producer profile
05.06.2019
Fabbrica di San Martino Producer Profile
<p>Founded in 1735,<strong> </strong>Fabbrica di San Martino is located on the outskirts of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="605">Lucca</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> the <glossary title="1055">Tuscan</glossary> city famed for its medieval and Renaissance architecture. While technically within the city limits, the 20<strong> <glossary title="523">hectare</glossary></strong> property is completely surrounded by woods, effectively creating a unique site rich in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1162">bio-diversity</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Cattle, vegetables, fruits (particularly lemons), olives and vines co-exist together in harmony, all farmed <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="160">biodynamically</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p>For over 20 years, Giuseppe Ferrua has been running the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="434">Fabbrica</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> While the role suits him well, Giuseppe does not come from an <glossary title="78">agricultural</glossary> background: Italian but born in Colombia, he moved to <glossary title="793">Piemonte</glossary> when he was seven. As a young man, he found himself traveling the world in search of adventure and opportunity. This would eventually lead Giuseppe to own many respected restaurants, first in South America, then in Italy. Shortly after setting up shop in <span class="zalup"><span> <glossary title="605">Lucca</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> he fell in love with a regular, a lovely woman named Giovanna, and the two married. Giovanna had grown up in and recently inherited the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="434">Fabbrica</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> and Giuseppe moved in soon thereafter. <br />
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Vines have always existed on the farm, and Giuseppe instantly fell in love with the <glossary title="446">field blend</glossary> produced from the single <glossary title="760">parcel</glossary> in front of the house. So much so that he started selling it as his restaurant's house wine! <br />
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By the early 90's, Giuseppe decided to sell his restaurant to focus on running the farm. With no formal training in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="78">agriculture</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> he learned hands-on from the <glossary title="329">contadinos</glossary> that Giovanna's family had hired to work the land. In doing so, he discovered that the farm had always been worked without <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="279">chemicals</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> prompting his decision to immediately request <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="260">organic certification</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> After years of working this way, an interest in <glossary title="882">Rudolph's Steiner</glossary>'s philosophy made Giuseppe realize that the <glossary title="434">Fabbrica's</glossary> isolated eco-system lent itself to its own unique equilibrium of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1162">bio-diversity</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> The shift to <glossary title="160">biodymanic</glossary> farming followed soon after. <br />
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Today, five wines are produced from three <strong><glossary title="523">hectares</glossary></strong> of vines. From the original <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="760">parcel</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> a <glossary title="446">field-blend</glossary> of 15 <glossary title="1055">Tuscan</glossary> varieties produces the "Arcipressi", a light, easy drinking <glossary title="986">stainless steel</glossary> wine with short skin <glossary title="610">maceration</glossary> meant to be drunk young. A <glossary title="871">rosato</glossary> called "Rosaspina" is also occasionally produced from this vineyard. In 1999, Giuseppe planted <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="911">Sangiovese</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary title="320">Colorino</glossary> and <glossary title="229">Canaiolo</glossary> in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="941">selection massale</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> and with this he produces the <glossary title="427">estate's</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="874">Rosso</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> a wine <glossary title="74">aged</glossary> in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="142">barrels</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> In excellent <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1109">vintages</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> he will release a <glossary title="617">magnum</glossary> only <glossary title="852">riserva</glossary> called "Rubino" from these vines. A small amount of white is also produced from a more recently planted <glossary title="760">parcel</glossary> of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1081">Vermentino</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary title="623">Malvasia</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1043">Trebbiano</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> </p>
Article
interview
05.06.2019
An Interview with Giuseppe Ferrua from 2014
<p><em>This interview with Giuseppe Ferrua took place at <strong><glossary title="568">L'Herbe Rouge</glossary></strong></em><em> in February, 2014.</em></p>
<p><strong>Tell us about Fabbrica di San Martino.</strong><br />
<br />
<strong>Fabbrica </strong>di San Martino is a farm extremely close to the town of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="605">Lucca</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> The property itself is quite ancient, dating back to 1735. In total there are 20 <glossary title="523">hectares</glossary> of land, which produce wine and oil, as well as cows for meat. Everything is worked <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="160">biodynamically</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> <br />
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I've been living there for 20 years, and was lucky to find the land in a very pure state. Everything had always been worked <glossary title="746">organically</glossary> by the farmers who took care of the property, though they probably had no idea there was any other way to work! This meant I could be <glossary title="260">certified</glossary> from day one! <br />
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We work with very old grapes that are traditional of <glossary title="605">Lucca</glossary> and its <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1026">terroir</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Many are lesser known, such as <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="88">Aleatico</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="624">Malvasia Nera</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary title="229">Canaiolo</glossary> or <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="295">Ciliegiolo</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> For centuries, the wines from San Martino were sold to locals and nearby restaurants. These were everyday wines for the table. But the farm has long been known as a great place to make wine (mostly due to it being an isolated <glossary title="305">clos</glossary>) since the medieval ages. My goal is to continue the tradition of the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="434">Fabbrica</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> <br />
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<strong>How did you end up at the there?</strong><br />
<br />
Before committing myself to the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="434">Fabbrica</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> I was a restauranteur for 22 years. It was my first true passion, and my love for quality ingredients is what originally sparked my interest in good wine. Food brought me to wine. <br />
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<strong>What kind of restaurants were you running?</strong><br />
<br />
I've had many experiences over the years. I worked in Spain and all over Italy, but my last restaurant was a tratorria in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="605">Lucca</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> It was very popular, and the goal was always to prepare simple, local food for my patrons. I also gained a reputation for selling quality wine to my customers, and many would come because of the wine list, which was also very locally focused. <br />
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<strong>This is also where you met your wife, right? </strong><br />
<br />
Yes, it's where I "found" my wife! And this is how I ended up in the <glossary title="434">Fabbrica</glossary> in the first place. She is the owner of San Martino, and the third generation of her family to live there. <br />
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When I first moved in, I was still running the restaurant. There was still a team of old-school <glossary title="329">contadini</glossary> taking care of the land at the time, and I started selling the farm's oil and wine in my restaurant, which were of exceptional quality. Out of curiosity, I started helping the old farmers out, which I very much enjoyed. <br />
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As time went by, the team, who was already old, reached the age of retirement. It was at this point that I decided to sell the restaurant and commit myself to the property full time. <br />
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<strong>At this point, were you already familiar with organic and biodynamic agriculture? </strong><br />
<br />
I've always been a fan of <glossary title="746">organic</glossary> ingredients. Food that has been un-manipulated simply has more character, more content. It has its own energy and power. It simply tastes better.<br />
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For <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="160">biodynamics</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> this came from a realization that <glossary title="746">organic </glossary> <glossary title="78">agriculture</glossary> wasn't enough. <glossary title="746">Organic</glossary> <glossary title="78">agriculture</glossary> is great in that it forbids <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="279">chemicals</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> but it doesn't necessarily try to restore a natural equilibrium to the land. <br />
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<strong>When we visited, you mentioned an epiphany that the Fabbrica was a perfect environment to work biodynamically. Can you elaborate?</strong><br />
<br />
<strong>Fabbrica </strong>di San Martino has a lot going for it. It's <glossary title="430">exposed</glossary> full south. The olive trees and vines are completely surrounded by forest, and this is also great for my cows, who have a lot of room to live in. The land has never been exposed to any type of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="279">chemicals</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> and save the pollution in the air, it is a very pure place. <br />
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I discovered <glossary title="160">biodynamics</glossary> when I met Alex Podolinsky at a conference; he gave me some basic instructions to get me started. From the first year, I started to see changes. The color of the soil became darker. The <glossary title="301">clay</glossary> stopped sticking on our boots after rainfall. It was clear to me that they were even fuller of life than before. <br />
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<strong>What are the wines produced at the moment? </strong><br />
<br />
The wine that I now <glossary title="185">bottle</glossary> as "Arcipressi" used to be the house wine for my restaurant. We would also sell some to locals, but the wine was not <glossary title="185">bottled</glossary> or <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="573">labelled</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> This comes from a vineyard that I love, from vines that are over 60 years old. "Arcipressi" is a fresh wine made with many varieties, all from the same <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="760">parcel</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> The guys before me always made this wine to drink young, and I continue this practice. The best compliment I ever got for this wine was an old farmer jumping up in excitement and telling me: <em>"This is good, just like 50 years ago!" </em><br />
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Then, from a younger vineyard (12 years old), I produce a <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="911">Sangiovese</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> This is a more "<glossary title="1055">Tuscan</glossary>" style, and <glossary title="74">aged</glossary> three years in the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="254">cellar</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> I also make a bit of "Arcipressi Bianco"<em> </em>from that same <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="760">parcel</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> and a Fabbrica di San Martino <glossary title="158">Bianco</glossary> made in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1126">wood</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> <br />
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<strong>What's your stance on "natural win<span class="zalup"><span>e<glossary title="708">"</glossary><span>?</span></span></span></strong><br />
<br />
The problem is that too many producers are narcissists. Everything is so self-referential. I think people should care more about doing what they feel is right, and letting the work speak for itself. If you need to make a big deal about how you work so much better than everyone else, I consider this a sign of insecurity. <br />
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<strong>What do you like to drink? </strong><br />
<br />
I like wines that are made simply, that are un-manipulated. To this day I get surprised just how pure the expression of grapes can be, and it's a lot of fun.</p>
Article
producer visit
24.07.2019
This visit to Fabbrica di San Martino took place in May, 2013
<p><strong><em>This visit to<font color="#7b143e"> Fabbrica</font> di San Martino took place in May, 2013.</em></strong></p>
<p><strong><em>Words by Jules Dressner, photos by Maya Pedersen.</em></strong></p>
<p>If you follow the long, twisty road through the uphill backroads of <glossary title="605">Lucca's</glossary> city limits, you'll eventually come across a discrete sign pointing you in the direction of Fabbrica di San Martino. The 20 <glossary title="523">hectare</glossary> property dates back to 1735, and as you can see from this picture of me striking a philosophical pose, the house overlooks <glossary title="605">Lucca</glossary> and the area's surrounding mountains. </p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//c7/de/c7deaaff1501683aa8cb4b50e5f3669b.jpg" /><br />
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We arrived in the late afternoon, but still had enough sunlight to spend some quality time outdoors. While waiting for Giuseppe, we casually strolled around the outsides of the house. </p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//f2/18/f218e765992051f6375a17baf6526641.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//89/3c/893cac2592961cdd58e56dd80de2082a.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//22/36/223625a269e928c4d12c5add7ba96af4.jpg" /></p>
<p>After a short wait, we were joined by none other than Giuseppe Ferrua! </p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//e4/28/e428d31b81d0d48569b9906a0cbeb031.jpg" /><br />
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That's his son next to him. Before visiting the vines, we got a quick tour some of the house. </p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//0e/f0/0ef0fa08b7ac8604492ef3afb4151ba6.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//53/67/5367303fc1319f3cf36edff6cbda26f1.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//e3/e2/e3e21cae0d425ebb269f213f436574a1.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//d6/70/d6704885c219d4f97aac5efebeec6aa3.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//ce/f0/cef0b279248a56404d349e395869d098.jpg" /></p>
<p>As you can see, it is quite nice in there. As a stupid aside, I kept feeling like I was in an episode of MTV Cribs. As an aside to the aside, visiting the San Martino house was a much less materialistic experience.<br />
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We then set off to the vines, which are just outside of the house. Of the property's 20 <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="523">ha</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> they only represent 2.2<font color="#7b143e"><strong> <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary></strong></font> for a total of 1200 plants. We started at the <glossary title="434">Fabbrica's</glossary> original vineyard.</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//e6/f4/e6f4b9bd49b5afcecbef5071fc579fcc.jpg" /><br />
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The wine produced from this <glossary title="760">parcel</glossary> inspired Giuseppe to give up his restaurants to work at the farm full time. <br />
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<em>"These vines are a treasure. They needed to be maintained."</em><br />
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15 <glossary title="1055">Tuscan</glossary> <glossary title="1071">varietals</glossary> are <glossary title="309">co-planted</glossary> here and produce the "Arcipressi" <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Cuvée" title="363">cuvée</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Everything is older <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="941">massale</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> and the vines have always been <glossary title="500">grafted</glossary> into place.</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//fb/ee/fbee1d400d46e623ebb14f14a7c28850.jpg" /></p>
<p>I know you should never judge a book by its cover (the wine is delicious, so there!), but there's something about this label that I really, really love.</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//5b/6f/5b6fd04d1fe7fcff770e063f1b6e97a0.jpg" /></p>
<p>The whole vineyard is <glossary title="430">exposed</glossary> southeast to southwest, so the sun does an east to west half-circle over the vines. We got there towards the end of the day, and Maya's pictures show how the sun sets to the right side of the vineyard. </p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//83/c1/83c11eaf3df391dda68521a702b9121a.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//84/bb/84bbb374cc1aec3b3001dc69e7bcaf28.jpg" /><br />
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Giuseppe explained how in this hot region, this <glossary title="430">exposition</glossary> is much more beneficial to the vines than if they were full south, keeping alcohol down and <glossary title="71">acidity</glossary>/<glossary title="662">minerality</glossary> up.<br />
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The soils here are composed of <glossary title="301">clay</glossary> and stone, but the amount and density of stone rock <em>"varies greatly"</em>.<br />
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See that olive tree in the middle of the picture below?</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//1d/ff/1dfffbde3e7c8d74d16b150488a5ebca.jpg" /></p>
<p>It's 500 years old.</p>
<p><br />
Moving on. Below the original "Arcipressi" <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="760">parcel</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> Giuseppe decided to plant <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="911">Sangiovese</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary title="320">Colorino</glossary> and <glossary title="229">Canaiolo</glossary> in 1999.</p>
<p> <img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//8d/12/8d12173f9f1e0ac66b5322918aebb65b.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//00/7b/007b5c5a31fa6204e252a0169417e51d.jpg" /><br />
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The "Fabbrica Rosso" comes from here. <br />
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As far as day to to day maintenance, Giuseppe never <glossary title="810">plows</glossary> the vineyards, and only uses plant <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="323">compost</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> <glossary title="826">Biodynamic</glossary> tea preparations are also a big part of the vineyard work. <br />
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<em>"We never enter with tractors, we </em><glossary title="834"><em>prune</em></glossary><em> by hand, we mulch and make </em><glossary title="323"><em>compost</em></glossary><em> outside." </em><br />
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After a good amount of time in the vines, we got to visit the cows!</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//76/eb/76eb1c66a8299a0c870e9cf74df661a4.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//a3/36/a3362faddaec186e0c15ca29bc60464b.jpg" /></p>
<p>Look at that little brown baby one! <br />
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<em>"The cows have 10<font color="#7b143e"><strong> <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectares</glossary></strong></font> of forest to live in. They are important, because they regulate the land. They bring more insects, birds and create incredible </em><glossary title="1162"><em>biodiversity</em></glossary><em>."</em><br />
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Sorry vegetarians: these guys are destined to become meat. In fact, Giuseppe is about to to sell two of them to <a href="http://louisdressner.com/producers/foradori/" target="notSet">Elisabetta Foradori</a>!<br />
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No visit to any <glossary title="427">estate</glossary> would be complete without a trip to the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="233">cantina</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> which is where we headed next. </p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//61/62/6162261438c885da9de164bde944e438.jpg" /></p>
<p>We started with the 2012 <glossary title="">Fabbrica</glossary> Bianco, a <glossary title="308">co-ferment</glossary> of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1081">Vermentino</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary title="623">Malvasia</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1043">Trebbiano</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> The wine is made in large <glossary title="731">oak</glossary> <glossary title="242">casks</glossary> with no <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1018">temperature control</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> It will be <glossary title="185">bottled</glossary> next summer, and sold next year. We also sipped on some 2012 "Arcipressi", which was juicy and delicious. A sample of the 2012 <glossary title="911">Sangiovese</glossary> that will ultimately end up in the<font color="#7b143e"><strong> "</strong></font>Fabbrica Rosso" was <glossary title="847">reduced</glossary> and not showing well, but Giuseppe pointed out that this is an extremely transitional point in the year (we were there in late April), and that the unfinished wines aren't always showing best. <br />
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During our <glossary title="254">cellar</glossary> tasting, we got to meet Ortalina.</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//c0/db/c0dbbe823a47bf84d1cbedf2aa8a1cd6.jpg" /></p>
<p>Ortalina is 20 years old! That's old! Her name loosely translates to "garden girl"; Giuseppe found her on the property two decades ago in the <glossary title="434">Fabbrica's</glossary> fields. She grew attached to the family and never left, but has never entered the house and in the 20 years she's been there, they've never fed her once! <br />
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Night time was upon on, so we went back to the house to have a very, very good home cooked meal with Giuseppe, Giovanna and two of their children. </p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//b4/0c/b40cefeedd694153ded31e36a0fa5c06.jpg" /></p>
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<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//d5/a6/d5a654ef42a1b428c932e3c8f57679c9.jpg" /><br />
<br />
I had thirds of lasagna.</p>
Article
harvest report
09.12.2021
2021 Harvest Report from Giuseppe Ferrua
<p>According to meteorologists, summer 2021 has been the hottest of the last 200 years, so that's at least extraordinary in a way. It’s been almost 30 years of <glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvests</glossary> for me and looking back at the past I can clearly see the changes going on. We used to have hot summers, especially in the month of July, with the Azores high on the Mediterranean Sea giving a beautiful golden and dry month. In the last years though, by July we already have had 2/3 months of hot, dry climate, with high night temperatures, around 26-28 Celsius, reducing the plants' capacity to grow and especially ripen the grapes. Nowadays the Azores high is higher in Northern Europe, so that Italy’s climate is closest to that of North Africa’s. <glossary term="Harvest" title="521">Harvesting</glossary> perfectly ripe grapes has become a work of precision, so we value the importance of good <glossary term="PH" title="783">PH</glossary> and <glossary term="Acidity" title="71">acidity</glossary> levels more than the level of sugar. Wines with nice <glossary term="Acidity" title="71">acidities</glossary> are healthier and we can also reduce the level of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Sulfites" title="993">sulfites</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p>Many years ago, in mid-August yearly rains helped refresh the soils so that the ripening of the grapes was more gradual and slower. In late August 2021, a very brief rain shower helped us, moreover during this time night temperatures began to decrease, helping the plants to get some rest from the day's heat. Vines started to work again, slowing the process of ripening. In late August the grapes were then perfect, healthy, with the right <glossary term="Acidity" title="71">acidity</glossary> and enough sugar, so we decided to begin with the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvest</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p>In the <glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary> however, the grapes were ‘lighter’ so we ended with a volume of production 20-30% lower compared to recent <span class="zalup"><span> <glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvests</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> The quality is excellent, with perfect <glossary term="Fermentation" title="441">fermentations</glossary> and no surprises. Almost two months from the end of the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Fermentation" title="441">fermentations</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> the wines in <glossary term="Vat/Tank" title="1140">tank</glossary> are already balanced with beautiful varietal expressions, almost ready. <glossary term="Lees" title="590">Lees</glossary> were abundant, highlighting the substance of the grapes, so for sure wines that will be capable of aging well giving their best during this process.</p>
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Article
harvest report
22.01.2020
2020 Harvest Report from Giuseppe Ferrua
<p><u><strong>January 21st, 2021:</strong></u></p>
<p>As has been common in recent <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvests</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> 2020 has been a very warm one. Nevertheless, the striking feature of 2020 was the light: such incredible, long, limpid, bright days we had during the early spring lockdown in Italy. We don't know the reasons behind this: less pollution in the air, less cars in the streets, anyway we will never forget these beautiful, silent and peaceful days working in our sunny countryside. Everything stood still, in an almost unreal atmosphere, where nature was the only Master. Wild animals, hedgehogs, roe deers, and even a wolf came nearby our house: a Natural Showdown!</p>
<p>The 2020 <glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvest</glossary> has also been, as always, a very special moment, with an almost identical team of young, enthusiastic people coming to join and help us. They have become friends at this point, I feel like they know what their work here means: looking at our Fabbrica di San Martino as a small ideal of work and life, where each plays its role, contributing to define our identity every year more and more.</p>
<p>In the last years it has become important to bring grapes with good <glossary term="Acidity" title="71">acidity</glossary> and a low <glossary term="PH" title="783">PH</glossary> to the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> much more important then the sugar levels. It seems that in order to get the best possible <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Maturation" title="639">maturation</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> health and freshness of the grapes is the most relevant factor. To me, the times when ripeness equaled heat are over. It’s quite the opposite in fact: now the heat is the worst enemy of plants and grapes.</p>
<p>We were blessed on the 10th of August to get a very nice and fresh rainstorm, allowing the vines to restart growing. In the end, the grapes were good in both quality and quantity, healthy with a very nice <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Acidity" title="71">acidity</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> <glossary term="Fermentation" title="441">Fermentations</glossary> perfectly unfolded and I hope that so it will continue for the next <glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintages</glossary> to come. Tasting the wines in the <glossary term="Cellar" title="254">cellar</glossary> (which are less than two months) old, they are showing their fruity and extroverted side. Density and complexity are there, making the wait for complexity even more exciting.</p>
<p>2020 seems to be a very nice <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintage</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> at least for the wines :)</p>
<p>Giuseppe</p>
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Article
harvest report
27.04.2019
2019 Harvest Report from Giuseppe Ferrua
<p><em><strong>A Recap of Fabbrica San Martino's 2019 harvest by Giuseppe Ferrua, October 23rd, 2019.</strong></em></p>
<p>Finally the last <glossary title="843">racking</glossary> has been done. Now we can start thinking about how to best prepare ours soils and ourselves as well for the coming winter after a very long and hot summer which seemed never ending.</p>
<p>Extreme weather conditions are becoming normal. When it rains, we have massive quantities of water in a very short amount of time, soil <glossary title="1153">erosion</glossary> and very high risk of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1136">hail</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> When it's hot, temperatures almost surpass the limit for the plant's survival, very easy therefore to have vines in distress. It has become essential to help the younger ones with <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="549">irrigation</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p>Here at Fabbrica di San Martino, for the moment we seldom have had <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1135">frost</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> probably thanks to our southern <glossary title="430">exposition</glossary> and the influence of the mild temperatures from the sea. Many friends were not so lucky as the <glossary title="1135">frost</glossary> heavily damaged their productions.</p>
<p>In this last long summer we had four rainfalls. They always arrived at the perfect and exact moment when they were most needed, unblocking the vines, allowing them to perfectly ripen.</p>
<p>The <glossary title="1129">yields</glossary> and the <glossary title="700">musts</glossary> have been great, as well as the alcohol content (around 13 degrees).The grapes were very healthy and balanced in their composition, <glossary title="441">fermentations</glossary> were therefore perfect<br />
and finished quickly.</p>
<p>After the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="521">harvest</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> lower temperatures have brought to San Martino the beautiful October light, a sense of peace and calm is taking us to winter time. New insects, birds, animals, our habits are changing as well. In the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="254">cellar</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> wines are still bubbling, slowing down to welcome winter at last.</p>
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Article
harvest report
17.09.2015
2015 Harvest Report from Giuseppe Ferrua
<p><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="360" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/4Kj09u_UTso" width="640"></iframe></p>
<p>Last winter was quite warm and spring, unlike other years, began gradually without any sudden shock to the vines. This allowed all the plants at our farm (including peach, plum and pear trees) to have a harmonious, uniform and gradual blossoming. During springtime we had enough rain and the vines had no diseases. In fact, severe weather conditions never occurred during vital parts of the growing season, such as <span class="zalup"><span> <glossary title="1179">flowering</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> In June summer began and during July temperatures rose, leading to <span class="zalup"><span> <glossary term="Veraison" title="1396">veraison</glossary><span>.</span></span></span><br />
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The heat wave lasted almost sixty days: record high temperatures and the winds coming from the sea dehydrated the plants. Fortunately, rainfalls at the end of August reduced the <glossary title="1167">drought</glossary> conditions so that the vineyard could restart its vegetative cycle. The grapes finally ripened.<br />
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Just by tasting them we realized that it would be an extraordinary year: the grapes were tasty, intense and crispy with amazing skins. So we decided to start the <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> 10-15 days before the traditional <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> time. On the 31st of August we <glossary title="521">harvested</glossary> the <span class="zalup"><span> <glossary title="1081">Vermentino</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> which this year won’t be high in alcohol but will have a good freshness and <span class="zalup"><span> <glossary title="71">acidity</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> On the following days we picked the grapes from our oldest vineyard: <span class="zalup"><span> <glossary title="295">Ciliegiolo</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <span class="zalup"><span> <glossary title="229">Canaiolo</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> the ones that will be in "Arcipressi" red. Because of the heat we had low <glossary title="1129">yields</glossary> but a great <glossary title="784">phenolic</glossary> complexity and high quality grapes. A huge satisfaction came from the <span class="zalup"><span> <glossary title="911">Sangiovese</glossary><span>:</span></span></span> an incredible year with high <span class="zalup"><span> <glossary title="1129">yields</glossary><span>.</span></span></span><br />
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We finished the <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> with <span class="zalup"><span> <glossary title="1043">Trebbiano</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> which had very low <glossary title="1129">yields</glossary> but a high quality profile. We will have to wait until December to better understand how 2015 <glossary title="1109">vintage</glossary> develops but we have high expectations.</p>
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Article
harvest report
12.09.2013
2013 Harvest Pictures from Giuseppe Ferrua
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