Jean-Christophe Garnier Producer Profile
Jean-Christophe Garnier Producer Profile
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producer profile
<p>For years now, Jean-Christophe Garnier’s complex <glossary term="Chenin Blanc" title="281">Chenin Blancs</glossary> and easy drinking reds are wines we have loved and admired from afar. From first discovering them at The Ten Bells in the late aughts (the cash only days!), ordering bottles whenever in Paris or the obligatory <glossary term="Magnum" title="617">magnum</glossary> following post-<span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Dive Bouteille" title="395">Dive Bouteille </glossary></span></span>romps at le Cercle Rouge in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Angers" title="104">Angers</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> Garnier’s work is something we’ve long admired as fans. And based on the immediate excitement of our customers bringing the wines back to the US market after a six year hiatus, it would seem many of you feel the same way!</p>
<p>With no family ties to <glossary term="Viticulture" title="1103">viticulture</glossary> or winemaking, Garnier found his passion for wine as a <glossary term="Sommelier" title="969">sommelier</glossary> in his home region of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Brittany" title="197">Brittany</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> In the late 1990’s, he took a year off to go study <glossary term="Viticulture" title="1103">viticulture</glossary> in hopes to deepen his knowledge before opening a wine bar with a friend. Due to its proximity to <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Brittany" title="197">Brittany</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> he enrolled in a school close to the <glossary term="Viticulture" title="1103">viticultural</glossary> region of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Anjou" title="105">Anjou</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> where he was placed in an apprenticeship working with Mark Angeli of the legendary Ferme de la Sansonièrre. Typical of Angeli, Mark immediately encouraged JC to start a new life by creating his own <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Estate" title="427">estate</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> After completing his curriculum, Garnier went back to restaurants for a couple of years but ultimately returned to <glossary term="Anjou" title="105">Anjou</glossary> after Angeli found him a couple of <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> to start his own <glossary term="Estate" title="427">estate</glossary> in 2002.</p>
<p>Far from the hotbed of forward-thinking producers that currently populate the area, <glossary term="Anjou" title="105">Anjou</glossary> was at the time a struggling region known mostly for its sweet <glossary term="Bonnezeaux" title="177">Bonnezeaux</glossary> and <glossary term="Coteaux-du-Layon" title="349">Coteaux du Layon</glossary> <glossary term="Appellation" title="113">appellation</glossary> wines, with generic <glossary term="Anjou" title="105">Anjou</glossary> whites mostly produced as cloyingly sweet, <glossary term="Filtration" title="447">sterile-filtered</glossary> copycats of the aforementioned <glossary term="AOC" title="108">AOC</glossary>’s. The wines made with red grapes weren’t faring so well either: <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Tannin" title="1010">tannic</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> rustic <glossary term="Grolleau" title="513">Grolleau</glossary> and <glossary term="Cabernet Franc" title="216">Cabernet Franc</glossary>/<glossary term="Cabernet Sauvignon" title="217">Cabernet Sauvignon</glossary> <glossary term="Blend" title="168">blends</glossary> or Rosé d'Anjou, another cloyingly sweet, <glossary term="Filtration" title="447">sterile-filtered</glossary> beverage that had become increasingly difficult to sell by the turn of the millennium.</p>
<p>Garnier, along with a small group of now legendary trailblazers- Mark Angeli, Richard Leroy, Patrick Baudoin and Agnès and René Mosse to name a few- took advantage of the region’s identity crisis, gaining access to cheap, readily available land from the mid 1990’s through the mid 2000’s. Decades ahead of their time, these outsiders saw the potential to break away from sweet wine production, particularly by producing dry or off-dry whites highlighting the incredibly varied types of <glossary term="Schist" title="933">schist</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Terroir" title="1026">terroirs</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Microclimate" title="656">micro-climates</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary term="Exposition" title="430">expositions</glossary> and <glossary term="Elevation" title="419">elevations</glossary> the region has to offer.</p>
<p>Starting with 2.3 <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> in 2002, from the beginning Garnier’s production has consisted of <glossary term="Single Vineyard Bottling" title="959">single vineyard expressions</glossary> of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Chenin Blanc" title="281">Chenin Blanc</glossary><span>:</span></span></span> starting with les Dreuillés (no longer in production), over the years this has come to include Bézigon, la Roche, Rouchefert and the recently acquired Les Justices and 13 Vents, with each wine named after their respective <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Lieu-Dit" title="594">lieu-dit</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> The <glossary term="Chenin Blanc" title="281">Chenin</glossary> grapes are <glossary term="Direct Press" title="392">direct-pressed</glossary> and, while <glossary term="Vinification" title="1104">vinified</glossary> and <glossary term="Aging" title="74">aged</glossary> in various vessels, the intent is always to express <glossary term="Terroir" title="1026">terroir</glossary> through wines approachable in youth but ultimately meant to <glossary term="Cellaring" title="255">cellar</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Aging" title="74">age</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p>Reds came only in 2010, with <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Pineau d'Aunis" title="799">Pineau d’Aunis</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Grolleau" title="513">Grolleau</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Gamay" title="478">Gamay</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary term="Cabernet Franc" title="216">Cabernet Franc</glossary> and <glossary term="Cabernet Sauvignon" title="217">Cabernet Sauvignon</glossary> rounding out the lineup. In contrast to the more serious nature of the whites, JC opts for short, <glossary term="Infusion" title="1378">infusion</glossary> style <glossary term="Whole-Cluster" title="1124">whole-cluster</glossary> <glossary term="Maceration" title="610">macerations</glossary> for his reds, resulting in a more <glossary term="Vin de Soif" title="1094">vin-de-soif</glossary> style. Most of his reds are <glossary term="Bottling" title="185">bottled</glossary> very early -some as early as November of the same year- and meant to drink relatively young. The one exception is "Les Tailles", a <glossary term="Lieu-Dit" title="594">lieu-dit</glossary> planted in <glossary term="Cabernet Franc" title="216">Cabernet Franc</glossary> that sees a 12 day, <glossary term="Whole-Cluster" title="1124">whole-cluster</glossary> <glossary term="Infusion" title="1378">infusion</glossary> <glossary term="Maceration" title="610">maceration</glossary> then <glossary term="Fermentation" title="441">ferments</glossary> and <glossary term="Aging" title="74">ages</glossary> 12 months in <glossary term="Barrel" title="142">barrel</glossary> before release.</p>
<p>The estate has been <glossary term="Organic Certification" title="260">certified</glossary> <glossary term="Organic" title="746">organic</glossary> since its inception. Garnier currently farms 10 <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> of vines, though a significant amount of that land consists of new plantations, of which only some of the <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcels</glossary> are just starting to produce fruit. Four distinct and seperate sectors are farmed, three surrounding the village of <glossary term="Saint-Lambert-du-Lattay" title="983">Saint-Lambert-du-Lattay</glossary> and one in the village of Saint-Aubin-de-Luigné. Creating competition for the vines so they can sink their roots further into the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Mother Rock" title="690">mother rock</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> he likes to plant at a much higher density than what is tradtional in the region, 6500 to 7000 vines per hectare versus the typical 5000 to 5500. </p>
<p>In addition to his own production, for the last few years Garnier has purchased the equivalent of two <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> of <glossary term="Organic" title="746">organically</glossary> farmed fruit from a nearby <glossary term="Vigneron/Vignaiolo" title="1089">vigneron</glossary> with soils quasi-indentical to those he farms. Including the single <glossary term="Négociant" title="729">négociant</glossary> <glossary term="Cuvée" title="363">cuvée</glossary> "Les Nouettes", production is split roughly 50/50 between white and red wines.</p>
<p>In the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> Garnier began omitting <glossary term="Sulfites" title="993">S02</glossary> from his wines in the 2006 <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintage</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> the same year he intentionally <glossary term="Declassification" title="383">declassified</glossary> his wines from <glossary term="Anjou" title="105">Anjou</glossary> to <glossary term="Table Wine" title="1006">Vin de Table</glossary> (a now common occurence that was all but unheard of at the time). Many <glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintages</glossary> were <glossary term="Vinification" title="1104">vinified</glossary> entirely without added <glossary term="Sulfites" title="993">sulfites</glossary> between 2006 and 2016, though in two vintages Garnier felt obliged to use very small amounts at <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Pressing" title="827">press</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> However, with time and experience he has come to believe those <glossary term="Sulfites" title="993">sulfur</glossary> additions did nothing to alter the identity or course of those wines, leading him to stick to a stricly zero <glossary term="Sulfites" title="993">S02</glossary> policy from the the 2016 <glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintage</glossary> onwards. From our experience, this decision comes less from dogma and more from JC's cerebral, attentive nature and conviction that <glossary term="Vinification" title="1104">vinifying</glossary> this way best expresses his <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Terroir" title="1026">terroirs</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p>For more in depth information, please read our interview with Jean-Christophe.</p>
Jean-Christophe Garnier Interview
Jean-Christophe Garnier Interview
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interview
<p><em><strong>This interview with Jean-Christophe Garnier took place over Zoom in September 2024.</strong></em></p>
<p><strong>What were you doing before becoming a vigneron?</strong></p>
<p>I’m from <glossary term="Brittany" title="197">Brittany</glossary> and first got into wine working as a <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Sommelier" title="969">sommelier</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> It was my career for about a decade. I eventually decided to open a wine bar with a friend, but before doing so I told him I wanted to take a year off to learn more about working in the vines. All of my wine education up until that point had come from books, so I wanted to experience things first-hand.</p>
<p>In 1998, I enrolled in a <glossary term="Viticulture" title="1103">viticultural</glossary> school not too far from <glossary term="Anjou" title="105">Anjou</glossary> and was lucky enough to find myself apprenticing with Mark Angeli at Ferme de la Sansonièrre. From the start, he was very supportive and insistant that I start my own <glossary term="Estate" title="427">estate</glossary> in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Anjou" title="105">Anjou</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> After finishing my program, I went back to restaurants for a bit but ultimately decided to come back here to start making wine myself. That was in 2002.</p>
<p>Mark helped me find 2.5 <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> to launch my project. I then found a house in the village of <glossary term="Saint-Lambert-du-Lattay" title="983">Saint-Lambert-du-Lattay</glossary> for my family with an adjoining <glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary> for my wines. And from the strong <glossary term="Viticulture" title="1103">viticultural</glossary> community in the village, I was able to grow and develop the <glossary term="Estate" title="427">estate</glossary> to what it is today.</p>
<p><strong>Today, Anjou is arguably the most dynamic region in the Loire for newer producers just starting out. When you started it was a very different climate. What made you want to make wine in Anjou?</strong></p>
<p>First and foremost, <glossary term="Anjou" title="105">Anjou</glossary> is relatively close to <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Brittany" title="197">Brittany</glossary><span>!</span></span></span> And I’d been selling <glossary term="Anjou" title="105">Anjou</glossary> wines for quite a few years as a <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Sommelier" title="969">sommelier</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> There was also the strong support from Mark Angeli and what I suppose has become the first wave of forward-thinking <glossary term="Vigneron/Vignaiolo" title="1089">vignerons</glossary> from that time (Mosse, Leroy, Baudoin…) There were also lots of cheap vines to recuperate and room to build out <glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellars</glossary> as well.</p>
<p>Working with <glossary term="Chenin Blanc" title="281">Chenin</glossary> -a grape with incredible versatility- was also an exciting prospect. <glossary term="Anjou" title="105">Anjou</glossary> is also a region where you have access to lots of different grapes, both red and white, as well as a fascinating variety of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Terroir" title="1026">terroirs</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> And it’s close to <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Brittany" title="197">Brittany</glossary><span>!</span></span></span></p>
<p><strong>Did you make appellation wines in the beginning?</strong></p>
<p>Yes I did. At the time it was very rare for <glossary term="Vigneron/Vignaiolo" title="1089">vignerons</glossary> to intentionally <glossary term="Declassification" title="383">de-classify</glossary> their wines.</p>
<p><strong>And what were those early wines?</strong></p>
<p>I started with 2.3 <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary><span>:</span></span></span> 80 <glossary term="Are" title="1208">ares</glossary> of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Grolleau" title="513">Grolleau Gris</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> the rest in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Chenin Blanc" title="281">Chenin Blanc</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> From the beginning I made dry whites, but in a different style than today. At the time everyone picked in “<glossary term="pouri plein" title="1493">pourri-plein</glossary>”, where we’d intentionally seek some over-maturity in the grapes. This picking style makes for very interesting <glossary term="Aromatic" title="120">aromatics</glossary> in a wine’s youth, but is also prone to heavy <glossary term="Oxidation" title="754">oxydation</glossary> and not very beneficial for <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Aging" title="74">aging</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p>This technique for <glossary term="Chenin Blanc" title="281">Chenin Blanc</glossary> is a style really pioneered by Mark Angeli around 1995. 2005 was the nail in the coffin for picking this way, as the years were getting violently solar and it was impossible to make stable wine with slightly <glossary term="Botrytis/Noble Rot" title="181">botrytised</glossary> grapes without using <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Sulfites" title="993">sulfites</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p>I’ve never understood why people feel the need to systematically add <glossary term="Sulfites" title="993">sulfur</glossary> to wine, so I started picking at optimal ripeness instead. Today, I’d even posit I look to pick at a slight under-maturity as to keep <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Acidity" title="71">acidity</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> But recently I’ve decided I want to go back to a slightly riper style. It means a bit more alcohol, but you get more complexity. I suppose it’s being in the middle of both extremes I’ve worked with in the past.</p>
<p><strong>You just brought up sulfites. Where does your conviction to not use S02 come from?</strong></p>
<p>As I mentioned earlier, all of my wine knowledge originally came from books. It was all about regions, grapes, <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Terroir" title="1026">terroirs</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> etc… I had zero notions on how to actually make wine until I started doing it myself. <glossary term="Sulfites" title="993">Sulfur</glossary> seemed to be this very important and necessary additive in winemaking, and I never really understood why. So very quickly, I started not using any.</p>
<p><strong>So you weren’t already a proselytizer of sans souffre wines while working as a sommelier?</strong></p>
<p>I sold some but there were very few readily available when I worked in restaurants. I recall some <glossary term="Côtes du Rhône" title="372">Côtes du Rhône</glossary> producers… For us the focus was more on <glossary term="Artisinal" title="122">artisanal</glossary> production from small, independent <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vigneron/Vignaiolo" title="1089">vignerons</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p><strong>What were your first “aha” moments with wine?</strong></p>
<p>I worked in <glossary term="Banyuls" title="135">Banyuls</glossary> and <glossary term="Collioure" title="319">Collioure</glossary> for a little while. While there, I met some of the local <glossary term="Vigneron/Vignaiolo" title="1089">vignerons</glossary> and also travelled in other parts of the <glossary term="Roussillon" title="880">Roussillon</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Languedoc" title="579">Languedoc</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> The <glossary term="Languedoc" title="579">Languedoc</glossary> in particular was going through a pretty exciting revolutionary period in the 1990’s. It was during that period that I really began to understand that good wine came from well farmed vines first and foremost. And this feeling was amplified when I did my apprenticeship in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Anjou" title="105">Anjou</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> So yeah I’d say the <glossary term="Languedoc" title="579">Languedoc</glossary> and then the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Loire Valley" title="602">Loire</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p><strong>We touched on your beginnings in Anjou. Can you run us through the evolution of the estate over the years?</strong></p>
<p>I started in 2002 with 2.5 <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> In 2006 I got to 4.5 <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> which grew to five <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> by 2008. Then in 2010, I met a young man who was ready to invest in vines but didn’t want to start as full-time <glossary term="Vigneron/Vignaiolo" title="1089">vigneron</glossary> for a few years, so he needed someone to farm it in the interim. It was a <glossary term="Plot" title="1133">plot</glossary> of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Gamay" title="478">Gamay</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary term="Pineau d'Aunis" title="799">Pineau d’Aunis</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Cabernet Franc" title="216">Cabernet Franc</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Up until then, I basically made all white wine, with the <glossary term="Grolleau" title="513">Grolleau</glossary> destined for sweet <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Rosé/Rosato" title="871">rosé</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p>Fellow <glossary term="Vigneron/Vignaiolo" title="1089">vignerons</glossary> told me that making red wine was a good opportunity; at the time in France, you’d sell three bottles of red for every bottle of white. But I still wasn’t convinced about making red wine: in fact it strayed from my original vision. In the end I rather enjoyed the experience, particularly with <glossary term="Gamay" title="478">Gamay</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Pineau d'Aunis" title="799">Pineau d’Aunis</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> I worked those vines from 2010 to 2020. The guy eventually decided not to become a <glossary term="Vigneron/Vignaiolo" title="1089">vigneron</glossary> and sold the vines to a young upstart for the 2021 <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvest</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p>Since I knew I wasn’t going to be able to use those vines anymore and had built a reputation for my reds, I’d been actively seeking out new <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcels</glossary> to buy. I was able to find a good amount of land, some bare, some where I had to rip out and replant. I’ve planted or replanted mostly <glossary term="Pineau d'Aunis" title="799">Pineau d’Aunis,</glossary> but also more <glossary term="Chenin Blanc" title="281">Chenin</glossary> in certain sectors. In 2017, I jumped to nine <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> then in 2021 I bought another <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectare</glossary> and currently find myself farming 10. But much of surface consists of very young vines as I had to rip out and replant a lot. Some are just really starting to produce. It’s been a huge amount of work.</p>
<p><strong>Are you certified organic?</strong></p>
<p>I’ve been <glossary term="Organic Certification" title="260">certified</glossary> <glossary term="Organic" title="746">organic</glossary> since the very beginning.</p>
<p><strong>Can you give us a breakdown of the grapes you farm?</strong></p>
<p>I farm six <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Chenin Blanc" title="281">Chenin Blanc</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> with an additional <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectare</glossary> of <glossary term="Chenin Blanc" title="281">Chenin</glossary> planted in vines too young to produce. Then there is one <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectare</glossary> of <glossary term="Cabernet Franc" title="216">Cabernet Franc</glossary> with a tiny bit of <glossary term="Cabernet Sauvignon" title="217">Cabernet Sauvignon</glossary> (which I plan to rip out and replant at some point). There is 0.5 <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Grolleau" title="513">Grolleau Gris</glossary><span>, 0.5 <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary></span></span></span><span class="zalup"><span> </span></span>of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Savagnin" title="922">Savagnin</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> 1.5 <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Pineau d'Aunis" title="799">Pineau d’Aunis</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> <glossary term="Grolleau" title="513">Grolleau</glossary> and <glossary term="Gamay" title="478">Gamay</glossary> are about two <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p>Then there is the <glossary term="Négociant" title="729">négociant</glossary> project which comes from a nearby two <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> of red grapes planted on <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Loam" title="1291">loamy</glossary><span>-</span></span></span><glossary term="Clay" title="301">clay</glossary> soils.</p>
<p><strong>What about the evolution of the cuvées? Was the focus always on single vineyard wines?</strong></p>
<p>I’ve been doing <glossary term="Single Vineyard Bottling" title="959">single-parcel</glossary> wines from the beginning. For me it was pretty important. But over the years and when faced with difficult <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintages</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> I’ve sometimes felt obliged to combine <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcels</glossary> together (ex: La Roche-Bézigon).</p>
<p>In 2005, I started making Bézigon. Then La Roche, then Les Tailles, which is the name of the <glossary term="Lieu-Dit" title="594">lieu-dit</glossary> where the <glossary term="Cabernet Franc" title="216">Cabernet</glossary> is planted. Then Rouchefert, and finally Justices and 13 Vents, the latter two planted in the neighboring village of Saint-Aubin-de-Luigné.</p>
<p><strong>Who were your first customers?</strong></p>
<p>Parisians! I participated in some of the very first <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Dive Bouteille" title="395">Dive Bouteilles</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> and that’s where I created my network of Paris <glossary term="Caviste" title="253">cavistes</glossary> and restaurants. There was already a lot of bistros serving these types of wines at the time.</p>
<p>My first importer was Japan. No surprise there!</p>
<p><strong>What inspired your labels?</strong></p>
<p>The snake is the Ouroboros, a famous symbol, one of the first symbols of civilization. It’s similar to the ying and the yang, the cycle of the seasons repeating themselves.</p>
<p><strong>When did you decide to stop making appellation wine?</strong></p>
<p>In 2006. I made <glossary term="Appellation" title="113">appellation</glossary> wines through 2005, but found it increasingly difficult having to justify my work to the the panels. Here I am attempting to express the most transparent expression of a grape from this specific place, but was getting challenged for too much alcohol, too much color, that I refused to <glossary term="Chaptalisation" title="270">chaptalize</glossary>… It felt so out of touch.</p>
<p>2006 was also the first year I’d gone 100% with no <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Sulfites" title="993">S02</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> and based on past experience I knew there was absolutely no point presenting my wines. Honestly, I am still vexed that the <glossary term="AOC" title="108">AOC</glossary> cares so little about people like me who prioritize farming and expressing <glossary term="Terroir" title="1026">terroir</glossary> to the best of their ability.</p>
<p><strong>Having been part of those early Dive Bouteilles, how do you feel about the state of our little world of wine in 2024?</strong></p>
<p>Overall I think we’ve seen some truly great progress in the last 20 or so years. I do however feel that the bubble has burst. What represented something new (of course nothing is ever truly new), an alternative path to <glossary term="Viticulture" title="1103">viticulture</glossary> and winemaking 20 years ago ended up not being just a little ripple, but a tidal wave in moving things forward.</p>
<p>Think about all the <glossary term="Cave Cooperative" title="252">cooperators</glossary> who broke away and started producing their own wines. The children of <glossary term="Vigneron/Vignaiolo" title="1089">vignerons</glossary> who took a complete 180 from past generations. The young people coming from totally unrelated fields to start wineries. It’s incredible! But this boom cycle had to end at some point. The sheer amount of events taking place around the <glossary term="Dive Bouteille" title="395">Dive Bouteille</glossary> this year proves to me that being visible and commercially viable is becoming increasingly difficult.</p>
<p><strong>It’s true. Five years ago, I felt there was this almost infinite, utopia-like energy going around. That consumers were so welcoming and excited for this type of philosophy, and that there was infinite room for things to keep evolving positively. It was beautiful and inspiring.</strong></p>
<p>I agree. But as we see now, it was relatively naif and there were some major missteps along the way. Many completely stopped caring about the quality of the wines themselves. In my early days, I made a lot of mistakes and learned from those; it was a given that there were certain things you just couldn’t bottle and sell. And that helped me get better.</p>
<p>In the past few years, you could really taste the lack of experience in some of these newer wineries. And of course that created tensions, as no one was really checking these producers. A lot of these wines weren’t sold on much merit other than being <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Natural WIne" title="708">natural</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p>But again, I think we come out of this richer. Because we explored and pushed those boundaries. So yes, the bubble has burst. But we’ve gained experience. Overall, more good wine is being made, and people are always going to want to drink good wine. It may just be impossible to taste or drink and sell them all!</p>
La Petite Empreinte Producer Profile
La Petite Empreinte Producer Profile
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producer profile
<p>La Petite Empreinte, or “the little footprint” is an <glossary term="Estate" title="427">estate</glossary> that truly lives up to its name. Founded by Mélissa Bazin with the help of her husband Romain De Moor in 2020, together the couple work a whopping two <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> of vines from A to Z, producing very limited quantities of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Pinot Noir" title="805">Pinot Noir</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary term="Gamay" title="478">Gamay</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Sauvignon Blanc" title="927">Sauvignon Blanc</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p>After meeting and falling in love during respective apprenticeships in the <glossary term="Jura" title="560">Jura</glossary> (Julien Labet for Mélissa and Jean-François Ganevat for Romain), the couple agreed to move back to <glossary term="Burgundy" title="212">Burgundy</glossary> so Romain could join his parents Alice and Olivier at their eponymous <glossary term="Estate" title="427">estate</glossary> in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Chablis" title="262">Chablis</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Always set on doing her own thing, Mélissa set forth to find some <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcels</glossary> to work on her own. Through a program designed to help young producers find land to start their own <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Estate" title="427">estates</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> she was able start renting <glossary term="Plot" title="1133">plots</glossary> in 2020, eventually purchasing the vines in 2022.</p>
<p>The first and largest sector consists of two <glossary term="Plot" title="1133">plots</glossary> totaling one <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectare</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> all planted in 1990. Located in <glossary term="Saint-Bris" title="979">Saint-Bris</glossary> on an idyllic <glossary term="Coteau" title="345">coteau</glossary> of <glossary term="Kimmeridgian" title="565">Kimmeridgian</glossary> <glossary term="Limestone" title="596">limestone</glossary> overlooking the Yonne river, <glossary term="Pinot Noir" title="805">Pinot Noir</glossary> is the main variety planted here, along with 10 <glossary term="Are" title="1208">ares</glossary> of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Gamay" title="478">Gamay</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Two wines are produced from this land: a <glossary term="Pinot Noir" title="805">Pinot</glossary> called “Mas a Tierra” and a <glossary term="Magnum" title="617">magnum</glossary> only <glossary term="Cuvée" title="363">cuvée</glossary> of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Gamay" title="478">Gamay</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> For the latter, a single <glossary term="Barrel" title="142">barrel</glossary> is produced each <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintage</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> </p>
<p>The second <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcel</glossary> consists of 40 <glossary term="Are" title="1208">ares</glossary> of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Pinot Noir" title="805">Pinot Noir</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> from which they produce the <glossary term="Cuvée" title="363">cuvée</glossary> “Tapis Rouge”. The vines here are <glossary term="Exposition" title="430">exposed</glossary> full South and were planted in 1978 on a steep <glossary term="Coteau" title="345">coteau</glossary> of <glossary term="Portlandian" title="1398">Portlandian</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Limestone" title="596">limestone</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> In addition, a yet-to-be released <glossary term="Saint-Bris" title="979">Saint-Bris</glossary> is produced from two small <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Plot" title="1133">plots</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> the first 30 years old and <glossary term="Exposition" title="430">exposed</glossary> West, the other planted in 1959 on white <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Clay" title="301">clay</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary term="Exposition" title="430">exposed</glossary> North and very low producing due to <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Court Noué" title="1250">court noué</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p>Bazin and De Moor, in addition to raising two young daughters and Romain working full time with his parents, do 100% of the work and currently have no employees. Mélissa is responsable for the manual work in the vines <span class="zalup"><span>(<glossary term="Pruning" title="834">pruning</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary term="Green Harvest" title="507">green harvest</glossary>…) with Romain doing the tractor work. The vines are <glossary term="Organic Certification" title="260">certified organic</glossary> or in <glossary term="Conversion" title="332">conversion</glossary> towards <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Organic Certification" title="260">certification</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> <glossary term="Cover Crop" title="1255">Cover crops</glossary> have been incorporated since 2021 and, like Alice and Olivier in Chablis, they have been planting fruit trees in the vines to encourage <glossary term="Biodiversity" title="1162">biodiversity</glossary> and break up the <glossary term="Monoculture" title="671">monoculture</glossary> of <glossary term="Viticulture" title="1103">viticulture</glossary>/create stronger rhizome networks in the soil.</p>
<p>In the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> the couple work off instinct and communally make all <glossary term="Vinification" title="1104">vinification</glossary> decisions together. <glossary term="Maceration" title="610">Maceration</glossary> lengths, <glossary term="Pigeage/Punchdown" title="795">pigeages</glossary>/<glossary term="Remontage/Pumping Over" title="850">remontages</glossary> (or lack thereof) have varied each <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintage</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> but the wines all <glossary term="Fermentation" title="441">ferment</glossary> and <glossary term="Aging" title="74">age</glossary> in <glossary term="Old Oak" title="739">old barrels</glossary> with no <glossary term="Sulfites" title="993">S02</glossary> is added at any point. Everything is currently <glossary term="Vinification" title="1104">vinified</glossary> in the De Moor <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> but Mélissa and Romain are in the process constructing their own, in all likelihood for the 2025 <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintage</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
Colvert Producer Profile
Colvert Producer Profile
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producer profile
<p>Getting his start in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Burgundy" title="212">Burgundy</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> Marc Kemlin found his love for <glossary term="Viticulture" title="1103">viticulture</glossary> while working at a family friend's<font color="#7b143e"><b> <glossary term="Estate" title="427">estate</glossary> in <glossary term="Chassagne-Montrachet" title="275">Chassagne-Montrachet</glossary></b></font>. While passionate and dedicated to the work in the vines, Kemlin found himself increasingly heartbroken seeing each year's work <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Pressing" title="827">pressed</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary term="Yeast" title="1128">yeasted</glossary> and sent to <glossary term="Négociant" title="729">négociants</glossary> the next day. He'd hit a wall, and when his wife Fanny admitted that she found it hard to integrate herself socially and professionally in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Burgundy" title="212">Burgundy</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> it was time to for a change. Ready to start a family, the two agreed to move to the city of Aix-en-Provence where Fanny had grown up. Continuing to work in wine, Marc went from <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">micro-parcels</glossary><span class="zalup"><span><font color="#7b143e"><b> <glossary term="Vinification" title="1104">vinified</glossary></b></font></span></span> in <glossary term="Burgundian" title="210">Burgundian</glossary> <glossary term="Barrel" title="142">barrels</glossary> to production-centric chateaux centered on massive quantities of commercial <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Rosé/Rosato" title="871">rosé</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> The culture shock of <glossary term="Provence" title="831">Provence</glossary> was real.</p>
<p>While continuing to <glossary term="Vinification" title="1104">vinifiy</glossary> huge <glossary term="Vat/Tank" title="1140">vats</glossary> of mediocre <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Rosé/Rosato" title="871">rosé</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> Marc felt increasingly pulled towards starting his own, small-scale <glossary term="Artisinal" title="122">artisanal</glossary> project. Serendipitously, Fanny's family happened to own a sprawling <glossary term="Estate" title="427">estate</glossary> called Domaine des Ribières just 30 minutes north of Aix-en-Provence. The property is breathtakingly beautiful but also a unique <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Terroir" title="1026">terroir</glossary><span>:</span></span></span> tucked away in the Ribières valley with no neighbors, the <glossary term="Estate" title="427">estate</glossary> sits at 350 meters <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Elevation" title="419">elevation</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> quite high for the region. The soils consist of <glossary term="Silt" title="956">silty</glossary> <glossary term="Clay" title="301">clay</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Limestone" title="596">limestone</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> with one sector <glossary term="Exposition" title="430">exposed</glossary> south and the other north. A little river at the edge of the property brings freshness and contributes to a <glossary term="Microclimate" title="656">micro-climate</glossary> that protects from <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Frost" title="1135">frost</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> In other words, good stuff!</p>
<p>Vines had been planted at Ribières 70 years prior, but the land had long been used to grow cereals. Knowing that that replanting would take a lot of time, money and effort, Kemlin decided to in the interim start a collaborative project with his friend Pierre Rochard of the fantastic bistro Les Vieilles Canailles in Aix-en-Provence. Dubbed Colvert over many nights of eating and drinking, the plan was to find a space outside of the city that would double as a restaurant and winery. Things were well under way, including a delicious, <glossary term="Sulfites" title="993">unsulfured</glossary> <glossary term="Négociant" title="729">négociant</glossary> <glossary term="Cuvée" title="363">cuvée</glossary> of <glossary term="Vermentino" title="1081">Rolle</glossary> dubbed "R/C" that blew our minds the first time we tried it. But the pandemic upended everything, forcing Rochard to pivot to catering and making the partnership untenable. Undeterred, Kemlin bought out his partner and continued the Colvert project as a solo endeavor. </p>
<p>Starting with a plantation of <glossary term="Grenache" title="508">Grenache Noir</glossary> in 2019, Marc has progressively planted roughly half a <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectare</glossary> every year, now totalling four <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> at the time of this writing. Along with the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Grenache" title="508">Grenache</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vermentino" title="1081">Rolle</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary term="Cinsault" title="1188">Cinsault</glossary> and <glossary term="Roussanne" title="878">Roussanne</glossary> now grow in Domaine des Ribières' soils. Marc estimates he could plant up to 10 <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> but is hesitant, as he feels adamant about meticulously working his land from A to Z.</p>
<p><i>"For me, touching every vine is like reading the land. You can have someone give you a summary of a book and know what happened, but you have to read it yourself to create your own images and ideas from it. I love planting each vine, </i><glossary term="Pruning" title="834"><em>pruning</em></glossary><i> each vine, doing the </i><glossary term="Green Harvest" title="507"><em>green harvest</em></glossary><i>, taking care of them… Only that way can I learn and understand how my actions will affect my work. To me it’s a powerful exchange."</i></p>
<p>Uninspired by the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Rosé/Rosato" title="871">rosé</glossary><span>-</span></span></span>centric Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="AOC" title="108">AOC</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> Kemlin has decided to pass his entire production to <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vin de France" title="1092">Vin de France</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Passionate about white wine from his time in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Burgundy" title="212">Burgundy</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> Marc's focus is principally on white wine production, including atypical <glossary term="Blanc de Noirs" title="166">blanc de noirs</glossary> from <glossary term="Grenache" title="508">Grenache</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Cinsault" title="1188">Cinsault</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> As whites only represent 4% of <glossary term="Provence" title="831">Provencal</glossary> wine production, Kemlin freely admits it's also a way to be creative and to distinguish himself in a competitive, saturated market:</p>
<p><em>"90% of the time, when I taste a white wine from </em><glossary term="Provence" title="831"><em>Provence</em></glossary><em>, it’s </em><glossary term="Yeast" title="1128"><em>yeasted</em></glossary><em> and smells like peach and kiwi. You smell it and you don’t even want to taste it. I love white wine and decided it would be my goal to make excellent white wine from </em><glossary term="Provence" title="831"><em>Provence</em></glossary><em>. It’s also interesting because it really goes against anything being made in the region. My land finds itself within the Coteaux d’Aix-en Provence </em><glossary term="AOC" title="108"><em>AOC</em></glossary><em>, but from the beginning I decided I’d make everything in </em><glossary term="Vin de France" title="1092"><em>Vin de France</em></glossary><em>. This gives me a freedom to be creative, but also to learn."</em></p>
<p>2022 was the first vintage produced from Marc's young plantations, resulting in two <glossary term="Estate" title="427">estate</glossary> wines: a 100% <glossary term="Vermentino" title="1081">Rolle</glossary> and the aformentioned <glossary term="Blanc de Noirs" title="166">blanc de noirs</glossary> from <glossary term="Grenache" title="508">Grenache, </glossary>with a 100% <glossary term="Chardonnay" title="271">Chardonnay</glossary> of purchased <glossary term="Organic" title="746">organic</glossary> grapes from the <glossary term="Luberon" title="1489">Luberon</glossary> rounding out the lineup. At this point, he in debating whether to if he'll permit himself to buy grapes in future <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintages</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> </p>
<p>Despite the vines being very young, Marc's vision, passion and attention to detail shines through in the bottle. These are one of kind wines made against the grain in a region bogged down by standardization. And they are only going to get better as the vines sink their roots deeper into the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Mother Rock" title="690">mother rock</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> </p>
<p>For even more information about Marc and the Colvert project, please read his interview. </p>
Colvert Interview
This interview with Marc Kemlin took place in May, 2024
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interview
<p><strong>Where are you originally from and how did you end up in wine?</strong></p>
<p>I grew up between Saint-Etienne and Roanne, about an hour west of Lyon. My parents were farmers, who mostly grew corn and cereals but also took care of roughly 100 <glossary term="Charolais" title="274">Charolais</glossary> cows. So I grew up in agriculture and cattle raising. But didn’t love working with livestock. And while interested in working with the land, I found no passion working with cereals. I worked with my parents in my youth but never had any intention of taking over the farm. </p>
<p>My connection to wine starts with with friends of my parents, <glossary term="Vigneron/Vignaiolo" title="1089">vignerons</glossary> who owned an <glossary term="Estate" title="427">estate</glossary> in <glossary term="Chassagne-Montrachet" title="275">Chassagne-Montrachet</glossary> called Domaine Duc de Magenta. It was two hours from the house, and every year we’d go do <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvest</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> So I was exposed to the vines at a very early age. I very quickly found a passion for this type of work: the fact that you are simultaneously a farmer, a chemist and a business person all at once... When I was younger, there was also this almost noble thing about wine: beautiful bottles on a properly set table, <glossary term="Sommelier" title="969">sommeliers</glossary> talking about it, etc… It all felt very poetic. So little by little I shifted into the universe of wine.</p>
<p><strong>Take us through those beginnings.</strong></p>
<p>My higher education was in sales, marketing and business in Lyon. This was the classic “make your farmer parents happy” move they so often want for their children. After that, I spent a year in Australia where I worked as a <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Sommelier" title="969">sommelier</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> I barely had any money, so I began taking fruit picking jobs on top of the restaurant work, eventually landing me in the Adelaide hills picking grapes. It was a rekindling of sorts with the vines, and when I got back to France I decided to forego working in restaurants to head back to <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Burgundy" title="212">Burgundy</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p>I then studied <glossary term="Viticulture" title="1103">viticulture</glossary> and winemaking in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Beaune" title="154">Beaune</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> While studying, I lived with my family friends in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Chassagne-Montrachet" title="275">Chassagne</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Unpaid, I started working there in tandem: <glossary term="Pruning" title="834">pruning</glossary> the vines, <glossary term="Green Harvest" title="507">green harvest</glossary>… When <glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvest</glossary> came around, I had plenty of free time so I helped out there as well. That turned into five years.</p>
<p>It was interesting because I found myself treating the <glossary term="Estate" title="427">estate</glossary> like it was my own, but of course it wasn’t. I was so emotionally invested; one thing that started to hurt me was the fact that we worked really well in the vines year-round only to <glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvest</glossary> and <glossary term="Pressing" title="827">press</glossary> grapes so that big <glossary term="Négociant" title="729">négociants</glossary> could come and pick up the juices the next day. I kept pushing for us to keep grapes to make our own <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Chassagne-Montrachet" title="275">Chassagne-Montrachet</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Puligny-Montrachet" title="840">Puligny-Montrachet</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Auxey-Duresses" title="130">Auxey-Duresses</glossary><span>, </span></span></span><glossary term="Meursault" title="1370">Meursault</glossary>… all these beautiful <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Appellation" title="113">appellations</glossary><span>!</span></span></span></p>
<p>I was in love with wine, but I’d also fallen in love with a woman while studying in Lyon. She was from <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Provence" title="831">Provence</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> and in those early years she agreed to live with me in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Burgundy" title="212">Burgundy</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Very quickly, she told me that living in the <glossary term="Côte de Beaune" title="368">Côte de Beaune</glossary> or <glossary term="Côte d'Or" title="367">Côte d’Or</glossary> is a hard place to integrate yourself when you aren’t professionally connected to it. So we decided to move to <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Provence" title="831">Provence</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> living in the city of Aix-en-Provence.</p>
<p>In <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Provence" title="831">Provence</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> I discovered a new world of <glossary term="Viticulture" title="1103">viticulture</glossary> and winemaking. I went from small <glossary term="Burgundian" title="210">Burgundian</glossary> <glossary term="Barrel" title="142">barrels</glossary> to huge 250<glossary term="hl/ha" title="528">hl</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vat/Tank" title="1140">vats</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary term="Vinification" title="1104">vinifying</glossary> 5000 <glossary term="Hectoliter" title="524">hectoliters</glossary> at a time. Sadly, I was not thrilled by this world. It felt hierarchical, production driven and highly delineated: the vines and the <glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary> (if you can even call it that) were viewed as entirely different things. So was the commercial aspect of selling the wines.</p>
<p> I had to make a living, so I continued to work at a big chateau. Throughout, I felt increasingly pulled towards starting my own, small and <glossary term="Artisan" title="121">artisanal</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Estate" title="427">estate</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p><strong>Tell us about that.</strong></p>
<p>My wife Fanny has family land in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Provence" title="831">Provence</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> It’s a beautiful place, and before moving here this is where we'd spend our weekends. Vines had been planted on the property 70 years prior, but in the interim the land had been used for various cereals. Because it had been so long, bringing it back to <glossary term="Viticulture" title="1103">viticulture</glossary> was an arduous juridic process. When we got it back, I produced hay to restore the soils but also to make a little bit of pocket change selling it off. All the while, I kept my salaried position at a larger winery where I was <glossary term="Vinification" title="1104">vinifying</glossary> massive amounts of mediocre <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Rosé/Rosato" title="871">rosé</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p>In 2019, I started planting half a <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectare</glossary> every year. Today, in 2024, we are at four <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> of vines. My first <glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintage</glossary> from my own vines was 2022, and today -though I'm not making any money yet!- it’s my full-time activity. We started with 3000 bottles as a négoce, then 6000 in 2022, 8000 in 2023 and in 2024 we’ll be at 15 000 bottles.</p>
<p><strong>When I first met you you had started the Colvert project with négociant cuvées. Will you continue to purchase grapes to supplement the estate’s production?</strong></p>
<p>I started the Colvert project before planting a single vine. It was with a restaurateur friend, Pierre Rochard of Les Vieilles Canailles in Aix-en-Provence. He’s a super talented guy and loves wine. Our original idea was to find a space about 10km outside of Aix where we could have both a restaurant and a winery in the same place. But the pandemic upended our plans; he was forced to pivot to take-out buisness and that took up all of his time. We also couldn’t find an existing space or land to build the space outside of the city, so in the end we amicably ended our partnership. He stayed focused on his restaurant, I bought out his shares and refocused my business as a single proprietor.</p>
<p>To answer the <glossary term="Négociant" title="729">négoce</glossary> question, yes my first Colvert wines were with purchased fruit; the idea was to “practice” making wines in my new <glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary> until the young vines came into production. But considering that my small cellar, which can hold a maximum of 200hl is totally full in 2023, I couldn’t buy fruit even if I want to.</p>
<p><strong>But would you continue to buy fruit?</strong></p>
<p>I’m debating if I want to shift to being purely a <glossary term="Vigneron/Vignaiolo" title="1089">vigneron</glossary> or to keep my <glossary term="Négociant" title="729">négociant</glossary> status. There is a negative perception of <glossary term="Négociant" title="729">négoce</glossary> and I get it. But it can be fun to to buy grapes from friends. For example, I LOVE <glossary term="Chardonnay" title="271">Chardonnay</glossary> but didn’t plant any myself. I know someone with nice <glossary term="Chardonnay" title="271">Chardonnay</glossary> in the <glossary term="Luberon" title="1489">Luberon</glossary> and had originally planned to form a long-term relationship with them. But they just had <glossary term="Frost" title="1135">frost</glossary> this year, so who knows?</p>
<p>When you grow your own grapes, even in tough years you know what you’re getting yourself into. Buying grapes imposes a whole new dimension of different parameters.</p>
<p><strong>What does Colvert mean?</strong></p>
<p>Where we live is called Domaine des Ribières. It would have been a lot simpler to name the <glossary term="Estate" title="427">estate</glossary> that! But when we were starting the project with my ex-partner, with this idea of of a winery attached to a restaurant, it was a whole other concept.</p>
<p>The name came many nights of eating and drinking. A “col” is what we call a bottle in France, and we liked the idea of adding green wax on each bottle. That’s the simplest aspect of the name.</p>
<p>A colvert is also that beautiful green-headed duck (<strong>ed note:</strong> a mallard in English). At one point we had the idea of doing something cartoony to represent the <span class="zalup"><span> <glossary term="Estate" title="427">estate</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> something more viral than what the <glossary term="Wine Label" title="573">labels</glossary> ended up being.</p>
<p>The name of the Saint-Etienne football team, who I am a die-hard fan of, is also colloquially known as Les Verts as they wear green jerseys.</p>
<p>Finally, and this is the craziest anecdote because I found out about it after having chosen the name, but my mother-in-law informed me that "colvert" was her late husband’s nickname. So it also serves as a little homage to him. I’d like to think he’d be happy seeing this land being worked full time again.</p>
<p>Especially with that last part about my father-in-law, the name really felt like destiny. It may not resonate at all to non French speakers, but I like it!</p>
<p><strong>When I visited, I was taken aback by the beauty of the Domaine des Ribières property. Could you describe it in your own words?</strong></p>
<p>First we have to talk about where we are situated, the Ribières valley. We are right next to the village of Rognes, in direction of the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Luberon" title="1489">Luberon</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> We are at about 350 meters <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Elevation" title="419">elevation</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> which is quite high for the area. There are heights that reach to 450 meters, from which you have stunning views of the Sainte-Victoire mountain. From there, you plunge back down into the Ribières valley. When you come to Domaine des Ribières for the first time, I think it’s hard not to feel its beauty. The sky feels particularly blue, the earth is tinted red from <span class="zalup"><span> <glossary term="Iron" title="547">iron</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> there are no neighbors…</p>
<p>As far as the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Terroir" title="1026">terroirs</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> we are on <glossary term="Silt" title="956">silty</glossary> <glossary term="Clay" title="301">clay</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Limestone" title="596">limestone</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> One sector faces south, the other north. There is a little river at the edge of the property that brings us some freshness. And while many of our friends are vulnerable to <glossary term="Frost" title="1135">frost</glossary> if temperatures get to below 1.5, here we are always spared due to our specific <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Microclimate" title="656">micro-climate</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> These factors really make me feel like we were actually onto something when we decided to start the project here.</p>
<p>Maybe this is irrational, or perhaps it’s hard to explain, but when I’m here I feel connected to the land. I can feel that these vines are going to give me good grapes. And of course this isn’t without trials and tribulations. For example, our first plantation was a bit of a disaster. I took a <glossary term="Burgundian" title="210">Burgundian</glossary> approach by foregoing <glossary term="Irrigation" title="549">irrigation</glossary> and it was a real fiasco. That was a big lesson.</p>
<p>I’ve also started working with a <glossary term="Pépiniériste" title="773">pépineriste</glossary> I like; it’s hard to know what works or doesn’t since there haven’t been vines here in almost two generations. So far I’m very happy: I’m not sure if it’s him, if it’s me or if it’s the climate, but I’m learning. Now that we have a bit of experience, we’re going to be able to concentrate even more on the vegetal well-being of the vines. I don’t want these them to live 10 or 20 years. I want them still here when I’m gone.</p>
<p><strong>Let’s talk about the grapes you’ve planted so far and what you plan on planting in coming years.</strong></p>
<p>I started this project with the knowledge that making wine is expensive and you need to distinguish yourself to make a mark. 90% of the time, when I taste a white wine from <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Provence" title="831">Provence</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> it’s <glossary term="Inoculation" title="542">yeasted</glossary> and smells like peach and kiwi. You smell it and you don’t even want to taste it. I love white wine and decided it would be my goal to make excellent white wine from <span class="zalup"><span> <glossary term="Provence" title="831">Provence</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p>And yet my very first plantation was <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Grenache" title="508">Grenache Noir</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> My reasoning was that I’d make some <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Rosé/Rosato" title="871">rosé</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> sell it quickly to fund the growth of the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Estate" title="427">estate</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> I never ended up making a <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Rosé/Rosato" title="871">rosé</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> but rather a <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Blanc de Blancs" title="165">blanc de noir</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> People like them and I like them! It’s made like any white: <glossary term="Direct Press" title="392">direct-press</glossary> and long <glossary term="Elevage" title="418">elevage</glossary> on the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Lees" title="590">lees</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> So of course I’m not making quick sales from this wine because it requires time to <glossary term="Aging" title="74">age</glossary> in <glossary term="Barrel" title="142">barrel</glossary> and in bottle.</p>
<p>It’s also interesting because it really goes against anything being made in the region. My land finds itself within the Coteaux d’Aix-en Provence <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="AOC" title="108">AOC</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> but from the beginning I decided I’d make everything in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vin de France" title="1092">Vin de France</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> This gives me a freedom to be creative, but also to learn.</p>
<p>But let me actually answer your question! So I started with <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Grenache" title="508">Grenache</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> then planted some <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vermentino" title="1081">Rolle</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> then some <glossary term="Cinsault" title="1188">Cinsault</glossary> (with a <glossary term="Blanc de Noirs" title="166">blanc de noirs</glossary> and a light red being produced from this grape in the 2023 <glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintage</glossary>), then some more <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vermentino" title="1081">Rolle</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> In this first phase, I wanted to plant only grapes that are allowed in the <glossary term="Appellation" title="113">appellation</glossary> as a sort of safeguard. Since then I’ve planted a little less than a <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectare</glossary> of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Roussanne" title="878">Roussanne</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> which is not allowed in the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Appellation" title="113">appellation</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p>The rest is still unwritten.We won’t plant in in 2024, but I’ll plant another half <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectare</glossary> in 2025. I’m not sure what it will be yet, as that will depend on the vegetal material available to me when it’s time to plant. But I’m also in the process of getting the permits to build a larger <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Another major investment!</p>
<p><strong>When I visited in summer of 2023, you pointed out that while you planned to keep planting, you wanted to keep it to a size where you could still touch every vine yourself. How many hectares do you envision planting total?</strong></p>
<p>For me, touching every vine is like reading the land. You can have someone give you a summary of a book and know what happened, but you have to read it yourself to create your own images and ideas from it. I love planting each vine, <glossary term="Pruning" title="834">pruning</glossary> each vine, doing the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Green Harvest" title="507">green harvest</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> taking care of them… Only that way can I learn and understand how my actions will affect my work. To me it’s a powerful exchange.</p>
<p>If I limit to myself to being alone, or at least with my wife (who has a full time job), having more than five <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> is complicated. But to justify building a larger <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> it might mean needing to double that surface. For now I’m not sure what that looks like: maybe I can have another young <glossary term="Vigneron/Vignaiolo" title="1089">vigneron</glossary> join me on these <glossary term="Terroir" title="1026">terroirs</glossary>… But there is plenty of time to see what happens.</p>
<p><strong>What about your approach in the cellar?</strong></p>
<p>When I was in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Burgundy" title="212">Burgundy</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> the <glossary term="Must" title="700">musts</glossary> were followed by a local <glossary term="Enology" title="422">enologist</glossary> before being picked up by <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Négociant" title="729">négociants</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> The wines were completely <glossary term="Conventional Farming" title="331">conventional</glossary> and of little interest to me. I remember them being masked by <glossary term="Wood" title="1126">wood</glossary> and marked by <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Sulfites" title="993">sulfur</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> When I got to <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Provence" title="831">Provence</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> it was all about "classic" <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Rosé/Rosato" title="871">rosé</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p>But I’ve always had a network of retailer, restaurateur and <glossary term="Vigneron/Vignaiolo" title="1089">vigneron</glossary> friends with whom we’d taste more authentic wines. When it was time to make my own wine, not once did it cross my mind to use <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Commercial Yeast" title="321">commercial yeast</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> I also have an intolerance to <glossary term="Sulfites" title="993">sulfur</glossary> that makes me sneeze, but for me it’s more an ethical choice, a way to move away from the chemical over-reliance of bigger agriculture. My grandfather passed away from constant exposure to <glossary term="Phytosanitary" title="789">phytosanitary</glossary> products. I understand it felt like progress at the time, but today it’s very outdated.</p>
<p>The problem we have here in Aix-en-Provence is that farmers realized grapes pay better than cereals. And they work vines like they worked cereal, pumping them for maximum production through any means necessary. And now the <glossary term="Cave Cooperative" title="252">cooperatives</glossary> have too much wine!</p>
<p>My goal is not to make a lot of wine. I want to express my soils and their potential. In the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> it’s the same logic. That starts with <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Native Yeast" title="538">native yeasts</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> first and foremost. That’s what’s going to mark the wines of where they are from. Other than that, I’m very meticulous with temperature and hygiene. I prefer to not add <glossary term="Sulfites" title="993">sulfites</glossary> and have succeeded in this, but if for whatever reason a wine had not fully finished <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Fermentation" title="441">fermenting</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> I have no issue protecting it with a small dose at <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Bottling" title="185">bottling</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> as was the case for the Gn/C 2022. A big part of this is because I’m just starting and these are my first <glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintages</glossary>; too much is on the line. Maybe that will change with time and experience.</p>
Las Vedras Producer Profile
Las Vedras Producer Profile
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producer profile
<p>Sónia Raposo was working in the HR sector for a large pharmaceutical company and experiencing the inevitable corporate career angst. Concurrently, she was finding an interest in wine - visiting producers, attending consumer tastings and some <glossary term="WSET" title="1127">WSET</glossary> classes - to the point where she began teaching some of the courses. By 2012 she was also interning at wineries in <glossary term="Alentejo" title="1259">Alentejo</glossary> and elsewhere in Portugal. In 2013 she met Pedro Marques in attendance with his family <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Estate" title="427">estate</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> Vale da Capucha. From there, her interest in more honest, real wines took off. Ultimately, apart from the small things like a marriage and a family, the goal became to start a winemaking project together.</p>
<p>In the beginning, they purchased a small amount of grapes from farmers they knew worked their vineyards well to see the potential of the vines before entering a rental agreement. The project eventually evolved into their own wines under the Las Vedras (“the old ones”) label. Initally they started making the wine at Pedro’s family’s winery, but recently have moved their operation to a new <glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary> in the village of Pero Negro. At first, the couple felt a bit isolated working in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Torres Vedras" title="1486">Torres Vedras</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> as it has a reputation for high production, poor quality <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Viticulture" title="1103">viticulture</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Case in point: besides themselves and Vale da Capucha, there isn't a single <glossary term="Organic" title="746">organic</glossary> producer in the <glossary term="DOC" title="1156">DOC</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Torres Vedras" title="1486">Torres Vedras</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> With the work they are doing, however, other like-minded producers are beginning to take note and interest in the area. </p>
<p><glossary term="Torres Vedras" title="1486">Torres Vedras</glossary>, roughly an hour north of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Lisbon" title="1262">Lisbon</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> lies close at the foot of the Serra de Montejunto, the highest ridge of mountains in the Estremedura region of <glossary term="Lisbon" title="1262">Lisbon</glossary>; these act as a barrier to some of the prevailing winds, which, depending on the annual conditions, can either benefit or harm the vineyard. From this area, Sónia and Pedro work multiple vineyard sites. With these windy conditions, the <glossary term="Pruning" title="834">pruning</glossary> system is traditionally a type of short<span class="zalup"><span><span>-</span><glossary term="Pruning" title="834">pruned</glossary> </span></span><glossary term="Gobelet" title="497">goblet</glossary> called Asas de Mosca (“fly wings”) for the shape of the tying.</p>
<p>Walking distance from the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> the couple's largest <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcel</glossary> lies within the <glossary term="DOC" title="1156">DOC</glossary> of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Torres Vedras" title="1486">Torres Vedras</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> in the village of Pero Negro. At 1.5 <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Hectare" title="523">ha</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> it is comprised of smaller <glossary term="Plot" title="1133">plots</glossary> within the larger <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcel</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> indicative of what the region was before commercial production invaded. A white and a red wine named after the village, Pero Negro, are produced from this land.</p>
<p>One of the smaller plots, a <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcel</glossary> that was not previously farmed very well, is planted with the whites of <glossary term="Fernão Pires" title="1235">Fernão Pires</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Palomino" title="1487">Palomino</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> known locally as Seminario and Malvasia Rei, and the reds of <glossary term="Castelão" title="1228">Castelão</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Tinta Miuda" title="1230">Tinta Miuda</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> The paperwork on the <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcel</glossary> says it was planted in 1993, but the owner thinks it is actually 50-60 years old. They began the <glossary term="Conversion" title="332">conversion</glossary> to <glossary term="Organic" title="746">organic</glossary> in 2019.</p>
<p>From another proximate farmer, Sónia and Pedro purchase grapes that produce a wine called "Corriente". The soils here are <glossary term="Limestone" title="596">limestone</glossary> and <glossary term="Clay" title="301">clay</glossary> of oceanic origin and have a high <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="PH" title="783">PH</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> The couple has begun sowing <glossary term="Cover Crop" title="1255">cover crops</glossary> here to increase organic matter, open up the soil and drive down the <glossary term="PH" title="783">PH</glossary> level. </p>
<p>The next <span class="zalup"><span> <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcel</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> in the village of Portela do Bispo -or Bishop’s Portal- lies in between the two <glossary term="DOC" title="1156">DOC</glossary>’s of <glossary term="Torres Vedras" title="1486">Torres Vedras</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Arruda" title="1488">Arruda</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> It is a two<font color="#7b143e"><b> <glossary term="Are" title="1208">ares</glossary></b></font> <glossary term="Plot" title="1133">plot</glossary> of 80 year-old vines planted mainly with <glossary term="Tinta Miuda" title="1230">Tinta Miuda</glossary> and a bit of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Castelão" title="1228">Castelão</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Syrah" title="1001">Syrah</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Touriga Nacional" title="1229">Touriga Nacional </glossary></span></span>and some unknown white grapes. The <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcel</glossary> faces north towards the Montejunto Serras and can be exposed to some high winds. It is more of the oceanic <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Clay" title="301">clay</glossary><span>-</span></span></span><glossary term="Limestone" title="596">limestone</glossary> soil planted in verry narrow rows, since it pre-dates <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Mechanization" title="645">mechanization</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> 2020 was the first <glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintage</glossary> from this <span class="zalup"><span> <glossary term="Plot" title="1133">plot</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> yielding one 500L <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Barrel" title="142">barrel</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Like in Pero Negro, Sónia and Pedro have begun planting <glossary term="Cover Crop" title="1255">cover crops</glossary> here as well.</p>
<p>The third <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcel</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> Dois Portos, or Two Ports, is in the <glossary term="DOC" title="1156">DOC</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Torres Vedras" title="1486">Torres Vedras</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Sónia and Pedro began working this <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcel</glossary> in 2022, making a small amount of wine that year. It is again a two<font color="#7b143e"><b> <glossary term="Are" title="1208">ares</glossary></b></font> <glossary term="Plot" title="1133">plot</glossary> planted mostly to <glossary term="Tinta Miuda" title="1230">Tinta Miuda</glossary> and surrounded by stone fruit trees.</p>
<p>Sónia and Pedro are generally striving not to add any <glossary term="Sulfites" title="993">sulfites</glossary> to the process, but are not dogmatic given the current varying conditions at <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvest</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> namely rain. Right now, they have not had to add any to any of the wines, even before <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Bottling" title="185">bottling</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Four wines are currently produced:</p>
<p><strong>Vino Branco Limo: </strong>from a <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcel</glossary> planted and worked by the late Antonio Carvalho of Casal Figueira and some friends in Bombarral a bit north of Pero Negro. 40% French <glossary term="Varietal" title="1071">varietals</glossary> that Antonio planted - <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Roussanne" title="878">Roussanne</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Marsanne" title="634">Marsanne</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Sémillon" title="1003">Semillon </glossary></span></span>and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Petit Manseng" title="779">Petit Manseng</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> The rest is <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Fernão Pires" title="1235">Fernão Pires</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary term="Arinto" title="1233">Arinto</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vital" title="1429">Vital</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Short <glossary term="Maceration" title="610">skin soak</glossary> then <glossary term="Pressing" title="827">pressed</glossary> into <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Stainless Steel" title="986">stainless vats</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p><strong>Pero Negro Branco:</strong> The fruit comes from a small lower <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcel</glossary> at the bottom of the hill. <glossary term="Fernão Pires" title="1235">Fernão Pires</glossary> and <glossary term="Palomino" title="1487">Palomino</glossary> (known locally as Malvasia Rei). One day <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Maceration" title="610">maceration</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary term="Pressing" title="827">pressed</glossary> and <glossary term="Fermentation" title="441">fermented</glossary> in <glossary term="Barrel" title="142">tonneau</glossary> of 500L, then two years <glossary term="Aging" title="74">aging</glossary> in the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Barrel" title="142">barrels</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p><strong>Vinho Tinto Corriente: </strong>a traditional blend of <glossary term="Castelão" title="1228">Castelão</glossary> and <glossary term="Tinta Miuda" title="1230">Tinta Miuda</glossary> from the aforementioned neighbor’s vineyard. The grapes are all <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Whole-Cluster" title="1124">whole-cluster</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> with half going into the <glossary term="Vat/Tank" title="1140">vat</glossary> in <glossary term="Whole-Cluster" title="1124">whole-bunches</glossary> and the rest <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Foot-Treading" title="458">foot trod</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> followed by a short five to seven day <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Maceration" title="610">maceration</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> </p>
<p><strong>Pero Negro Tinto:</strong> <glossary term="Castelão" title="1228">Castelão</glossary> (<glossary term="Whole-Cluster" title="1124">whole-cluster</glossary>) and <glossary term="Tinta Miuda" title="1230">Tinta Miuda</glossary> (<glossary term="De-stemming" title="378">destemmed</glossary> as they feel this variety’s stems are not pleasing). <glossary term="Fermentation" title="441">Fermented</glossary> and <glossary term="Aging" title="74">aged</glossary> in 500L <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Barrel" title="142">barrel</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> In previous <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintages</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> the <glossary term="Aging" title="74">aging</glossary> lasted two years. Moving forward, this will change, as they think this wine should spend less time in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Wood" title="1126">wood</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> They inted the newer <glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintages</glossary> to be fresher, but <glossary term="Tinta Miuda" title="1230">Tinta Miuda</glossary> will always need more time in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Barrel" title="142">barrel</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
Les Ânes Ailés Producer Profile
Les Ânes Ailés Producer Profile
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producer profile
<p>Francesco “Kikko” Pesci grew up in Rome. While working at various restaurants, in particular the infamous wine bar Litro, he was introduced to wines that blew his mind, most notably those of Panevino in <glossary term="Sardinia" title="917">Sardinia</glossary> and Ajola in <glossary term="Umbria" title="1058">Umbria</glossary>/<span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Lazio" title="585">Lazio</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Ajola’s relative proximity to Rome led to a burgeoning friendship with its founder Jacopo Battista, in turn inspiring Kikko to make wine himself. Up for a new challenge, he found himself an apprenticeship in <glossary term="Banyuls" title="135">Banyuls</glossary> helping Manu di Vecchi Staraz at Vinyer de la Ruca. The plan was to help out for a year, but that year became two, then five… By 2022, Kikko had the opportunity to buy two <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcels</glossary> and start his own project, Les Ânes Ailés. That same year he produced his first <glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintage</glossary> as the newest member of Les 9 Caves.</p>
<p>Both of Kikko’s <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcels</glossary> are in the mountain north of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Banyuls" title="135">Banyuls-sur-Mer</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> historically a lesser planted area. Both parcels roughly equal a <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectare;</glossary></span></span> Kikko had been familiar with the first <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcel</glossary> since arriving in the area, as it used to belong to Manuel of Vinyer de la Ruca. It’s a formidable place that can only be reached by a single, winding and treacherous road. At 300 meters, its <glossary term="Elevation" title="419">elevation</glossary> is very high for the area. It’s also unique in being <glossary term="Exposition" title="430">exposed</glossary> full North and majoritarily planted in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Grenache Gris" title="1158">Grenache Gris</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> This, combined with strong year-round winds and very low<span class="zalup"><span> <glossary term="Yield" title="1129">yields</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> produce two <glossary term="Barrel" title="142">barrels</glossary> of a singular <glossary term="Cuvée" title="363">cuvée</glossary> called “Kik-Off”. Kikko plans to replant white grapes here, as he believes the <glossary term="Terroir" title="1026">terroir</glossary> is excellently suited to produce a dry white wine.</p>
<p>The second vineyard, acquired from a retiring farmer, is also <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Terrace" title="1022">terraced</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> It too has unique characteristics, namely the presence of <glossary term="Sand" title="909">sand</glossary> soils because it is next to a <glossary term="Tributary" title="1046">tributary</glossary> to a river, something very rare in the region. Compared to the gnarled old vines normally seen in <glossary term="Banyuls" title="135">Banyuls</glossary>’ <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Terrace" title="1022">terraces</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> those closest to the water are almost comically huge. The <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcel</glossary> is also shadowed by the adjacent mountain, maintaining freshness. From this land, a wine called "Ticche" is made with the traditional <glossary term="Banyuls" title="135">Banyuls</glossary> composition: the three colors of <glossary term="Grenache" title="508">Grenache</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span>(<glossary term="Grenache Blanc" title="509">Blanc</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Grenache Gris" title="1158">Gris</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary term="Grenache" title="508">Noir</glossary>) and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Carignan" title="237">Carignan</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p>Rounding out the lineup are two wines made from purchased <glossary term="Organic" title="746">organic</glossary> grapes. “Arlequin” is 80% <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Grenache Blanc" title="509">Grenache Blanc</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> 20% <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vermentino" title="1081">Vermentino</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> sourced from two <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcels</glossary> in Laroque des Albères, a 30 minute drive north of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Banyuls" title="135">Banyuls</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> “Pierrot” is 100% <glossary term="Grenache" title="508">Grenache Noir</glossary> from nearby <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Calce" title="223">Calce</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> picked a bit early and made with minimal <glossary term="Maceration" title="610">maceration</glossary> to produce an accesible wine meant to drink young.</p>
<p>Oh, and for those that are wondering: Les Ânes Ailés translates to "the winged donkeys". It's an old Italian expression, <em>gli asini volanti</em>, which implies that if you believe donkeys can fly, you are a naive fool. In a moment of personal utopianism, Kikko came up with this name based on how impossible it felt that he'd actually succeeded in starting his own project in the most unprobable of places. In this case, the donkeys actually had wings. </p>
Mattia Carfagna Producer Profile
Mattia Carfagna Producer Profile
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producer profile
<p>We first met Mattia Carfagna in 2011, when a small group of us were marooned on the island of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Giglio" title="491">Giglio</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> At the time, Mattia was working at the Altura winery with his father Francesco and cooking at their seasonal family restaurant Arcobaleno. To this day, I vividly remember the fresh anchovies he served us with the 2010, 2009 and 2008 Altura <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Ansonaco" title="106">Ansonaco</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> We’d see him again in 2015 at our New York City October trade show, then a few years later in Paris, where he’d decamped to go cook professionally. By then, he'd left the kitchen to start importing specialty Italian foods.</p>
<p>Over constant, lengthy road trips from Paris to Italy to re-up on goods, Mattia began making a habit of visiting his vignerons friends in the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Auvergne" title="128">Auvergne</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Quickly falling in love with the region, he originally envisioned having a second home there. Then, in 2019, a chance opportunity came from his friends Catherine Dumora and Manuel Duveau of L’Egrapille: having recently separated, the couple were no longer using their communal <glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary> and asked Mattia if he wanted to rent it along with some adjacent land for 250 euros a month. That same year, Mattia made a tiny amount of wine in the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Auvergne" title="128">Auvergne</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> His sister Irene poured it for us at Altura’s table during the 2020 <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Dive Bouteille" title="395">Dive Bouteille</glossary></span></span>. Our interest was piqued.</p>
<p>We’d meant to get in touch but got somewhat distracted by the pandemic and resulting lockdowns of March 2020: a time that upended and changed everyone’s life one way or the other. For Mattia, with no restaurants to sell to, his food business was done. Strapped for cash and needing to leave Paris, he and his girlfriend Chiara decamped to the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Auvergne" title="128">Auvergne</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> where for over a year they lived in Catherine and Manu’s <glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary> with no electricity, using gas burners to cook and showering without hot water. During that time, Mattia started tending the tiny <glossary term="Plot" title="1133">plots</glossary> of land he was renting as well as asking local owners if he could rent their abandoned <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcels</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Some said no, others yes. That year, Carfagna managed to start working nine tiny <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcels</glossary> owned by seven separate owners, all very old vines and previously abandoned.</p>
<p>Totaling little more than a single <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectare</glossary> combined, most of these micro<span class="zalup"><span><span>-</span><glossary term="Plot" title="1133">plots </glossary></span></span>are within a <glossary term="Cru" title="1152">cru</glossary> of the <glossary term="Auvergne" title="128">Auvergne</glossary> <glossary term="AOC" title="108">AOP</glossary> called Châteaugay. There is no <glossary term="Basalt" title="145">basalt</glossary> here, though volcanic chunks of <glossary term="Peperite" title="1485">peperite</glossary> mark the <glossary term="Clay" title="301">clay</glossary> heavy <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Terroir" title="1026">terroir</glossary><span>. One <glossary term="Plot" title="1133">plot</glossary> within </span></span></span>Châteaugay happens to be purely <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Limestone" title="596">limestone</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> and a final <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcel</glossary> in a nearby village grows on <glossary term="Basalt" title="145">basalt</glossary> soils (it's also completly surrounded by the suburban housing of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Clermont-Ferrand" title="302">Clermont-Ferrand</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> with the city visible from the vineyard). </p>
<p>An inestimable amount of work was and continues to be needed to get the land back into shape; during a January 2023 visit, we saw one <glossary term="Plot" title="1133">plot</glossary> so completely overrun by thorns and shrubbery you had to squint to see the vines. For Mattia, this is a labor of love, passion and patience - honestly, it has to be seen to be believed. From these <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Plot" title="1133">plots</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> a <glossary term="Gamay d'Auvergne" title="1308">Gamay d’Auvergne</glossary> called “Le Serail" is produced. With vines averaging 80 to 100 years old and <glossary term="Yield" title="1129">yields</glossary> at a measly 10-1<span class="zalup"><span>4<glossary term="hl/ha" title="528">hl/ha</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> production is unsurprisingly very low.</p>
<p>Knowing he could not survive producing just one wine, in 2020 Mattia reached out to <glossary term="Vigneron/Vignaiolo" title="1089">vigneron</glossary> friends across France for grapes to make supplemental <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Cuvée" title="363">cuvées</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> This landed him in the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Hérault" title="525">Hérault</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> where Jeff Coutelou helped him buy fruit. In 2022, chance struck again: through Coutelou, Mattia was able to rent 3.5 <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> in the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Languedoc" title="579">Languedoc </glossary></span></span>on the hills of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Faugères" title="1387">Faugères</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> A 3+ hour drive from Châteaugay, Coutelou’s team tends the vines year-round, with Mattia present for crucial moments like <glossary term="Pruning" title="834">pruning</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvest</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> From the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Languedoc" title="579">Languedoc</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> he mostly farms <glossary term="Viognier" title="1111">Viognier</glossary> and a smaller amount of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Grenache" title="508">Grenache Noir </glossary></span></span>and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Muscat Petits Grains" title="699">Muscat Petits Grains</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> The grapes are trucked back and <glossary term="Vinification" title="1104">vinified</glossary> in the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Auvergne" title="128">Auvergne</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> with an “Italian style” <glossary term="Maceration" title="610">macerated</glossary> white wine and a <glossary term="Grenache" title="508">Grenache</glossary>/<glossary term="Viognier" title="1111">Viognier</glossary> <glossary term="Blend" title="168">blend</glossary> produced at the time of this writing.</p>
<p>Mattia’s means in the <glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary> are limited to <glossary term="Fiberglass" title="445">fiberglass</glossary> and an an old <glossary term="Concrete" title="325">concrete</glossary> <glossary term="Vat/Tank" title="1140">tank</glossary> for the time being, though he hopes to grow and evolve the types of <glossary term="Vessel" title="1160">vessels</glossary> and <glossary term="Vinification" title="1104">vinification</glossary> techniques over time. Each year the wines are made by instinct over formula, with the names and the labels often changing to reflect the unique aspect of the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintage</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p>For more information and pictures of those crazy aformentioned vines, please read our visit recap below (COMING SOON).</p>
Tanca Nica Producer Profile
Tanca Nica Producer Profile
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producer profile
<p>In an era of increasingly homogenized, <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="post-terroir" title="1474">post-terroir</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary term="Natural WIne" title="708">natural-ish wines</glossary> that taste more of process than place, producers like Nicoletta Pecorelli and Francesco Ferreri feel like a throwback to a core, increasingly lost tenet of what drew us to this world of <glossary term="Viticulture" title="1103">viticulture</glossary> and winemaking in the first place. For us, the <glossary term="Natural WIne" title="708">natural wine</glossary> movement has always been a philosophy revolving around healthy grapes from a specific place and <glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintage</glossary> being transformed into the purest, most honest representation the farmer could achieve. We'd tasted the Tanca Nica wines and were already believers, but a recent visit confirmed Pecorelli and Ferreri's passion and dedication for the wines and island of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Pantelleria" title="759">Pantelleria</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Moreover, it showed us just how unprecedented and ambitious the Tanca Nica project actually is.</p>
<p>Before diving into the intricacies of Tanca Nica itself, let us provide some context on <glossary term="Pantelleria" title="759">Pantelleria</glossary> and its <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Viticulture" title="1103">viticulture</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> A tiny island and Italian territory 55 miles southwest of <glossary term="Sicily" title="951">Sicily</glossary> and only 35 miles from Tunisia, it's most famous for its <glossary term="DOC" title="1156">DOC</glossary> capers and sweet <glossary term="Passito" title="765">passito</glossary> wine made from <glossary term="Zibibbo" title="1131">Zibibbo</glossary> grapes. While long known to be capable of making some of the world's most captivating wines, the weather conditions do not make it easy: because of constant <glossary term="Sirocco" title="1484">Sirocco</glossary> winds year round, the vines must be <glossary term="Training System" title="1039">trained</glossary> in <glossary term="Gobelet" title="497">gobelets</glossary> just a few centimeters off the ground to avoid breakage.</p>
<p>Despite being smack-dab in the Mediterranean, <glossary term="Pantelleria" title="759">Pantelleria</glossary> lacks any natural water resources and sees little rain. In such, circular basins - concas in <glossary term="Pantelleria" title="759">Pantescan</glossary> dialect - are dug around each <glossary term="Gobelet" title="497">gobelet</glossary> to retain winter rainfall. A technique called 'pizzicatura', which lasts from bud break to <glossary term="Flowering" title="1179">flowering</glossary><span class="zalup"><span><span>,</span></span></span> involves manually breaking off the taller vine shoots to make sure that the vines grow within the concas, which then serve a double purpose of water retention and additional protection from the <glossary term="Sirocco" title="1484">Sirocco</glossary> winds. Finally, since vegetal competition is so intense, vines must be planted at low density, with traditional plantations measuring two meters by two meters. This <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Training System" title="1039">training system</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> dubbed Alberello Pantesco, dates back thousands of years and is so unique it actually received UNESCO world heritage status a few years ago! </p>
<p>World heritage or not, maintaining these vines requires painstaking manual labor for very little wine. Francesco estimates it takes 800 hours of work per <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectare</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> with <glossary term="Yield" title="1129">yields</glossary> averaging out to 20<glossary term="hl/ha" title="528">hl/h</glossary> in a normal <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintage</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> This is somewhat offset with the fact that <glossary term="Zibibbo" title="1131">Zibibbo</glossary> is one of the only varieties capable of bringing <glossary term="Second Growth" title="937">second-growth</glossary> grapes to full <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Maturation" title="639">maturity</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> but not by much (<glossary term="Second Growth" title="937">second-growth</glossary> <glossary term="Yield" title="1129">yields</glossary> average 2. <span class="zalup"><span>5<glossary term="hl/ha" title="528">hl/h</glossary></span></span>). Most of the vines are very old, and its not uncommon for their roots to have dug over six meters into the <glossary term="Mother Rock" title="690">mother rock</glossary> to find their nutrients. For those willing to put in the time, effort and passion to see it through, the <glossary term="Concentration" title="324">concentration</glossary> and flavor in the grapes is exceptional. Sadly, it's no surprise that few if any are still up for the challenge. At its height, 5000 <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> of vines were planted on <glossary term="Pantelleria" title="759">Pantelleria</glossary>'s 32.5 square miles; down to about 150 today, a good amount of those vines remain abandoned.</p>
<p>Ok, four paragraphs in and we can finally start talking about Nicoletta Pecorelli and Francesco Ferreri! Francesco is a <glossary term="Pantelleria" title="759">Pantescan</glossary> native and Nicoletta is from <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Sardinia" title="917">Sardinia</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> The two met in Milan by total chance: Nicoletta worked as a sales assistant in Turin and was in Milan that day to fly back to <glossary term="Sardinia" title="917">Sardinia</glossary> for the holidays! Once Francesco had finished his <glossary term="Enology" title="422">enology</glossary> studies in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Verona" title="1084">Verona</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> the couple moved to New Zealand to work at a company that produces <glossary term="Biodynamic Preparation" title="826">biodynamic preperation</glossary>s before returning to <glossary term="Pantelleria" title="759">Pantelleria</glossary> to start Tanca Nica in 2015. Francesco is from a long line of fisherman, but got the wine-bug in his teens working the family vines with his father and grandfather. While he'd always felt the desire to return to <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Pantelleria" title="759">Pantelleria</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> he is quick to point out it wouldn't be possible without Nicoletta: </p>
<p><em>"Tanca Nica is OUR project, not mine. Without her this would never gotten off the ground or continue to exist."</em></p>
<p>Ferreri and Pecorelli work 3.5 <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> spread over 15 <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcels</glossary> within nine <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Contrada" title="330">contradas</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> 50 <glossary term="Are" title="1208">ares</glossary> are from Francesco's family, the rest is rented from locals who don't want to see the vines go abandoned and an increasing amount of wealthy foreigners whose summer homes came with nearby vines. As they are the only <glossary term="Estate" title="427">estate</glossary> actively looking for new <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcels</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> it is actually common for them to be offered <glossary term="Plot" title="1133">plots</glossary> to rent. The couple has used this to their advantage, trading off and dropping certain areas in search of the very best <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Terroir" title="1026">terroirs</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Most are isolated by woods and were abandoned before they took them over.</p>
<p>As Francesco explained during our visit, <glossary term="Pantelleria" title="759">Pantelleria</glossary> is a tiny island but has an incredible diversity in soil compositions, <glossary term="Microclimate" title="656">micro-climates</glossary> and <glossary term="Elevation" title="419">elevation</glossary> levels. As you will discover below, the Tanca Nica project is an unprecendented exploration and celebration of this diversity. Francesco elaborates:</p>
<p><em>"Every year we seek to capture the grapes’ life in the glass, in all of its phases (with regular tasting) until we put it in bottle. Especially regarding the </em><glossary term="Cru" title="1152"><em>cru</em></glossary><em> wines, we do not add a gram of </em><glossary term="Sulfites" title="993"><em>sulfur</em></glossary><em>, not because we are dogmatic in this discourse, but because we would like the wine to express all of itself with as much aroma as possible. For this reason, the </em><glossary term="Cru" title="1152"><em>cru</em></glossary><em> wines feel tight and closed off for a longer period than the other wines, needing at least a year in bottle (a thing we cannot do because we are still not able to keep in our storage to overcome the summer heat - but it is our objective for the future.)"</em></p>
<p>In <glossary term="Pantelleria" title="759">Pantescan</glossary> dialect, the term "Tanca Nica" means small, hilly land cultivated and arranged in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Terrace" title="1022">terraces</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Each <glossary term="Terrace" title="1022">terraced</glossary> <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcel</glossary> - tanca in <span class="zalup"><span> <glossary term="Pantelleria" title="759">Pantescan </glossary><span>-</span></span></span> is <glossary term="Vinification" title="1104">vinified</glossary> individually with various amounts of <glossary term="Maceration" title="610">maceration</glossary> - one day to three weeks - depending on the <glossary term="Phenols" title="784">phenolic</glossary> <glossary term="Maturation" title="639">maturity</glossary> of the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintage</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Most are pre-destined to go into Tanca Nica's largest production, "Soki Soki". This 100% <glossary term="Zibibbo" title="1131">Zibibbo</glossary> is sourced from 11 tancas within six <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Contrada" title="330">contradas</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> each averaging 30 <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Are" title="1208">ares</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> It serves as a snapshot of the island's most common soil composition: <glossary term="Volcanic" title="1117">volcanic</glossary> <glossary term="Sand" title="909">sands</glossary> of <glossary term="Pumice" title="1482">pumice</glossary> and <glossary term="lapilli" title="1461">lapilli</glossary> known locally as Soki Soki. Meant to be accessible in its youth, the wine pops with bright fruit and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Aromatic" title="120">aromatics</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p>At a whopping 1000 bottles, the second largest production is a <glossary term="Cuvée" title="363">cuvée</glossary> called "Terra Forte". Produced from two tancas of very old vines, here the <glossary term="Zibibbo" title="1131">Zibibbo</glossary> grows on "terra forte" soils composed of <glossary term="Sand" title="909">sandy</glossary> <glossary term="Clay" title="301">clay</glossary> from degraded <glossary term="Basalt" title="145">basalt</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Obsidian" title="1483">obsidian</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> The result is a much more powerful, structured expression of <glossary term="Zibibbo" title="1131">Zibibbo</glossary> that, while keeping the grapes' trademark aromatic qualities, is more serious and age-worthy. </p>
<p>Next are four <glossary term="Cru" title="1152">cru</glossary> wines, all single-tanca expressions of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Zibibbo" title="1131">Zibibbo</glossary><span>:</span></span></span></p>
<p><em>"Since 2019, we have focused our attention on four </em><glossary term="Plot" title="1133"><em>plots</em></glossary><em> which, due to their characteristics, we consider the "</em><glossary term="Grand Cru" title="501"><em>Grand Crus</em></glossary><em>" of the island. This type of work can only be done if the soil is alive, as the </em><glossary term="Microflora" title="658"><em>microfauna</em></glossary><em> interacts with the roots of the plants in a symbiotic exchange and are able to read the characteristics of the soil perfectly. To keep the wine as lively and faithful as possible to the territory, we don't add even a gram of </em><glossary term="Sulfites" title="993"><em>sulfur dioxide</em></glossary><em>. The label colors highlight the color of the terrain profile:</em></p>
<p><em>- <strong>Yellow label (from the Cufurà district)</strong>: a </em><glossary term="Plot" title="1133"><em>plot</em></glossary><em> made up of yellow </em><glossary term="Pumice" title="1482"><em>pumice</em></glossary><em>. The wine is always delicate in its aromas and structure, more immediate than the other three labels. The scents reflect the maquis: alyssum and wild thyme.</em></p>
<p><em>- <strong>Gray label (from in the Rukia district)</strong>: a </em><glossary term="Plot" title="1133"><em>plot</em></glossary><em> made up of gray </em><glossary term="Pumice" title="1482"><em>pumice</em></glossary><em> with a layer of volcanic </em><glossary term="Mother Rock" title="690"><em>mother rock</em></glossary><em> just 40 cm deep. Among the </em><glossary term="Cru" title="1152"><em>crus</em></glossary><em>, it is the one that needs the most time to express itself: at the beginning it is </em><glossary term="Reduction" title="847"><em>reduced</em></glossary><em>, with a slight </em><glossary term="Mouse" title="693"><em>mouse</em></glossary><em>, but immediately after the summer it becomes complex and acquires an incredible depth. This is the windiest district of the island and I like to think that this is also felt in the wine.</em></p>
<p><em>- <strong>Red label (from the San Marco district):</strong> a </em><glossary term="Plot" title="1133"><em>plot</em></glossary><em> made up of red </em><glossary term="Sand" title="909"><em>sand</em></glossary><em> rich in </em><glossary term="Iron" title="547"><em>iron</em></glossary><em> and aluminium. The wine naturally tends to </em><glossary term="Oxidation" title="754"><em>oxidize</em></glossary><em>, so much so that it can seem like a raisin base (that is, a dry raisin wine without sugar). Grapes that ripen near the sea, the wine absorbs all the summer heat.</em></p>
<p><em>- <strong>Black label (from the Khaggiar district):</strong> a </em><glossary term="Plot" title="1133"><em>plot</em></glossary><em> made up of black </em><glossary term="Basalt" title="145"><em>basalt</em></glossary><em>, a very hard and heavy rock. The wine resembles the red label, but is much more austere."</em></p>
<p>Pecorelli and Ferreri also produce a micro<span class="zalup"><span><span>-</span><glossary term="Cuvée" title="363">cuvée</glossary> </span></span>of <glossary term="Catarratto" title="249">Catarratto</glossary> called "Kaffefi". It is named after the contrada where 40 to 80 year old vines grow within a single tanca. It is the only white wine that sees no <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Maceration" title="610">maceration</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> though it does go through a long, 24 hour <glossary term="Pressing" title="827">press</glossary> to give it extra structure. </p>
<p>Next in the lineup is "Firri Firri", a <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="clairet" title="1467">clairet</glossary><span>-</span></span></span>style <glossary term="Blend" title="168">blend</glossary> of 85% <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Catarratto" title="249">Catarratto</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> 10% <glossary term="Pignatello" title="797">Pignatello</glossary> and 5% <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Ansonica/Inzolia" title="1323">Inzolia</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> It's principally sourced from two <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcels</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> though random vines of <glossary term="Pignoletto" title="798">Pignoletto</glossary> are <glossary term="Co-plantation" title="309">co-planted</glossary> in many of the tancas and end up in the final wine. These varieties have historically always been planted along the walls of the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Terrace" title="1022">terraces</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> </p>
<p>Only one "real" red wine is made, and in tiny quantities. It's called "Nivuro Nostrale", and is made by <glossary term="Vinification" title="1104">vinifying</glossary> 97 plants (count em!) of 100+ year old <glossary term="Pignatello" title="797">Pignatello</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Alicante" title="90">Alicante</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> These grapes come from <em>"the most intimate and least known part of our island." </em></p>
<p>Two <glossary term="Pétillant Naturel" title="778">petillants naturels</glossary> are produced if the <glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintage</glossary> permits. "Ghirbi Bianco" is 100% <glossary term="Second Growth" title="937">second-growth</glossary> <glossary term="Zibibbo" title="1131">Zibbibo</glossary> grapes and "Ghirbi Rosato" is from seven <glossary term="Indigenous" title="1139">autochthonous</glossary> <glossary term="Varietal" title="1071">varieties</glossary> that grow under the walls of the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Terrace" title="1022">terraces</glossary><span>:</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Catarratto" title="249">Catarratto</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Alicante" title="90">Alicante</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Pignatello" title="797">Pignatello</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary term="Ansonica/Inzolia" title="1323">Inzolia</glossary> Imperiale and <glossary term="Ansonica/Inzolia" title="1323">Inzolia</glossary> Minuta, <glossary term="Grillo" title="511">Grillo</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Carignan" title="237">Carignan</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p><em>"</em><glossary term="Vinification" title="1104"><em>Vinifying</em></glossary><em> them as an </em><glossary term="Methode Ancestrale" title="1311"><em>ancestral method</em></glossary><em> is a way to enhance these grapes which are often not </em><glossary term="Harvest" title="521"><em>harvested</em></glossary><em>. The sparkling wines are not produced every year."</em></p>
<p>Finally, this is <glossary term="Pantelleria" title="759">Pantelleria</glossary> so there has to be a <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Passito" title="765">passito</glossary><span>!</span></span></span> Dubbed "Passulata", Francesco describes it as:<em> "the wine that best represents </em><glossary term="Pantelleria" title="759"><em>Pantelleria</em></glossary><em>. Making this wine is an immeasurable act of love towards our island which, like Nature, knows how to be very generous, but also hard, tiring, unpredictable and ever-changing, different with each season."</em></p>
<p>Over the years, we have had the honor of working with some of the most innovative and trailblazing producers in Europe. In our estimation, what binds them has always been a passion for expressing a sense of place, with <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Organic" title="746">organics</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Hand Harvesting" title="520">hand-harvesting</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary term="Native Yeast" title="538">native yeasts</glossary> and <glossary term="Minimal Intervention" title="664">minimal intervention</glossary> serving as tools, a means to an end. As the promotion of <glossary term="Natural WIne" title="708">natural wine</glossary> continues devolving into big business, marketing gimmicks and pigeon-holing a one-funk-fits-all visual/flavor profile, it's both reassuring and a breath of fresh air to meet a couple as dedicated, humble, passionate and visionary as Nicoletta and Francesco.</p>
<p><em>"We don't do this for fame or recognition: we do it for the island. None of the rules I learned in school applied to <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Pantelleria" title="759">Pantelleria</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> I didn't like <glossary term="Zibibbo" title="1131">Zibibbo</glossary> at first because it didn't conform to what I'd been taught. I had to learn everything with the help of my father and hands-on experience. This liberated me and forged a path that made me love the grape and its place on <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Pantelleria" title="759">Pantelleria</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> We know our wines are expensive, but we promise this is not speculation and nothing else but the estimated value of our work." </em></p>
<p>For even more in-depth information and photos, please read our visit recap from November 2023 (coming soon)</p>
Salvatore Marino Producer Profile
Salvatore Marino Producer Profile
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producer profile
<p>Wine has been made in Salvatore Marino’s family for generations; growing up, his grandfather and father produced bulk wine in a large facility within the town of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Pachino" title="1480">Pachino</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Always a bon vivant, Marino’s love for good food begat a passion for seeking delicious bottles from <glossary term="Sicily" title="951">Sicily</glossary> and beyond. It also made him dream of starting a project of his own. No stranger to <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Viticulture" title="1103">viticulture</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> Salvatore knew he could start farming vines from his wife Stefania’s family. But before branching out on his own, he felt the need to learn how to properly run a cellar.</p>
<p>Marino had learned how to make wine with his father, but found those bulk products riddled with defects, namely <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Brettanomyces" title="195">brett</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> So for many years, Salvatore cut his teeth working at huge wineries in California, <glossary term="Puglia" title="836">Puglia</glossary> and <glossary term="Sicily" title="951">Sicily</glossary> to further his knowledge of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Enology" title="422">enology</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> </p>
<p><em>“I never liked the wines I made at those places. But you can can learn so much, so fast in those environments. The large scale gives you perspective.”</em></p>
<p>With a decade of big winery experience behind him, Salvatore launched his eponymous <glossary term="Estate" title="427">estate</glossary> in 2017. Today he works 15 <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> of land divided into five sectors, all close to each other and the town of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Pachino" title="1480">Pachino</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> A firm believer in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Polyculture" title="815">polyculture</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> seven of the 15 <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> are planted in vines, with the rest planted in fruit trees, wheat, other cereals, table grapes and much more. Some of the land is from Stefania’s family, some is rented and some Marino has purchased. The soils consist of medium to heavy <glossary term="Clay" title="301">clay</glossary> with <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Limestone" title="596">limestone</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> planted in <glossary term="Gobelet" title="497">bush-trained</glossary> vines wrapped up on pickets to avoid damage from the region’s constant winds. Salvatore and Stefania do everything themselves, save for some seasonal help around <glossary term="Pruning" title="834">pruning</glossary> and <glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvest</glossary> seasons. </p>
<p>Though he still has access to the family winery, Salvatore does not feel comfortable making his wines there because he finds it too big and would rather be closer to the vines. In 2021, he purchased a four <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectare</glossary> property in the countryside where he is in the early stages of building a new winery, including a <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> stocking room, tasting room and guest rooms. The <glossary term="Cantina" title="233">cantina</glossary> is surrounded by <glossary term="Limestone" title="596">limestone</glossary> rich <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Coteau" title="345">coteaux</glossary><span>:</span></span></span> Salvatore has planted grafts of <glossary term="Nero d'Avola" title="714">Nero d’Avola</glossary> and <glossary term="Pignatello" title="797">Pignatello</glossary> and plans to plant <glossary term="Grecanico" title="1322">Grecanico</glossary> in the near future. </p>
<p>Three wines are currently produced. The bianco is 100% <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Catarratto" title="249">Catarratto</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> and comes from a 0.5 <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectare</glossary> vineyard planted by Salvatore in 2016 along with a 10 year old <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcel</glossary> of rented vines. It <glossary term="Maceration" title="610">macerates</glossary> five days before <glossary term="Fermentation" title="441">fermenting</glossary> in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Stainless Steel" title="986">stainless steel</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> then <glossary term="Aging" title="74">ages</glossary> in <glossary term="Concrete" title="325">concrete</glossary> <glossary term="Vat/Tank" title="1140">tanks</glossary> before <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Bottling" title="185">bottling</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> <glossary term="Catarratto" title="249">Catarratto</glossary> is actually a bit of a rarity in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Pachino" title="1480">Pachino</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> as <glossary term="Grillo" title="511">Grillo</glossary> has gained traction throughout <glossary term="Sicily" title="951">Sicily</glossary>; most of Marino’s contemporaries are exclusively replanting <glossary term="Marsala" title="633">Marsala</glossary>’s native white grape. In fact, only four producers currently cultivate <glossary term="Catarratto" title="249">Catarratto</glossary> and Salvatore is the only one focusing on new plantations.</p>
<p><em>“I like </em><glossary term="Grillo" title="511"><em>Grillo</em></glossary><em>, but I do not feel it is optimal for the </em><glossary term="Terroir" title="1026"><em>terroirs</em></glossary><em> of </em><glossary term="Pachino" title="1480"><em>Pachino</em></glossary><em>. My grandfather told me when I was young that </em><glossary term="Catarratto" title="249"><em>Catarratto</em></glossary><em> was the white grape for this area. I always remembered that.”</em></p>
<p>The <glossary term="Rosé/Rosato" title="871">rosato</glossary> is 100% <glossary term="Syrah" title="1001">Syrah</glossary> and a <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Direct Press" title="392">direct press</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary term="Fermentation" title="441">fermented</glossary> and <glossary term="Aging" title="74">aged</glossary> in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Stainless Steel" title="986">stainless steel</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p>Finally, the rosso is 95% <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Nero d'Avola" title="714">Nero d’Avola</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> 5% <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Pignatello" title="797">Pignatello</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> It <glossary term="Maceration" title="610">macerates</glossary> only six days, <glossary term="Fermentation" title="441">ferments</glossary> in <glossary term="Stainless Steel" title="986">stainless steel</glossary> then <glossary term="Aging" title="74">ages</glossary> in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Concrete" title="325">concrete</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Salvatore’s ultimate goal with this wine is to be versatile with a meal (we can confirm it’s very good with fish) but also something you’d want to keep drinking after you’re done eating or even on its own.</p>
Remembering Our Friend Julie Balagny
Remembering Our Friend Julie Balagny
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<p>When I saw Alain Coudert from Clos de la Roilette’s calling my phone last Saturday morning, I didn’t pick up. It’s abnormal for a vigneron to call over the weekend in regards to business, but I figured he wanted to talk about an upcoming pickup, a label registration or something of the sort. I was also rammed in a car full of childhood friends road-tripping for the holiday weekend; I let the call go to voicemail, deciding to give Alain a ring when we got to our destination. Then came a text from my mother asking me to call her: that meant bad news. Four days later and I’m still shell-shocked over Julie’s passing. Having been at her house less than a month ago, Julie had exuded so much LIFE over the course of that evening that her disappearance still feels impossible.</p>
<p>Where do I start with Julie? The beginning? She started making wines under her own name in 2009, but had entered our collective orbit a few years prior. Her name was on everyone’s lips circa 2007 as the new talent to look out for. So Joe and Denyse decided they had to meet her, visiting Julie while she still ran the cellar at Terres des Chardons in the Costières de Nimes. An instant connection was made and it was agreed Louis/Dressner would import the wines. The following summer, Denyse remembers seeing Julie in the Beaujolais with Yvon Métras: she had visited the land that would become her Fleurie parcels <strong>(1) </strong>but nothing was finalized.</p>
<p>After securing the land in the Beaujolais and working it less than a full year, Louis/Dressner imported Julie’s first eponymous wines despite what felt like astronomical pricing at the time coupled with the complicated -now increasingly common- full-bodied nature of the solar 2009 vintage. I remember the first cuvées of 2009 "En Remont"<strong>(2)</strong> and “Vieilles Vignes” gathering dust on the shelf at Arlequin Wine Merchant where I worked in San Francisco. Beaujolais was having a moment around then, but that moment was intricately linked to cheaper pricing and the distinctly crystalline, semi-carbonic “light” style the region was known for. Actually, critics loved the 2009 vintage, they felt it was an achievement to have produced such ripe, big wines. We felt it was a pity that a wine we loved for its lightness and freshness was evaluated through the wrong criteria: it was not a vintage of our liking.</p>
<p>LDM pressed on with the fantastic 2010’s, and by 2011 -the first of many vintages Julie felt obliged to blend her cuvées into a one-off wine, in this case “Carioca”<strong>(3)</strong>- a fanaticism of sorts was building around her. Julie’s star would continue to rise, and by the mid 2010’s she had earned her rank as a cult producer amongst a small but dedicated subset of drinkers. Usually I don't care about this type of thing much, but with Julie's wines I began to notice something different. It seemed like savvy drinkers understood and valued her efforts and vision, could TASTE it. </p>
<p>As far as I’m concerned, Julie was instrumental in fomenting a paradigm shift in how natural wine is approached. Producers like Julie forced companies like ours to re-align our values on, well, value. Louis/Dressner has always been about the underdog: independent vignerons from small or unknown regions making real, honest wine. For most of the company’s existence, that usually meant a “bang for your buck” due to the producer and/or region’s lack of notoriety. But vigneronnes like Julie Balagny changed the tide: value didn’t have to be economically tied to a famous region or a famous vigneron anymore, but to the VALUE of hard work, of vision, passion and qualities bordering on artistic expression. More often than not, these producers were outsiders to the region they made wine in: second-career “neo-vignerons/vigneronnes” working hyper-artisanally (in Julie’s case with zero mechanization) with no employees, requiring countless hours more work in the vines and cellar. </p>
<p>There were of course precursors to Julie. But her arrival on the scene at the dawn of the information era, a time when consumers could meticulously geek out on every aspect of a vigneron’s work, was serendipitous and integral in getting a lot of people hooked on seeking out similar wines.</p>
<p>I guess what I’m trying to say is that a lot of what we do now, or at least the way I interpret what we do, goes back to representing a human’s passion and humanity through their wine. Is this something we can actually succeed in as a company? Knowing Julie so well, I could taste the good, the bad, the chaos, the laughs, the bare-bones EVERYTHING, the pseudo-commune that was her house, even her crazy dogs, chickens and sheep running around the yard and vineyards... Are these things someone who's never met her can taste? I don't know, but I'd posit that this type of <em>je ne sais quoi</em> is what drew so many to seek out her cuvées in the first place. Julie made me look for these qualities in other producers, seek them out even.</p>
<p>Ok, I’ve been going on for a while now and barely broached Julie as a person. What can I say, Julie Balagny was one of a kind, always marching to the beat of her own polyrhythmic drum. Born in an aristocratic, well off Parisian family, she eschewed modern life and luxury for peasantry, the country-side, farm work. She lived a bare-bones, rustic and quasi-off the grid lifestyle. She was constantly brimming with restless energy and ideas. She lived in total chaos, and more then once the hectic energy she emitted and surrounded herself with made me feel like the mark of a prank tv-show or like I was making a cameo in a bizarro episode of the Beaujolais Real World <strong>(4)</strong>. </p>
<p>The wackiness really ramped up when Julie moved to Romanèche-Thorins in 2015. Prior to living there, our visits with her tended to be one-on-one, more classic: a meet and greet, a tour of the vines, tasting wines in the cellar then a dinner somewhere. But, with the exception of summer 2015 when we visited her newly acquired Beaujolais and Moulin-à-Vent plots <strong>(5)</strong>, all visits to the Romanèche house meant being SUCKED INTO THE VORTEX. There were of course the aforementioned dogs, chickens and sheep freely roaming the yard, often driving my mother's dog Zaggy completely bonkers <strong>(6)</strong>. More memorable were the ever-revolving cast of employees, seasonal workers, friends, weirdos and wasteoids that became the de-facto accompaniment to our visits. If you’d entered that courtyard enough times <strong>(7)</strong>, you knew you were going to be talking to chain-smoking randos knocking back glass after glass of Gamay <strong>(8)</strong>.</p>
<p>And of course there was always Julie, presiding over the chaos like nothing could be more normal. Cheeks red, hair blonde, eyes blazing blue and smiling at you like the lost long friend she hasn't seen in ages. Within minutes, you’d be deep in a conversation that would go on for hours, constantly re-enforced with another bottle, countless rolled cigarettes and, only after I insisted and because time had gotten away from her, a haphazard, improvised meal thrown together hours later than it should have been <strong>(9)</strong>.</p>
<p>There was always a lot to talk about. The usual vigneron blah blah (the weather, the vintage...) was only a formality with Julie, a quick box to check off so we could get to the good stuff. Sometimes it was hard to focus on her because a sheep was bumping its head into your leg. Or a very intoxicated shirtless man, badly scraped and bruised from drunkenly crashing his scooter hours earlier was berating you for not wearing a face-mask when bicycling in New York City (he'd never been and this was pre-pandemic). Or an equally intoxicated sommelier rolling in the dirt telling a sheep he loved them. Or an even more intoxicated sommelier drunkenly cutting up cucumbers and tomatoes, putting them in his glass, pouring and drinking a Balagny wine in it before I confiscated it (ok, that was the same sommelier telling the sheep he loved it, here is his picture).</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//736/8e/c6/8ec6df573478a63c1948ee247ee8f24f.jpg" /></p>
<p>Julie's house could sometimes feel like a haven for lost souls. Yet just as often you’d feel a raw energy, an incubator for a new generation of rural youth forging their own path. In both cases, it came from a place of utmost generosity and open-mindedness on Julie’s part. Most of the people I met at her table found inspiration working with her, whether there for seasonal work or deciding they wanted to become a vigneron in their early 50's and randomly apprenticing with her knowing nothing about natural wine. For the full-time crew, itself a rag-tag group of misfits, there was a feeling of belonging, a leftist, ecologically militant oasis in an increasingly far-right and angry rural France. </p>
<p>The most recurrent character in the last few years, one whom I’ve grown to adore, is Sylvain Chanudet, an ex-vigneron and the personified quintessence of a Beaujolois. After a very complicated period in his life, Julie had let Sylvain stay with her for a bit. He never left, becoming a permanent house-mate, adviser, pro-bono employee and even selling Julie some of the grapes he continues to meticulously farm despite not making wine anymore. Over the last few years, a visit with Julie meant a visit with Sylvain, always a treat for me. Their bond and friendship was so clear, so deep and powerful. I can’t imagine how much pain he must be in right now.</p>
<p>My last visit with Julie was less than a month ago, on Thursday June 8th. I got to the house around 6pm: after accidentally startling Julie who hadn’t heard me come in, a group of three young men arrived and quickly hunkered around the outdoor table to smoke cigarettes and drink Gamay. These were Julie’s employees, including Brice aka Docteur Briçou (you may recognize that name from the Moulin-à-Vent cuvée <strong>(10)</strong>) and two other guys whose name I didn’t catch. They were looking at how to manually fix a part of a 1970’s chariot the team use to till the vines; replacement parts haven’t been available to purchase for roughly 45 years. At some point a young woman swung by for no perceptible reason (though I have a hunch), had a few glasses and cigarettes and left.</p>
<p>Julie and I then tasted a recently bottled 2022 called "François", of which she gave me the back story. In 2020, she’d made a one-off wine called “Françoise” <strong>(11)</strong> from a plot of Beaujolais fruit her friend ended up still having when a contract didn’t go through at the last minute. In 2022, a young vigneron had committed suicide just before the harvest and his family was looking to sell the grapes. Julie felt it would have been wrong to call them herself (she didn’t want to take advantage of a terrible situation), but when it was them who reached out she decided to buy some. Julie named the cuvée "François" <strong>(12)</strong> and asked her label artist Delphine to make a man bringing flowers to his Françoise. Two one-offs loaded with symbolism.</p>
<p>We then tried various 2022’s from barrels, some of which had tangible amounts of sugar that still needed to ferment, others that were to be bottled soon (I am unaware if this occurred in the time between my visit and her passing). When we re-emerged from the cellar, Sylvain Chanudet and Tristesse, an older shirtless man who seemed very smily for having the nickname “sadness” (probably the point) had joined the other employees for some smokes and wine before they all headed off to get more work done in the vines.</p>
<p>That left Julie and I. Incredibly, this was destined to be our one and only <em>tête à tête</em> conversation in over a decade of friendship. Without the clique, we talked undistracted for hours-over a few bottles of course. She brought me up to speed with the craziness of dealing with her father’s inheritance and what it meant for the future of the estate. How she was planning on expanding her négociant line with grapes from Sylvain to help her have some earlier releases and keep things financially afloat. How she loved my “Sons of Winearchy” t-shirt <strong>(13)</strong> and wanted me get her one. We dove into her utopian vision of work and what she still hoped to accomplish: a true symbiosis of nature, beast and man coexisting and taking care of one another. I didn’t take very many notes but here are two quotes from that conversation:</p>
<p><em>"I work on a human scale with human beings."</em></p>
<p><em>"We're not business people, we're ecologists.”</em></p>
<p>She talked about giving her employees a chance to make their own wines while still having the security of employment with her, to encourage them to work well and to know they have a support system. In fact, her long-term goal was to create a cave cooperative with her employees, Sylvain Chanudet and a few other vignerons: sharing equipment, helping each other with manual labor, building a communal cellar so smaller upstarts wouldn't have to take on the financial pressure of building their own cellars… Going back to older pieces I’d written about her, Julie was saying much of the same over a decade ago in January 2012:</p>
<p><em>“I think it will remain as is in size. As I mentioned earlier, the real evolution I hope to achieve will come from working with livestock and the woods. If there were to be an expansion, I'd rather do it to help a young vigneron get started. There would be room to assist each other, to share tools, know-how and manual labor.”</em></p>
<p>From this conversation, it finally clicked as to why Julie constantly surrounded herself with all these people, why she was so zen with her open door policy. Anyone and everyone was welcome. This wasn’t because of boredom or loneliness, this was a vision, a way to live… A true cooperative space where anyone was welcome! </p>
<p>Finally, we talked about how she was feeling great overall, how she was really embracing and enjoying life in her 40’s and that it was something I should look forward to. Putain…</p>
<p>As the sun was setting, some of the guys came back, including Sylvain with a bunch of goat cheese from Tristesse’s friend. The other guys left; Sylvain had eaten already but kept us company while Julie prepared a quick meal: salad and cherries from her garden, potted<em> Poulet en Crème</em> and Tristesse’s goat cheese. On the cheese, Sylvain had this to say:</p>
<p><em>“All I need is some of this, a piece of saucisson and a glass of Gamay in the morning. I’m good to go”.</em></p>
<p>The three of us talked for many more hours: about the state of the world, about the Beaujolais, about a bunch of shit that would be too long to transcribe here. Julie started putting on music, which led us listening to Suprême N.T.M (a french rap crew) (<strong>14)</strong> and N.W.A , leading a philosophical discussion of how rap lyrics gave a voice to the oppressed, a way to speak truth to the injustices inflicted upon them. Sylvain admitted it wasn't really his thing sonically; he preferred Toto <strong>(15)</strong>, whom he’d seen live in the 80’s and who he felt were very talented musicians. At some point a Mozart sonata came on. Chaos!</p>
<p>Before leaving, Julie gave me a picnic basket full of breakfast goodies and an unlabeled magnum for Kewin Descombes’ 10 year anniversary party <strong>(16)</strong>, which I drank with Jules Métras, Elisa Guerrin, Laura Lardy and a young woman from California apprenticing at Domaine Chapel who was hoping to visit Julie at some point. As I was about to drive off, Julie called for me in the night, running towards the car to hand me the notebook I’d forgotten at the table. It was the last time I’d see her.</p>
<p>That night, I felt like we were on the verge of something. Like any truly amazing conversation, it can feel like you’ve figured everything out, that your ideas can change the world. Julie was radiant with joy and energy, smiling, laughing, cheering us on. We did the same. At one point I felt the presence of my usual Beaujolais companion Denyse (aka my mom) and my deceased father at the table with us, smiling fondly on these three individuals from wildly different backgrounds united over good wine and good people. I got emotional. I told myself: “this is why we fucking do what we do.” It was by far the best visit I’d ever had with Julie; she seemed at the apex of what she was doing, ready to push things to a whole other level. On my end, I left invigorated and re-inspired for the future: my own, my company’s, Julie’s. The visit felt like a gift, a sign of great things to come. Yet just a few weeks later I find myself forced to re-interpret those feelings.</p>
<p>The magic of Julie Balagny can never be emulated or recreated. She was amongst a small group of vignerons/vigneronnes I truly idolize for their eclecticism, irreverence, passion, energy, idiosyncrasy and conviction. Julie forged a community around her, one we’re all so much better off for having been a part of. I won’t try to find a replacement for Julie; instead I’ll look out for those same qualities in those I choose to surround myself with.</p>
<p>Because people like her CAN change the world.</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//736/1c/e5/1ce5d40d2b1f69433fb7c03221633931.jpg" /></p>
<p>***********</p>
<p><strong>(1): Julie in her Fleurie vines with Trevor Kellogg in 2019.</strong></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//736/87/14/871416eddbc32128f5ed30da2cac7aaa.jpg" /></p>
<p>(<b>2</b>)<strong>: a scan of the "En Remont" 2009 label.</strong></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//736/cf/58/cf58eb735fa2bceea84e46833c44595f.jpg" />. </p>
<p><strong>(3) The Carioca 2011 label.</strong></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//736/6c/40/6c40c82cf495d88f05063a105db9cb96.jpg" /></p>
<p><strong>(4): Christmas in summer at Julie Balagny's. Notice all the bottles on the table. </strong></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//736/9a/58/9a58088edfe6f5fac1fa214bd3232251.jpg" /></p>
<p><strong>(5): Julie in her Moulin-à-Vent vines, 2015.</strong><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//736/c1/73/c173f3d97b362623a75f6a231cb029f7.jpg" /></p>
<p><strong>(6) Dogs and sheep driving Zag bonkers.</strong></p>
<p><iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="560" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/7C4QOVQ2dks" title="Balagny Zag Bark" width="320"></iframe></p>
<p><strong>(7): The front yard in Romanèche-Thorins</strong></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//736/e0/d0/e0d014f15aabf250d1b86412201e1b4d.jpg" /></p>
<p><strong>(8): Rolling tobacco and Gamay, staples at Julie's table. Notice the Che Guevara tobacco pouch.</strong></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//736/1e/db/1edb7763a9f917a12d76da3c712e669f.jpg" /></p>
<p><strong>(9): My last haphazard meal with Julie, 2023.</strong></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//736/20/d7/20d762a2ac0347613d1e6d108c1172a2.jpg" /></p>
<p>(10) The Docteur Briçou label </p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//736/b0/07/b007025bc9088e34ef5833280b09f502.jpg" />(11) "Françoise", a one-off cuvée made in 2020 from purchased fruit.</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//736/9b/6d/9b6d36f784775bcb986899d2a01620ec.jpg" /></p>
<p>(12) "François" a one-off cuvée and the only 2022 bottled at the time of my visit. the spiritual succesor to "Françoise".</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//736/6d/21/6d2112da190af1ff5fd61d32653ec948.jpg" /></p>
<p><strong>(13): The Sons of Winearchy designed for our 2015 trade tasting t-shirts.</strong></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//736/3b/c1/3bc1ec3bfd7f3d59fd583334ff82d13b.jpg" /></p>
<p><strong>(14): The music video for Suprême N.T.M's "Laisse Pas Trainer Ton Fils", the song we listened to and one of the best songs in the history of French hip-hop.</strong></p>
<p><iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="404" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/biYdUZXfz9I" title="Suprême NTM - Laisse pas traîner ton fils (Clip officiel)" width="546"></iframe></p>
<p><strong>(15) Toto: they saw the rain down in Africa. Here is a nine minute remix I've been using as a secret weapon in DJ sets for years:</strong></p>
<p><iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="404" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/mDwI0DTqD_A" title="Late Nite Tuff Guy - Bless The Rains (LNTG Epic Journey)" width="539"></iframe></p>
<p><strong>(16): Beaujolais Breakfast.</strong></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//736/84/25/8425295ea61595f6f3017b707cd27e64.jpg" /></p>
<p><strong>(MISC): A pair of Converse gifted to Julie in 2021. It became a running gag that we secured our annual allocation of her wines by bringing her a pair, as they are much cheaper in the United States. </strong></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//736/f7/77/f777072acf89af35aa27cd350b5337ef.jpg" /></p>
<p><strong>(MISC): Julie driving us to her Fleurie parcels in 2019.</strong></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//736/5e/7a/5e7a6c1be9eb1d6c8bdc84357266b45f.jpg" /></p>
<p><strong>(MISC): a whirlwind of dogs and sheep encircling Denyse Louis in 2015.</strong></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//736/86/d1/86d10a3749622348cb281090e51ebc08.jpg" /></p>
<p><strong>(MISC): The label for the 2017 one-off "Docteur Buchaille Présente Ordinaire". That vintage, Julie's microscopic yields forced her to blend her Moulin-à-Vent grapes with her Beaujolais grapes. Inspired by her amazing time in California following her invite to Brumaire in Oakland, she decided to immortalize this mashup by naming the cuvée after the Oakland wine bar Ordinaire (the joke being that it is anything but ordinary). She also included the whale tattoo Ordinaire owner Bradford Taylor has and Keven Clancy, our partner and friend at Farm Wine Imports, front and center of the label (that's him with the glasses). </strong></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//736/1b/be/1bbe24b29bd36dbd2d3a24436ca87d1e.jpg" /></p>
<p><strong>(MISC): Le label for "Bella Ciao", the other 2017 cuvée in which Julie blended all of her Fleurie fruit into one wine.</strong></p>
<p> </p>
<p><strong>From wikipedia: "Bella ciao" is an Italian protest folk song from the late 19th century, originally sung by the mondina workers in protest against the harsh working conditions in the paddy fields of Northern Italy.</strong></p>
<p><strong>It is widely assumed that the mondina song was modified and adopted as an anthem of the Italian resistance movement by the partisans who opposed Nazism and fascism, and fought against the occupying forces of Nazi Germany, who were allied with the fascist and collaborationist Italian Social Republic between 1943 and 1945 during the Italian Civil War. However, historians argue that there is little to no evidence that Italian partisans actually sang the song.</strong></p>
<p><strong>Versions of "Bella ciao" continue to be sung worldwide as a hymn of freedom and resistance.</strong></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//736/d6/28/d6280abe88edbb0492172e6e20e9c50e.jpg" /></p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>
<p><strong>(MISC): a video I recorded of Julie grabbing a salad in her backyard for our last dinner. I posted it on social media, to which she responded: <em>Ainsi va la Vie!</em>" ("such is life!")</strong></p>
<p><iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="560" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/N9KZIbKr1XI" title="Julie in her backyard" width="320"></iframe></p>
<p> </p>
A Visit with Thomas Puechavy
A Visit to Thomas Puechavy's in February 2023
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producers visit
<p><em><strong>Words and photos by Jules Dressner. </strong></em></p>
<p>This winter, we were able to visit Thomas Puechavy for the first time. After greeting us at his home in Nazelles-Négron, we took the 17 minute car ride to the village of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vouvray" title="1121">Vouvray </glossary></span></span>to visit his vines. I sat up front with Thomas, who I'd only met minutes prior, along with his two friends Raf and Martin. It was a fun ride; Thomas is like me, Franco/American, but grew up his entire life in Paris. Raf is French but lives in London and Martin is German. Both were in France to help Thomas <glossary term="Pruning" title="834">prune</glossary> before spending the weekend at the various wine fairs around <glossary term="Saumur" title="919">Saumur</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Angers" title="104">Angers</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> </p>
<p>Everyone spoke English, and we discussed the VERY REAL connection between musicians/music lovers who are also really into wine. You see, Thomas' first life was largely spent making music and touring with the band Moriarty. It was during extensive bouts on the road that he caught the wine bug. Raf and Martin originally met him through music, and they too are now completely enamored with wine through Thomas.</p>
<p><em>"Both reward an obsessive nature."</em></p>
<p>After a beautiful drive, we'd arrived to the village of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vouvray" title="1121">Vouvray</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> From a small dirt path, we walked onto an open field that quickly gave way to a large plateau of vineyards. </p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//977/24/3b/243bfddfbd2feb0066a06035bbab18f8.jpg" /><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//977/1f/f7/1ff7d1ee44fea92a7b40476c12cc0494.jpg" /><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//977/f1/9d/f19d29bb11e00e95b9c86670aa2b5ed8.jpg" /></p>
<p>Thomas explained that this plateau is shared with Huet and Foreau. Some neighbors! The soils are <glossary term="Clay" title="301">clay</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Limestone" title="596">limestone</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> but this particular area is very light in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Clay" title="301">clay</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> making for exceptional drainage and imparting tons of <glossary term="Minerality" title="662">minerality</glossary> to the wines. Puechavy's vines are spread amongst many <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcels</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> the youngest 25 and the oldest in their 80's. All in all, Thomas farms 3.5 <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> spread over multiple <glossary term="Plot" title="1133">plots</glossary> and two <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Lieu-Dit" title="594">lieu-dits</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> all within the same plateau. </p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//977/2d/27/2d27739fe37966ea08df58e8f3fff800.jpg" /><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//977/09/59/09595cb681f924ef3bef9c020c8aa173.jpg" /></p>
<p>The vines had been worked <glossary term="Conventional Farming" title="331">conventionally</glossary> prior to Thomas' arrival in 2018 and are currently in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Conversion" title="332">organic conversion</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> So far he's been very careful with the soil, working it only superficially and very lightly at that.</p>
<p><em>"I worry there are still some roots at the superficial level after years of intensive </em><glossary term="Conventional Farming" title="331"><em>conventional viticulture</em></glossary><em>."</em></p>
<p>Thomas is also looking into <glossary term="Cover Crop" title="1255">cover-crops</glossary> and various herbal sprays to bring vigor back to the soils. </p>
<p><em>"I'm pretty lucky. Huet and Foreau work </em><glossary term="Biodynamic" title="160"><em>biodynamically</em></glossary><em> and </em><glossary term="Organic" title="746"><em>organically</em></glossary><em> and are my only big neighbors. We're even in a counsel together to promote </em><glossary term="Biodiversity" title="1162"><em>biodiversity</em></glossary><em> in </em><glossary term="Vouvray" title="1121"><em>Vouvray</em></glossary><em>." </em></p>
<p>One major project at the moment is to replant an indigenous tulip that all but disappeared in the area with the rise of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Conventional Farming" title="331">chemical agriculture</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Huet has always been able to maintain them on their land and is now giving them to other growers in the counsel to propagate in their own vineyards.</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//977/f6/ec/f6ec86864bc33c29e6c0a01f7717c8d2.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//977/db/7a/db7a2dc44114263dd7f39a0a3294d245.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//977/23/bc/23bcabd49f5dba952c97c2879550c3a0.jpg" /></p>
<p>While walking through the vines, Thomas also explained how he originally had no intention to work in the <glossary term="Loire Valley" title="602">Loire</glossary> or even to start his own <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Estate" title="427">estate</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p><em>"After finishing my studies, my plan was to go work for someone else, probably somewhere in the south like the </em><glossary term="Languedoc" title="579"><em>Languedoc</em></glossary><em>, and eventually find a little </em><glossary term="Plot" title="1133"><em>plot</em></glossary><em> to make some wine on the side. During an apprenticeship in the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Loire Valley" title="602"><em>Loire</em></glossary><span>,</span></span></span> my boss at the time introduced me to a retiring </em><glossary term="Vigneron/Vignaiolo" title="1089"><em>vigneron</em></glossary><em> who had 10 </em><glossary term="Hectare" title="523"><em>hectares</em></glossary><em> in </em><glossary term="Vouvray" title="1121"><em>Vouvray</em></glossary><em>. His big stipulation was that he DID NOT want his land worked by someone already established in the area. He had some great <glossary term="Terroir" title="1026">terroirs</glossary> but wanted me to take on all 10 </em><glossary term="Hectare" title="523"><em>hectares</em></glossary><em>. That wasn't possible, but I did happen to know two other guys who wanted to start small </em><glossary term="Estate" title="427"><em>estates</em></glossary><em> of their own. We agreed to split the land, and here I am today."</em></p>
<p>From the vines, we headed back to Nazelles-Négron to taste some wines in Thomas' beautiful <glossary term="Tuffeau" title="1053">tuffeau</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> </p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//977/b1/23/b123715932bebed8a0b13c5ee6f41f18.jpg" /></p>
<p>We began in the <glossary term="Barrel" title="142">barrel</glossary> room, tasting the soon to be <glossary term="Bottling" title="185">bottled</glossary> "Rayon Blanc" 2021 and "Les Doyennes" 2020.</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//977/e3/80/e38078ac677273551dc2ebac113bce90.jpg" /><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//977/55/69/556997b9a1830c3df89c95634b019315.jpg" /></p>
<p>Both wines are made in a very straightforward fashion: <glossary term="Direct Press" title="392">direct-pressed</glossary> then <glossary term="Racking/Soutirage" title="843">racked</glossary> to <glossary term="Barrel" title="142">barrel</glossary> to <glossary term="Fermentation" title="441">ferment</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Aging" title="74">age</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> "Rayon Blanc" comes from the <glossary term="Estate" title="427">estate</glossary>'s younger vines and is <glossary term="Aging" title="74">aged</glossary> 14 to 16 months before <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Bottling" title="185">bottling</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> "Les Doyennes" comes from the old vines (60 to 80 years old) and <glossary term="Aging" title="74">ages</glossary> 26 to 28 months before <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Bottling" title="185">bottling</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> </p>
<p>A third wine, a <glossary term="Pétillant Naturel" title="778">pet-nat</glossary> called "Les Turbulants", begins its <glossary term="Fermentation" title="441">fermentation</glossary> in <glossary term="Fiberglass" title="445">fiberglass</glossary> before finishing in bottle. </p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//977/d5/e1/d5e1385670ede41d44ba34ce1136b60e.jpg" /><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//977/b7/c7/b7c7c9d858b9accbfb6ad6fec6497893.jpg" /></p>
<p>We ended the tasting with an <glossary term="Off-Dry" title="736">off-dry</glossary> 2022 from a tiny <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vat/Tank" title="1140">vat</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Thomas wasn't sure what he was going to do with it during the visit, but has since decided to <glossary term="Bottling" title="185">bottle</glossary> it without <glossary term="Sulfites" title="993">sulfites</glossary> with a <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Crown Cap" title="359">crown cap</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> expecting a "perlant" style to develop in the bottle.</p>
<p>After all that hard work, it was lunch time and we finally got to eat at Hervé and Patricia Chardonneau's Le Berlot in <glossary term="Montlouis" title="684">Montlouis</glossary> for the first time! </p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//977/46/a4/46a4ecce12c76f48251490f9a27bef23.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//977/de/d1/ded1c1727412022ab60a0c4ade88a66a.jpg" /></p>
Thomas Puechavy Producer Profile
Thomas Puechavy Producer Profile
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producer profile
<p>Thomas Puechavy was born and raised in Paris. For most of his adult life he played harmonica, accordion and jew's harp in the band Moriarty (while it's possible you've heard of them, they remain a BIG DEAL in France/Europe since their formation in the mid-aughts. Denyse Louis is a fan and thinks you should check out the singer Rosemary's solo stuff…) Like many musicians we know, Thomas fell in love with food and wine during his extensive bouts of touring. In 2016, he decided to take the plunge into wine, studying <glossary term="Viticulture" title="1103">viticulture</glossary> and <glossary term="Enology" title="422">enology</glossary> in <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Amboise" title="100">Amboise</glossary><span>.</span> </span> </span> His original plan was to work as an apprentice in various regions of France, eventually settling somewhere warm like the <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Languedoc" title="579">Languedoc</glossary><span>,</span> </span> </span> where he'd work for someone else while comfortably tending a small <glossary term="Plot" title="1133">plot</glossary> of his own.</p>
<p>The first part of this plan worked, sort of. While working in the <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Loire Valley" title="602">Loire</glossary><span>,</span> </span> </span> Thomas' boss at the time introduced him to a <glossary term="Vigneron/Vignaiolo" title="1089">vigneron</glossary> who owned 10 <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> of land in <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Vouvray" title="1121">Vouvray</glossary> <span>.</span> </span> </span> He was looking to retire and adamant his vines not be worked or purchased by someone already established in the area. It was an interesting proposition, but Thomas was asked to take over all 10 <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary><span>.</span> </span> </span> It was too much on his own; fortunately Puechavy knew of two other upstarts who were looking to start small <glossary term="Estate" title="427">estates</glossary> of their own. The three split the land, and in 2018 Thomas began renting 3.5 <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> in the village of <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Vouvray" title="1121">Vouvray</glossary><span>, producing his first vintage in 2019.</span> </span> </span></p>
<p>To say Puechavy lucked out with his land is an understatement: these <glossary term="Terroir" title="1026">terroirs</glossary> are as good as it gets. The vines are sandwiched between those of Huet and Foreau, the two legendary, defining <glossary term="Estate" title="427">estates</glossary> of <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Vouvray" title="1121">Vouvray</glossary><span>.</span> </span> </span> The vines, planted exclusively in <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Chenin Blanc" title="281">Chenin Blanc</glossary><span>,</span> </span> </span> grow on <glossary term="Clay" title="301">clay</glossary> and <glossary term="Limestone" title="596">limestone</glossary> and are roughly 25 to 80 years old. The specificity of the <glossary term="Terroir" title="1026">terroir</glossary> is that it's much more <glossary term="Limestone" title="596">limestone</glossary> heavy than other parts of <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Vouvray" title="1121">Vouvray</glossary><span>,</span> </span> </span> resulting in great drainage and unparalleled <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Minerality" title="662">minerality</glossary><span>.</span> </span> </span> The prior owner worked them <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Conventional Farming" title="331">conventionally</glossary><span>,</span> </span> </span> so Thomas is in the process of <glossary term="Conversion" title="332">converting</glossary> them to <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Organic" title="746">organics</glossary><span>.</span> </span> </span></p>
<p>So far he has been very gentle with working the soil, as he does not want to damage roots that may still be at superficial levels after years of <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Conventional Farming" title="331">conventional farming</glossary><span>.</span> </span> </span> He's also exploring the idea of <glossary term="Cover Crop" title="1255">cover-crops</glossary> and will most certainly replant certain <glossary term="Plot" title="1133">plots</glossary> of very <glossary term="Old Vines" title="740">old vines</glossary> that barely yield fruit. As an aside, it doesn't hurt that Huet and Foreau both have been practicing <glossary term="Organic" title="746">organics</glossary> and <glossary term="Biodynamic" title="160">biodynamics</glossary> for a long time and are Thomas' only neighbors.</p>
<p>Puechavy was also lucky to find a house built next to a large quarry ideal for wine production in Nazelles-Négron. One catch though: while Nazelles is technically within the limits allowed to <glossary term="Vinification" title="1104">vinify</glossary> <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Vouvray" title="1121">Vouvray</glossary><span>,</span> </span> </span> Thomas lives 500 meters OUTSIDE of the delineated border! The <glossary term="Appellation" title="113">appellation</glossary> being notoriously strict with its zoning (<a href="https://punchdrink.com/articles/montlouis-sur-loire-vs-vouvray-wine-chenin-blanc-battleground/" target="_blank">we recommend reading this article for context</a>), Puechavy is only allowed to label his wines as <glossary term="AOC" title="108">AOC</glossary> <glossary term="Touraine" title="1036">Touraine</glossary>; in such he's decided to <glossary term="Declassification" title="383">declassify</glossary> them all to <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Vin de France" title="1092">Vin de France</glossary><span>.</span> </span> </span> It felt like was an unfair disadvantage ar first, but over the years (and in spite of working some of the best <glossary term="Terroir" title="1026">terroirs</glossary> in the <glossary term="Loire Valley" title="602">Loire</glossary>) he's come to embrace this unique, slightly absurd standing.</p>
<p>Work in the <glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary> is straightforward. Thomas divides the grapes between younger and <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Old Vines" title="740">older vines</glossary> <span>,</span> </span> </span> which are then <glossary term="Direct Press" title="392">direct-pressed</glossary> to <glossary term="Fermentation" title="441">ferment</glossary> and <glossary term="Aging" title="74">age</glossary> in <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Barrel" title="142">barrel</glossary> or <glossary term="Stainless Steel" title="986">stainless steel</glossary><span>.</span> </span> </span> From the younger vines, two wines are produced: "Les Vrilles" which is <glossary term="Vinification" title="1104">vinified</glossary> and <glossary term="Aging" title="74">aged</glossary> in <glossary term="Stainless Steel" title="986">stainless</glossary> and "Rayon Blanc", which <glossary term="Fermentation" title="441">ferments</glossary> and <glossary term="Aging" title="74">ages</glossary> in <glossary term="Old Oak" title="739">old barrels</glossary> and is <glossary term="Bottling" title="185">bottled</glossary> 14-16 months after it was <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvested</glossary><span>.</span> </span> </span> From the <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Old Vines" title="740">old vines</glossary><span>,</span> </span> </span> a wine called "Les Doyennes" is produced with an extra year of <glossary term="Elevage" title="418">elevage</glossary> in <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Barrel" title="142">barrel</glossary><span>,</span> </span> </span> <glossary term="Bottling" title="185">bottled</glossary> 26-28 months after <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvest</glossary> <span>.</span> </span> </span> A <glossary term="Pétillant Naturel" title="778">pétillant naturel</glossary> called "Les Turbulants" is also made from the younger vines, partially <glossary term="Fermentation" title="441">fermenting</glossary> in <glossary term="Fiberglass" title="445">fiberglass</glossary> before continuing in bottle. Puechavy lets the wines <glossary term="Spontaneous Fermentation" title="976">ferment naturally</glossary> and does not <glossary term="Filtration" title="447">filter</glossary> or <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Fining" title="449">fine</glossary><span>.</span> </span> </span> When it comes to <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Sulfites" title="993">S02</glossary> <span>,</span> </span> </span> for the time being he remains pragmatic: the goal is to not use any if possible, but Thomas is not averse to adding <glossary term="Sulfites" title="993">sulfur</glossary> at any point he feels the wines need them. This has varied <glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintage</glossary> to <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintage</glossary> <span>,</span> </span> </span> <glossary term="Cuvée" title="363">cuvée</glossary> to <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Cuvée" title="363">cuvée</glossary> <span>.</span> </span> </span></p>
<p>Having only started in 2019, we cannot wait to see the wines' evolution as the land recovers from its <glossary term="Organic" title="746">organic</glossary> <glossary term="Conversion" title="332">conversion</glossary> and Thomas gains more insight/ experience in the vines and <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary> <span>.</span> </span> </span> The wines are already unmistakably " <glossary term="Vouvray" title="1121">Vouvray</glossary> " and resonant of their fantastic <span class="zalup"> <span> <glossary term="Terroir" title="1026">terroir</glossary> <span>.</span> </span> </span> We're not going to bullshit you and say they are in the same league as Foreau or Huet, but connaisseurs should find parallels in the wines' structure. <glossary term="Vin de France" title="1092">VDF's</glossary> like no other!</p>
Geremi Producer Profile
Geremi Producer Profile
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producer profile
<p>Brother and sister Miriam and Renato Mareschi are first and foremost restaurateurs. Both grew up working in their parents’ restaurant in Ranuccio until it closed in 2006; Miriam ran the front of the house (becoming the sommelier in 1990) while Renato made the pizzas.</p>
<p>Since 2002, Miriam owns and runs the fantastic trattoria Piazzetta del Sole in the medieval town of Farnese. Always encouraging her chefs to meticulously source ingredients, in the late aughts she found herself wanting to do the same with wine. Having become increasingly enamored with <em>vini naturali</em>, by 2010 Miriam served these exclusively. Wanting to offer her customers and excellent house wine, in 2016 she decided to start a small project of her own. Her brother Renato, who’d made wine with his father and grandfather in his youth (Mr. Mareschi produced wine for personal consumption until 1997), joined her and, in 2017, a white wine called "Itinerae" was produced to be served exclusively at Piazzetta del Sole.</p>
<p>This first experience made Renato fall in love with the idea of tending vines and making wine, so he began sourcing as many vineyards as he could to rent and produce Geremi’s first “official” <glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintage</glossary> in 2018. Today, the <glossary term="Estate" title="427">estate</glossary> consists of roughly two <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> of rented <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcels</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> most in the surrounding area of Farnese (home of Miriam’s restaurant) and Ischia di Castro (home of the <glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary>) with a few other <glossary term="Plot" title="1133">plots</glossary> in Montefiacone, a <glossary term="Commune" title="322">commune</glossary> closer to the the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Lake Bolsena" title="173">Bolsena Lake</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p>The wines are made in a small <glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary> in Ischia di Castro that's been in the family for generations. Miriam and Renato inherited it in the 1980's, when the family still made wine for personal consumption from a <glossary term="Plot" title="1133">plot</glossary> they no longer own. With no formal training outside of his time working with his family, Renato’s <glossary term="Vinification" title="1104">vinifications</glossary> are simple and rustic: a nod to the personal consumption winemaking of his past generation while also in line with what he and Miriam like to drink. Almost everything is currently produced in <glossary term="Stainless Steel" title="986">stainless steel</glossary> or <glossary term="Fiberglass" title="445">fiberglass</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vat/Tank" title="1140">tanks</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> though this may change with time. The wines <glossary term="Fermentation" title="441">ferment</glossary> with <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Spontaneous Fermentation" title="976">spontaneous yeasts</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> are never <glossary term="Fining" title="449">fined</glossary> or <glossary term="Filtration" title="447">filtered</glossary> and the only thing added is a small amount of <glossary term="Sulfites" title="993">S02</glossary> during <glossary term="Maceration" title="610">macerations</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Racking/Soutirage" title="843">racking</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> </p>
<p>For more details on each individual wine, please check their descriptions below.</p>
Pedecastello Producer Profile
Pedecastello Producer Profile
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producer profile
<p>Pedecastello, or “foot of the castle”, is a small <glossary term="Viticulture" title="1103">viticultural</glossary> project from Alex della Vecchia. Nestled in the mountains of Tambre, a <glossary term="Commune" title="322">commune</glossary> of Belluno, the <glossary term="Estate" title="427">estate</glossary> has been worked by Alex’s family for over a century. For generations they raised cattle, first for milk and then for meat.</p>
<p>When Alex’s grandfather passed away, he inherited the land with his uncle. They worked a total of three days together before deciding to go separate ways over a fundamental disagreement: Alex wanted to butcher and transform the meat to sell individual cuts and his uncle wanted to sell them whole. At the same time, Alex had been dreaming of making his own wine and began wondering if he could use his part of the property to plant vines.</p>
<p>Shaped by high <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Elevation" title="419">elevation</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> grassy, fertile soils and a cool climate, the region has historically been dedicated to cattle, notably for production of the famed <glossary term="DOP" title="402">DOP</glossary> Piave cheese. <glossary term="Viticulture" title="1103">Viticulture</glossary> remains extremely rare, with roughly 60 <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> planted at the time of this writing.</p>
<p><em>“Making wine in Belluno is 100% a result of climate change. 30 years ago, it would have been way too cold.”</em></p>
<p>Inexperienced but full of conviction, Alex decided to plant a <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectare</glossary> of <glossary term="Pinot Noir" title="805">Pinot Noir</glossary> in 2010. Around this time, he met the late Ernesto Cattel who, in the early years of shaping his Costadilà project, was looking to acquire some cattle. Alex seized the opportunity to collaborate with Ernesto and, hoping to learn how to make wine, began working full-time with Costadilà. As his time at Costadiłà blossomed into head of <glossary term="Viticulture" title="1103">viticulture</glossary> and eventually running the <glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary> after Ernesto’s passing, he kept cultivating his own <glossary term="Pinot Noir" title="805">Pinot Noir</glossary> and lending a helping hand with the cattle.</p>
<p>Alex currently grows two <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> of vines at Pedecastello: the aforementioned <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectare</glossary> of <glossary term="Pinot Noir" title="805">Pinot Noir</glossary> planted in 2010 and another split 50/50 between <glossary term="Bianchetta Trevigiana" title="1141">Bianchetta</glossary> and PIWI (a German, fungal resistant <glossary term="Hybrid" title="532">hybrid grape</glossary>) planted in 2017. The soils, composed of <glossary term="Sand" title="909">sand</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Clay" title="301">clay</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> are very fertile, with <glossary term="Mother Rock" title="690">mother rock</glossary> a full two meters below the <span class="zalup"><span> <glossary term="Topsoil" title="1032">top soil</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Alex does not add <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Cover Crop" title="1255">cover crops</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> but lets grass grow wild and encourages <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Biodiversity" title="1162">biodiversity</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> With an obvious assist from the cattle on hand, manure is used to <glossary term="Fertilizer" title="442">fertilize</glossary> the soils.</p>
<p>Alex has been experimenting with various methods of still and sparkling <glossary term="Vinification" title="1104">vinifications</glossary> but so far has chosen to focus primarily on <glossary term="Methode Ancestrale" title="1311"><em>ancestrale</em></glossary><em> </em>sparklers. While in the same <glossary term="colfondo" title="1382">Col Fondo</glossary> vein as Costadilà (in fact they are made in the same <glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary>), the <glossary term="Terroir" title="1026">terroirs</glossary> and use of <glossary term="Pinot Noir" title="805">Pinot Noir</glossary> distinguish “Pedecastello” as a rounder expression marked by red fruit. Alex <glossary term="Bottling" title="185">bottled</glossary> his first <glossary term="colfondo" title="1382">Col Fondo</glossary> <glossary term="Bianchetta Trevigiana" title="1141">Bianchetta</glossary>/PIWI <glossary term="Blend" title="168">blend</glossary> in 2021 and will continue to do so in future <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintages</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
Domaine Carterole Visit
A Visit to Domaine Carterole in March 2022
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producers visit
<p><em><strong>Words and photos by Jules Dressner.</strong></em></p>
<p>We've known Joachim Roque for quite a few years now, but this was our first time visiting his <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Estate" title="427">estate</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Fueled by croissants, coffee and a nice view of the Mediterranean, we were ready to go! </p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/5b/25/5b25d76464e006db818797e78c8bd725.jpg" /></p>
<p>Joachim told us he wanted to start the visit in the vines of Saint-André, the village where he lives. Not realizing it was a solid 20 minute drive, we had some time to chat about this sector I'd never visited before. </p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/77/df/77dfe658f31d33d482174eb415048b46.jpg" /></p>
<p>Saint-André is not only where Joachim lives but where he has the majority of his vines. The <glossary term="Terroir" title="1026">terroirs</glossary> here are part of the very broad <glossary term="Côtes du Roussillon" title="376">Côtes du Roussillon</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Appellation" title="113">appellation</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> </p>
<p>The big project of the moment is to build a <glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary> minutes from his house for the 2023 <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintage</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p><em>“It’s much closer to </em><glossary term="Collioure" title="319"><em>Collioure</em></glossary><em> and all the Saint-André vines are right there. From my village, there is only one road to </em><glossary term="Banyuls" title="135"><em>Banyuls</em></glossary><em> and the 9 Caves where I have my </em><glossary term="Cellar" title="254"><em>cellar</em></glossary><em>. We’re </em><glossary term="Harvest" title="521"><em>harvesting</em></glossary><em> in August, it’s peak tourist season. Sometimes it takes me an hour and half to get to the 9 Caves. It’s a huge waste of time and energy.”</em></p>
<p>The first sector we visited is Joachim's single largest <glossary term="Plot" title="1133">plot</glossary> of land. </p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/7a/84/7a84a583c9770f8971803bfc351cc830.jpg" /><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/e8/13/e813a479cfde9bfbb5fcfc5f3fc1c3d3.jpg" /><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/04/d2/04d278591814eced1fe9b1779bdc8ac8.jpg" /></p>
<p>The main plantings are 12 year old <glossary term="Muscat" title="698">Muscat</glossary> that go into "Esperanza Blanc", along with the <glossary term="Syrah" title="1001">Syrah</glossary> and <glossary term="Grenache" title="508">Grenache Noir</glossary> Joachim uses to make his <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Rosé/Rosato" title="871">rosé</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> In 2022, he will plant some <glossary term="Xarel lo" title="1302">Xarel-lo</glossary> in hopes of making a sparkling wine. The <glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary> will also be by these vines, to the right of the building in the picture above. </p>
<p>The soils here are very <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Sand" title="909">sandy</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> so <glossary term="Yield" title="1129">yields</glossary> can get up to very respectable 4<span class="zalup"><span>0<glossary term="hl/ha" title="528">hl/h</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/0c/fb/0cfbf9c5991e1db49909d90aa8fdefb7.jpg" /></p>
<p>Some of the younger vines have been struggling, so Joachim planted mustard seeds between the rows to help with vigor.</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/b4/11/b411c632ed4b9f478eaad60b75aedc42.jpg" /></p>
<p>The second <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcel</glossary> we visited is what Joachim uses the for his "Brutal".</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/cf/fd/cffd5c742cb259a738e3b40e5513b281.jpg" /></p>
<p>The <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcel</glossary> consists of <glossary term="Syrah" title="1001">Syrah</glossary> <glossary term="Co-plantation" title="309">co-planted</glossary> with <glossary term="Muscat d'Alexandrie" title="687">Muscat d’Alexandrie</glossary> (hey, that's the same <glossary term="Blend" title="168">blend</glossary> as Tom Lubbe's Brutal!) The vines are about 25 years old and planted on rockier <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Sand" title="909">sands</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> They are off an off-road with little else but little patches of vines.</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/54/83/5483f0fa3048d2bfba87e0806d70fa2a.jpg" /></p>
<p>That's the <glossary term="Pyrenees Mountains" title="1195">Pyrenees</glossary> in the above background on the left. You could see them at any point of the visit. </p>
<p>The third Saint-André <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcel</glossary> we drove to is planted in 1.2<glossary term="Hectare" title="523">h</glossary> of <glossary term="Grenache" title="508">Grenache Noir</glossary> and 1.2<glossary term="Hectare" title="523">h</glossary> of <glossary term="Syrah" title="1001">Syrah</glossary> for reds, along with 40 <glossary term="Are" title="1208">ares</glossary> of <glossary term="Macabeu" title="609">Macabeu</glossary> and <glossary term="Vermentino" title="1081">Vermentino</glossary> for white.</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/54/f0/54f09807b519167f46e8c348fffb0e9e.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/84/09/84098fd07b6f2e74317b6574266e4403.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/84/e4/84e46f4a64ba900fc6c4ec771197f9e7.jpg" /></p>
<p>There are plans to plant 35 <glossary term="Are" title="1208">ares</glossary> of <glossary term="Grenache Blanc" title="509">Grenache Blanc</glossary> here in 2022.</p>
<p>We didn't stop and see all 12.5 <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> in Saint-Andrée, though we did drive past a few <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcels</glossary> that go into the Tutti Frutti Ananas project. From this land, Joachim currently produces the Carterole "Esperanza" cuvées (white, rosé, red) and roughly 80% of the Tutti Frutti Ananas production. </p>
<p>We then headed to the <glossary term="Collioure" title="319">Collioure</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Terroir" title="1026">terroirs</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Joachim's main <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcel</glossary> is on the other side of the mountain from Saint-André. There were some stunning views on the drive over. </p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/29/17/2917a5a01ee2afaa0bfcd988223fe84c.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/f6/e4/f6e4b9005f6625ef41023b1055b458f7.jpg" /></p>
<p>Fun fact: that rock on the top of the picture above is famous for mountain climbing and actually where special police and fire fighters train. </p>
<p>After settling down a windy road, Joachim gave us the the lay of the land. His main <glossary term="Collioure" title="319">Collioure</glossary> parcel has been dubbed Estafette because of the abandoned Renault truck of the same name living in the vineyard. </p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/95/c4/95c4764a964be283c8cdcc8244bfca29.jpg" /></p>
<p><em>"I have no idea how it got here. But it's useful to hide in when it rains or it's cold!"</em></p>
<p>Hey, at least this is one <glossary term="Lieu-Dit" title="594">lieu-dit</glossary> where we actually know the name's origin! If you pay attention, you'll also notice the truck on all of Joachim's labels along with some <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Terrace" title="1022">terraces</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> a fisherman and <glossary term="Collioure" title="319">Collioure</glossary>'s famous church Notre Dame des Anges.</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/14/7b/147be6451c4bf2a2d6972a829b4e6774.png" /></p>
<p> </p>
<p><em>"If you're driving in the area, you can see the truck from pretty far away. We've thought of painting it with our name and having tastings in it. Maybe one day." </em></p>
<p>From this <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcel</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> an "Esta Fête" white and red are produced. Grape wise, it’s a traditional <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcel</glossary> planted with the three colors of <glossary term="Grenache" title="508">Grenache</glossary> along with some <glossary term="Carignan" title="237">Carignan</glossary> and a tiny bit of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Roussanne" title="878">Roussanne</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> </p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/74/ab/74abdea4b90bda92113c5d0b035b553b.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/d6/45/d645b458f9fc901af39108debb63fba4.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/25/65/2565c72ca2b29eaf597a31da3afbf58f.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/5a/40/5a400833ad816e7f313e2962a2eb1cea.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/cf/52/cf527e5f5a6556b1a19a052911cfbe1a.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/c6/69/c669428e47d62d2a906c6cbb92260e39.jpg" /></p>
<p>The view is not too bad either:</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/39/23/392362bc727801e73d8fe588acef57b3.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/ee/15/ee150d60dcf1778da684600911007215.jpg" /></p>
<p>Directly above Joachim's vines, Manuel from Vinyer de la Ruca has one of his biggest vineyards. I covered it extensively in my 2019 Vinyer de la Ruca visit and recommend you read about if there. </p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/21/fc/21fc5fe187a73b80d0e9df32c7c21bd2.jpg" /></p>
<p>If you look closely in the photo above, you'll notice sheep. They thought we were there to feed them and were very disappointed. </p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/91/d2/91d23ccc9e9d66a7b902add9e991be95.jpg" /></p>
<p>One thing I hadn't caught back in 2019 was that a large proportion of the grapes in Manuel's <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcel</glossary> go into the <glossary term="Blend" title="168">blend</glossary> for "Morango", a <glossary term="Cuvée" title="363">cuvée</glossary> from Tutti Frutti Ananas. </p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/61/b7/61b7cd1622e36536e33d2ff4066084d8.jpg" /></p>
<p>With the sheep still booing (behhhing?) us, we got back in the car, driving closer to <glossary term="Collioure" title="319">Collioure</glossary> itself to visit a second sector.</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/70/79/7079905bb7bcf264d276cc51cbefdfac.jpg" /></p>
<p>Here the <glossary term="Terrace" title="1022">terraces</glossary> are much more spaced out and at a lower <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Elevation" title="419">elevation</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> The three <glossary term="Grenache" title="508">Grenaches</glossary> are planted with <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Carignan" title="237">Carignan</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> but Joachim is planting other varieties for fun because it is one of the only sectors in <glossary term="Collioure" title="319">Collioure</glossary> that is <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Mechanization" title="645">mechanizable</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> These are also the only vines Joachim owns.</p>
<p>It was lunch time, so we headed back to town for a lovely meal accompanied by Joachim's 2021's. </p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/f1/a1/f1a15a58ffc0ac115f605046db044a06.jpg" /></p>
<p>The wines were all showing quite well despite it being a very complicated <glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintage</glossary> with long <glossary term="Fermentation" title="441">fermentations</glossary> and a particularly worrisome spike of <glossary term="Volatile Acidity" title="1116">volatile acidity</glossary> that forced Joachim to add a gram of <glossary term="Sulfites" title="993">sulfur</glossary> to the wines before <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Bottling" title="185">bottling</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> This is the first time Joachim has used <glossary term="Sulfites" title="993">S02</glossary> in his own production. He feels it's a concession but does not regret the decision. </p>
<p>After lunch, we got to be tourists for 10 minutes since the restaurant was right next to Notre Dame des Anges (which was unfortunately under repair scaffolding.)</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/03/78/03784ac9f7446127ccb9990e19bc6476.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/64/f6/64f6e022a7446d1bb1bbdaae67231cee.jpg" /></p>
<p>On the way back to <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Banyuls" title="135">Banyuls</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> we stopped by Joachim's third sector in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Collioure" title="319">Collioure</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> </p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/5f/ea/5fea7210163714b013e5075d2f70bef5.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/63/21/6321df73001129619c316c3a27c214f5.jpg" /><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/53/55/5355e12d168cf4fb67b8907f3df4fdca.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/e9/3a/e93a918ba5daa2764757f8042eb1164e.jpg" /></p>
<p>As you can see, these vines are directly above <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Collioure" title="319">Collioure</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Along with the traditional <glossary term="Grenache" title="508">Grenaches</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Carignan" title="237">Carignan</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> Joachim has planted <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Roussanne" title="878">Roussanne</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary term="Vermentino" title="1081">Vermentino </glossary>and <glossary term="Mourvèdre" title="692">Mourvèdre</glossary> in this area along with more <glossary term="Grenache Gris" title="1158">Grenache Gris</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Grenache Blanc" title="509">Grenache Blanc</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> A huge and unprecedented storm destroyed a lot of the vines here in 2014, so it was an opportunity to start fresh with these less traditional grapes. It was also a ton of work as they had to rebuild the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Terrace" title="1022">terraces</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p>Before linking with Manuel from Vinyer de la Ruca, we stopped by the Carterole <glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary> to taste a last wine Joachim had forgotten at lunch.</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/2d/ad/2dad287bfe791f18b7dd727d5288d708.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//937/c7/40/c7401652e6006efb390d26119632e952.jpg" /></p>
<p>As with all the producers working out of the 9 Caves, the spaces are tiny and everything fits where it can. These bare bones <glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellars</glossary> really afirm that the quality of these wines is coming from the <glossary term="Terroir" title="1026">terroir</glossary> first and foremost.</p>
Domaine Carterole Producer Profile
Domaine Carterole Producer Profile
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producer profile
<p>Joachim Roque is a native of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Collioure" title="319">Collioure</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> the famed medieval town on the Mediterranean coast of French <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Catalunya" title="247">Catalunya</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> While tourism now reigns as its principle economy, for generations <glossary term="Collioure" title="319">Collioure</glossary> was a fisherman’s village. To supplement their income, keep busy in the off-season and have wine for personal consumption, all fishermen had vines. Joachim’s grandfather was the last major fisherman of the village, and from a young age his grandson would help out on weekends during the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvest</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> After a failed first year of university, Roque decided to stop school and start working; athletic and a fan of the outdoors, working in the vines seemed like a good fit.</p>
<p>In <glossary term="Collioure" title="319">Collioure</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Banyuls" title="135">Banyuls</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> the <glossary term="Cave Cooperative" title="252">cave cooperatives</glossary> have a quasi-monopole of locally grown grapes. Almost all of its members work <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Conventional Farming" title="331">conventionally</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> yet somehow Joachim landed at the only <glossary term="Organic Certification" title="260">certified organic</glossary> <glossary term="Vigneron/Vignaiolo" title="1089">vigneron</glossary> in the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Cave Cooperative" title="252">coop</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> This <glossary term="Vigneron/Vignaiolo" title="1089">vigneron</glossary> was an outlier for good reason: the <glossary term="Terrace" title="1022">terraces</glossary> of <glossary term="Banyuls" title="135">Banyuls</glossary> and <glossary term="Collioure" title="319">Collioure</glossary> are notoriously hard to work and low <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Yield" title="1129">yielding</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> even more so in <glossary term="Organic" title="746">organics</glossary> where all the soil work has to be done manually.</p>
<p>Joachim’s boss may have been the only “<glossary term="Organic" title="746">bio</glossary>” in the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Cave Cooperative" title="252">coop</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> but he wasn’t completely alone in the area. Seen as total lunatics by the locals, a handful of <glossary term="Vigneron/Vignaiolo" title="1089">vignerons</glossary> had started trickling in from other regions or countries, doing everything manually, making the wines themselves and even selling the stuff. The legendary Alain Castex was first, followed by Bruno Duchêne and Manuel di Vecchi Staraz of Vinyer de la Ruca. Bruno was already purchasing grapes from Joachim’s employer, and this is how Roque was introduced to this microcosm of forward thinkers. </p>
<p>Inspired by this small group of <glossary term="Vigneron/Vignaiolo" title="1089">vignerons</glossary> working <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Organic" title="746">organically</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> in 2010 Joachim decided to set out on his own and join the <span class="zalup"><span> <glossary term="Cave Cooperative" title="252">coop</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> He found a <glossary term="Viticulture" title="1103">viticulture</glossary> program in nearby <glossary term="Rivesaltes" title="863">Rivesaltes</glossary> and enrolled in their first year teaching an <glossary term="Organic" title="746">organic</glossary> curriculum. When it came time to pick an internship, Roque felt it made no sense learning in a <glossary term="Mechanization" title="645">mechanizable</glossary> farm. It had to be his native <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Terrace" title="1022">terraces</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> and the tiny amount of <glossary term="Organic" title="746">organic</glossary> producers made for an easy placement at Alain Castex’s Casot des Mailloles. With Alain he learned everything about <glossary term="Viticulture" title="1103">viticulture</glossary> in the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Terrace" title="1022">terraces</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> which he’s summed up to us in three words: “<span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Xadic" title="1465">xadic</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary term="Xadic" title="1465">xadic</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Xadic" title="1465">xadic</glossary><span>!</span></span></span>”</p>
<p>From there, finding vines was not hard: huge swaths of land were abandoned. Through his local connections, Joachim easily amassed an ambitious 14 <span class="zalup"><span> <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> mostly from particularly hard to work <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcels</glossary> in bad shape.</p>
<p>From his second <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvest</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> Roque started selling grapes to Bruno Duchêne and the two quickly became friends. In 2012, Bruno launched Les 9 Caves, a revamp of <glossary term="Banyuls" title="135">Banyuls</glossary>’ old <glossary term="Cave Cooperative" title="252">cave cooperative</glossary> (the <glossary term="Cave Cooperative" title="252">coop</glossary> had abandoned the <glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary> in town for a modern facility in its outskirts) fully decked out with a retail shop, restaurant, guest houses and nine small <glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellars</glossary> destined to small, independent <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vigneron/Vignaiolo" title="1089">vignerons</glossary><span>:</span></span></span> a <glossary term="Cave Cooperative" title="252">cave cooperative</glossary> of independents! One day Bruno asked Joachim if he’d ever want to make wine and proposed him one of the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellars</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Flustered, Roque told him he had no idea how to <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vinification" title="1104">vinify</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> This was right around <glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvest</glossary>; Bruno told Joachim that if he wanted, he could help out in the <glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary> every night and he’d show him how he worked. Taking him up on his offer, Joachim observed, asked questions and got inspired.</p>
<p>In 2014, a scant 1500 bottles of Domaine Carterole wines were produced from a small part of Joachim’s grapes. By 2017, it was dawning on Roque that working 14 <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> of <glossary term="Collioure" title="319">Collioure</glossary> <glossary term="Terrace" title="1022">terraces</glossary> <glossary term="Organic" title="746">organically</glossary> was untenable. Having recently relocated to the nearby village of Saint-André, he began relinquishing many <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> on the <glossary term="Terrace" title="1022">terraces</glossary> and replacing them with vines in his new village. Only 15 minutes from <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Collioure" title="319">Collioure</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> the <glossary term="Terroir" title="1026">terroirs</glossary> of Saint-André are <glossary term="Alluvial" title="93">alluvial</glossary> and relatively flat, permitting <glossary term="Mechanization" title="645">mechanization</glossary> and producing “proper” <glossary term="Yield" title="1129">yields</glossary> of 4<span class="zalup"><span>0<glossary term="hl/ha" title="528">hl/h</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p>Today Joachim splits his time between 8.5 <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> in <glossary term="Collioure" title="319">Collioure</glossary> and 12 <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> in Saint-André. Still working at the 9 Caves, he is planning to build a <glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary> in Saint-André for the 2023 <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintage</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> As of 2021, he no longer sells grapes to the <glossary term="Cave Cooperative" title="252">cave cooperative</glossary>; at the time of this writing, roughly 40% of his grapes goes into the production of Domaine Carterole, the rest into the Tutti Frutti Ananas project and to Bruno Duchêne. Hey, we import all three!</p>
Domaine Carterole Interview
An Interview with Joachim Roque from 2022
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interview
<p><strong>You’re originally from the region and from a viticultural family right?</strong></p>
<p>I’m from the region but not exactly from a <glossary term="Viticulture" title="1103">viticultural</glossary> family. I was born and raised in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Collioure" title="319">Collioure</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> my grandfather was the last fisherman of the village. Back then, it was traditional for fisherman to own vines as a second occupation; the winter season was much slower for fish so it was something else to do. So I’ve always been around vines, doing <glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvests</glossary> every year. Pretty much everyone worked for the <glossary term="Cave Cooperative" title="252">cave cooperative</glossary> of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Banyuls" title="135">Banyuls</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> at the time all the grapes went into making the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vin Doux" title="1095">vin doux</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p><strong>How much land did your grandfather have?</strong></p>
<p>Back then every family had two or three <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> it was a complementary activity and not seen as a full time job. When my grandfather got older, it was his brother-in-law who started taking care of the vines. He had about eight <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> and those <glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvests</glossary> are my earliest memories in the vines. My grandmother had eight children and it was a big weekend activity: the whole family would <glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvest</glossary> and she’d cook for everyone.</p>
<p><strong>So you inherited land?</strong></p>
<p>I did not. No one from my family kept my great uncle’s vines. As you know, the popularity of <glossary term="Banyuls" title="135">Banyuls</glossary> and <glossary term="Vin Doux" title="1095">vin doux</glossary> has been in free fall for quite a while. So he’d sold off most of his land and kept very little.</p>
<p>I went through high school but flunked out of university, it was not my thing. So I needed to start working. I ended up working for a <glossary term="Vigneron/Vignaiolo" title="1089">vigneron</glossary> who sold to the <glossary term="Cave Cooperative" title="252">cave cooperative</glossary> but worked <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Organic" title="746">organically</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> I’ve always been an athletic person, so I took a liking to the the physical aspect and being outside. That was in 2008.</p>
<p><strong>How long did you work with this vigneron and what led to your own project?</strong></p>
<p>I worked with him for about a year. He was the only one working in <glossary term="Organic" title="746">organics</glossary> for the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Cave Cooperative" title="252">coop</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> so he knew all the “crazy” independent <glossary term="Vigneron/Vignaiolo" title="1089">vignerons</glossary> working in the same way: Alain Castex, Bruno Duchêne, Manuel di Vecchi Staraz… and he was also selling them a bit of his crop for a little extra income. So that was my introduction to that microcosm.</p>
<p>Working <glossary term="Organic" title="746">organically</glossary> felt natural to me and meeting these small independent <glossary term="Vigneron/Vignaiolo" title="1089">vignerons</glossary> coming from other regions was inspiring. In 2010, I decided I wanted to start my own project. So I followed a <glossary term="Viticulture" title="1103">viticultural</glossary> program in <span class="zalup"><span> <glossary term="Rivesaltes" title="863">Rivesaltes</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> mainly so I could touch subventions from the government. It was the first year they were offering an <glossary term="Organic" title="746">organic</glossary> curriculum, so that meant my internship would de facto be with someone who was <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Organic Certification" title="260">certified</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Being from <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Collioure" title="319">Collioure</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> it didn’t make sense to me to go somewhere flat and learn tractor work; I needed someone in <glossary term="Collioure" title="319">Collioure</glossary>/<span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Banyuls" title="135">Banyuls</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Fortunately for me, there weren’t a ton of choices and I ended up with Alain Castex. He taught me everything about <glossary term="Organic" title="746">organic</glossary> <glossary term="Viticulture" title="1103">viticulture</glossary> in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Banyuls" title="135">Banyuls</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> which I will sum up as: the <glossary term="Xadic" title="1465">xadic</glossary> and the <glossary term="Xadic" title="1465">xadic</glossary> and the <glossary term="Xadic" title="1465">xadic</glossary> (laughs). But my time there did not coincide with the <glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvest</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vinification" title="1104">vinifications</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> so I was not able to learn anything from him in that respect.</p>
<p>Being from the area, it wasn’t that hard finding land. These were more or less abandoned by <glossary term="Cave Cooperative" title="252">cooperative</glossary> farmers because they were not very productive. But honestly it was good for me, I learned a lot from the hard work and low <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Yield" title="1129">yields</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> So I started with a few <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> and was bringing my grapes to the cooperative. 2011 was my first <glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvest</glossary> and in 2012 I started finding more land. I was still bringing everything to the <glossary term="Cave Cooperative" title="252">coop</glossary> but working most <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcels</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Organic" title="746">organically</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Talking to Alain and Bruno Duchêne, they said they might be interested in my grapes and that’s how I started selling some to Bruno.</p>
<p>By 2013, Bruno and I had become close. He was in the early stages of the 9 Caves project, and told me: “You’re 25, you’re from the area. You don’t want to make your own wine here?” I told him I had no idea how to make wine, that Alain hadn’t been able to show me. This was around <glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvest</glossary> time, so he told me that if I wanted, I could come by after the day’s work picking and help him out in the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> see how it works and ask questions. So my first lessons in winemaking were with Bruno.</p>
<p>It was great because Bruno is someone who’d been in other regions, had experience past the <glossary term="Terroir" title="1026">terroirs</glossary> of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Banyuls" title="135">Banyuls</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> So I got to absorb his techniques for his wines, but also ask how it was done elsewhere. If I have one regret, it’s that I started so young in my native land and didn’t spend any time seeing how it’s done in other parts of France and the world.</p>
<p><strong>So this was the spark.</strong></p>
<p>Yes. From this experience I decided to make my own wine. But I started with very little independent production and continued to sell to the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Cave Cooperative" title="252">coop</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> This assured revenue that I could re-invest into my own <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> My first <glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintage</glossary> with Domaine Carterole was 2014.</p>
<p><strong>How has Domaine Carterole evolved since that first vintage?</strong></p>
<p>From 2014 to 2017, I’d say about 80% of my production was still going to the <glossary term="Cave Cooperative" title="252">cave cooperative </glossary>and a little bit to Bruno. I had managed to rent 14 <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> of vines at that point, all in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Collioure" title="319">Collioure</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> But I realized it was going to be impossible to working all of these <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Organic" title="746">organically</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> at least economically. So from 2017 to 2020, I let go of a lot of the <glossary term="Terrace" title="1022">terraces</glossary> and searched for flatter land that was at least partly <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Mechanization" title="645">mechanizable</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> These ended up being in the sector of Saint-André, the village where I live. It was too much land for my own production, so that was also the impetus for Tutti Frutti Ananas. This was 2017.</p>
<p>So 2017 was a turning point. The years prior I was making between 1500 and 3000 bottles, it was nothing. From 2017 to 2020 I made between 4000 and 7500 bottles. And 2021 another milestone, because I acquired more vines in Saint-André but also decided to completely stop with the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Cave Cooperative" title="252">cave cooperative</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> One of the biggest reasons I was so conservative in the early years was that I worried I wouldn’t be able to sell my production. But now I’m confident I can do it and aim to make about 15 000 bottles a year.</p>
<p><strong>14 hectares sounds like a huge amount of land for the area. How much of it was on terraces? How much on flatter land?</strong></p>
<p>It’s true being from the area helped, a lot of people remembered by grandfather. Then my neighbors would see me working the soils with my little caterpillar, they felt compelled talking to the crazy young guy busting his hump. I told them this was my vision for the work in the vines, and a bunch of them actually said that if I wanted, they had land I could rent.</p>
<p>Today I have 8.5 hectares in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Collioure" title="319">Collioure</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> five of those on the traditional <glossary term="Terrace" title="1022">terraces</glossary> where <glossary term="Mechanization" title="645">mechanization</glossary> is impossible. Then I have 12 <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> in Saint-Andrée where I live. <glossary term="Collioure" title="319">Collioure</glossary> is a magnificent <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Terroir" title="1026">terroir</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> but economically it’s very hard to make a living, especially if you work <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Organic" title="746">organically</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> I’d have to sell the wines super expensive or do some <glossary term="Négociant" title="729">négoce</glossary> on the side. In Saint-André I can get 4<span class="zalup"><span>0<glossary term="hl/ha" title="528">hl/h</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> with <glossary term="Yield" title="1129">yields</glossary> like that I can have something to offer quantity-wise at a more reasonable price.</p>
<p><strong>Even eight hectares still sounds like a lot for Collioure.</strong></p>
<p>Some guys have a lot more but it’s worked <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Conventional Farming" title="331">conventionally</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> But yes, I suppose I have a relatively large amount of land, especially for working <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Organic" title="746">organically</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p><strong>What goes into Domaine Carterole versus Tutti Frutti Ananas?</strong></p>
<p>I’d say I <glossary term="Vinification" title="1104">vinify</glossary> about 40% of my production, then the rest goes to Tutti Frutti and to Bruno. Roughly 80% of the grapes that produce Tutti Frutti come from my land.</p>
<p><strong>What does Carterole mean?</strong></p>
<p>It was my grandfather’s nickname. A carterole is the little barrel like the ones Saint Bernards wear around their necks. Back in the day, fishermen would fill theirs up with wine for the day’s work on the boat. The wines were much lighter back then, and grandpa had a reputation for drinking a lot of it. So that’s where the nickname came from.</p>
<p><strong>What grapes are you growing?</strong></p>
<p>In <glossary term="Collioure" title="319">Collioure</glossary> the biggest <glossary term="Plot" title="1133">plot</glossary> I have is a flat <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcel</glossary> of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Syrah" title="1001">Syrah</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> It’s not very traditional, here we always had the three <glossary term="Grenache" title="508">Grenache</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span>(<glossary term="Grenache" title="508">Noir</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Grenache Gris" title="1158">Gris</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary term="Grenache Blanc" title="509">Blanc</glossary>) and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Carignan" title="237">Carignan</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> When they introduced the <glossary term="Collioure" title="319">Collioure</glossary> <glossary term="Appellation" title="113">appellation</glossary> in 1971, those wines are meant to be dry so they started permitting other grapes. Now 15 are allowed; that includes <glossary term="Mourvèdre" title="692">Mourvèdre</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Counoise" title="351">Counoise</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> the latter being very rare. The only guy I knew who still has a lot is Alain Castex. Besides the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Syrah" title="1001">Syrah</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> in <glossary term="Collioure" title="319">Collioure</glossary> I have <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Grenache" title="508">Grenache Noir</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary term="Carignan" title="237">Carignan</glossary> and <glossary term="Mourvèdre" title="692">Mourvèdre</glossary> for red. In white I have <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Grenache Gris" title="1158">Grenache Gris</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Grenache Blanc" title="509">Grenache Blanc</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary term="Vermentino" title="1081">Vermentino</glossary> and some <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Roussanne" title="878">Roussanne</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p>In Saint-André I have <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Grenache Gris" title="1158">Grenache Gris</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Macabeu" title="609">Macabeu</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Syrah" title="1001">Syrah</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Carignan" title="237">Carignan</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary term="Grenache" title="508">Grenache Noir</glossary> and a bit of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Muscat" title="698">Muscat</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> All of this was already there, and two years ago I planted some more <glossary term="Macabeu" title="609">Macabeu</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vermentino" title="1081">Vermentino</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> And this year I’ll plant more of those along with <glossary term="Grenache Blanc" title="509">Grenache Blanc</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Xarel lo" title="1302">Xarello</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p><strong>Being the only local in what you call this microcosm of small vignerons puts you in a fairly unique position. You’re from the region but learned from outsiders; how does that resonate with you personally and for the region as a whole?</strong></p>
<p>Before I met any of these <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vigneron/Vignaiolo" title="1089">vignerons</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> I’d of course heard of them. Locals considered them eccentric oddballs. They thought they were crazy for working this land manually for tiny <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Yield" title="1129">yields</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> I’ll admit that locally people are quite judgmental and wary of outsiders. I know Bruno befriended an old man who taught him how to <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Grafting" title="500">graft</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> but personalities like that are rare around here. </p>
<p>But I also think there was resentment and jealousy. Think about it: 90% of the <glossary term="Vigneron/Vignaiolo" title="1089">vignerons</glossary> are selling to the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Cave Cooperative" title="252">cave cooperative</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> and here come these outsiders with their independent <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Estate" title="427">estates</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> selling the entirety of their production at high prices. Fortunetly I got to know these people and they are extraordinary: they are humble, generous and smart. Bruno gave me the opportunity to have my own <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Knowing I’d be around Bruno and Manuel with Alain just next door, it’s what motivated me to do this. Without their influence, I don’t know where I’d have ended up.</p>
<p>I’m very lucky, they’ve always had my back: tasting my wines, giving me advice, reassuring me, always giving me the time of day. They also introduced me to all their customers! A conventional winemaker, even if he has his own <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Estate" title="427">estate</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> he’s not going to share his customers with a neighbor, he sees them as a competitor. Bruno and Manuel, they’ve taken me to all the fairs, introduced me to people like you, made sure I was around at the right times.</p>
<p>A lot of locals scratch there heads at what we do; this is an area that has lost all of its popularity yet here is this small group of people selling their production. We are happy in what we do, we get along, we share our energy and party together. It’s great.</p>
Domaine la Providence Producer Visit
A visit to Domaine la Providence from March 2022
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producers visit
<p><em><strong>This visit took place in March 2022. Words and photos by Jules Dressner.</strong></em></p>
<p>Ah, <glossary term="Provence" title="831">Provence</glossary>… Lavender! Celebrity wineries! Kermit Lynch! I gotta say, I don’t spend a tremendous amount of time in this region but I get why people dig it. And I also get why we don't visit often: outside of the established classic <glossary term="Estate" title="427">estates</glossary> in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Bandol" title="134">Bandol</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> it’s mostly a a lot of… <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Rosé/Rosato" title="871">rosé</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> <glossary term="Rosé/Rosato" title="871">Rosé</glossary> from celebrities, <glossary term="Rosé/Rosato" title="871">rosé</glossary> in stupidly shaped bottles, <glossary term="Rosé/Rosato" title="871">rosé</glossary> with grapefruit extract… <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Rosé/Rosato" title="871">ROSÉ</glossary><span>!</span></span></span> So why the hell were we in Lambesc, a small village 30 minutes North-West of Aix-en-Provence? To visit Jean Benoit and Bénédicte Comor and their <glossary term="Vigneron/Vignaiolo" title="1089">neo-vigneron</glossary> operation at Domaine la Providence!</p>
<p>Our introduction to their work was through Julien Pineau, who’d worked in <glossary term="Provence" title="831">Provence</glossary> before eventually settling in the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Touraine" title="1036">Touraine</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Over a splendid vegetarian dinner in summer 2021, he <glossary term="Blind Tasting" title="170">blinded</glossary> us on a bottle we all loved. After the reveal, it was clear Julien was <glossary term="schnook" title="1448">schnooking</glossary> us on his friend’s wine: “He made 2000 bottles and it costs this much!” After some communications with Jean Benoit, we agreed to import this single wine, “La Providence”, and to visit as soon as we could.</p>
<p>So here we were. The property, a dilapidated farm house and 18 sprawling <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> of vines, was acquired by the Comor in late 2016. It used to be called La Pomme (“the apple”), which instantly felt off since none were grown there. A new name was inevitable but many of their original choices were taken (more on that later). Eventually they settled on Domaine la Providence; no it’s not named after the city in Rhode Island or religious undertones but for the lesser common use of the word: a person or event that arrives at the right time to save a situation or constitutes an opportunity, an exceptional help.</p>
<p>We began the visit right outside the main entrance, with three <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> of <glossary term="Grenache" title="508">Grenache</glossary> and 0.5h of Caladoc, a <glossary term="Hybrid" title="532">hybrid</glossary> of <glossary term="Grenache" title="508">Grenache</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Malbec" title="366">Côt</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//934/ff/11/ff11c1662198c44db87092dc1f54c584.jpg" /></p>
<p>For the “coup de coeur” <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcels</glossary> (<glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcels</glossary> they feel are truly qualitative, they like working and currently <glossary term="Vinification" title="1104">vinify</glossary> themselves), JB is superficially working every other row of soil while leaving <glossary term="Cover Crop" title="1255">cover-crop</glossary> in the other to rest for a year. They are also replanting old vines on the sites they like. Before Jean-Benoit and Benédicte took over, the vines were worked ultra<span class="zalup"><span><span>-</span><glossary term="Conventional Farming" title="331">conventionally </glossary></span></span>and 95% of the production was destined to <glossary term="Cave Cooperative" title="252">cave cooperative</glossary>'s <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Rosé/Rosato" title="871">rosé</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Everyone around them thinks they are crazy for having <glossary term="Conversion" title="332">converted</glossary> to <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Organic" title="746">organics</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> especially since the first five crops all went to the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Cave Cooperative" title="252">coop</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p>Because <glossary term="Yield" title="1129">yields</glossary> and production were so important to the previous owner, over-plantation was rampant. Very quickly, the Comor ripped out all vines planted on richer soils on the sides of most vineyards, letting them rest or planting fruit and olive trees. JB is planning to rip out an additional five <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> in the main sector of vines by the house, mostly <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Cabernet Sauvignon" title="217">Cabernet Sauvignon</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> The long term goal is to rebuild the landscape to something less <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Monoculture" title="671">monocultural</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> the way they imagine it would have been in the 1970’s. Tearing out these vines would also permit the Comor to build a new <glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary> and, more ambitiously, create <glossary term="Terrace" title="1022">terraces</glossary> in this sector.</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//934/1f/b5/1fb5045df08f717937d1b753364a725e.jpg" /></p>
<p><em>“If you look, you can actually see that with years of </em><glossary term="Chemicals" title="279"><em>chemicals</em></glossary><em>, </em><glossary term="Erosion" title="1153"><em>erosion</em></glossary><em>, tractors and </em><glossary term="Machine Harvesting" title="611"><em>harvest machines</em></glossary><em>, the soil levels dip drastically from the top to the middle of the row. To properly work these soils, you actually can’t use the same tractor. You have to switch mid-way to a caterpillar or by hand.”</em></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//934/a1/9b/a19bb87bc6a3171cf161cc109d078445.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//934/a7/37/a7378109ca04581893fad3c4572db22f.jpg" /></p>
<p>Currently, a large part of the grapes are still destined to the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Cave Cooperative" title="252">cave cooperative</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> For these, they do not work the soils, choosing to clean up the edges of the rows with a disc blade. There tend to be more <glossary term="Esca" title="425">esca</glossary> problems in these <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcels</glossary> and they are not so sure if they want to replant. They are also still <glossary term="Machine Harvesting" title="611">machine-harvesting</glossary> these as the grapes go to the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Cave Cooperative" title="252">coop</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p>Some sectors Jean-Benoît has been preparing for new plantations by letting the soils rest three years after the uprooting. The only thing he’s doing is planting fava beans to bring nutrients and air to the soil. On the white <glossary term="Clay" title="301">clay</glossary> and <glossary term="Limestone" title="596">limestone</glossary> soils, Jean-Benoit has decided to focus exclusively on white grapes, already having planted <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Terret" title="1025">Terret</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Trebbiano/Ugni Blanc" title="1043">Ugni Blanc</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vermentino" title="1081">Vermentino</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Sauvignon Blanc" title="927">Sauvignon Blanc</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Sémillon" title="1003">Semillon</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Macabeu" title="609">Macabeu</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Bourboulenc" title="1253">Bourboulenc</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Grenache Gris" title="1158">Grenache Gris</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary term="-Select term-" title="">Marsanne</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Clairette" title="297">Clairette Rose</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Here is a picture of the biggest new plantation:</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//934/85/52/8552df6b4f523d8c490cdeeff4e012ab.jpg" /></p>
<p>He is purchasing from three separate <glossary term="Pépiniériste" title="773">pépiniéristes</glossary> to get as much <glossary term="Clones" title="304">clonal</glossary> diversity as possible. Many of these <glossary term="Varietal" title="1071">varieties</glossary> are not permitted in the <glossary term="Appellation" title="113">appellation</glossary> but since the plan is to make everything in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vin de France" title="1092">VDF</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> the constraints are limited.</p>
<p>One of the major <glossary term="Plateau" title="809">plateaux</glossary> close to the farm is all <glossary term="Gravel" title="504">gravel</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Limestone" title="596">limestone</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Here there is mostly <glossary term="Syrah" title="1001">Syrah</glossary> planted in 1993. The big project in this <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcel</glossary> is to add <glossary term="Palissage" title="757">palissage</glossary> so he can control the vines better. They’ve also been replanting like crazy here, in total 2200 vines with 1100 more on the way in 2022.</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//934/a2/db/a2db722573034970ad33814685730aa4.jpg" /></p>
<p>As you can see in the picture above, <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcels</glossary> with young vines have <glossary term="Irrigation" title="549">irrigation</glossary> tubes and need to be watered the first three years of their life, it's just too dry otherwise. The <glossary term="Provence" title="831">Provence</glossary> region is actually very involved in this: they provide access to the <glossary term="Irrigation" title="549">irrigation</glossary> but also control the levels of water you are allowed to use by analyzing the stress levels of vines. As far as I know, no other region is this involved in the process. JB estimates that a young plant doesn’t need to be <glossary term="Irrigation" title="549">irrigated</glossary> after three or so years.</p>
<p>We then saw another young plantation of white grapes: <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vermentino" title="1081">Vermentino</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary term="Marsanne" title="634">Marsanne</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Carignan Blanc" title="1306">Carignan Blanc</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//934/2b/aa/2baadc08294c564501bfa79c68d89bef.jpg" /></p>
<p>In the area, white mustard grows on <glossary term="Limestone" title="596">limestone</glossary> and is indicative of healthy soils. Good news: we spotted it everywhere!</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//934/b7/fb/b7fbcd016375b01acedf901250526f2b.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//934/20/4e/204eaf7f6639e54f841be7c712f4c751.jpg" /></p>
<p>We then hopped into the car to see the <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcels</glossary> further from the house. The first stop was a <glossary term="Plot" title="1133">plot</glossary> of <glossary term="Carignan" title="237">Carignan</glossary> planted in 1985. The soils here are <glossary term="Clay" title="301">clay</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Limestone" title="596">limestone</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Jean-Benoit likes it because it’s well protected from the wind.</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//934/e4/78/e478989a0c29e32c33da9fd2e85211de.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//934/7d/05/7d052dfdda00026e49798c3f976dfbe3.jpg" /></p>
<p>Around this point in the visit, I turned to my colleague Carl and said something equivalent to “this is a shit ton of work.” What was already and currently being done, plus all the future plans: what a tremendous undertaking! I asked Jean Benoit if he anticipated or planned on such an intense project.</p>
<p><em>“I had no idea. We visited in summer, the vegetation was gorgeous and we instantly fell in love with the property. But we were also reasoning for our family. With six children at home, it was good to be close to things: schools, extracurricular activities... Even going out on a date to have dinner or see a movie in Aix-en-Provence! We also have relatives close by. I’ve had eight different jobs before settling down here, I was always moving around. Here I feel what I am doing matters. But I didn’t know how to drive a tractor in 2017!”</em></p>
<p>The next <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcel</glossary> we visited was mostly <glossary term="Syrah" title="1001">Syrah</glossary> and <glossary term="Carignan" title="237">Carignan</glossary> planted in 1966 on pure <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Sand" title="909">sand</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Here they are working the soils as they like the sector, with the ultimate goal of only mowing over <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Cover Crop" title="1255">cover-crops</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> There was also another young plantation of white grapes, this time <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Macabeu" title="609">Macabeu</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Bourboulenc" title="1253">Bourboulenc</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary term="Grenache Gris" title="1158">Grenache Gris</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Clairette" title="297">Clairette Rose</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//934/03/f0/03f0d4e8ec1310dc342e4ea7f9ae69d7.jpg" /></p>
<p>After an extensive tour of the vines, we headed to the <glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary> to taste some 2021’s. Nothing had been <glossary term="Bottling" title="185">bottled</glossary> save a juicy <glossary term="Carignan" title="237">Carignan</glossary>/<glossary term="Syrah" title="1001">Syrah</glossary> called "Chemin Faisant." This loosely translates to “the path being created in real time.”</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//934/21/c2/21c243f5e4ec3c1494c9ba24a1ebc5a5.jpg" /></p>
<p>While there are <glossary term="Fiberglass" title="445">fiberglass</glossary> and <glossary term="Stainless Steel" title="986">stainless steel</glossary> <glossary term="Vat/Tank" title="1140">tanks</glossary> in the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> the majority of what was <glossary term="Vinification" title="1104">vinified</glossary> in 2021 was sitting in 500L <glossary term="Burgundian" title="210">Burgundian</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Barrel" title="142">barrels</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Those saw <glossary term="Battonage" title="147">bâtonnage</glossary><glossary term="Battonage" title="147"></glossary> twice day and were <glossary term="Racking/Soutirage" title="843">racked</glossary> after <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Malolactic Fermentation" title="622">malo</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Fun aside: whenever a <glossary term="Barrel" title="142">barrel</glossary> was <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Racking/Soutirage" title="843">racked</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> Jean-Benoit chose to write a current event he’d heard on the news that day in chalk.</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//934/7c/b7/7cb71bb8aa89f99cc348c3566bce74be.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//934/02/a2/02a2ae8ac1f6adbd9fb8e34fa8aeff33.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//934/48/46/4846569b411f003c4fa6166b2d474885.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//934/7e/fe/7efe0c894ec61c6a4037bce57a75eea3.jpg" /></p>
<p><em>“It’s fun for the kids and helps me remember what happened on what day.”</em></p>
<p>This being the first “real” <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintage</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> it wasn’t decided what <glossary term="Blend" title="168">blends</glossary> or <glossary term="Bottling" title="185">bottlings</glossary> would come from what we’d tasted. 2021 was an atypical <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintage </glossary></span></span>with a lot of rain that slowed <glossary term="Maturation" title="639">maturation</glossary> and limited <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Concentration" title="324">concentration</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p>Over dinner, we found out that the Comor have been together since college and dreamed of starting an <glossary term="Estate" title="427">estate</glossary> for the last 20 years. They seriously started pursuing the idea in the 2010's and almost settled in the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Beaujolais" title="151">Beaujolais</glossary><span>, where they</span></span></span> met and befriended many locals who could have easily helped them find land. But Jean Benoit’s determination to also make <glossary term="Saint-Véran" title="900">Saint-Véran</glossary> and <glossary term="Pouilly-Fuissé" title="820">Pouilly-Fuissé</glossary> at the same time proved too complicated. There was also an opportunity in <glossary term="Limoux" title="597">Limoux</glossary> that fell through.</p>
<p>Perhaps the funniest detail we unearthed was that they’d originally wanted to call the <glossary term="Estate" title="427">estate</glossary> Domaine du Possible but, as some of you may already know, it was already taken! We just so happened to have bottles from our visit with Loïc Roure, so we opened some up since they’d never tried them.</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//934/54/15/5415a4862a471fdd7b872b150f96afef.jpg" /></p>
<p><em>“We wanted to call it Domaine du Possible because for 20 years we were always getting shut down. But Providence works.”</em></p>
2021 Domaine de Bellivière Visit
This visit to Domaine de Bellivière took place in July, 2021
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producers visit
<p>Man it had been a long time since we'd visited Bellivière! After catching up with Christine and Eric, Clément and his wife Laure-Anne pulled up and we headed directly to one of the four <glossary term="Tuffeau" title="1053">tuffeau</glossary> <glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellars</glossary> to taste the <glossary term="Bottling" title="185">un-bottled</glossary> 2020's. </p>
<p><em>"It feels good to have all four </em><glossary term="Cellar" title="254"><em>cellars</em></glossary><em> full this </em><glossary term="Vintage" title="1109"><em>vintage</em></glossary><em>!"</em></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//932/e4/5e/e45e77d38439f3e212ad8de191723ef0.jpg" /></p>
<p>We started by tasting many <glossary term="Barrel" title="142">barrels</glossary> destined for "Les Rosiers" 2020. The Nicolas were hoping the <glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintage</glossary> will be <glossary term="Dry/Sec" title="405">dry</glossary> and by the time of this writing, the wines will have been <glossary term="Bottling" title="185">bottled</glossary> in November 2021. Because they had such a plentiful <glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvest</glossary> in 2020, "Premices" will come from <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcels</glossary> that would have usually been reserved for "Les Rosiers". And many <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcels</glossary> intended for the <glossary term="Old Vines" title="740">old vine</glossary> "Calligramme" will end end up in "Les Rosiers".</p>
<p>At this point nothing had been <glossary term="Blending" title="1146">blended</glossary> and we were tasting single <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcel</glossary> expresssions.</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//932/94/7e/947e4d25de34a9a944f93cc4624c08f3.jpg" /></p>
<p>If you're wondering what happened to Eric's hand, he sprained it while defending himself from a ninja attack.</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//932/37/19/3719d0a6821ce97b99b5f9b1312e3f22.jpg" /></p>
<p>Fun fact: for the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Chenin Blanc" title="281">Chenin Blanc</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> the Nicolas do a seven hour <span class="zalup"><span> <glossary term="Pressing" title="827">press</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p>We kept tasting through various <glossary term="Barrel" title="142">barrels</glossary> of "Effraie" and "V.V Éparses". Trying the whites from <glossary term="Barrel" title="142">barrel</glossary> at Bellivière is always a little tricky, since each varies greatly in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Minerality" title="662">minerality</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary term="Acidity" title="71">acidity</glossary> and oftentimes sugars. It's an interesting exercise, but ultimately Eric and Clément's <glossary term="Blending" title="1146">blending</glossary> choices will make for a totally different expression in bottle. We did however try one <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Single Vineyard Bottling" title="959">single vineyard expression</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> the "Vigne en Foule" <glossary term="Plot" title="1133">plot</glossary> we would later vist. It was already <glossary term="Dry/Sec" title="405">dry</glossary> and very good.</p>
<p>Here's a picture of the Nicolas' dog I took for my mom.</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//932/8e/8f/8e8f7f7e12d1146dfc8726539b7372d5.jpg" /></p>
<p>From the <glossary term="Tuffeau" title="1053">tuffeau</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellars</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> we headed to the new <glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary> to taste the reds.</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//932/69/8d/698d38657f9647a5faa53fb9d18e386e.jpg" /></p>
<p>We started with a new <glossary term="Vessel" title="1160">vessel</glossary> for Bellivière, a <glossary term="Concrete Egg" title="1284">concrete egg</glossary> you can see in the background of the above shot. 2/3rds of the wine was <glossary term="Maceration" title="610">macerated</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Whole-Cluster" title="1124">whole-cluster</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> We also tried some Hommage à Louis Derré from <glossary term="Barrel" title="142">barrel</glossary> before delving into some of the <glossary term="Négociant" title="729">négociant</glossary> wines, specifically "Raisins Migrateurs" 2020 and 2019 as well as the new <glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintage</glossary> of "Castor".</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//932/72/8d/728d274471f527c15c7c6aaed6c5da69.jpg" /></p>
<p>Despite the afternoon sun high in the sky, after tasting we set off to see some vines. Our first stop was the "vigne en foule", an experiment started in 2001:</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//932/5b/ec/5bec7d5f6a5a286f70a2904dca54f962.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//932/eb/82/eb823ac8d666776e7e672c914989c6ff.jpg" /><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//932/dd/a7/dda77494a0c6ca2f2392814e52091cfb.jpg" /></p>
<p>"The vignes en foule (“crowded vines”) were planted in 2001 at a density of 40,000 vines of <glossary term="Chenin Blanc" title="281">Chenin</glossary> per <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectare</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> It was an experiment on a small area. At this density, with 50 cm x 50 cm between each plant, everything is done by hand and we cannot <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Mechanization" title="645">mechanize</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> The term “en foule” means without <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Training System" title="1039">vine training</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Mark Angeli had had an experiment like this and he ended up tearing the plants out to be able to <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Mechanization" title="645">mechanize</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p>Since planting, we have never really been able to <glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvest</glossary> because we couldn't manage it properly. But since Clément joined us, we have undertaken a lot of work on it, in particular the training of the <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcel</glossary> into a <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Pergola" title="774">pergola</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> We have also covered the ground with mulch to minimize grass regrowth.</p>
<p>So this year (2020), for the first time, we were able to <glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvest</glossary> it properly. The pickers were delighted because they had the impression of entering a "forest" of vines and the picking was within reach without having to bend down.</p>
<p>The aim of this experiment is to see the impact of competition from the vines on the rooting and therefore the result on the wine."</p>
<p>This vineyard has also led to some interesting discoveries Nicolas have started applying to other <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcels</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> On one <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Plot" title="1133">plot</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> they are planting with more density now to create shade for the other vineyards to avoid <font color="#7b143e"><b><glossary term="Grillure" title="1462">grillure</glossary></b></font><span class="zalup"><span><span>.</span></span></span> On another, they are letting the vines have less density, which will permit them to grow higher and free-er. The goal is to adapt and ultimately do less to the plant, but also expose them to less trauma during the growing season. With over 65 <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcels</glossary> at their disposal, the Nicolas are exceptionally suited for this type of experimentation. </p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//932/af/8c/af8cf0cbb3f3d7896ca8f45095946bda.jpg" /></p>
<p>From the vines, we headed back to the house to taste currently <glossary term="Bottling" title="185">bottled</glossary> wines before dinner. </p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//932/7c/ce/7ccefbe800abda44d2f8752d64748ae9.jpg" /><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//932/c1/29/c129b07c9e471c1fd85966b1d8cc62e4.jpg" /><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//932/32/6a/326a02b8b631d6c529610e14d98b56c6.jpg" /><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//932/9c/c1/9cc1ef04b6991fea2c227275a1734747.jpg" /></p>
<p>After tasting, we took advantage of the nice weather to barbecue outside (it had and continued to be a very rainy summer). Over a delicious meal of sausages and a few back <glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintages</glossary> from the mid-to-late aughts, Eric's optimism resonated:</p>
<p><em>"I believe we can fight against </em><glossary term="Frost" title="1135"><em>frost</em></glossary><em> using natural methods. But it's a risk and a long term investment. We are currently in our third year of converting the vines."</em></p>
<p>Clément, who is now fully at the helm of the estate's <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Viticulture" title="1103">viticulture</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> agreed. </p>
<p>By this point in our <glossary term="Loire Valley" title="602">Loire</glossary> trip, we'd experienced quite a bit of doom and gloom in the vines, so it was good to hear the Nicolas motivated and actively working towards facing the major challenges of climate change. They weren't the first to bring it up, but their particular drive was a turning point of the trip for me. I am still worried for northern French <glossary term="Viticulture" title="1103">viticulture</glossary>; the 2010's have made it abundantly clear that for it to have a future, adapted and perhaps drastic measures have to be taken immediately.</p>
<p>To be continued... </p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//932/c8/a1/c8a157181097f3ad25f057f54a7dcdad.jpg" /></p>