Touraine Vin de France from Laurent Lebled's A la Vôtre!
Laurent Lebled's A la Vôtre Profile
Quick Facts
Name of Estate
A la Vôtre!/Laurent Lebled
Region
Loire
Country
France
Proprietor
Laurent Lebled
Size
8.5 hectares
Farming
Organic (Not Certified)
Soils
Silicious clay and limestone
Grapes grown
Gamay, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Menu Pineau
Fun facts
Laurent Lebled is one of the rare vignerons who actually caught our attention from emailing us. Jules recognized the "On est Su l'Sable" label from a poster in Valaire.
Laurent Lebled is one of the rare vignerons who actually caught our attention from emailing us. Jules recognized the "On est Su l'Sable" label from a poster in Valaire.
Read more
Quick Facts
Name of Estate
A la Vôtre!/Laurent Lebled
Region
Loire
Country
France
Proprietor
Laurent Lebled
Size
8.5 hectares
Farming
Organic (Not Certified)
Soils
Silicious clay and limestone
Grapes grown
Gamay, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Menu Pineau
Fun facts
Laurent Lebled is one of the rare vignerons who actually caught our attention from emailing us. Jules recognized the "On est Su l'Sable" label from a poster in Valaire.
<p>When Laurent Lebled found himself unemployed after 30+ years working as a wood merchant, wine wasn't exactly the first thing on his mind. The 2008 recession had hit hard, and without any other prospects in the wood industry, it looked like he was flat out of luck. Fortunately, two childhood friends would help him find a new path in a direction he never would have expected.</p>
<p>Those two friends are Sébastien Bobinet and Patrick Corbineau. Sébastien quit his job in 2003 after inheriting two <glossary title="523">hectares</glossary><glossary title="523"> </glossary>of vines from his grandfather. Patrick's story is quite similar: quitting his job at the <glossary title="288">Chinon</glossary><glossary title="288"> </glossary>powerplant after inheriting vines from his grandfather. Despite Lebled not coming from a wine family, owning no vineyards and having never spent a day working in vines or a <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="254">cellar</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> Sébastien insisted that becoming a <glossary title="1089">vigneron</glossary><glossary title="1089"> </glossary>would be a good fit for him. Laurent was reticent, but Sébastien promised he would show him how to do everything. It seemed like a long-shot, but Laurent took the plunge by assisting Bobinet through the 2009 <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1109">vintage</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> </p>
<p>2010 was the first <glossary title="1109">vintage</glossary> of <em>A la Vôtre</em>, a year when Sébastien Bobinet and Patrick Corbineau generously showed Laurent the ins and outs of <glossary title="1103">viticulture</glossary> and winemaking. Laurent now fully helms the operation, producing <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="913">sulfur-free</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary title="236">carbonically macerated</glossary> whites and reds.</p>
<p>The first step to founding the <glossary title="427">estate</glossary> came in finding some vines and a <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="254">cellar</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Laurent had always been a fan of the <strong><glossary title="1036">Touraine</glossary> <glossary title="108">AOC</glossary></strong>, and through friends was able to find 1.7 <glossary title="523">hectares</glossary><glossary title="523"> </glossary>of vines and a <glossary title="254">cellar</glossary> to rent in the commune of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="890">Saint-Aignan</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Shortly after the contract for the vines was signed, the proprietor of the <glossary title="254">cellar</glossary> backed out, forcing Laurent to improvise. On very short notice, he was able to find a <glossary title="264">chai</glossary><glossary title="264"> </glossary>in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="931">Savigny-en-Véron</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> over an hour away from the vines in <span class="zalup"><span> <glossary title="890">Saint-Aignan</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Though far from ideal, Laurent moved things forward by renting an additional 0.5 <glossary title="523">hectares</glossary><glossary title="523"> </glossary>of <glossary title="216">Cabernet Franc</glossary> on <glossary title="909">sandy</glossary> soils right by his newly acquired <glossary title="254">cellar</glossary> and contined to rent the <glossary title="890">Saint-Aignan</glossary> land.</p>
<p>In 2019, Laurent was able to purchase 10 <glossary title="523">hectares</glossary> of vines and a <glossary title="254">cellar</glossary> from a retiring <glossary title="1089">vigneron</glossary> in the same proximity as the <glossary title="890">Saint-Aignan</glossary><glossary title="890"> </glossary>vines he'd been cultivating. He and his wife Sonya now live in Châtillon-sur-Cher, a 12 minute drive to his vineyards. The vines are 30 to 60 years old and the break down as such: 3.32 <glossary title="523">hectares</glossary> of<strong> <glossary title="927">Sauvignon Blanc</glossary></strong>, 1.60HA of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="478">Gamay</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> 0.84HA of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="805">Pinot Noir</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> 0.35HA of <glossary title="648">Menu Pineau</glossary> and 1.85HA of <strong><glossary title="216">Cabernet Franc</glossary></strong> (the remainder is farmed and <glossary title="1104">vinified</glossary> by his daughter Barbara). Despite being an hour drive, he also decided to keep his <glossary title="760">parcel</glossary> of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1143">Picasses</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> The <glossary title="363">cuvées</glossary> will keep the same names but the <glossary title="1104">vinifications</glossary> have evolved slightly with the new<span class="zalup"><span> <glossary title="254">cellar</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> You can read about the <glossary title="1104">vinification</glossary> details by clicking on each wine below.</p>
producer visit12.07.2019
A Visit with Laurent Lebed (2014)
This visit with Laurent Lebed took place in October, 2014
<p><strong><em>This visit with Laurent Lebed took place in October, 2014.</em></strong></p>
<p><strong><em>Words and photos by Jules Dressner.</em></strong></p>
<p>Did you guys know we like wine from the <strong><glossary title="602">Loire</glossary></strong>? Did you know that we work with six producers from <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1036">Touraine</glossary><span>?</span></span></span> Well make it seven!<br />
<br />
I met up with Laurent Lebled in the center square of<span class="zalup"><span> <glossary title="890">Saint-Aignan</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> just a five minute drive from Clos Roche Blanche. From there, it was a quick drive to to a good portion of the land he rents.<br />
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<img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_12//f7/a9/f7a94387714ee580e3663f295f0ea466.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_12//94/76/9476d2ee39ee454ca0bd879640ffe202.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_12//3a/cb/3acb3edd840ccdd4d249c3ea66fdf03d.jpg" /><br />
<br />
Laurent currently rents land from three separate owners. Because he lives too far away, for the time being the <glossary title="890">Saint-Aignan</glossary> owner does all of the <glossary title="1103">viticultural</glossary><glossary title="1103"> </glossary>work here. Laurent makes his specific requests (working the soil, <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1129">yields</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> etc...), then comes with his team to <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="521">harvest</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> And because he <glossary title="1104">vinifies</glossary><glossary title="1104"> </glossary>over an hour away (more on this later), he then shuttles the grapes in a refrigerated truck. <br />
<br />
Originally from <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="919">Saumur</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> Laurent planned to start his estate in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1036">Touraine</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> After some diligent research, he was able to secure rented vines and a<span class="zalup"><span> <glossary title="254">cellar</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> but the guy with the <glossary title="254">cellar</glossary> dropped the ball at the last second. Laurent had to improvise and, as you will see, found himself forced to spread himself all over the place. He currently vinifies over an hour away in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="931">Savigny en Véron</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> but is confident he will eventually relocate to <glossary title="890">Saint-Aignan</glossary> (<strong>ed note:</strong> this finally happened in 2019) <span class="zalup"><span><span>.</span><glossary title="890"> </glossary>L</span></span>aurent has been working the same 1.7 <glossary title="523">hectares</glossary><glossary title="523"> </glossary>here since he started in 2010. <br />
<br />
0.8 <glossary title="523">hectares</glossary><glossary title="523"> </glossary>consist of <glossary title="">Sauvignon </glossary>planted in 1962 on <glossary title="301">clay</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="596">limestone</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> The <glossary title="478">Gamay</glossary><glossary title="478"> </glossary>is <glossary title="941">massale </glossary>from vines planted in 1950 and 1970 in rockier <glossary title="991">subsoils</glossary> which give the wine a more <glossary title="990">structured</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="71">acidity</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> The <glossary title="216">Cabernet Franc</glossary> is on similar soil to the <glossary title="478">Gamay</glossary><glossary title="478"> </glossary>and planted in the 1960's and 1970's. <br />
<br />
Laurent was born and raised in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="919">Saumur</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Before making wine, he was a successful wood merchant for 30 years. Specializing in chestnut trees, he sourced woods from Spain, Portugal and Italy. But by 2008, the recession hit hard and Laurent had to shut up shop.<br />
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<em>"I had never done anything else. But it was clearly the end of an era for this type of work. I had no idea what I was going to do, and never thought about making wine. Not even for a second." </em><br />
<br />
It was his childhood friend Sébastien Bobinet, who himself gave up a first career to tend his grandfather's two <glossary title="523">hectares</glossary> of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="216">Cabernet Franc</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> who proposed that Laurent follow a similar path. After some rigorous research to find land and a cellar, <em>A la Vôtre</em>'s first <glossary title="1109">vintage</glossary><glossary title="1109"> </glossary>was in 2010.<br />
<br />
<em>"I just jumped right into it by learning in the vines. Sébastien helped me through the entire process in 2010, from </em><glossary title="834"><em>pruning</em></glossary><em> to </em><glossary title="1104"><em>vinification</em></glossary><em>. Combined with the additional help of Patrick Corbineau, this gave me the confidence to continue. It's a beautiful second chance. It's an incredible feeling to see something through from beginning to end." </em><br />
<br />
We then drove an hour to <glossary title="288">Chinon</glossary><glossary title="288"> </glossary>country, where Laurent was able to find the <glossary title="264">chai </glossary>where he <glossary title="1104">vinifies</glossary><glossary title="1104"> </glossary>and <glossary title="74">ages</glossary> the wine. Because of its proximity to nice vineyards, he couldn't resist renting some land here as well. This he works 100% from beginning to end. The first <glossary title="1133">plot</glossary> we visited was 0.49 <glossary title="523">hectares</glossary> of <glossary title="216">Cabernet Franc</glossary><glossary title="216"> </glossary>planted on <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="909">pure sand</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> </p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_12//64/34/643499ec018c3455d1586d96aacf713d.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_12//bb/01/bb010377e78968ef44d8b5dfe572a15b.jpg" /><br />
<br />
This <glossary title="1133">plot</glossary> used to be worked <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="331">conventionally</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> and after four years of <glossary title="332">conversion</glossary> Laurent is finally able to easily work the grass and soils.<br />
<br />
<em>"No one wanted this vineyard because the rows are all different (in length) and you can't use machines here."</em><br />
<br />
The grapes here are blended with the <glossary title="216">Cabernet</glossary><glossary title="216"> </glossary>from <glossary title="890">Saint-Aignan</glossary> to make the "On Est Su l' Sable" <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="363">cuvée</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> <br />
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<img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_12//70/65/7065079cc309c3ace3b2cf01f47be09e.jpg" /><br />
<br />
Both sites are <glossary title="1104">vinified</glossary> separately. I was surprised to learn that a parcel this far out could still be classified as <glossary title="1036">Touraine</glossary> <glossary title="108">AOC</glossary><glossary title="1036"> </glossary>wine.<br />
<br />
<em>"It can! The first vintage we made it a </em><glossary term="Touraine" title="1036"><em>Touraine</em></glossary><em><glossary title="1036"> </glossary>wine, but have stuck to </em><glossary title="1092"><em>Vin de France</em></glossary><em> since then." </em><br />
<br />
A lot of replacements have been necessary, and Laurent planted many in 2012. His neighbors also replanted a bunch at the exact same time, and the difference is shocking. Here's Laurent's:</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_12//ec/25/ec2584d42684447e74f92190b2592954.jpg" /><br />
<br />
<br />
And here are his neighbor's:</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_12//35/ec/35eccc3aa235804359462d46fdb7c45f.jpg" /><br />
<br />
<em>"I have no idea how that's even possible."</em><br />
<br />
Me neither.</p>
<p>As we drove off, I couldn't help but feel I'd been to this vineyard before. It all felt eerily familiar...<br />
<br />
We then drove to Laurent's 0.6 <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1143"><em>Les Picasses</em></glossary><span>,</span></span></span> the famed <glossary term="Lieu-Dit" title="594">lieu-dit</glossary><glossary title="594"> </glossary>where Olga Raffault (amongst many others) produce some of their most expressive wines. In fact, it turns out that Laurent's <glossary title="760">parcel</glossary> is direct neighbors Olga Raffault's <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="281">Chenin Blanc</glossary><span>!</span></span></span> </p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_12//fe/ae/feaed666235c8e576c9e124b11878842.jpg" /><br />
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<img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_12//4e/f3/4ef3749b77f18c8bb12b583d49e31819.jpg" /><br />
<br />
This <glossary title="760">parcel</glossary> was also worked <glossary term="Conventional Farming" title="331">conventionally </glossary>prior to Laurent's rental, and in still in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="332">conversion</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> The grapes were looking nice, and Laurent believed he'd <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> a few days later. <br />
<img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_12//df/9d/df9da8197f57b39560295822886d29db.jpg" /><br />
<br />
From <em><strong><glossary title="1143"><em>Les Picasses</em></glossary></strong></em>, we drove to Laurent's <glossary title="1104">vinification </glossary><glossary term="Chai" title="264">chai</glossary>, which just so happens to be in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="931">Savigny-en-Véron</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> the village where Olga Rafault is based. It is literally three doors down from the Raffault house! Neighbors in the vines and in the village!<br />
<br />
We naturally popped in to say hi. Eric and Sylvie had no idea I'd be visiting, and were just returning from picking a parcel in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1143"><em>Les Picasses</em></glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Though Eric was busy getting the grapes into <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1140">tank</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> Sylvie graciously offered us a few drinks of older <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1109">vintages</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> </p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_12//eb/dc/ebdcaa10ce7b091d84c65fe79a4eefcd.jpg" /></p>
<p>As we kept chatting, the fact that they were neighbors in <glossary title="1143"><em>Les Picasses</em></glossary> came up. And from there, it was confirmed that the <glossary title="760">parcel</glossary> that the Raffault produce "Les Barnabés" with is RIGHT NEXT to Laurent's <glossary title="909">sandy</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="760">parcel</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> That's why it felt so familiar! So to recap, Laurent Lebled and the Olga Raffault are neighbors EVERYWHERE. What are the odds? <br />
<br />
As we left for the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="264">chai</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> Laurent was really happy that I introduced him to Eric and Sylvie.<br />
<br />
<em>"This is the first time I'm meeting a colleague and neighbor since I started. Sometimes I feel all alone out here. It's good to know there are nice people just next door!" </em><br />
<br />
In the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="264">chai</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> Laurent showed me his <glossary term="Vinification" title="1104">vinification</glossary><glossary title="1104"> </glossary>process. During <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="441">fermentation</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> he keeps a heater on because it gets very cold in there. He tries keeping it around 20˚. <br />
<br />
The main <glossary term="Vinification" title="1104">vinifications</glossary><glossary title="1104"> </glossary>happen in <glossary title="325">concrete</glossary> <glossary title="1140">tanks</glossary> with wood planks on the bottom. A full <glossary title="236">carbonic maceration</glossary> takes place for 30 days (an average, "normal" <glossary title="236">carbonic maceration</glossary> goes from 10-12 days). Here are the whole <glossary title="1138">clusters</glossary> in tank:</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_12//80/de/80de1908ea2d3280a676c35fe810b638.jpg" /><br />
<img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_12//82/70/82702d4655a2297578a06427f3c305ba.jpg" /><br />
<img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_12//2a/5e/2a5e32148547a317b674577912d719ec.jpg" /><br />
<br />
Once the <glossary term="Fermentation" title="441">fermentation</glossary><glossary title="441"> </glossary>takes place, the grapes are <glossary title="827">pressed</glossary> and <glossary term="Racking/Soutirage" title="843">racked</glossary><glossary title="843"> </glossary>to <glossary title="445">fiberglass</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1140">tanks</glossary><span>:</span></span></span></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_12//b8/db/b8db208fe787638413bb307e7fdc175b.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_12//6d/70/6d707b843e3282d6fd582e2476daf77c.jpg" /></p>
<p>The wines stay on their <glossary term="Lees" title="590">lees</glossary><glossary title="590"> </glossary>until bottling. <br />
<br />
To taste the older <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintages</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> we THEN had to drive to Laurent's storage <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="254">cellar</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> an old <glossary title="1053">tuffeau</glossary> <glossary title="251">cave</glossary> in a neighboring village. </p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_12//e4/5e/e45edc4410f0568476931a8c11dd4f29.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_12//aa/29/aa2914a3b36c778df02971a6ff4c7225.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_12//89/a5/89a5648d76af86b9a091f6d6b62081c0.jpg" /><br />
<br />
Man this is a lot of bouncing around! We did a vertical all the way back to 2010. Each <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1109">vintage</glossary><span>-</span></span></span> and this is not a bad thing- was radically different.<br />
<br />
<em>"I have no shame admitting that I am completely new to this and learning as I go. Every </em><glossary term="Vintage" title="1109"><em>vintage</em></glossary><em><glossary title="1109"> </glossary>has proven to be a completely unique experience, both in the work and in the flavors of the wines." </em><br />
<br />
I found it particularly interesting how the wines are able to keep a more <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="883">rustic</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary term="Terroir" title="1026">terroir</glossary><glossary title="1026"> </glossary>driven quality than most pure <span class="zalup"><span><span>-</span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="236">carbo vinifications</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></span></span> Laurent believes this is due to the extended period of time he lets the <glossary term="Intra-Cellular Fermentation" title="546">intra-cellular fermentation</glossary> occur. <br />
<br />
We THEN drove to <glossary term="Saumur" title="919">Saumur</glossary><glossary title="919"> </glossary>to eat at the excellent Bistro des Jean, a tiny spot doing amazing French bistro fare. Highly recommended. The two owners are originally from <glossary term="Saumur" title="919">Saumur</glossary><glossary title="919"> </glossary>but had a successful place in Paris for years. Eventually, they got sick of the big city and moved back home. More importantly, they have this incredibly huge dog: </p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_12//f5/ff/f5ff7b80001955b77d6fcc2b5edb7316.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_12//07/30/07305936c214b6b048e777a21866be73.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_12//5d/0f/5d0f145c0fb897c8888e0b0f56bbd412.jpg" /><br />
<br />
His name is Gandalf, and he is the size or a small horse!</p>
<p>For once I have some pictures!<br />
<br />
For the first time, our eldest daughter Barbara helped us <glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvest</glossary> :) Everything is going well, we have good volume, nice acidities and a pronounced, fruity flavor in the juices.</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Sep_18//17/9d/179d90d783a5506a316c95affd67e968.jpg" /></p>
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<p>We are blessed by 2015!<br />
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After a hot and sunny spring, we had a very hot and dry summer that peaked in July and August. By late August we were worrying about the dryness of the grapes, but received a ton of rain just at the right time: it plumped up the grapes and gave the vines the little push they needed to finish their job.<br />
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And the result was there with quality juices!<br />
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In Saint Aignan, a parcel we usually <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> over three days, took us seven! "La Sauvignonne" has finished its <glossary title="236">carbonic maceration</glossary> and was <glossary title="827">pressed</glossary> last week. The "Ça C'est Bon!" <glossary title="478">Gamay</glossary> has also been <glossary title="827">pressed</glossary> and the <glossary title="216">Cabernet</glossary> for "On Est Su'l Sable<em>"</em> will be pressed next week. The three wines will then continue their <glossary title="87">alcoholic fermentation</glossary> in <glossary title="445">fiberglass</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1140">tanks</glossary><span>.</span></span></span><br />
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In <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="931">Savigny en Véron</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> the only thing we still need to <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> is <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1143"><em>Les Picasses</em></glossary><span>,</span></span></span> but the grapes are juicy and full of sugar. We have <glossary title="185">bottled</glossary> our first "Picasses", the 2013, but we will leave it to <glossary title="74">age</glossary> and evolve in our <glossary title="254">cellars</glossary> two to three more years before releasing it. The 2014 is still on its <glossary title="590">lees</glossary> in<span class="zalup"><span> <glossary title="445">fiberglass</glossary><span>.</span></span></span><br />
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And a first for us this year: an attempt to make a<span class="zalup"><span> <glossary term="Pétillant Naturel" title="778">pétillant naturel</glossary><span>!</span></span></span></p>
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<p>When Laurent Lebled found himself unemployed after 30+ years working as a wood merchant, wine wasn't exactly the first thing on his mind. The 2008 recession had hit hard, and without any other prospects in the wood industry, it looked like he was flat out of luck. Fortunately, two childhood friends would help him find a new path in a direction he never would have expected.</p>
<p>Those two friends are Sébastien Bobinet and Patrick Corbineau. Sébastien quit his job in 2003 after inheriting two <glossary title="523">hectares</glossary><glossary title="523"> </glossary>of vines from his grandfather. Patrick's story is quite similar: quitting his job at the <glossary title="288">Chinon</glossary><glossary title="288"> </glossary>powerplant after inheriting vines from his grandfather. Despite Lebled not coming from a wine family, owning no vineyards and having never spent a day working in vines or a <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="254">cellar</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> Sébastien insisted that becoming a <glossary title="1089">vigneron</glossary><glossary title="1089"> </glossary>would be a good fit for him. Laurent was reticent, but Sébastien promised he would show him how to do everything. It seemed like a long-shot, but Laurent took the plunge by assisting Bobinet through the 2009 <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1109">vintage</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> </p>
<p>2010 was the first <glossary title="1109">vintage</glossary> of <em>A la Vôtre</em>, a year when Sébastien Bobinet and Patrick Corbineau generously showed Laurent the ins and outs of <glossary title="1103">viticulture</glossary> and winemaking. Laurent now fully helms the operation, producing <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="913">sulfur-free</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary title="236">carbonically macerated</glossary> whites and reds.</p>
<p>The first step to founding the <glossary title="427">estate</glossary> came in finding some vines and a <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="254">cellar</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Laurent had always been a fan of the <strong><glossary title="1036">Touraine</glossary> <glossary title="108">AOC</glossary></strong>, and through friends was able to find 1.7 <glossary title="523">hectares</glossary><glossary title="523"> </glossary>of vines and a <glossary title="254">cellar</glossary> to rent in the commune of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="890">Saint-Aignan</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Shortly after the contract for the vines was signed, the proprietor of the <glossary title="254">cellar</glossary> backed out, forcing Laurent to improvise. On very short notice, he was able to find a <glossary title="264">chai</glossary><glossary title="264"> </glossary>in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="931">Savigny-en-Véron</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> over an hour away from the vines in <span class="zalup"><span> <glossary title="890">Saint-Aignan</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Though far from ideal, Laurent moved things forward by renting an additional 0.5 <glossary title="523">hectares</glossary><glossary title="523"> </glossary>of <glossary title="216">Cabernet Franc</glossary> on <glossary title="909">sandy</glossary> soils right by his newly acquired <glossary title="254">cellar</glossary> and contined to rent the <glossary title="890">Saint-Aignan</glossary> land.</p>
<p>In 2019, Laurent was able to purchase 10 <glossary title="523">hectares</glossary> of vines and a <glossary title="254">cellar</glossary> from a retiring <glossary title="1089">vigneron</glossary> in the same proximity as the <glossary title="890">Saint-Aignan</glossary><glossary title="890"> </glossary>vines he'd been cultivating. He and his wife Sonya now live in Châtillon-sur-Cher, a 12 minute drive to his vineyards. The vines are 30 to 60 years old and the break down as such: 3.32 <glossary title="523">hectares</glossary> of<strong> <glossary title="927">Sauvignon Blanc</glossary></strong>, 1.60HA of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="478">Gamay</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> 0.84HA of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="805">Pinot Noir</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> 0.35HA of <glossary title="648">Menu Pineau</glossary> and 1.85HA of <strong><glossary title="216">Cabernet Franc</glossary></strong> (the remainder is farmed and <glossary title="1104">vinified</glossary> by his daughter Barbara). Despite being an hour drive, he also decided to keep his <glossary title="760">parcel</glossary> of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1143">Picasses</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> The <glossary title="363">cuvées</glossary> will keep the same names but the <glossary title="1104">vinifications</glossary> have evolved slightly with the new<span class="zalup"><span> <glossary title="254">cellar</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> You can read about the <glossary title="1104">vinification</glossary> details by clicking on each wine below.</p>
Article
producer visit12.07.2019
This visit with Laurent Lebed took place in October, 2014
<p><strong><em>This visit with Laurent Lebed took place in October, 2014.</em></strong></p>
<p><strong><em>Words and photos by Jules Dressner.</em></strong></p>
<p>Did you guys know we like wine from the <strong><glossary title="602">Loire</glossary></strong>? Did you know that we work with six producers from <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1036">Touraine</glossary><span>?</span></span></span> Well make it seven!<br />
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I met up with Laurent Lebled in the center square of<span class="zalup"><span> <glossary title="890">Saint-Aignan</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> just a five minute drive from Clos Roche Blanche. From there, it was a quick drive to to a good portion of the land he rents.<br />
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Laurent currently rents land from three separate owners. Because he lives too far away, for the time being the <glossary title="890">Saint-Aignan</glossary> owner does all of the <glossary title="1103">viticultural</glossary><glossary title="1103"> </glossary>work here. Laurent makes his specific requests (working the soil, <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1129">yields</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> etc...), then comes with his team to <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="521">harvest</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> And because he <glossary title="1104">vinifies</glossary><glossary title="1104"> </glossary>over an hour away (more on this later), he then shuttles the grapes in a refrigerated truck. <br />
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Originally from <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="919">Saumur</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> Laurent planned to start his estate in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1036">Touraine</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> After some diligent research, he was able to secure rented vines and a<span class="zalup"><span> <glossary title="254">cellar</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> but the guy with the <glossary title="254">cellar</glossary> dropped the ball at the last second. Laurent had to improvise and, as you will see, found himself forced to spread himself all over the place. He currently vinifies over an hour away in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="931">Savigny en Véron</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> but is confident he will eventually relocate to <glossary title="890">Saint-Aignan</glossary> (<strong>ed note:</strong> this finally happened in 2019) <span class="zalup"><span><span>.</span><glossary title="890"> </glossary>L</span></span>aurent has been working the same 1.7 <glossary title="523">hectares</glossary><glossary title="523"> </glossary>here since he started in 2010. <br />
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0.8 <glossary title="523">hectares</glossary><glossary title="523"> </glossary>consist of <glossary title="">Sauvignon </glossary>planted in 1962 on <glossary title="301">clay</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="596">limestone</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> The <glossary title="478">Gamay</glossary><glossary title="478"> </glossary>is <glossary title="941">massale </glossary>from vines planted in 1950 and 1970 in rockier <glossary title="991">subsoils</glossary> which give the wine a more <glossary title="990">structured</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="71">acidity</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> The <glossary title="216">Cabernet Franc</glossary> is on similar soil to the <glossary title="478">Gamay</glossary><glossary title="478"> </glossary>and planted in the 1960's and 1970's. <br />
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Laurent was born and raised in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="919">Saumur</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Before making wine, he was a successful wood merchant for 30 years. Specializing in chestnut trees, he sourced woods from Spain, Portugal and Italy. But by 2008, the recession hit hard and Laurent had to shut up shop.<br />
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<em>"I had never done anything else. But it was clearly the end of an era for this type of work. I had no idea what I was going to do, and never thought about making wine. Not even for a second." </em><br />
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It was his childhood friend Sébastien Bobinet, who himself gave up a first career to tend his grandfather's two <glossary title="523">hectares</glossary> of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="216">Cabernet Franc</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> who proposed that Laurent follow a similar path. After some rigorous research to find land and a cellar, <em>A la Vôtre</em>'s first <glossary title="1109">vintage</glossary><glossary title="1109"> </glossary>was in 2010.<br />
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<em>"I just jumped right into it by learning in the vines. Sébastien helped me through the entire process in 2010, from </em><glossary title="834"><em>pruning</em></glossary><em> to </em><glossary title="1104"><em>vinification</em></glossary><em>. Combined with the additional help of Patrick Corbineau, this gave me the confidence to continue. It's a beautiful second chance. It's an incredible feeling to see something through from beginning to end." </em><br />
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We then drove an hour to <glossary title="288">Chinon</glossary><glossary title="288"> </glossary>country, where Laurent was able to find the <glossary title="264">chai </glossary>where he <glossary title="1104">vinifies</glossary><glossary title="1104"> </glossary>and <glossary title="74">ages</glossary> the wine. Because of its proximity to nice vineyards, he couldn't resist renting some land here as well. This he works 100% from beginning to end. The first <glossary title="1133">plot</glossary> we visited was 0.49 <glossary title="523">hectares</glossary> of <glossary title="216">Cabernet Franc</glossary><glossary title="216"> </glossary>planted on <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="909">pure sand</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> </p>
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This <glossary title="1133">plot</glossary> used to be worked <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="331">conventionally</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> and after four years of <glossary title="332">conversion</glossary> Laurent is finally able to easily work the grass and soils.<br />
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<em>"No one wanted this vineyard because the rows are all different (in length) and you can't use machines here."</em><br />
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The grapes here are blended with the <glossary title="216">Cabernet</glossary><glossary title="216"> </glossary>from <glossary title="890">Saint-Aignan</glossary> to make the "On Est Su l' Sable" <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="363">cuvée</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> <br />
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Both sites are <glossary title="1104">vinified</glossary> separately. I was surprised to learn that a parcel this far out could still be classified as <glossary title="1036">Touraine</glossary> <glossary title="108">AOC</glossary><glossary title="1036"> </glossary>wine.<br />
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<em>"It can! The first vintage we made it a </em><glossary term="Touraine" title="1036"><em>Touraine</em></glossary><em><glossary title="1036"> </glossary>wine, but have stuck to </em><glossary title="1092"><em>Vin de France</em></glossary><em> since then." </em><br />
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A lot of replacements have been necessary, and Laurent planted many in 2012. His neighbors also replanted a bunch at the exact same time, and the difference is shocking. Here's Laurent's:</p>
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And here are his neighbor's:</p>
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<em>"I have no idea how that's even possible."</em><br />
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Me neither.</p>
<p>As we drove off, I couldn't help but feel I'd been to this vineyard before. It all felt eerily familiar...<br />
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We then drove to Laurent's 0.6 <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary> in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1143"><em>Les Picasses</em></glossary><span>,</span></span></span> the famed <glossary term="Lieu-Dit" title="594">lieu-dit</glossary><glossary title="594"> </glossary>where Olga Raffault (amongst many others) produce some of their most expressive wines. In fact, it turns out that Laurent's <glossary title="760">parcel</glossary> is direct neighbors Olga Raffault's <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="281">Chenin Blanc</glossary><span>!</span></span></span> </p>
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This <glossary title="760">parcel</glossary> was also worked <glossary term="Conventional Farming" title="331">conventionally </glossary>prior to Laurent's rental, and in still in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="332">conversion</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> The grapes were looking nice, and Laurent believed he'd <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> a few days later. <br />
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From <em><strong><glossary title="1143"><em>Les Picasses</em></glossary></strong></em>, we drove to Laurent's <glossary title="1104">vinification </glossary><glossary term="Chai" title="264">chai</glossary>, which just so happens to be in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="931">Savigny-en-Véron</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> the village where Olga Rafault is based. It is literally three doors down from the Raffault house! Neighbors in the vines and in the village!<br />
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We naturally popped in to say hi. Eric and Sylvie had no idea I'd be visiting, and were just returning from picking a parcel in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1143"><em>Les Picasses</em></glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Though Eric was busy getting the grapes into <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1140">tank</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> Sylvie graciously offered us a few drinks of older <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1109">vintages</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> </p>
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<p>As we kept chatting, the fact that they were neighbors in <glossary title="1143"><em>Les Picasses</em></glossary> came up. And from there, it was confirmed that the <glossary title="760">parcel</glossary> that the Raffault produce "Les Barnabés" with is RIGHT NEXT to Laurent's <glossary title="909">sandy</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="760">parcel</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> That's why it felt so familiar! So to recap, Laurent Lebled and the Olga Raffault are neighbors EVERYWHERE. What are the odds? <br />
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As we left for the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="264">chai</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> Laurent was really happy that I introduced him to Eric and Sylvie.<br />
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<em>"This is the first time I'm meeting a colleague and neighbor since I started. Sometimes I feel all alone out here. It's good to know there are nice people just next door!" </em><br />
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In the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="264">chai</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> Laurent showed me his <glossary term="Vinification" title="1104">vinification</glossary><glossary title="1104"> </glossary>process. During <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="441">fermentation</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> he keeps a heater on because it gets very cold in there. He tries keeping it around 20˚. <br />
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The main <glossary term="Vinification" title="1104">vinifications</glossary><glossary title="1104"> </glossary>happen in <glossary title="325">concrete</glossary> <glossary title="1140">tanks</glossary> with wood planks on the bottom. A full <glossary title="236">carbonic maceration</glossary> takes place for 30 days (an average, "normal" <glossary title="236">carbonic maceration</glossary> goes from 10-12 days). Here are the whole <glossary title="1138">clusters</glossary> in tank:</p>
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Once the <glossary term="Fermentation" title="441">fermentation</glossary><glossary title="441"> </glossary>takes place, the grapes are <glossary title="827">pressed</glossary> and <glossary term="Racking/Soutirage" title="843">racked</glossary><glossary title="843"> </glossary>to <glossary title="445">fiberglass</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1140">tanks</glossary><span>:</span></span></span></p>
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<p>The wines stay on their <glossary term="Lees" title="590">lees</glossary><glossary title="590"> </glossary>until bottling. <br />
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To taste the older <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintages</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> we THEN had to drive to Laurent's storage <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="254">cellar</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> an old <glossary title="1053">tuffeau</glossary> <glossary title="251">cave</glossary> in a neighboring village. </p>
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Man this is a lot of bouncing around! We did a vertical all the way back to 2010. Each <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1109">vintage</glossary><span>-</span></span></span> and this is not a bad thing- was radically different.<br />
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<em>"I have no shame admitting that I am completely new to this and learning as I go. Every </em><glossary term="Vintage" title="1109"><em>vintage</em></glossary><em><glossary title="1109"> </glossary>has proven to be a completely unique experience, both in the work and in the flavors of the wines." </em><br />
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I found it particularly interesting how the wines are able to keep a more <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="883">rustic</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary term="Terroir" title="1026">terroir</glossary><glossary title="1026"> </glossary>driven quality than most pure <span class="zalup"><span><span>-</span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="236">carbo vinifications</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></span></span> Laurent believes this is due to the extended period of time he lets the <glossary term="Intra-Cellular Fermentation" title="546">intra-cellular fermentation</glossary> occur. <br />
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We THEN drove to <glossary term="Saumur" title="919">Saumur</glossary><glossary title="919"> </glossary>to eat at the excellent Bistro des Jean, a tiny spot doing amazing French bistro fare. Highly recommended. The two owners are originally from <glossary term="Saumur" title="919">Saumur</glossary><glossary title="919"> </glossary>but had a successful place in Paris for years. Eventually, they got sick of the big city and moved back home. More importantly, they have this incredibly huge dog: </p>
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His name is Gandalf, and he is the size or a small horse!</p>
<p>For once I have some pictures!<br />
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For the first time, our eldest daughter Barbara helped us <glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvest</glossary> :) Everything is going well, we have good volume, nice acidities and a pronounced, fruity flavor in the juices.</p>
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<p>We are blessed by 2015!<br />
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After a hot and sunny spring, we had a very hot and dry summer that peaked in July and August. By late August we were worrying about the dryness of the grapes, but received a ton of rain just at the right time: it plumped up the grapes and gave the vines the little push they needed to finish their job.<br />
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And the result was there with quality juices!<br />
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In Saint Aignan, a parcel we usually <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> over three days, took us seven! "La Sauvignonne" has finished its <glossary title="236">carbonic maceration</glossary> and was <glossary title="827">pressed</glossary> last week. The "Ça C'est Bon!" <glossary title="478">Gamay</glossary> has also been <glossary title="827">pressed</glossary> and the <glossary title="216">Cabernet</glossary> for "On Est Su'l Sable<em>"</em> will be pressed next week. The three wines will then continue their <glossary title="87">alcoholic fermentation</glossary> in <glossary title="445">fiberglass</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1140">tanks</glossary><span>.</span></span></span><br />
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In <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="931">Savigny en Véron</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> the only thing we still need to <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> is <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1143"><em>Les Picasses</em></glossary><span>,</span></span></span> but the grapes are juicy and full of sugar. We have <glossary title="185">bottled</glossary> our first "Picasses", the 2013, but we will leave it to <glossary title="74">age</glossary> and evolve in our <glossary title="254">cellars</glossary> two to three more years before releasing it. The 2014 is still on its <glossary title="590">lees</glossary> in<span class="zalup"><span> <glossary title="445">fiberglass</glossary><span>.</span></span></span><br />
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And a first for us this year: an attempt to make a<span class="zalup"><span> <glossary term="Pétillant Naturel" title="778">pétillant naturel</glossary><span>!</span></span></span></p>
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