It has been a horribly hot summer here in France. Record-breaking temperatures and relentless sun. This is not a nation equipped for such heat, there is little or no air conditioning, and the summer has taken a human toll.
And what about the vines?
The harvest has started way earlier then anyone can recall in much of France. The official date here in the Mâconnais was August 13th! Essentially, the hot wave begain in April and has not stopped since. The vine's vegetation cycle is nearly a year in advance throughout France.
It is always difficult to generalize, but this has been amazing year with a little bit of everything in the vineyards. It has been incredibly hot, so alcohol degree is high. Yields are fairly small throughout France, with various regions having suffered from frosts or hailstorms earlier this year. Additionally, the heat has dried out a many vineyards and there is more concentration and less juice then other years.
Dried out grapes are a deep worry. They can add disagreeable tannins and flavors that work to the detriment of the wine's fruitiness.
So, the harvesting has begun and we will have to see, case-by-case what the results are in the vineyard. Apparently, some sources are trumpeting this as the "Vintage of the Century." This is patently absurd at this point -- no wine has been made and the final results are yet to be seen.
Yes, there is a great deal of concentration and small yields, but on the other hand there is a low level of acidity and uneven ripeness. What this will be like several months down the road is still anyone's guess.
Denyse Louis and I happen to be in France through the beginning of September and we went down to Domaine des Terres Dorées in the Beaujolais to watch and minimally participate in the harvest.
Jean-Paul Brun is one of only two Beaujolais producers equipped with a genuine "table de trie". The grapes are dumped out onto the table and are then sorted by hand.
Unlike most Beaujolais producers, Jean-Paul Brun does not do a carbonic maceration, but has a sophisticated destemming machine that cleans up the grapes. Absolutely essential this year, with the state of the incoming harvest. There are beautiful grapes, but also dried out grapes that are eliminated at the sorting table and by the destemmer. The picture below shows me sorting out the crop (ed note: this picture has been lost).
Below is an example of how good this vintage can look. These Gamay grapes are small, ripe and fairly high in alcohol. These grapes, in this batch, are destined for this year's Nouveau.
The final test is to taste the wine. Of course, it is very early and the fermentation is only first beginning. Nevertheless, there seems to solid fruit, good acidity (better acidity then the technical reports) and no lack of alcohol. Below, Denyse Louis, Jean-Paul Brun of Domaine des Terres Dorées and I taste a batch of Nouveau (ed note: this picture has been lost).
We will be posting regular news here as the harvest progress.
Stay tuned....