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This visit to Panevino took place in May, 2013
Words by Jules Dressner, photos by Maya Pedersen.
It was a national holiday -the Italian equivalent of labor day- and Kevin had told us that people celebrate by getting together for a big worker's lunch. All of us were expecting a family style meal with communal tables, big pots everywhere and a never-ending supply of beer. Instead instead we ended up having a seven course wine pairing lunch at the Michelin rated restaurant, S'Apposentu.
Not exactly what we were expecting, but the food was really good and we got to taste all types of wine pairings from local growers, all of which were in attendance. Gianfranco's wine was the recently
From there, we drove to our hotel, where we met Anya!
As you can see from the photos, she REALLY loves belly rubs.
The next morning, we met up with Gianfranco in his hometown of
We started the visit by checking out a 0.6
This is one of three
"It's a project to bring different
Just like America or the European Union! At least in theory...
At the moment, three
Gianfranco found this
"At first it seemed illogical to work with these non-local grapes, but then I realized I had the potential of being a great experiment. I could use this to understand the vineyard's expression of the
The soils here are
To get to the second
It was an unexpected treck, but the reward was getting to walk through the Montassio vineyard!
At 600m altitude, this
I got to sit shotgun with Gianfranco all day, and through a mix of Italian, French and English, we managed to have some great conversations. We'd never met, and he certainly lives up to his reputation of having fascinating and deeply personal insights on
In a particularly quotable moment (out of so many), here is one statement I managed to jot down:
"Your thoughts are a tree that go into the soil of a territory. Mine is a cloud, it moves from place to place, rains into the sea and evaporates back up."
This will hopefully make more sense later.
We drove to a third
Before eating lunch, we did a quick tour of the
Gianfranco is seriously considering phasing out
"It's like putting a baby to sleep in a metal bed instead of a wool one. "
"I have no idea if it worked!"
"The wines tell me what to do. Intuition is the alphabet of God: to think you can decide anything is an illusion."
Many of the
And why not talk about Ogu, which translates to "the eye"?
"Maybe I've gotten used to it, but I like that taste of smoke in the wine."
As far as beautiful
After lunch, we headed out to see more vineyards. The first
A wine is named after this
All of the vineyard work is done with minimal
"I only use it to clean the floor."
Pikade had some of the most visually striking vines of the whole trip.
Here's a particularly artsy shot of Jermemy "Uber
From Pikade, we drove to up a very steep, narrow road to the Cugussi vineyards, Gianfranco's highest at 680 meters!
These vines were planted in 1996, 1997 and 1998.
The day was done, so we decided to go drink some beers by the water. Before, we could make it, we got stuck in a LAMB traffic jam!
This happened three times while we were in
We ended our day at the lake, which was very nice.