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Quinta do Infantado Visit
This visit to Quinta do Infantado took place in September, 2017.
Words by Jules Dressner. Photos by Jules Dressner and Gustavo Roseira.
Considering how long we've been working with Quinta do Infantado, it's incredible it took me almost a decade of full time Louis/Dressner-ing to visit them. João Roseira is a fixture in our lives (we see him at least twice a year), yet neither my parents nor Kevin had been to the
We got our start in beautiful Lisbon!
Our sales expert Jose, a Lisbon native, was very excited!
Upon arriving to our hotel, I took great joy in our street-level rooms facing outside with two-way mirrors.
If this weren't enough for hours of entertainment, right as I was about to leave this couple decided to pose for a selfie.
They were there for a REALLY LONG TIME. It took every ounce of self control to not scare the living bejesus out of them with some kind of two-way mirror jump scare.
I mean, they were there A LONG TIME. So long I was actually able to take this video (DISCLAIMER: painfully awkward, equally hilarious.)
After this satisfying bit of voyeurism, we drank tiny beers and checked out the local sardine offerings.
We also had some snacks and drinks at the excellent Café Tati. Highly recommended! Eventually, Joāo met up with us and we headed to Mini Bar for dinner.
Despite its misleading name, Mini Bar is actually a great tasting menu restaurant within the halls of Lisbon's gorgeous Teatro São Luiz.
We then went BACK to Café Tati, though it was tempting to go to Viking Discoteca and Pink WinePoint instead.
The following morning, João moonlighted as our official Louis/Dressner chauffeur and tour guide at the airport.
This was because we were picking up customers from Chicago, Wisconsin, Colorado and Boston but had no idea what anyone looked like. Once the jet-lagged crew was assembled, it was time to visit Quinta do Infantado!
The Roseira family live in
This is the view from their house.
Infantado used to have an active olive oil mill right under these vines. It was quite intensive, requiring four months of full time work each year. When the
Before jumping into the vines, João broke down his
"Quinta do Infantado is more like
What he means is that most big
The vineyard across the house makes the “green label”
When you talk
Up until the 1980’s, it was traditional to
“You could have 200 different grapes in the same row. With no exposure to the outside world, this technique remained localized and unique.”
White grapes were commonly
Jose was once again very excited.
The second vineyard we visited, Vale de Mourhos, was planted by João’s grandmother in the 1950’s and his father in 1974, 10
Most of the grapes grown here are used in the
One neat thing I noticed were the black
“They are heavy. They break. But they are beautiful and unique to here.”
Harking back to our earlier conversation about the myriad of different grapes planted in the
From Vale de Mourhos, we set off to a third site, Castel.
Jose's enthusiasm persevered.
Castel was by far the most stunning, dramatic view.
This whole area was planted by João’s grandfather in 1912, and consists of four distinct
“Everything is done by hand. It’s a ton of work and I’m not sure people understand that.”
After a beautiful tour of the vineyards, it was time to scope out the winery.
The wines all
Infantado stuck with traditional
It was co-designed by Joāo and, while others have adopted it since, Infantado was the first to use it. Though he admits missing the long days of
“Now we can focus our energy and man-power in the vines, which is the most important work.”
The next, crucial steps occur in the
At this point,
We of course tasted many delicious wines.
We also got to visit the Museu do
You know what's impressive? When the winery you're visiting has its own museum display.
On our last day, we cruised around the picturesque city of
Adding to the fun, we kept finding these Cristiano Ronaldo masks everywhere:
The night ended with late night-dancing to rare vinyl grooves, including this cover of Tainted Love:
No one wanted to go leave, but