producer profile

<p>Originally from the&nbsp;<span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="560">Jura</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> Mathieu Apffel has been producing wine in <glossary title="925">Savoie</glossary> since 2013. He began making small amounts of <glossary title="1211">Apremont</glossary> with a friend before striking out on his own in 2017. That year, he was able to acquire land and a <glossary title="254">cellar</glossary> from a retiring <glossary title="1089">vigneron</glossary> and produce a first <glossary title="1109">vintage</glossary> under his name.</p> <p>Located in the village of Saint-Baldoph, the majority of Mathieu&#39;s land consists of <glossary title="555">Jacqu&egrave;re</glossary> vines planted outside the winery: a serene three <glossary title="523">hectares</glossary> surrounded by quaint houses and, not too far in the distance, the imposing Massif de Chartreuse. The vines are 30 to 70 years old, <glossary title="430">exposed</glossary> East and planted on <glossary title="301">clay</glossary> and <glossary title="596">limestone</glossary> soils heavy in fragmented <glossary title="655">mica-schist</glossary> and <glossary title="842">quartz</glossary> brought by ancient glaciers. The rest of the vines are planted in the nearby village of Saint-Alban, where <glossary title="555">Jacqu&egrave;re</glossary> grows alongside <glossary title="96">Altesse</glossary> on a steep, <glossary title="504">gravelly</glossary> hill. Though 80% of the production consists of white wine, a small amount of <glossary title="478">Gamay</glossary> and <glossary title="484">Mondeuse</glossary> is also produced.</p> <p>Though not abusive in his farming, the prior owner worked <glossary title="331">conventionally</glossary> and Mathieu is <glossary title="332">converting</glossary> the <glossary title="427">estate</glossary> to <glossary term="Organic" title="746">organic</glossary>&nbsp;<span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1103">viticulture</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> For the moment he has not worked the soils in any capacity: grass grows free, though he believes he will start in 2020. 100% of the work is done manually, though again, he owns a small tractor that he will begin using when he works the soils.</p> <p>In the&nbsp;<span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="254">cellar</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> Mathieu comes from the &quot;<glossary title="1378">infusion</glossary>&quot; school of winemaking: eschewing the traditional concept of&nbsp;<span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="433">extraction</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> the goal is to slowly and subtly impart flavor to the juice with&nbsp;<span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1124">whole-clusters</glossary><span>:</span></span></span> think of it as making tea instead of brewing coffee. The <glossary title="441">fermentations</glossary> take place in <glossary title="986">stainless</glossary> and <glossary title="445">fiberglass</glossary> <glossary title="1140">tanks</glossary> as well as <glossary title="142">barrels</glossary>; this is more by necessity than anything else, as he inherited the <glossary title="1160">vessels</glossary> with the winery and is at his very beginnings. Though not dogmatic, Mathieu firmly believes in making wine without <glossary title="447">filtration</glossary> or the addition of&nbsp;<span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="993">sulfur</glossary><span>:</span></span></span></p> <p><em>&quot;Since I started making wine in 2013, I&#39;ve always used <strong><glossary title="538"><em>native yeasts</em></glossary></strong>, but would gently </em><glossary title="447"><em>filter</em></glossary><em> the wines and add </em><glossary title="993"><em>sulfur</em></glossary><em> at&nbsp;<span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="185"><em>bottling</em></glossary><span>.</span></span></span> At a certain point I started realizing that I loved the wine BEFORE it was&nbsp;<span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="185"><em>bottled</em></glossary><span>.</span></span></span> The finished product felt like it was stripped of something essential. I think the solids in the wine are super important. So I started experimenting, failed quite a bit but now feel comfortable working this way.&quot;</em></p>