. Chaos!</p>
<p>Before leaving, Julie gave me a picnic basket full of breakfast goodies and an unlabeled magnum for Kewin Descombes’ 10 year anniversary party <strong>(16)</strong>, which I drank with Jules Métras, Elisa Guerrin, Laura Lardy and a young woman from California apprenticing at Domaine Chapel who was hoping to visit Julie at some point. As I was about to drive off, Julie called for me in the night, running towards the car to hand me the notebook I’d forgotten at the table. It was the last time I’d see her.</p>
<p>That night, I felt like we were on the verge of something. Like any truly amazing conversation, it can feel like you’ve figured everything out, that your ideas can change the world. Julie was radiant with joy and energy, smiling, laughing, cheering us on. We did the same. At one point I felt the presence of my usual Beaujolais companion Denyse (aka my mom) and my deceased father at the table with us, smiling fondly on these three individuals from wildly different backgrounds united over good wine and good people. I got emotional. I told myself: “this is why we fucking do what we do.” It was by far the best visit I’d ever had with Julie; she seemed at the apex of what she was doing, ready to push things to a whole other level. On my end, I left invigorated and re-inspired for the future: my own, my company’s, Julie’s. The visit felt like a gift, a sign of great things to come. Yet just a few weeks later I find myself forced to re-interpret those feelings.</p>
<p>The magic of Julie Balagny can never be emulated or recreated. She was amongst a small group of vignerons/vigneronnes I truly idolize for their eclecticism, irreverence, passion, energy, idiosyncrasy and conviction. Julie forged a community around her, one we’re all so much better off for having been a part of. I won’t try to find a replacement for Julie; instead I’ll look out for those same qualities in those I choose to surround myself with.</p>
<p>Because people like her CAN change the world.</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//736/1c/e5/1ce5d40d2b1f69433fb7c03221633931.jpg" /></p>
<p>***********</p>
<p><strong>(1): Julie in her Fleurie vines with Trevor Kellogg in 2019.</strong></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//736/87/14/871416eddbc32128f5ed30da2cac7aaa.jpg" /></p>
<p>(<b>2</b>)<strong>: a scan of the "En Remont" 2009 label.</strong></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//736/cf/58/cf58eb735fa2bceea84e46833c44595f.jpg" />. </p>
<p><strong>(3) The Carioca 2011 label.</strong></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//736/6c/40/6c40c82cf495d88f05063a105db9cb96.jpg" /></p>
<p><strong>(4): Christmas in summer at Julie Balagny's. Notice all the bottles on the table. </strong></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//736/9a/58/9a58088edfe6f5fac1fa214bd3232251.jpg" /></p>
<p><strong>(5): Julie in her Moulin-à-Vent vines, 2015.</strong><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//736/c1/73/c173f3d97b362623a75f6a231cb029f7.jpg" /></p>
<p><strong>(6) Dogs and sheep driving Zag bonkers.</strong></p>
<p><iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="560" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/7C4QOVQ2dks" title="Balagny Zag Bark" width="320"></iframe></p>
<p><strong>(7): The front yard in Romanèche-Thorins</strong></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//736/e0/d0/e0d014f15aabf250d1b86412201e1b4d.jpg" /></p>
<p><strong>(8): Rolling tobacco and Gamay, staples at Julie's table. Notice the Che Guevara tobacco pouch.</strong></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//736/1e/db/1edb7763a9f917a12d76da3c712e669f.jpg" /></p>
<p><strong>(9): My last haphazard meal with Julie, 2023.</strong></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//736/20/d7/20d762a2ac0347613d1e6d108c1172a2.jpg" /></p>
<p>(10) The Docteur Briçou label </p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//736/b0/07/b007025bc9088e34ef5833280b09f502.jpg" />(11) "Françoise", a one-off cuvée made in 2020 from purchased fruit.</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//736/9b/6d/9b6d36f784775bcb986899d2a01620ec.jpg" /></p>
<p>(12) "François" a one-off cuvée and the only 2022 bottled at the time of my visit. the spiritual succesor to "Françoise".</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//736/6d/21/6d2112da190af1ff5fd61d32653ec948.jpg" /></p>
<p><strong>(13): The Sons of Winearchy designed for our 2015 trade tasting t-shirts.</strong></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//736/3b/c1/3bc1ec3bfd7f3d59fd583334ff82d13b.jpg" /></p>
<p><strong>(14): The music video for Suprême N.T.M's "Laisse Pas Trainer Ton Fils", the song we listened to and one of the best songs in the history of French hip-hop.</strong></p>
<p><iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="404" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/biYdUZXfz9I" title="Suprême NTM - Laisse pas traîner ton fils (Clip officiel)" width="546"></iframe></p>
<p><strong>(15) Toto: they saw the rain down in Africa. Here is a nine minute remix I've been using as a secret weapon in DJ sets for years:</strong></p>
<p><iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="404" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/mDwI0DTqD_A" title="Late Nite Tuff Guy - Bless The Rains (LNTG Epic Journey)" width="539"></iframe></p>
<p><strong>(16): Beaujolais Breakfast.</strong></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//736/84/25/8425295ea61595f6f3017b707cd27e64.jpg" /></p>
<p><strong>(MISC): A pair of Converse gifted to Julie in 2021. It became a running gag that we secured our annual allocation of her wines by bringing her a pair, as they are much cheaper in the United States. </strong></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//736/f7/77/f777072acf89af35aa27cd350b5337ef.jpg" /></p>
<p><strong>(MISC): Julie driving us to her Fleurie parcels in 2019.</strong></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//736/5e/7a/5e7a6c1be9eb1d6c8bdc84357266b45f.jpg" /></p>
<p><strong>(MISC): a whirlwind of dogs and sheep encircling Denyse Louis in 2015.</strong></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//736/86/d1/86d10a3749622348cb281090e51ebc08.jpg" /></p>
<p><strong>(MISC): The label for the 2017 one-off "Docteur Buchaille Présente Ordinaire". That vintage, Julie's microscopic yields forced her to blend her Moulin-à-Vent grapes with her Beaujolais grapes. Inspired by her amazing time in California following her invite to Brumaire in Oakland, she decided to immortalize this mashup by naming the cuvée after the Oakland wine bar Ordinaire (the joke being that it is anything but ordinary). She also included the whale tattoo Ordinaire owner Bradford Taylor has and Keven Clancy, our partner and friend at Farm Wine Imports, front and center of the label (that's him with the glasses). </strong></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//736/1b/be/1bbe24b29bd36dbd2d3a24436ca87d1e.jpg" /></p>
<p><strong>(MISC): Le label for "Bella Ciao", the other 2017 cuvée in which Julie blended all of her Fleurie fruit into one wine.</strong></p>
<p> </p>
<p><strong>From wikipedia: "Bella ciao" is an Italian protest folk song from the late 19th century, originally sung by the mondina workers in protest against the harsh working conditions in the paddy fields of Northern Italy.</strong></p>
<p><strong>It is widely assumed that the mondina song was modified and adopted as an anthem of the Italian resistance movement by the partisans who opposed Nazism and fascism, and fought against the occupying forces of Nazi Germany, who were allied with the fascist and collaborationist Italian Social Republic between 1943 and 1945 during the Italian Civil War. However, historians argue that there is little to no evidence that Italian partisans actually sang the song.</strong></p>
<p><strong>Versions of "Bella ciao" continue to be sung worldwide as a hymn of freedom and resistance.</strong></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//736/d6/28/d6280abe88edbb0492172e6e20e9c50e.jpg" /></p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>
<p><strong>(MISC): a video I recorded of Julie grabbing a salad in her backyard for our last dinner. I posted it on social media, to which she responded: <em>Ainsi va la Vie!</em>" ("such is life!")</strong></p>
<p><iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="560" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/N9KZIbKr1XI" title="Julie in her backyard" width="320"></iframe></p>
<p> </p>
producers visit
<p><em><strong>Words and photos by Jules Dressner. </strong></em></p>
<p>This winter, we were able to visit Thomas Puechavy for the first time. After greeting us at his home in Nazelles-Négron, we took the 17 minute car ride to the village of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vouvray" title="1121">Vouvray </glossary></span></span>to visit his vines. I sat up front with Thomas, who I'd only met minutes prior, along with his two friends Raf and Martin. It was a fun ride; Thomas is like me, Franco/American, but grew up his entire life in Paris. Raf is French but lives in London and Martin is German. Both were in France to help Thomas <glossary term="Pruning" title="834">prune</glossary> before spending the weekend at the various wine fairs around <glossary term="Saumur" title="919">Saumur</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Angers" title="104">Angers</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> </p>
<p>Everyone spoke English, and we discussed the VERY REAL connection between musicians/music lovers who are also really into wine. You see, Thomas' first life was largely spent making music and touring with the band Moriarty. It was during extensive bouts on the road that he caught the wine bug. Raf and Martin originally met him through music, and they too are now completely enamored with wine through Thomas.</p>
<p><em>"Both reward an obsessive nature."</em></p>
<p>After a beautiful drive, we'd arrived to the village of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vouvray" title="1121">Vouvray</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> From a small dirt path, we walked onto an open field that quickly gave way to a large plateau of vineyards. </p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//977/24/3b/243bfddfbd2feb0066a06035bbab18f8.jpg" /><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//977/1f/f7/1ff7d1ee44fea92a7b40476c12cc0494.jpg" /><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//977/f1/9d/f19d29bb11e00e95b9c86670aa2b5ed8.jpg" /></p>
<p>Thomas explained that this plateau is shared with Huet and Foreau. Some neighbors! The soils are <glossary term="Clay" title="301">clay</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Limestone" title="596">limestone</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> but this particular area is very light in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Clay" title="301">clay</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> making for exceptional drainage and imparting tons of <glossary term="Minerality" title="662">minerality</glossary> to the wines. Puechavy's vines are spread amongst many <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcels</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> the youngest 25 and the oldest in their 80's. All in all, Thomas farms 3.5 <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> spread over multiple <glossary term="Plot" title="1133">plots</glossary> and two <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Lieu-Dit" title="594">lieu-dits</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> all within the same plateau. </p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//977/2d/27/2d27739fe37966ea08df58e8f3fff800.jpg" /><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//977/09/59/09595cb681f924ef3bef9c020c8aa173.jpg" /></p>
<p>The vines had been worked <glossary term="Conventional Farming" title="331">conventionally</glossary> prior to Thomas' arrival in 2018 and are currently in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Conversion" title="332">organic conversion</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> So far he's been very careful with the soil, working it only superficially and very lightly at that.</p>
<p><em>"I worry there are still some roots at the superficial level after years of intensive </em><glossary term="Conventional Farming" title="331"><em>conventional viticulture</em></glossary><em>."</em></p>
<p>Thomas is also looking into <glossary term="Cover Crop" title="1255">cover-crops</glossary> and various herbal sprays to bring vigor back to the soils. </p>
<p><em>"I'm pretty lucky. Huet and Foreau work </em><glossary term="Biodynamic" title="160"><em>biodynamically</em></glossary><em> and </em><glossary term="Organic" title="746"><em>organically</em></glossary><em> and are my only big neighbors. We're even in a counsel together to promote </em><glossary term="Biodiversity" title="1162"><em>biodiversity</em></glossary><em> in </em><glossary term="Vouvray" title="1121"><em>Vouvray</em></glossary><em>." </em></p>
<p>One major project at the moment is to replant an indigenous tulip that all but disappeared in the area with the rise of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Conventional Farming" title="331">chemical agriculture</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Huet has always been able to maintain them on their land and is now giving them to other growers in the counsel to propagate in their own vineyards.</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//977/f6/ec/f6ec86864bc33c29e6c0a01f7717c8d2.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//977/db/7a/db7a2dc44114263dd7f39a0a3294d245.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//977/23/bc/23bcabd49f5dba952c97c2879550c3a0.jpg" /></p>
<p>While walking through the vines, Thomas also explained how he originally had no intention to work in the <glossary term="Loire Valley" title="602">Loire</glossary> or even to start his own <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Estate" title="427">estate</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p><em>"After finishing my studies, my plan was to go work for someone else, probably somewhere in the south like the </em><glossary term="Languedoc" title="579"><em>Languedoc</em></glossary><em>, and eventually find a little </em><glossary term="Plot" title="1133"><em>plot</em></glossary><em> to make some wine on the side. During an apprenticeship in the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Loire Valley" title="602"><em>Loire</em></glossary><span>,</span></span></span> my boss at the time introduced me to a retiring </em><glossary term="Vigneron/Vignaiolo" title="1089"><em>vigneron</em></glossary><em> who had 10 </em><glossary term="Hectare" title="523"><em>hectares</em></glossary><em> in </em><glossary term="Vouvray" title="1121"><em>Vouvray</em></glossary><em>. His big stipulation was that he DID NOT want his land worked by someone already established in the area. He had some great <glossary term="Terroir" title="1026">terroirs</glossary> but wanted me to take on all 10 </em><glossary term="Hectare" title="523"><em>hectares</em></glossary><em>. That wasn't possible, but I did happen to know two other guys who wanted to start small </em><glossary term="Estate" title="427"><em>estates</em></glossary><em> of their own. We agreed to split the land, and here I am today."</em></p>
<p>From the vines, we headed back to Nazelles-Négron to taste some wines in Thomas' beautiful <glossary term="Tuffeau" title="1053">tuffeau</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> </p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//977/b1/23/b123715932bebed8a0b13c5ee6f41f18.jpg" /></p>
<p>We began in the <glossary term="Barrel" title="142">barrel</glossary> room, tasting the soon to be <glossary term="Bottling" title="185">bottled</glossary> "Rayon Blanc" 2021 and "Les Doyennes" 2020.</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//977/e3/80/e38078ac677273551dc2ebac113bce90.jpg" /><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//977/55/69/556997b9a1830c3df89c95634b019315.jpg" /></p>
<p>Both wines are made in a very straightforward fashion: <glossary term="Direct Press" title="392">direct-pressed</glossary> then <glossary term="Racking/Soutirage" title="843">racked</glossary> to <glossary term="Barrel" title="142">barrel</glossary> to <glossary term="Fermentation" title="441">ferment</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Aging" title="74">age</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> "Rayon Blanc" comes from the <glossary term="Estate" title="427">estate</glossary>'s younger vines and is <glossary term="Aging" title="74">aged</glossary> 14 to 16 months before <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Bottling" title="185">bottling</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> "Les Doyennes" comes from the old vines (60 to 80 years old) and <glossary term="Aging" title="74">ages</glossary> 26 to 28 months before <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Bottling" title="185">bottling</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> </p>
<p>A third wine, a <glossary term="Pétillant Naturel" title="778">pet-nat</glossary> called "Les Turbulants", begins its <glossary term="Fermentation" title="441">fermentation</glossary> in <glossary term="Fiberglass" title="445">fiberglass</glossary> before finishing in bottle. </p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//977/d5/e1/d5e1385670ede41d44ba34ce1136b60e.jpg" /><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//977/b7/c7/b7c7c9d858b9accbfb6ad6fec6497893.jpg" /></p>
<p>We ended the tasting with an <glossary term="Off-Dry" title="736">off-dry</glossary> 2022 from a tiny <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vat/Tank" title="1140">vat</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Thomas wasn't sure what he was going to do with it during the visit, but has since decided to <glossary term="Bottling" title="185">bottle</glossary> it without <glossary term="Sulfites" title="993">sulfites</glossary> with a <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Crown Cap" title="359">crown cap</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> expecting a "perlant" style to develop in the bottle.</p>
<p>After all that hard work, it was lunch time and we finally got to eat at Hervé and Patricia Chardonneau's Le Berlot in <glossary term="Montlouis" title="684">Montlouis</glossary> for the first time! </p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//977/46/a4/46a4ecce12c76f48251490f9a27bef23.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//977/de/d1/ded1c1727412022ab60a0c4ade88a66a.jpg" /></p>
producer profile
<p>Thomas Puechavy was born and raised in Paris. For most of his adult life he played harmonica, accordion and jew's harp in the band Moriarty (while it's possible you've heard of them, they remain a BIG DEAL in France/Europe since their formation in the mid-aughts. Denyse Louis is a fan and thinks you should check out the singer Rosemary's solo stuff…) Like many musicians we know, Thomas fell in love with food and wine during his extensive bouts of touring. In 2016, he decided to take the plunge into wine, studying <glossary term="Viticulture" title="1103">viticulture</glossary> and <glossary term="Enology" title="422">enology</glossary> in <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Amboise" title="100">Amboise</glossary> <span>.</span> </span> </span> His original plan was to work as an apprentice in various regions of France, eventually settling somewhere warm like the <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Languedoc" title="579">Languedoc</glossary> <span>,</span> </span> </span> where he'd work for someone else while comfortably tending a small <glossary term="Plot" title="1133">plot</glossary> of his own.</p>
<p>The first part of this plan worked, sort of. While working in the <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Loire Valley" title="602">Loire</glossary> <span>,</span> </span> </span> Thomas' boss at the time introduced him to a <glossary term="Vigneron/Vignaiolo" title="1089">vigneron</glossary> who owned 10 <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> of land in <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Vouvray" title="1121">Vouvray</glossary> <span>.</span> </span> </span> He was looking to retire and adamant his vines not be worked or purchased by someone already established in the area. It was an interesting proposition, but Thomas was asked to take over all 10 <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> <span>.</span> </span> </span> It was too much on his own; fortunately Puechavy knew of two other upstarts who were looking to start small <glossary term="Estate" title="427">estates</glossary> of their own. The three split the land, and in 2018 Thomas began renting 3.5 <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> in the village of <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Vouvray" title="1121">Vouvray</glossary> <span>, producing his first vintage in 2019.</span> </span> </span></p>
<p>To say Puechavy lucked out with his land is an understatement: these <glossary term="Terroir" title="1026">terroirs</glossary> are as good as it gets. The vines are sandwiched between those of Huet and Foreau, the two legendary, defining <glossary term="Estate" title="427">estates</glossary> of <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Vouvray" title="1121">Vouvray</glossary> <span>.</span> </span> </span> The vines, planted exclusively in <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Chenin Blanc" title="281">Chenin Blanc</glossary> <span>,</span> </span> </span> grow on <glossary term="Clay" title="301">clay</glossary> and <glossary term="Limestone" title="596">limestone</glossary> and are roughly 25 to 80 years old. The specificity of the <glossary term="Terroir" title="1026">terroir</glossary> is that it's much more <glossary term="Limestone" title="596">limestone</glossary> heavy than other parts of <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Vouvray" title="1121">Vouvray</glossary> <span>,</span> </span> </span> resulting in great drainage and unparalleled <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Minerality" title="662">minerality</glossary> <span>.</span> </span> </span> The prior owner worked them <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Conventional Farming" title="331">conventionally</glossary> <span>,</span> </span> </span> so Thomas is in the process of <glossary term="Conversion" title="332">converting</glossary> them to <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Organic" title="746">organics</glossary> <span>.</span> </span> </span></p>
<p>So far he has been very gentle with working the soil, as he does not want to damage roots that may still be at superficial levels after years of <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Conventional Farming" title="331">conventional farming</glossary> <span>.</span> </span> </span> He's also exploring the idea of <glossary term="Cover Crop" title="1255">cover-crops</glossary> and will most certainly replant certain <glossary term="Plot" title="1133">plots</glossary> of very <glossary term="Old Vines" title="740">old vines</glossary> that barely yield fruit. As an aside, it doesn't hurt that Huet and Foreau both have been practicing <glossary term="Organic" title="746">organics</glossary> and <glossary term="Biodynamic" title="160">biodynamics</glossary> for a long time and are Thomas' only neighbors.</p>
<p>Puechavy was also lucky to find a house built next to a large quarry ideal for wine production in Nazelles-Négron. One catch though: while Nazelles is technically within the limits allowed to <glossary term="Vinification" title="1104">vinify</glossary> <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Vouvray" title="1121">Vouvray</glossary> <span>,</span> </span> </span> Thomas lives 500 meters OUTSIDE of the delineated border! The <glossary term="Appellation" title="113">appellation</glossary> being notoriously strict with its zoning (<a href="https://punchdrink.com/articles/montlouis-sur-loire-vs-vouvray-wine-chenin-blanc-battleground/" target="_blank">we recommend reading this article for context</a>), Puechavy is only allowed to label his wines as <glossary term="AOC" title="108">AOC</glossary> <glossary term="Touraine" title="1036">Touraine</glossary> ; in such he's decided to <glossary term="Declassification" title="383">declassify</glossary> them all to <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Vin de France" title="1092">Vin de France</glossary> <span>.</span> </span> </span> It felt like was an unfair disadvantage ar first, but over the years (and in spite of working some of the best <glossary term="Terroir" title="1026">terroirs</glossary> in the <glossary term="Loire Valley" title="602">Loire</glossary> ) he's come to embrace this unique, slightly absurd standing.</p>
<p>Work in the <glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary> is straightforward. Thomas divides the grapes between younger and <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Old Vines" title="740">older vines</glossary> <span>,</span> </span> </span> which are then <glossary term="Direct Press" title="392">direct-pressed</glossary> to <glossary term="Fermentation" title="441">ferment</glossary> and <glossary term="Aging" title="74">age</glossary> in <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Barrel" title="142">barrel</glossary> <span>.</span> </span> </span> From the younger vines, a wine called "Rayon Blanc" is produced, <glossary term="Bottling" title="185">bottled</glossary> 14-16 months after it was <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvested</glossary> <span>.</span> </span> </span> From the <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Old Vines" title="740">old vines</glossary> <span>,</span> </span> </span> a wine called "Les Doyennes" is produced with an extra year of <glossary term="Elevage" title="418">elevage</glossary> in <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Barrel" title="142">barrel</glossary> <span>,</span> </span> </span> <glossary term="Bottling" title="185">bottled</glossary> 26-28 months after <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvest</glossary> <span>.</span> </span> </span> A <glossary term="Pétillant Naturel" title="778">pétillant naturel</glossary> called "Les Turbulants" is also made from the younger vines, partially <glossary term="Fermentation" title="441">fermenting</glossary> in <glossary term="Fiberglass" title="445">fiberglass</glossary> before continuing in bottle. Puechavy lets the wines <glossary term="Spontaneous Fermentation" title="976">ferment naturally</glossary> and does not <glossary term="Filtration" title="447">filter</glossary> or <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Fining" title="449">fine</glossary> <span>.</span> </span> </span> When it comes to <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Sulfites" title="993">S02</glossary> <span>,</span> </span> </span> for the time being he remains pragmatic: the goal is to not use any if possible, but Thomas is not averse to adding <glossary term="Sulfites" title="993">sulfur</glossary> at any point he feels the wines need them. This has varied <glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintage</glossary> to <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintage</glossary> <span>,</span> </span> </span> <glossary term="Cuvée" title="363">cuvée</glossary> to <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Cuvée" title="363">cuvée</glossary> <span>.</span> </span> </span></p>
<p>Having only started in 2019, we cannot wait to see the wines' evolution as the land recovers from its <glossary term="Organic" title="746">organic</glossary> <glossary term="Conversion" title="332">conversion</glossary> and Thomas gains more insight/ experience in the vines and <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary> <span>.</span> </span> </span> The wines are already unmistakably " <glossary term="Vouvray" title="1121">Vouvray</glossary> " and resonant of their fantastic <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Terroir" title="1026">terroir</glossary> <span>.</span> </span> </span> We're not going to bullshit you and say they are in the same league as Foreau or Huet, but connaisseurs should find parallels in the wines' structure. <glossary term="Vin de France" title="1092">VDF's</glossary> like no other!</p>
producer profile
<p>Brother and sister Miriam and Renato Mareschi are first and foremost restaurateurs. Both grew up working in their parents’ restaurant in Ranuccio until it closed in 2006; Miriam ran the front of the house (becoming the sommelier in 1990) while Renato made the pizzas.</p>
<p>Since 2002, Miriam owns and runs the fantastic trattoria Piazzetta del Sole in the medieval town of Farnese. Always encouraging her chefs to meticulously source ingredients, in the late aughts she found herself wanting to do the same with wine. Having become increasingly enamored with <em>vini naturali</em>, by 2010 Miriam served these exclusively. Wanting to offer her customers and excellent house wine, in 2016 she decided to start a small project of her own. Her brother Renato, who’d made wine with his father and grandfather in his youth (Mr. Mareschi produced wine for personal consumption until 1997), joined her and, in 2017, a white wine called "Itinerae" was produced to be served exclusively at Piazzetta del Sole.</p>
<p>This first experience made Renato fall in love with the idea of tending vines and making wine, so he began sourcing as many vineyards as he could to rent and produce Geremi’s first “official” <glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintage</glossary> in 2018. Today, the <glossary term="Estate" title="427">estate</glossary> consists of roughly two <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> of rented <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcels</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> most in the surrounding area of Farnese (home of Miriam’s restaurant) and Ischia di Castro (home of the <glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary>) with a few other <glossary term="Plot" title="1133">plots</glossary> in Montefiacone, a <glossary term="Commune" title="322">commune</glossary> closer to the the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Lake Bolsena" title="173">Bolsena Lake</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p>The wines are made in a small <glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary> in Ischia di Castro that's been in the family for generations. Miriam and Renato inherited it in the 1980's, when the family still made wine for personal consumption from a <glossary term="Plot" title="1133">plot</glossary> they no longer own. With no formal training outside of his time working with his family, Renato’s <glossary term="Vinification" title="1104">vinifications</glossary> are simple and rustic: a nod to the personal consumption winemaking of his past generation while also in line with what he and Miriam like to drink. Almost everything is currently produced in <glossary term="Stainless Steel" title="986">stainless steel</glossary> or <glossary term="Fiberglass" title="445">fiberglass</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vat/Tank" title="1140">tanks</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> though this may change with time. The wines <glossary term="Fermentation" title="441">ferment</glossary> with <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Spontaneous Fermentation" title="976">spontaneous yeasts</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> are never <glossary term="Fining" title="449">fined</glossary> or <glossary term="Filtration" title="447">filtered</glossary> and the only thing added is a small amount of <glossary term="Sulfites" title="993">S02</glossary> during <glossary term="Maceration" title="610">macerations</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Racking/Soutirage" title="843">racking</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> </p>
<p>For more details on each individual wine, please check their descriptions below.</p>
producer profile
<p>Pedecastello, or “foot of the castle”, is a small <glossary term="Viticulture" title="1103">viticultural</glossary> project from Alex della Vecchia. Nestled in the mountains of Tambre, a <glossary term="Commune" title="322">commune</glossary> of Belluno, the <glossary term="Estate" title="427">estate</glossary> has been worked by Alex’s family for over a century. For generations they raised cattle, first for milk and then for meat.</p>
<p>When Alex’s grandfather passed away, he inherited the land with his uncle. They worked a total of three days together before deciding to go separate ways over a fundamental disagreement: Alex wanted to butcher and transform the meat to sell individual cuts and his uncle wanted to sell them whole. At the same time, Alex had been dreaming of making his own wine and began wondering if he could use his part of the property to plant vines.</p>
<p>Shaped by high <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Elevation" title="419">elevation</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> grassy, fertile soils and a cool climate, the region has historically been dedicated to cattle, notably for production of the famed <glossary term="DOP" title="402">DOP</glossary> Piave cheese. <glossary term="Viticulture" title="1103">Viticulture</glossary> remains extremely rare, with roughly 60 <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> planted at the time of this writing.</p>
<p><em>“Making wine in Belluno is 100% a result of climate change. 30 years ago, it would have been way too cold.”</em></p>
<p>Inexperienced but full of conviction, Alex decided to plant a <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectare</glossary> of <glossary term="Pinot Noir" title="805">Pinot Noir</glossary> in 2010. Around this time, he met the late Ernesto Cattel who, in the early years of shaping his Costadilà project, was looking to acquire some cattle. Alex seized the opportunity to collaborate with Ernesto and, hoping to learn how to make wine, began working full-time with Costadilà. As his time at Costadiłà blossomed into head of <glossary term="Viticulture" title="1103">viticulture</glossary> and eventually running the <glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary> after Ernesto’s passing, he kept cultivating his own <glossary term="Pinot Noir" title="805">Pinot Noir</glossary> and lending a helping hand with the cattle.</p>
<p>Alex currently grows two <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> of vines at Pedecastello: the aforementioned <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectare</glossary> of <glossary term="Pinot Noir" title="805">Pinot Noir</glossary> planted in 2010 and another split 50/50 between <glossary term="Bianchetta Trevigiana" title="1141">Bianchetta</glossary> and PIWI (a German, fungal resistant <glossary term="Hybrid" title="532">hybrid grape</glossary>) planted in 2017. The soils, composed of <glossary term="Sand" title="909">sand</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Clay" title="301">clay</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> are very fertile, with <glossary term="Mother Rock" title="690">mother rock</glossary> a full two meters below the <span class="zalup"><span> <glossary term="Topsoil" title="1032">top soil</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Alex does not add <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Cover Crop" title="1255">cover crops</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> but lets grass grow wild and encourages <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Biodiversity" title="1162">biodiversity</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> With an obvious assist from the cattle on hand, manure is used to <glossary term="Fertilizer" title="442">fertilize</glossary> the soils.</p>
<p>Alex has been experimenting with various methods of still and sparkling <glossary term="Vinification" title="1104">vinifications</glossary> but so far has chosen to focus primarily on <glossary term="Methode Ancestrale" title="1311"><em>ancestrale</em></glossary><em> </em>sparklers. While in the same <glossary term="colfondo" title="1382">Col Fondo</glossary> vein as Costadilà (in fact they are made in the same <glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary>), the <glossary term="Terroir" title="1026">terroirs</glossary> and use of <glossary term="Pinot Noir" title="805">Pinot Noir</glossary> distinguish “Pedecastello” as a rounder expression marked by red fruit. Alex <glossary term="Bottling" title="185">bottled</glossary> his first <glossary term="colfondo" title="1382">Col Fondo</glossary> <glossary term="Bianchetta Trevigiana" title="1141">Bianchetta</glossary>/PIWI <glossary term="Blend" title="168">blend</glossary> in 2021 and will continue to do so in future <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintages</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
producers visit
<p><em><strong>Words and photos by Jules Dressner.</strong></em></p>
<p>We've known Joachim Roque for quite a few years now, but this was our first time visiting his <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Estate" title="427">estate</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Fueled by croissants, coffee and a nice view of the Mediterranean, we were ready to go! </p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/5b/25/5b25d76464e006db818797e78c8bd725.jpg" /></p>
<p>Joachim told us he wanted to start the visit in the vines of Saint-André, the village where he lives. Not realizing it was a solid 20 minute drive, we had some time to chat about this sector I'd never visited before. </p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/77/df/77dfe658f31d33d482174eb415048b46.jpg" /></p>
<p>Saint-André is not only where Joachim lives but where he has the majority of his vines. The <glossary term="Terroir" title="1026">terroirs</glossary> here are part of the very broad <glossary term="Côtes du Roussillon" title="376">Côtes du Roussillon</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Appellation" title="113">appellation</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> </p>
<p>The big project of the moment is to build a <glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary> minutes from his house for the 2023 <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintage</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p><em>“It’s much closer to </em><glossary term="Collioure" title="319"><em>Collioure</em></glossary><em> and all the Saint-André vines are right there. From my village, there is only one road to </em><glossary term="Banyuls" title="135"><em>Banyuls</em></glossary><em> and the 9 Caves where I have my </em><glossary term="Cellar" title="254"><em>cellar</em></glossary><em>. We’re </em><glossary term="Harvest" title="521"><em>harvesting</em></glossary><em> in August, it’s peak tourist season. Sometimes it takes me an hour and half to get to the 9 Caves. It’s a huge waste of time and energy.”</em></p>
<p>The first sector we visited is Joachim's single largest <glossary term="Plot" title="1133">plot</glossary> of land. </p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/7a/84/7a84a583c9770f8971803bfc351cc830.jpg" /><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/e8/13/e813a479cfde9bfbb5fcfc5f3fc1c3d3.jpg" /><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/04/d2/04d278591814eced1fe9b1779bdc8ac8.jpg" /></p>
<p>The main plantings are 12 year old <glossary term="Muscat" title="698">Muscat</glossary> that go into "Esperanza Blanc", along with the <glossary term="Syrah" title="1001">Syrah</glossary> and <glossary term="Grenache" title="508">Grenache Noir</glossary> Joachim uses to make his <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Rosé/Rosato" title="871">rosé</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> In 2022, he will plant some <glossary term="Xarel lo" title="1302">Xarel-lo</glossary> in hopes of making a sparkling wine. The <glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary> will also be by these vines, to the right of the building in the picture above. </p>
<p>The soils here are very <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Sand" title="909">sandy</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> so <glossary term="Yield" title="1129">yields</glossary> can get up to very respectable 4<span class="zalup"><span>0<glossary term="hl/ha" title="528">hl/h</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/0c/fb/0cfbf9c5991e1db49909d90aa8fdefb7.jpg" /></p>
<p>Some of the younger vines have been struggling, so Joachim planted mustard seeds between the rows to help with vigor.</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/b4/11/b411c632ed4b9f478eaad60b75aedc42.jpg" /></p>
<p>The second <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcel</glossary> we visited is what Joachim uses the for his "Brutal".</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/cf/fd/cffd5c742cb259a738e3b40e5513b281.jpg" /></p>
<p>The <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcel</glossary> consists of <glossary term="Syrah" title="1001">Syrah</glossary> <glossary term="Co-plantation" title="309">co-planted</glossary> with <glossary term="Muscat d'Alexandrie" title="687">Muscat d’Alexandrie</glossary> (hey, that's the same <glossary term="Blend" title="168">blend</glossary> as Tom Lubbe's Brutal!) The vines are about 25 years old and planted on rockier <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Sand" title="909">sands</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> They are off an off-road with little else but little patches of vines.</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/54/83/5483f0fa3048d2bfba87e0806d70fa2a.jpg" /></p>
<p>That's the <glossary term="Pyrenees Mountains" title="1195">Pyrenees</glossary> in the above background on the left. You could see them at any point of the visit. </p>
<p>The third Saint-André <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcel</glossary> we drove to is planted in 1.2<glossary term="Hectare" title="523">h</glossary> of <glossary term="Grenache" title="508">Grenache Noir</glossary> and 1.2<glossary term="Hectare" title="523">h</glossary> of <glossary term="Syrah" title="1001">Syrah</glossary> for reds, along with 40 <glossary term="Are" title="1208">ares</glossary> of <glossary term="Macabeu" title="609">Macabeu</glossary> and <glossary term="Vermentino" title="1081">Vermentino</glossary> for white.</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/54/f0/54f09807b519167f46e8c348fffb0e9e.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/84/09/84098fd07b6f2e74317b6574266e4403.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/84/e4/84e46f4a64ba900fc6c4ec771197f9e7.jpg" /></p>
<p>There are plans to plant 35 <glossary term="Are" title="1208">ares</glossary> of <glossary term="Grenache Blanc" title="509">Grenache Blanc</glossary> here in 2022.</p>
<p>We didn't stop and see all 12.5 <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> in Saint-Andrée, though we did drive past a few <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcels</glossary> that go into the Tutti Frutti Ananas project. From this land, Joachim currently produces the Carterole "Esperanza" cuvées (white, rosé, red) and roughly 80% of the Tutti Frutti Ananas production. </p>
<p>We then headed to the <glossary term="Collioure" title="319">Collioure</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Terroir" title="1026">terroirs</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Joachim's main <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcel</glossary> is on the other side of the mountain from Saint-André. There were some stunning views on the drive over. </p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/29/17/2917a5a01ee2afaa0bfcd988223fe84c.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/f6/e4/f6e4b9005f6625ef41023b1055b458f7.jpg" /></p>
<p>Fun fact: that rock on the top of the picture above is famous for mountain climbing and actually where special police and fire fighters train. </p>
<p>After settling down a windy road, Joachim gave us the the lay of the land. His main <glossary term="Collioure" title="319">Collioure</glossary> parcel has been dubbed Estafette because of the abandoned Renault truck of the same name living in the vineyard. </p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/95/c4/95c4764a964be283c8cdcc8244bfca29.jpg" /></p>
<p><em>"I have no idea how it got here. But it's useful to hide in when it rains or it's cold!"</em></p>
<p>Hey, at least this is one <glossary term="Lieu-Dit" title="594">lieu-dit</glossary> where we actually know the name's origin! If you pay attention, you'll also notice the truck on all of Joachim's labels along with some <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Terrace" title="1022">terraces</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> a fisherman and <glossary term="Collioure" title="319">Collioure</glossary>'s famous church Notre Dame des Anges.</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/14/7b/147be6451c4bf2a2d6972a829b4e6774.png" /></p>
<p> </p>
<p><em>"If you're driving in the area, you can see the truck from pretty far away. We've thought of painting it with our name and having tastings in it. Maybe one day." </em></p>
<p>From this <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcel</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> an "Esta Fête" white and red are produced. Grape wise, it’s a traditional <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcel</glossary> planted with the three colors of <glossary term="Grenache" title="508">Grenache</glossary> along with some <glossary term="Carignan" title="237">Carignan</glossary> and a tiny bit of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Roussanne" title="878">Roussanne</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> </p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/74/ab/74abdea4b90bda92113c5d0b035b553b.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/d6/45/d645b458f9fc901af39108debb63fba4.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/25/65/2565c72ca2b29eaf597a31da3afbf58f.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/5a/40/5a400833ad816e7f313e2962a2eb1cea.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/cf/52/cf527e5f5a6556b1a19a052911cfbe1a.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/c6/69/c669428e47d62d2a906c6cbb92260e39.jpg" /></p>
<p>The view is not too bad either:</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/39/23/392362bc727801e73d8fe588acef57b3.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/ee/15/ee150d60dcf1778da684600911007215.jpg" /></p>
<p>Directly above Joachim's vines, Manuel from Vinyer de la Ruca has one of his biggest vineyards. I covered it extensively in my 2019 Vinyer de la Ruca visit and recommend you read about if there. </p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/21/fc/21fc5fe187a73b80d0e9df32c7c21bd2.jpg" /></p>
<p>If you look closely in the photo above, you'll notice sheep. They thought we were there to feed them and were very disappointed. </p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/91/d2/91d23ccc9e9d66a7b902add9e991be95.jpg" /></p>
<p>One thing I hadn't caught back in 2019 was that a large proportion of the grapes in Manuel's <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcel</glossary> go into the <glossary term="Blend" title="168">blend</glossary> for "Morango", a <glossary term="Cuvée" title="363">cuvée</glossary> from Tutti Frutti Ananas. </p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/61/b7/61b7cd1622e36536e33d2ff4066084d8.jpg" /></p>
<p>With the sheep still booing (behhhing?) us, we got back in the car, driving closer to <glossary term="Collioure" title="319">Collioure</glossary> itself to visit a second sector.</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/70/79/7079905bb7bcf264d276cc51cbefdfac.jpg" /></p>
<p>Here the <glossary term="Terrace" title="1022">terraces</glossary> are much more spaced out and at a lower <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Elevation" title="419">elevation</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> The three <glossary term="Grenache" title="508">Grenaches</glossary> are planted with <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Carignan" title="237">Carignan</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> but Joachim is planting other varieties for fun because it is one of the only sectors in <glossary term="Collioure" title="319">Collioure</glossary> that is <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Mechanization" title="645">mechanizable</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> These are also the only vines Joachim owns.</p>
<p>It was lunch time, so we headed back to town for a lovely meal accompanied by Joachim's 2021's. </p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/f1/a1/f1a15a58ffc0ac115f605046db044a06.jpg" /></p>
<p>The wines were all showing quite well despite it being a very complicated <glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintage</glossary> with long <glossary term="Fermentation" title="441">fermentations</glossary> and a particularly worrisome spike of <glossary term="Volatile Acidity" title="1116">volatile acidity</glossary> that forced Joachim to add a gram of <glossary term="Sulfites" title="993">sulfur</glossary> to the wines before <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Bottling" title="185">bottling</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> This is the first time Joachim has used <glossary term="Sulfites" title="993">S02</glossary> in his own production. He feels it's a concession but does not regret the decision. </p>
<p>After lunch, we got to be tourists for 10 minutes since the restaurant was right next to Notre Dame des Anges (which was unfortunately under repair scaffolding.)</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/03/78/03784ac9f7446127ccb9990e19bc6476.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/64/f6/64f6e022a7446d1bb1bbdaae67231cee.jpg" /></p>
<p>On the way back to <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Banyuls" title="135">Banyuls</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> we stopped by Joachim's third sector in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Collioure" title="319">Collioure</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> </p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/5f/ea/5fea7210163714b013e5075d2f70bef5.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/63/21/6321df73001129619c316c3a27c214f5.jpg" /><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/53/55/5355e12d168cf4fb67b8907f3df4fdca.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/e9/3a/e93a918ba5daa2764757f8042eb1164e.jpg" /></p>
<p>As you can see, these vines are directly above <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Collioure" title="319">Collioure</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Along with the traditional <glossary term="Grenache" title="508">Grenaches</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Carignan" title="237">Carignan</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> Joachim has planted <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Roussanne" title="878">Roussanne</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary term="Vermentino" title="1081">Vermentino </glossary>and <glossary term="Mourvèdre" title="692">Mourvèdre</glossary> in this area along with more <glossary term="Grenache Gris" title="1158">Grenache Gris</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Grenache Blanc" title="509">Grenache Blanc</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> A huge and unprecedented storm destroyed a lot of the vines here in 2014, so it was an opportunity to start fresh with these less traditional grapes. It was also a ton of work as they had to rebuild the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Terrace" title="1022">terraces</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p>Before linking with Manuel from Vinyer de la Ruca, we stopped by the Carterole <glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary> to taste a last wine Joachim had forgotten at lunch.</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/2d/ad/2dad287bfe791f18b7dd727d5288d708.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/c7/40/c7401652e6006efb390d26119632e952.jpg" /></p>
<p>As with all the producers working out of the 9 Caves, the spaces are tiny and everything fits where it can. These bare bones <glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellars</glossary> really afirm that the quality of these wines is coming from the <glossary term="Terroir" title="1026">terroir</glossary> first and foremost.</p>
producer profile
<p>Joachim Roque is a native of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Collioure" title="319">Collioure</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> the famed medieval town on the Mediterranean coast of French <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Catalunya" title="247">Catalunya</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> While tourism now reigns as its principle economy, for generations <glossary term="Collioure" title="319">Collioure</glossary> was a fisherman’s village. To supplement their income, keep busy in the off-season and have wine for personal consumption, all fishermen had vines. Joachim’s grandfather was the last major fisherman of the village, and from a young age his grandson would help out on weekends during the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvest</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> After a failed first year of university, Roque decided to stop school and start working; athletic and a fan of the outdoors, working in the vines seemed like a good fit.</p>
<p>In <glossary term="Collioure" title="319">Collioure</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Banyuls" title="135">Banyuls</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> the <glossary term="Cave Cooperative" title="252">cave cooperatives</glossary> have a quasi-monopole of locally grown grapes. Almost all of its members work <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Conventional Farming" title="331">conventionally</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> yet somehow Joachim landed at the only <glossary term="Organic Certification" title="260">certified organic</glossary> <glossary term="Vigneron/Vignaiolo" title="1089">vigneron</glossary> in the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Cave Cooperative" title="252">coop</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> This <glossary term="Vigneron/Vignaiolo" title="1089">vigneron</glossary> was an outlier for good reason: the <glossary term="Terrace" title="1022">terraces</glossary> of <glossary term="Banyuls" title="135">Banyuls</glossary> and <glossary term="Collioure" title="319">Collioure</glossary> are notoriously hard to work and low <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Yield" title="1129">yielding</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> even more so in <glossary term="Organic" title="746">organics</glossary> where all the soil work has to be done manually.</p>
<p>Joachim’s boss may have been the only “<glossary term="Organic" title="746">bio</glossary>” in the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Cave Cooperative" title="252">coop</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> but he wasn’t completely alone in the area. Seen as total lunatics by the locals, a handful of <glossary term="Vigneron/Vignaiolo" title="1089">vignerons</glossary> had started trickling in from other regions or countries, doing everything manually, making the wines themselves and even selling the stuff. The legendary Alain Castex was first, followed by Bruno Duchêne and Manuel di Vecchi Staraz of Vinyer de la Ruca. Bruno was already purchasing grapes from Joachim’s employer, and this is how Roque was introduced to this microcosm of forward thinkers. </p>
<p>Inspired by this small group of <glossary term="Vigneron/Vignaiolo" title="1089">vignerons</glossary> working <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Organic" title="746">organically</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> in 2010 Joachim decided to set out on his own and join the <span class="zalup"><span> <glossary term="Cave Cooperative" title="252">coop</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> He found a <glossary term="Viticulture" title="1103">viticulture</glossary> program in nearby <glossary term="Rivesaltes" title="863">Rivesaltes</glossary> and enrolled in their first year teaching an <glossary term="Organic" title="746">organic</glossary> curriculum. When it came time to pick an internship, Roque felt it made no sense learning in a <glossary term="Mechanization" title="645">mechanizable</glossary> farm. It had to be his native <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Terrace" title="1022">terraces</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> and the tiny amount of <glossary term="Organic" title="746">organic</glossary> producers made for an easy placement at Alain Castex’s Casot des Mailloles. With Alain he learned everything about <glossary term="Viticulture" title="1103">viticulture</glossary> in the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Terrace" title="1022">terraces</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> which he’s summed up to us in three words: “<span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Xadic" title="1465">xadic</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary term="Xadic" title="1465">xadic</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Xadic" title="1465">xadic</glossary><span>!</span></span></span>”</p>
<p>From there, finding vines was not hard: huge swaths of land were abandoned. Through his local connections, Joachim easily amassed an ambitious 14 <span class="zalup"><span> <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> mostly from particularly hard to work <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcels</glossary> in bad shape.</p>
<p>From his second <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvest</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> Roque started selling grapes to Bruno Duchêne and the two quickly became friends. In 2012, Bruno launched Les 9 Caves, a revamp of <glossary term="Banyuls" title="135">Banyuls</glossary>’ old <glossary term="Cave Cooperative" title="252">cave cooperative</glossary> (the <glossary term="Cave Cooperative" title="252">coop</glossary> had abandoned the <glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary> in town for a modern facility in its outskirts) fully decked out with a retail shop, restaurant, guest houses and nine small <glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellars</glossary> destined to small, independent <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vigneron/Vignaiolo" title="1089">vignerons</glossary><span>:</span></span></span> a <glossary term="Cave Cooperative" title="252">cave cooperative</glossary> of independents! One day Bruno asked Joachim if he’d ever want to make wine and proposed him one of the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellars</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Flustered, Roque told him he had no idea how to <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vinification" title="1104">vinify</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> This was right around <glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvest</glossary>; Bruno told Joachim that if he wanted, he could help out in the <glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary> every night and he’d show him how he worked. Taking him up on his offer, Joachim observed, asked questions and got inspired.</p>
<p>In 2014, a scant 1500 bottles of Domaine Carterole wines were produced from a small part of Joachim’s grapes. By 2017, it was dawning on Roque that working 14 <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> of <glossary term="Collioure" title="319">Collioure</glossary> <glossary term="Terrace" title="1022">terraces</glossary> <glossary term="Organic" title="746">organically</glossary> was untenable. Having recently relocated to the nearby village of Saint-André, he began relinquishing many <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> on the <glossary term="Terrace" title="1022">terraces</glossary> and replacing them with vines in his new village. Only 15 minutes from <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Collioure" title="319">Collioure</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> the <glossary term="Terroir" title="1026">terroirs</glossary> of Saint-André are <glossary term="Alluvial" title="93">alluvial</glossary> and relatively flat, permitting <glossary term="Mechanization" title="645">mechanization</glossary> and producing “proper” <glossary term="Yield" title="1129">yields</glossary> of 4<span class="zalup"><span>0<glossary term="hl/ha" title="528">hl/h</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p>Today Joachim splits his time between 8.5 <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> in <glossary term="Collioure" title="319">Collioure</glossary> and 12 <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> in Saint-André. Still working at the 9 Caves, he is planning to build a <glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary> in Saint-André for the 2023 <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintage</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> As of 2021, he no longer sells grapes to the <glossary term="Cave Cooperative" title="252">cave cooperative</glossary>; at the time of this writing, roughly 40% of his grapes goes into the production of Domaine Carterole, the rest into the Tutti Frutti Ananas project and to Bruno Duchêne. Hey, we import all three!</p>
interview
<p><strong>You’re originally from the region and from a viticultural family right?</strong></p>
<p>I’m from the region but not exactly from a <glossary term="Viticulture" title="1103">viticultural</glossary> family. I was born and raised in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Collioure" title="319">Collioure</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> my grandfather was the last fisherman of the village. Back then, it was traditional for fisherman to own vines as a second occupation; the winter season was much slower for fish so it was something else to do. So I’ve always been around vines, doing <glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvests</glossary> every year. Pretty much everyone worked for the <glossary term="Cave Cooperative" title="252">cave cooperative</glossary> of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Banyuls" title="135">Banyuls</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> at the time all the grapes went into making the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vin Doux" title="1095">vin doux</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p><strong>How much land did your grandfather have?</strong></p>
<p>Back then every family had two or three <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> it was a complementary activity and not seen as a full time job. When my grandfather got older, it was his brother-in-law who started taking care of the vines. He had about eight <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> and those <glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvests</glossary> are my earliest memories in the vines. My grandmother had eight children and it was a big weekend activity: the whole family would <glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvest</glossary> and she’d cook for everyone.</p>
<p><strong>So you inherited land?</strong></p>
<p>I did not. No one from my family kept my great uncle’s vines. As you know, the popularity of <glossary term="Banyuls" title="135">Banyuls</glossary> and <glossary term="Vin Doux" title="1095">vin doux</glossary> has been in free fall for quite a while. So he’d sold off most of his land and kept very little.</p>
<p>I went through high school but flunked out of university, it was not my thing. So I needed to start working. I ended up working for a <glossary term="Vigneron/Vignaiolo" title="1089">vigneron</glossary> who sold to the <glossary term="Cave Cooperative" title="252">cave cooperative</glossary> but worked <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Organic" title="746">organically</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> I’ve always been an athletic person, so I took a liking to the the physical aspect and being outside. That was in 2008.</p>
<p><strong>How long did you work with this vigneron and what led to your own project?</strong></p>
<p>I worked with him for about a year. He was the only one working in <glossary term="Organic" title="746">organics</glossary> for the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Cave Cooperative" title="252">coop</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> so he knew all the “crazy” independent <glossary term="Vigneron/Vignaiolo" title="1089">vignerons</glossary> working in the same way: Alain Castex, Bruno Duchêne, Manuel di Vecchi Staraz… and he was also selling them a bit of his crop for a little extra income. So that was my introduction to that microcosm.</p>
<p>Working <glossary term="Organic" title="746">organically</glossary> felt natural to me and meeting these small independent <glossary term="Vigneron/Vignaiolo" title="1089">vignerons</glossary> coming from other regions was inspiring. In 2010, I decided I wanted to start my own project. So I followed a <glossary term="Viticulture" title="1103">viticultural</glossary> program in <span class="zalup"><span> <glossary term="Rivesaltes" title="863">Rivesaltes</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> mainly so I could touch subventions from the government. It was the first year they were offering an <glossary term="Organic" title="746">organic</glossary> curriculum, so that meant my internship would de facto be with someone who was <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Organic Certification" title="260">certified</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Being from <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Collioure" title="319">Collioure</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> it didn’t make sense to me to go somewhere flat and learn tractor work; I needed someone in <glossary term="Collioure" title="319">Collioure</glossary>/<span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Banyuls" title="135">Banyuls</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Fortunately for me, there weren’t a ton of choices and I ended up with Alain Castex. He taught me everything about <glossary term="Organic" title="746">organic</glossary> <glossary term="Viticulture" title="1103">viticulture</glossary> in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Banyuls" title="135">Banyuls</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> which I will sum up as: the <glossary term="Xadic" title="1465">xadic</glossary> and the <glossary term="Xadic" title="1465">xadic</glossary> and the <glossary term="Xadic" title="1465">xadic</glossary> (laughs). But my time there did not coincide with the <glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvest</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vinification" title="1104">vinifications</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> so I was not able to learn anything from him in that respect.</p>
<p>Being from the area, it wasn’t that hard finding land. These were more or less abandoned by <glossary term="Cave Cooperative" title="252">cooperative</glossary> farmers because they were not very productive. But honestly it was good for me, I learned a lot from the hard work and low <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Yield" title="1129">yields</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> So I started with a few <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> and was bringing my grapes to the cooperative. 2011 was my first <glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvest</glossary> and in 2012 I started finding more land. I was still bringing everything to the <glossary term="Cave Cooperative" title="252">coop</glossary> but working most <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcels</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Organic" title="746">organically</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Talking to Alain and Bruno Duchêne, they said they might be interested in my grapes and that’s how I started selling some to Bruno.</p>
<p>By 2013, Bruno and I had become close. He was in the early stages of the 9 Caves project, and told me: “You’re 25, you’re from the area. You don’t want to make your own wine here?” I told him I had no idea how to make wine, that Alain hadn’t been able to show me. This was around <glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvest</glossary> time, so he told me that if I wanted, I could come by after the day’s work picking and help him out in the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> see how it works and ask questions. So my first lessons in winemaking were with Bruno.</p>
<p>It was great because Bruno is someone who’d been in other regions, had experience past the <glossary term="Terroir" title="1026">terroirs</glossary> of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Banyuls" title="135">Banyuls</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> So I got to absorb his techniques for his wines, but also ask how it was done elsewhere. If I have one regret, it’s that I started so young in my native land and didn’t spend any time seeing how it’s done in other parts of France and the world.</p>
<p><strong>So this was the spark.</strong></p>
<p>Yes. From this experience I decided to make my own wine. But I started with very little independent production and continued to sell to the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Cave Cooperative" title="252">coop</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> This assured revenue that I could re-invest into my own <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> My first <glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintage</glossary> with Domaine Carterole was 2014.</p>
<p><strong>How has Domaine Carterole evolved since that first vintage?</strong></p>
<p>From 2014 to 2017, I’d say about 80% of my production was still going to the <glossary term="Cave Cooperative" title="252">cave cooperative </glossary>and a little bit to Bruno. I had managed to rent 14 <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> of vines at that point, all in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Collioure" title="319">Collioure</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> But I realized it was going to be impossible to working all of these <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Organic" title="746">organically</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> at least economically. So from 2017 to 2020, I let go of a lot of the <glossary term="Terrace" title="1022">terraces</glossary> and searched for flatter land that was at least partly <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Mechanization" title="645">mechanizable</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> These ended up being in the sector of Saint-André, the village where I live. It was too much land for my own production, so that was also the impetus for Tutti Frutti Ananas. This was 2017.</p>
<p>So 2017 was a turning point. The years prior I was making between 1500 and 3000 bottles, it was nothing. From 2017 to 2020 I made between 4000 and 7500 bottles. And 2021 another milestone, because I acquired more vines in Saint-André but also decided to completely stop with the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Cave Cooperative" title="252">cave cooperative</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> One of the biggest reasons I was so conservative in the early years was that I worried I wouldn’t be able to sell my production. But now I’m confident I can do it and aim to make about 15 000 bottles a year.</p>
<p><strong>14 hectares sounds like a huge amount of land for the area. How much of it was on terraces? How much on flatter land?</strong></p>
<p>It’s true being from the area helped, a lot of people remembered by grandfather. Then my neighbors would see me working the soils with my little caterpillar, they felt compelled talking to the crazy young guy busting his hump. I told them this was my vision for the work in the vines, and a bunch of them actually said that if I wanted, they had land I could rent.</p>
<p>Today I have 8.5 hectares in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Collioure" title="319">Collioure</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> five of those on the traditional <glossary term="Terrace" title="1022">terraces</glossary> where <glossary term="Mechanization" title="645">mechanization</glossary> is impossible. Then I have 12 <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> in Saint-Andrée where I live. <glossary term="Collioure" title="319">Collioure</glossary> is a magnificent <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Terroir" title="1026">terroir</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> but economically it’s very hard to make a living, especially if you work <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Organic" title="746">organically</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> I’d have to sell the wines super expensive or do some <glossary term="Négociant" title="729">négoce</glossary> on the side. In Saint-André I can get 4<span class="zalup"><span>0<glossary term="hl/ha" title="528">hl/h</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> with <glossary term="Yield" title="1129">yields</glossary> like that I can have something to offer quantity-wise at a more reasonable price.</p>
<p><strong>Even eight hectares still sounds like a lot for Collioure.</strong></p>
<p>Some guys have a lot more but it’s worked <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Conventional Farming" title="331">conventionally</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> But yes, I suppose I have a relatively large amount of land, especially for working <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Organic" title="746">organically</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p><strong>What goes into Domaine Carterole versus Tutti Frutti Ananas?</strong></p>
<p>I’d say I <glossary term="Vinification" title="1104">vinify</glossary> about 40% of my production, then the rest goes to Tutti Frutti and to Bruno. Roughly 80% of the grapes that produce Tutti Frutti come from my land.</p>
<p><strong>What does Carterole mean?</strong></p>
<p>It was my grandfather’s nickname. A carterole is the little barrel like the ones Saint Bernards wear around their necks. Back in the day, fishermen would fill theirs up with wine for the day’s work on the boat. The wines were much lighter back then, and grandpa had a reputation for drinking a lot of it. So that’s where the nickname came from.</p>
<p><strong>What grapes are you growing?</strong></p>
<p>In <glossary term="Collioure" title="319">Collioure</glossary> the biggest <glossary term="Plot" title="1133">plot</glossary> I have is a flat <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcel</glossary> of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Syrah" title="1001">Syrah</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> It’s not very traditional, here we always had the three <glossary term="Grenache" title="508">Grenache</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span>(<glossary term="Grenache" title="508">Noir</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Grenache Gris" title="1158">Gris</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary term="Grenache Blanc" title="509">Blanc</glossary>) and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Carignan" title="237">Carignan</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> When they introduced the <glossary term="Collioure" title="319">Collioure</glossary> <glossary term="Appellation" title="113">appellation</glossary> in 1971, those wines are meant to be dry so they started permitting other grapes. Now 15 are allowed; that includes <glossary term="Mourvèdre" title="692">Mourvèdre</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Counoise" title="351">Counoise</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> the latter being very rare. The only guy I knew who still has a lot is Alain Castex. Besides the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Syrah" title="1001">Syrah</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> in <glossary term="Collioure" title="319">Collioure</glossary> I have <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Grenache" title="508">Grenache Noir</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary term="Carignan" title="237">Carignan</glossary> and <glossary term="Mourvèdre" title="692">Mourvèdre</glossary> for red. In white I have <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Grenache Gris" title="1158">Grenache Gris</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Grenache Blanc" title="509">Grenache Blanc</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary term="Vermentino" title="1081">Vermentino</glossary> and some <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Roussanne" title="878">Roussanne</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p>In Saint-André I have <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Grenache Gris" title="1158">Grenache Gris</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Macabeu" title="609">Macabeu</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Syrah" title="1001">Syrah</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Carignan" title="237">Carignan</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary term="Grenache" title="508">Grenache Noir</glossary> and a bit of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Muscat" title="698">Muscat</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> All of this was already there, and two years ago I planted some more <glossary term="Macabeu" title="609">Macabeu</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vermentino" title="1081">Vermentino</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> And this year I’ll plant more of those along with <glossary term="Grenache Blanc" title="509">Grenache Blanc</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Xarel lo" title="1302">Xarello</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p><strong>Being the only local in what you call this microcosm of small vignerons puts you in a fairly unique position. You’re from the region but learned from outsiders; how does that resonate with you personally and for the region as a whole?</strong></p>
<p>Before I met any of these <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vigneron/Vignaiolo" title="1089">vignerons</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> I’d of course heard of them. Locals considered them eccentric oddballs. They thought they were crazy for working this land manually for tiny <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Yield" title="1129">yields</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> I’ll admit that locally people are quite judgmental and wary of outsiders. I know Bruno befriended an old man who taught him how to <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Grafting" title="500">graft</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> but personalities like that are rare around here. </p>
<p>But I also think there was resentment and jealousy. Think about it: 90% of the <glossary term="Vigneron/Vignaiolo" title="1089">vignerons</glossary> are selling to the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Cave Cooperative" title="252">cave cooperative</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> and here come these outsiders with their independent <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Estate" title="427">estates</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> selling the entirety of their production at high prices. Fortunetly I got to know these people and they are extraordinary: they are humble, generous and smart. Bruno gave me the opportunity to have my own <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Knowing I’d be around Bruno and Manuel with Alain just next door, it’s what motivated me to do this. Without their influence, I don’t know where I’d have ended up.</p>
<p>I’m very lucky, they’ve always had my back: tasting my wines, giving me advice, reassuring me, always giving me the time of day. They also introduced me to all their customers! A conventional winemaker, even if he has his own <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Estate" title="427">estate</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> he’s not going to share his customers with a neighbor, he sees them as a competitor. Bruno and Manuel, they’ve taken me to all the fairs, introduced me to people like you, made sure I was around at the right times.</p>
<p>A lot of locals scratch there heads at what we do; this is an area that has lost all of its popularity yet here is this small group of people selling their production. We are happy in what we do, we get along, we share our energy and party together. It’s great.</p>
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Article
"We should drink more and speak less!" -Arianna Occhipinti
It's the phenomenon that's sweeping the nation. People are drinking large quantities of delicious wine and they can't stop. Back in early November, I'd reported on the Tennessean Beaujolais Craze, but it's happening everywhere: New York, California, Michigan, Wisconsin…
"It's just so good!" exclaims Jody Witchencron, a Kalamazoo, Michigan native. "Every sip makes me want another!"
"It's such a sheer pleasure to drink that I don't have time to read how many points anyone gave it!" mused Don Hickleberry of Houston, Texas.
"It's more than just drinking. It's a lifestyle." said some bearded hipster.
All across the nation, it seems that a new generation of wine consumers are quickly taking rise. These are men and women who actually enjoy drinking wine because it tastes good, because it pairs well with food, because they can drink a lot of it and not be completely hungover the next morning.
Glou-Glou, the evocative term on everyone's tongue, is simply the culmination of these qualities in wine. Roughly translated, Glou-Glou means "glug-glug", the sound your throat makes while rapidly consuming a liquid beverage. The implication, of course, is that the wine is so good that one cannot help but drinking it. In France, they are referred to as Vin de Soif, or wines of thirst. More often than not, these wines tend to be lighter in alcohol, tannins (for reds) and body, but still have pronounced acidity, minerality and a real sense of terroir. Heavy , and especially new oak, are arguably deal breakers.
The geographical origins of the term are still somewhat unclear, but expert Gulpologists like Thierry Puzelat and Olivier Lemasson invariably trace it back to wines of the Beaujolais:
"I visit Ville-Morgon every year the way some go to Lourdes; there aren't any miracles, but there's certainly joy for me!"- Thierry Puzelat
"I love the Beaujolais. My formative years in winemaking were at Marcel Lapierre's, and this whole vin de soif thing stems from the Beaujolais style. Even though his Morgon was very complex, beautiful wine, it was also very easy to drink!"- Olivier Lemasson
By most accounts, the Loire has comfortably become the second Glou-Glou capitol of France, where cooler northern climates produce light, crisp and easy wines that are incredibly versatile with food but are just as easy to enjoy on their own.
"...the wines that really made me start to believe I could make wine in this style were Thierry Puzelat's. Marcel (Lapierre)'s wines were the spark, but he lived 450 kilometers away from me and was working with very different terroirs; having a neighbor pull it off right next door was the inspiration and motivation to follow in his footsteps."-Hervé Villemade, based out of Cheverny and Cour-Cheverny.
This light, fruity style has spread like wildfire in the natural winemaking world, and it is now possible to find whole-cluster, semi carbonic -aka "Beaujolais Style"- , or even fully carbonic macerated wines from all over the world. In many ways, carbonic maceration has come to define the Glou-Glou style, but many feel that fixating on how wine should taste or is made would be missing the larger point. A recent excerpt from Stefano Belloti's interview on the recently relaunched louisdressner.com website sums up what many believe the movement to be about:
"The vocation of my vines has always been, in my mind, to make wines that can be aged for a long time. Serious wine...
So I decided, instead of making serious wine, I just wanted to make wine. Wine to drink. I make a red and a white. It worked out really well because instead of making wines that you have to intellectualize, I've also produced ones that just win you over, a wine you don't think about, that you take great pleasure in drinking. You don't need to worry what about the region or the varietal or the nose or whatever. When you do this you are intellectualizing wine, and wine doesn't give a shit about being intellectual. So it's "Simply" red or white: you bring them to the table and you don't think about it, you just drink it. That's it."
Some worry that by broadening the term to any wine that is easy to drink, you run the risk of the consumer confusing "easy to drink" with "simple" or "one dimensional". Gulpologist Lemasson elaborates:
"When I say vin de soif, I'm not claiming these wines are simple; they can be complex in their own right. What I mean by that is they are easy to drink on their own."
Though the movement is still relatively young, one thing is certain: people are celebrating life by drinking good wine and eating good food with good people. Bottoms up!