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Sancerre from Domaine Thomas-Labaille
Domaine Thomas-Labaille Producer Profile
Quick Facts
| Name of Estate | Thomas-Labaille |
|---|---|
| Region | Loire |
| Country | France |
| Proprietor | Jean-Paul Labaille |
| Size | 11 hectares |
| Farming | Sustainable |
| Soils | Clay and Limestone, Kimmeridgian limestone |
| Grapes grown | Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir |
| Fun facts | Domaine Thomas-Labaille produced the first ever "Cuvée Buster"! In fact, it remains the only estate to make an annual bottling of it (they are usually one-offs). |
Domaine Thomas-Labaille produced the first ever "Cuvée Buster"! In fact, it remains the only estate to make an annual bottling of it (they are usually one-offs).
Read more
Quick Facts
| Name of Estate | Thomas-Labaille |
|---|---|
| Region | Loire |
| Country | France |
| Proprietor | Jean-Paul Labaille |
| Size | 11 hectares |
| Farming | Sustainable |
| Soils | Clay and Limestone, Kimmeridgian limestone |
| Grapes grown | Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir |
| Fun facts | Domaine Thomas-Labaille produced the first ever "Cuvée Buster"! In fact, it remains the only estate to make an annual bottling of it (they are usually one-offs). |
Get to know
Thomas-Labaille
producer profile
14.06.2019
Domaine Thomas-Labaille Producer Profile
Thomas-Labaille Producer Profile
Read more…producer profile
<p>Years ago, we visited an old <glossary title="1089">vigneron</glossary> in <glossary title="278">Chavignol</glossary> who had made fabulous <glossary title="908">Sancerre</glossary> before his retirement: <glossary title="740">old-vines</glossary> vineyards in Monts Damnés (<glossary title="908">Sancerre’s</glossary> greatest vineyard site), <em><glossary title="418">élevage</glossary></em> in old <em><glossary title="462">foudres</glossary></em> and <glossary title="447">unfiltered</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="185">bottlings</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> We asked him who continued to work in that style and he said “Cotat and my friend Claude.”</p>
<p>One thing led to another and we were off to meet Claude Thomas, who was busy <glossary title="834">pruning</glossary> his vines in the rain. His wife dragged him into his <glossary title="254">cellar</glossary> where he stripped off mud-caked boots and served us several <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1109">vintages</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Thomas was then 73, and wished to retire, but he was holding on in the hope that his daughter and son-in-law would take over. This finally happened when Jean-Paul Labaille, son-in-law, quit his civil servant job and became a full-time <glossary title="1089">vigneron</glossary> (for the previous ten <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1109">vintages</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> he had taken his vacation during the <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> to be the assistant winemaker to Claude Thomas).<br />
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Only minimal changes have occurred. The vineyards remain among the best in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="278">Chavignol</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> with a large proportion of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="740">old vines</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> The old <glossary title="142">barrels</glossary> are not in use any more, but the vineyard and <glossary title="254">cellar</glossary> work follow the same time-honored techniques. The Monts Damnés <glossary title="1133">plot</glossary> is too steep a slope to ever consider <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="611">machine harvesting</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> which is now the norm in the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="113">appellation</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> and it requires intensive, non-mechanized vineyard work. But <glossary title="1199">drainage</glossary> and <glossary title="430">exposure</glossary> are excellent and ensure the best ripeness for the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1109">vintage</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Labaille has somewhat tidied up Thomas' facilities, which used to be in sharp contrast to most <glossary title="254">cellars</glossary> in the area: instead of a hyper-hygienic room, with wall-to-wall tiled floors and <glossary title="986">stainless steel</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1140">vats</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> his was a <glossary title="210">Burgundian</glossary> type of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="254">cellar</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Some <glossary title="363">cuvées</glossary> still <glossary title="74">age</glossary> in large <glossary title="325">concrete</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1140">vats</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> others in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="986">stainless steel</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> and the <glossary title="731">oak</glossary> <glossary title="142">barrels</glossary> have been replaced by newer ones, mostly second-hand, two to three years old, not in order to impart any <glossary title="731">oaky</glossary> character to the wine, but to let it breathe and evolve slowly on its <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="590">lees</glossary><span>.</span></span></span><br />
<br />
The resulting wine is sensational: rich, fat, round, with layered aromas, a subtle <glossary title="723">nose</glossary> and a long finish. Not a typical bistro <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="908">Sancerre</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> but a graceful wine meant for <glossary title="74">aging</glossary> and pleasure.</p>
producer visit
24.07.2019
Domaine Thomas-Labaille Visit
This visit to Domaine Thomas-Labaille took place in January, 2015
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<p><strong><em>This visit to Domaine Thomas-Labaille took place in January, 2015.</em></strong></p>
<p><strong><em>Words by Jules Dressner, photos by Noah Oldham, David Sink, Patrick Capiello, Hadley Foss and Josefa Concannon.</em></strong></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2020_Jul_21//9e/0d/9e0db4c15542827bca808b8588dafba5.jpeg" /></p>
<p><strong>RIP to Buster, the best dog ever. </strong><br />
<br />
If Louis/Dressner Selections was a band with a greatest hits album, Thomas-Labaille's<em> "</em>Cuvée Buster" would probably be Track 3. <br />
<br />
We didn't have much of a sunlight window, so after a big group greeting with Jean-Paul Labaille, we headed straight to <glossary title="908">Sancerre's</glossary> best and most terryfying vineyard, <em>Les Monts Damnés</em>. </p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//05/2e/052e7b10fe0cd31e021d3ac0b20e5956.jpg" /><br />
<br />
Before getting into any details about Les Monts Damnés, we need to talk about Jean-Paul's jacket. It is without a doubt the best jacket ever worn by a human being. And if its insane color combinations weren't enough, the brand's "manifesto" on the back is all the proof you need:</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//8e/d5/8ed58e922a53c5f7cb49febafcebc47c.jpg" /><br />
<br />
That is the best testimony for the life itself. Fact. <br />
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If you've never met Jean-Paul, the act of so effortlessly pulling off this jacket should cue you in to his extremely confident nature. Because let's face it: that shit is hard to pull off. <br />
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Ok, so have you seen or heard of this Mont Damnés vineyard? It's shockingly steep!</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//99/0c/990c20a3370bedb0701dea6caf658abe.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//54/ac/54acfb36f59cec155e0b7092e6884386.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//88/ad/88ad33643af5c18a14d66415e6541de0.jpg" /><br />
<br />
<em>Monts Damnés</em> is within the <glossary title="322">commune</glossary> of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="278">Chavignol</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> and faces full south. About 80% of the vineyards in <glossary title="278">Chavignol</glossary> are planted on steep hillsides, and are intentionally planted with grass to avoid <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Erosion" title="1153">erosion</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> <em>Monts Damnés</em> is the most extreme example of this steepness. Along with a majority of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="927">Sauvignon Blanc</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> a little bit of <glossary title="803">Pinot</glossary> is planted on the hill's red <glossary title="301">clay </glossary>and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Kimmeridgian" title="565">kimmeridgian limestone</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Due to the steepness of the hill, everything is done either by hand or with a mechanized hand-tiller that is still a ton of work. When they <glossary title="834">prune</glossary> the vines, they leave the cuttings on the ground in order to create a natural <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="442">fertilizer</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> <br />
<br />
From <em>Les Monts Damnés</em>, we headed over to a vineyard called <em>Cul du Beaujau</em>.</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//34/6f/346f40db5dd3e797b6655f089edb1b47.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//0d/4e/0d4e3ebe2a9a340e4753750549410465.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//dc/74/dc7483221b537710d204c4f79273102c.jpg" /><br />
<br />
Jean-Paul doesn't own this vineyard, but considers it one of the best views of <glossary title="278">Chavignol</glossary> (which you can easily spot in the above pictures' backgrounds) and an apt contrast between the village's southern and northern hills, with the latter pictured below.</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//85/37/853727b50242b43356c925faa82a8c23.jpg" /><br />
<br />
Of course, there's two sides to every story, so we then drove to the northern vineyards to check those out. </p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//08/57/0857e7903e839efc465415896d7e4229.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//fc/a2/fca29cf01db0c5cbe8ee8ad172c3b4c5.jpg" /><br />
<br />
Here's a good pic of the view of the southern vineyards:</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//03/fe/03fead314d8d85475790bc4ffa8a94df.jpg" /></p>
<p>The sun was setting, so we decided to head to the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="254">cellar</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> </p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//9c/91/9c91701e251c92b1f4d2a3905933eee3.jpg" /><br />
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When you enter the relatively new Thomas-Labaille <glossary title="254">cellar</glossary> (the facility is barely three years old), you immediately bear witness to this glorious work of art:</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//0d/5a/0d5a5cb664ebe4502760592444ae44e7.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//4e/ca/4ecaab19223cde4e6485d48196d442fa.jpg" /><br />
<br />
Some things you can't un-see...<br />
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Still, if you don't at the very least find this painting amusing, I don't know if we can ever be friends. I can only imagine the reaction of prudish tourists visiting the winery for the first time! Kudos to Jean-Paul for owning the boldest jacket AND self portrait in the universe.<br />
<br />
It was time to taste the 2014's!</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//0d/bc/0dbc0371cb4d201fde74fc11505fcbc7.jpg" /><br />
<br />
The vast majority of Jean-Paul's production <glossary title="441">ferments</glossary> and <glossary title="74">ages</glossary> in these <glossary title="445">fiberglass</glossary> tanks:</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//5c/90/5c90e33f3726a4ac7d786fd59668b2d9.jpg" /><br />
<br />
<em>"They're not the most beautiful things in the world, but they get the job done!"</em><br />
<br />
As with the rest of the <glossary title="602">Loire</glossary> in 2014, everything was showing really well. Unsurprisingly, the highlights were the <glossary title="142">barrels</glossary> of <em>Monts Damnés</em>, particularly the "Cuvée Buster" from a single <glossary title="142">barrel</glossary> from Jean-Paul's best <glossary title="760">parcel</glossary> of <glossary title="740">old vines</glossary> within the "damned hill".</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//3a/a8/3aa858f887bdda81d71917160f7c0b81.jpg" /></p>
<p>Someone spotted and decided to photograph this inspirational calendar:</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//a4/c3/a4c337d7226b58ffcf9be729885e00dc.jpg" /></p>
<p>After tasting the 2014 juices, we were treated to a truly next-level tasting of back <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1109">vintages</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//03/60/0360420f4b7f345d4e640ae14988b014.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//f9/63/f963c1eb082da637a71c7604091a84bf.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//c4/aa/c4aa7427b6025759651aedf0ff4e77d9.jpg" /></p>
<p>Jean-Paul pulled out all the stops. We tasted 2012, 2008, 2006 and 2001 "Monts Damnés", 1997, 1996 1988 and 1985 <glossary title="908">Sancerre</glossary> (later renamed "L' Authentique"), as well as a 1999 and 1997<font color="#7b143e"><strong> "</strong></font>Cuvée Buster". 1997 was the first ever<font color="#7b143e"><strong> "</strong></font>Cuvée Buster", so this was an especially special bottle to try. <br />
<br />
If having such an amazing tasting wasn't enough, Jean-Paul's wife Laurence prepared us a true feast that was one of the best meals of the trip!</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//6b/ba/6bba5349cfee74cd312eaa18d8a0718c.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//8e/81/8e81581ed91c81d0bbe4410b542f4123.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//3f/f2/3ff2b78a842871fad31c2f705f1966b3.jpg" /></p>
<p>Look at the size of that cheese plate!!!</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//28/82/28821a1db3083e306e8aab233d30b146.jpg" /><br />
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When I complemented Laurence after the meal, she told me:<br />
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<em>"It's easy. I'm used to it." </em><br />
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Oh my god can she cook! Jean-Paul was in a really good mood, and ended the night with 1985 Mirabelle <glossary term="Eau de Vie" title="411">marc</glossary> and 1983 grape <glossary term="Eau de Vie" title="411">marc</glossary> that happened to be kicking around. </p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//07/78/0778d89462c2a617282ae72e1d906c76.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//60/4c/604cd02d18dd835f085194a3aa75d8cf.jpg" /><br />
<br />
Man that was a fun night.</p>
harvest report
02.01.2023
A Satisfying 2023 for Thomas-Labaille
2023 Harvest Report from Jean-Paul Labaille
Read more…harvest report
<p><strong>November 27th, 2023:</strong></p>
<p>We had a very humid spring, which complicated the work on the soils that follows <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Pruning" title="834">pruning</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> In mid-May the weather got better, leading to <glossary term="Flowering" title="1179">flowering</glossary> in early June under good meteorological conditions. At that point, what we were seeing was rather promising and we were anticipating <glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvesting</glossary> in early September. As has been the case over the last few years, the heat started creeping up in late June and the weather remained hot and dry. This led us to pushing our initial harvest plans back and we ended up starting the <glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvest</glossary> on September 17th.</p>
<p>We'd done a <glossary term="Green Harvest" title="507">green harvest</glossary> in July, which limited production but gave much more balance to the juices. We also felt we could take the risk this year, as <glossary term="Yield" title="1129">yields</glossary> were quite satisfactory. As the wines finished their <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Fermentation" title="441">fermentation</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> our predictions were confirmed. The profile of 2023 will be quite similar to 2022 as far as <glossary term="alcoholic potential" title="1381">alcoholic potential</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Acidity" title="71">acidity</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Climate has certainly impacted our <glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvests</glossary> more and more, resulting in wines that are much rounder than they used to be.</p>
<p>Here are some accompanying pictures.</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//985/4b/6d/4b6d2266baeea6c8cd7c157525c53f94.jpg" /><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//985/e0/a4/e0a40de68cdf14505cbacf33145131b2.jpg" /><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//985/21/5c/215cd27e832386abb29885d74752389a.jpg" /><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//985/96/42/964253c03572f735a072fe5e0a433216.jpg" /><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//985/9b/56/9b56e68a9c52a35d6b8d696a545ae15c.jpg" /></p>
harvest report
26.12.2022
Quality and Quantity for Domaine Thomas-Labaille in 2022
2022 Harvest Report from Jean-Paul Labaille
Read more…harvest report
<p>Here is a short recap of our 2022.</p>
<p>Following the terrible <glossary term="Frost" title="1135">frost</glossary> that impacted our crop and sales in 2021, it almost feels like 2022 was blessed from above. </p>
<p>While it's true that <glossary term="Drought" title="1167">drought</glossary> and <glossary term="Hail" title="1136">hail</glossary> impacted many vineyards this year and that the heavy rainfalls in June made it very challenging to work the soils, in the end the vines were balanced and we did not suffer the same amount of hydric stress felt by so many other regions. </p>
<p>We even had some light rain in August and at the very beginning of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvest</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> giving us grapes of great quantity and quality. We began on September 5th, interupted once on the 7th by a <glossary term="Hail" title="1136">hail</glossary> storm that touched the Northwest of the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Appellation" title="113">appellation</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> In <glossary term="Chavignol" title="278">Chavignol</glossary> there were zero impacts.</p>
<p>Qualitatively, we are in for a good <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintage</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> The <glossary term="Fermentation" title="441">fermentations</glossary> have been going well, with <glossary term="PH" title="783">PH</glossary> levels between 3.2 and 3.3, permitting us to keep a good amount of freshness. The alchohol will end up between 12.5 and 13.5, maybe as high at 13.7 on the Monts-Damnés. </p>
<p>2022 really reminds me of 2018, which is very promising! </p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//957/9a/c7/9ac739cb614cf7d3b912972d3f595eaf.jpg" /><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//957/99/2d/992d6ea2ad5842d5fadcbcc486ec0901.jpg" /><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//957/d1/8d/d18d1f6900b0bb6728a615559a42fc9b.jpg" /><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//957/19/14/19140d077ed16cba9e5fb653fb8225ba.jpg" /><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//957/c4/0e/c40e52855fcde84e7b787f4fa512eadd.jpg" /><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//957/14/45/14459c87a904cf4606d644092843a4e7.jpg" /></p>
harvest report
15.12.2021
A "Rotten" 2021 at Thomas-Labaille
2021 Harvest Report from Jean-Paul Labaille
Read more…harvest report
<p>No surprise, the 2021 <glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvest</glossary> was a very fast one, with a bit of rain that slightly affected the sanitary state of the grapes. Mont Damnés in particular was catastrophic for us, we picked about five <glossary term="Hectoliter" title="524">hectoliters</glossary> from our <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectare</glossary> of vines. We have therefore decided not to make a Mont Damnés <glossary term="Bottling" title="185">bottling</glossary> nor a "Cuvée Buster" in 2021. The little volume we had will be <glossary term="Blend" title="168">blended</glossary> into "L'Authentique 2021", itself a wine heavily impacted by <glossary term="Frost" title="1135">frost</glossary> with about 1/3rd of what we produced in 2020. </p>
<p>The alcohol will be lower than the last few years and there will be an <glossary term="Acidity" title="71">acidity</glossary> that I felt has been missing, so it's going to be more balanced than immediate past <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintages</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> We are turning the page on this forsaken year and hoping for the best in 2022. </p>
<p>One tiny bit of satisfaction: we won't make red but will produce a bit of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Rosé/Rosato" title="871">rosé</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
harvest report
19.01.2020
2020 at Thomas-Labaille: A very Particular Year in Every Aspect
2020 Harvest Report from Jean-Paul Labaille
Read more…harvest report
<p><u><strong>November 8th, 2020:</strong></u></p>
<p>This year was very particular in every aspect, including our <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvest</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p>After <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Pruning" title="834">pruning</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> the evolution of the vines was very rapid due to constant high temperatures. <glossary term="Flowering" title="1179">Flowering</glossary> was super early so we were also anticipating a super early <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvest</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> We once again had a <glossary term="Drought" title="1167">drought</glossary> from June to September: lots of grapes on the vines but the lack of water made the skins harden and limited the juice in each berry.</p>
<p>Some <glossary term="Estate" title="427">estates</glossary> started picking in the last week of August; even 2003 was not this precocious. We began on September 3rd, as the <glossary term="alcoholic potential" title="1381">potentials</glossary> were rising quickly due to the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Drought" title="1167">drought</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> We harvested the <glossary term="Pinot Noir" title="805">Pinot</glossary> for the red and rosé because they were turning into dried raisins. <glossary term="Yield" title="1129">Yields</glossary> were quite low for reds, about 25<glossary term="hl/ha" title="528">hl/h</glossary> (a normal year would be around 50<glossary term="hl/ha" title="528">hl/h</glossary>). </p>
<p>We quickly followed with the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Sauvignon Blanc" title="927">Sauvignons</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> because here too the <glossary term="alcoholic potential" title="1381">potentials</glossary> were veering upwards: between 13.5 and 15%! "Monts Damnés" and "Cuvée Buster" will both be between 14 and 15%. With such high <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Maturation" title="639">maturities</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary term="Acidity" title="71">acidities</glossary> are low but we are starting to get used to this. Though I feel that <glossary term="Sauvignon Blanc" title="927">Sauvignon</glossary> should be fresher, we the <glossary term="Vigneron/Vignaiolo" title="1089">vignerons</glossary> and our customers need to accept this is what the wines are increasingly going to be like. </p>
harvest report
27.04.2019
2019 at Domaine Thomas-Labaille
2019 Harvest Report from Jean-Paul Labaille
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<p><strong><u>October 10th, 2019:</u></strong></p>
<p>2019 was yet another destabilizing <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1109">vintage</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> </p>
<p>The <glossary title="1179">flowering</glossary> suffered from the heat, resulting in an important <glossary title="1252">coulure</glossary> that eliminated a significant part of the crop, only to be followed up by additional damage from <glossary term="Frost" title="1135">frost</glossary> in late April. </p>
<p>As we work <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="999">sustainably</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> very few <glossary title="328">treatments</glossary> occurred in the vines this year, only three. But what is good for nature is not always great for the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1089">vigneron</glossary><span>:</span></span></span> the very mild winter with no low humidity followed by extreme heat from June to September made the vines suffer greatly. It also meant alcoholic degrees ballooning and the crop dwindling. </p>
<p>We began <glossary title="521">harvesting</glossary> on September 18th and finished on October 1st. We got some rain fall towards the end but it was too late: the crop is modest with <glossary term="alcoholic potential" title="1381">potentials</glossary> above 13% and relatively low <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="71">acidities</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Fortunetly the balance of the <glossary title="700">must</glossary> is good. It's yet another <glossary title="908">Sancerre</glossary> <glossary title="1109">vintage</glossary> that will show radically different based on which villages and <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcels</glossary> the wines come from. I think it will be quite similar to 2017, which should be confirmed after the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1104">vinifications</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> </p>
<p>In the end it's a good <glossary title="1109">vintage</glossary> with very healthy grapes (not a single rotten berry) but with wines becoming more and more unrecognizable to the <glossary title="908">Sancerres</glossary> we used to produce. I think we'll have to all get used to this style of wine: the vines of France is more and more marked and dependent on its climate.</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2020_Apr_27//dd/6d/dd6daabe10163e91b360a9e5a19b9535.jpg" /><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2020_Apr_27//b7/6d/b76d8a930326b6db6616433cc2288162.jpg" /><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2020_Apr_27//e2/12/e212e978b9c54b642311de0a92db0d6b.jpg" /><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2020_Apr_27//90/ad/90ad03dbc3c58a4e4c8f1cf5a218f420.jpg" /></p>
harvest report
13.10.2017
2017: Another Challenging Year in Sancerre for Thomas-Labaille.
2017 Harvest Report from Jean-Paul Labaille
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<p>Another complicated year. We had heavy <glossary term="Frost" title="1135">frosts</glossary> in late April; in spite of many bails of hay light on fire, <glossary term="Chavignol" title="278">Chavignol</glossary> was not spared. This is the worst <glossary term="Frost" title="1135">frost</glossary> in the village since 1991. It was also a precocious year, and the hot summer sped things up even more; we originally planned to <glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvest</glossary> on September 7th, but ended up starting on the 15th.<br />
<br />
Though it was rainy during <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvest</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> the sanitary state of the grapes was good (though there was not much juice in the berries). The quantity is of course heavily affected by the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Frost" title="1135">frost</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> but the quality of the juices is there.<br />
<br />
On the 18th, the sun came back and we were able to work the Monts Damnés in beautiful weather. With the lowering <glossary term="Acidity" title="71">acidities</glossary> and higher degrees, it reminds me of 2015, but with a smaller crop. In fact, this is the smallest crop since 2009 on Monts Damnés.<br />
<br />
The higher degrees also mean <glossary term="Vinification" title="1104">vinification</glossary> will be more challenging. With the last few <glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintages</glossary> being drastically different climactically, our <glossary term="Sauvignon Blanc" title="927">Sauvignon</glossary> is having a hard time finding its balance. I can only imagine that things are going to get more drastic from village to village, because certain sectors are way more affected than others.</p>
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harvest report
26.11.2011
Domaine Thomas-Labaille's 2011 Harvest Report
2011 Harvest Report from Jean-Paul Labaille
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<p><u><strong>November 26th, 2011:</strong></u></p>
<p>All year we experienced the opposite climactic conditions of a normal <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1109">vintage</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Spring was very hot and dry, which considerably accelerated the plant's vegetation. They were in full bloom late May, which led us to believe we'd have a very precocious <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="521">harvest</glossary><span>.</span></span></span><br />
<br />
Starting mid-July, the weather started getting worse and we got an enormous amount of rain, as well as fairly low temperatures for the season. The pressure of dealing with <glossary title="1137">mildew</glossary> suddenly became something we were worried about for August.<br />
<br />
Our initial plan to <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> exceptionally early (in late August) was therefore thwarted, but we still had to act fast because we didn't want the grapes to rot. In such, we started on September 5th. Our first day was under the rain, but thankfully the sun was out the next day. The <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> was saved and the quality preserved. We continued picking until September 20th under good weather conditions.<br />
<br />
The <glossary term="alcoholic potential" title="1381">alcoholic potentials</glossary> are good (12.8% for the "Authentique"), and even a little high for the Mont Damnés (13.3%). Areas threatened by rot ended up drying out and the <glossary title="639">maturities</glossary> are good. We got there just in time, as the <glossary title="71">acidities</glossary> were on the brink of dropping.<br />
<br />
2011 is a particular <glossary title="1109">vintage</glossary> with an atypical vegetive cycle, but has produced balanced wines (stylistically they are somewhere in between 2009 and 2010), and production was normal. The summer rain, while unpleasant, brought the grapes back to life. Otherwise they would have dried out and our <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> would have been catastrophic.<br />
<br />
You could say 2011 was saved by the rain…</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Sep_25//c4/7d/c47d92e57d5e998277b2667994ae1410.jpg" /></p>
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<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Sep_25//b3/b8/b3b85ed6e1df1ba4ba01220909c057a1.jpg" /></p>
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harvest report
16.10.2010
2010: Jean-Paul Labaille in Sancerre
2010 Harvest Report from Jean-Paul Labaille
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<p><u><strong>Chavignol, October 16th 2010:</strong></u></p>
<p>I am doing this brief <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> report on the 2010 <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> a little late. I had a problem right before <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> (a fall from a ladder resulting in a dislocated shoulder and a sprained wrist) which has been a bit of a handicap for me during this period.<br />
<br />
In terms of weather, 2010 was fairly average. After a rigorous winter, May and June were damp and the <glossary term="Flowering" title="1179">flowering</glossary> was irregular and pretty late which led us to predict an early October <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="521">harvest</glossary><span>.</span></span></span><br />
<br />
In contrast to the last few years, this September was quite cold which slowed down the ripening process.<br />
<br />
I will attack the <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> on October 1st, the weather is very uncertain and this scares us – there is a clear and present danger of rot.<br />
<br />
It rained 50mm the weekend before the <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> and this weakened the grapes.<br />
<br />
On Monday October 4th, an incessant rain beat down on us and forced us to send the pickers away. Tuesday was still damp but acceptable. Then on Wednesday, a miracle, the sun reappeared and saved us from despair. Disaster avoided.<br />
<br />
We finished the <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> on Monday October 11th, happy to have saved the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1109">vintage</glossary><span>.</span></span></span><br />
<br />
2010 has turned out to be more bountiful than the very small 2009 <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> and will also be a more balanced <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1109">vintage</glossary><span>.</span></span></span><br />
<br />
Later <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> years are much more characteristic of <glossary title="908">Sancerre</glossary> than earlier <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> years.<br />
<br />
2010 has good <glossary title="71">acidity</glossary> (between 5.5 and 6 g) and a beautiful finesse (I think we are close to the 2002 and 1996 <glossary title="1109">vintages</glossary>).<br />
<br />
The dry weather at the end of the <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> stopped the rot and we were able to bring in good quality grapes.<br />
<br />
If the <glossary title="441">fermentations</glossary> go well, the 2010 <glossary title="1109">vintage</glossary> will be a powerful engine to get <glossary title="908">Sancerre</glossary> lovers to start overindulging again.<br />
<br />
So this a ray of hope in a somewhat morose climate and with a vineyard dying of a disease which we cannot control (<glossary title="425">Esca</glossary>) , which not only kills around 10% of our vines every year but also brings serious financial costs.</p>
harvest report
10.09.2008
2008: Domaine Thomas-Labaille, Chavignol (Sancerre)
2008 Harvest Report from Jean-Paul Labaille
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<p>After rainy and cold July and August, disease (<glossary title="1137">mildew</glossary> and <glossary title="737">oidium</glossary>) got worse. The <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> of 2008 looked to be even more difficult than in 2007. We were planning a <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> like in the 1980s and 1990s, i.e. in early October.<br />
<br />
The second half of September was very dry and cold, which <glossary title="324">concentrated</glossary> the juice and the <glossary title="71">acidity</glossary> levels were high. The official date to start the <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> was set on Sept. 29th. On that day, we had a major disappointment: the <glossary title="1381">potential degree</glossary> was high (13.5%) and the <glossary title="1129">yields</glossary> were very low (30<glossary title="528">HL/HA</glossary>). We had to wait for some rain to soften the berries.<br />
<br />
On Oct. 3rd, I started with my <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="805">Pinot Noir</glossary><span>:</span></span></span> good quality and low <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1129">yields</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> which is perfect for the variety. On that day, we also got the rain we were hoping for.<br />
<br />
We started picking the <glossary title="927">Sauvignon</glossary> on Oct. 7th, our hopes are growing, since there is more juice and the degree has fallen to 12.5%. The <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> went slowly, this year one had to have patience. We finished on Oct. 14th with the Monts Damnés vines.<br />
<br />
2008 seems to have good balance, and small <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1129">yields</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> It should be a lot like 2007, but with more structure, and <glossary title="71">acidity</glossary> similar to 2002. We will know more after the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="441">fermentations</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
harvest report
07.10.2006
2006: Monts Damnés Benefits from Final Rainfall
2006 Harvest Report from Jean-Paul Labaille
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<p><u><strong>October 7th, 2006:</strong></u></p>
<p>With their high temperatures, June and July caused <glossary term="Millerandage" title="1393">millerandage</glossary> (partial abortion of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1179">flowering</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> resulting in smaller and fewer berries on each <glossary title="1138">bunch</glossary>) and stress on the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1179">flowering</glossary><span>.</span></span></span><br />
<br />
August was cool and somewhat rainy, and the progress of <glossary title="639">maturation</glossary> was stopped. Then September started with hot temperatures and no rain, so that the <glossary title="324">concentration</glossary> got accelerated.<br />
<br />
The official starting date for the <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> was September 15th. Our pickers arrived on September 21st, and we picked our <glossary title="805">Pinot noir</glossary> first, just when the skins were going to wrinkle (a sign, especially on <glossary title="805">Pinot Noir</glossary> grapes, that optimum <glossary title="639">maturity</glossary> has been reached). There was good <span class="zalup"><span> <glossary title="1010">tannins</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> good color, a reasonable <glossary title="1129">yield</glossary> of 4 <span class="zalup"><span>5<glossary title="528">HL/HA</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> and a <glossary term="alcoholic potential" title="1381">potential degree</glossary> of 12.5% alcohol.<br />
<br />
We started picking our <glossary title="927">Sauvignon blanc</glossary> on September 23rd, with the grapes for<font color="#7b143e"><strong> "</strong></font>Cuvée Authentique". The <glossary title="1129">yield</glossary> was average, 5 <span class="zalup"><span>0<glossary title="528">HL/HA</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> the degrees were between 13 and 13.5% alcohol, with rather low <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="71">acidity</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> The grapes had suffered from the <span class="zalup"><span> <glossary term="Drought" title="1167">drought</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> the skins were thick and the juice difficult to extract.<br />
<br />
On Sunday September 24th, we were at rest, and it started to rain. This rainfall was highly beneficial, and from Monday on, the <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> on the Monts Damnés was much better balanced: the skins became softer and <glossary title="827">pressing</glossary> was a lot easier, the degrees went down slightly, as a result of the rain.<br />
<br />
We finished on Friday, September 29th with the traditional poêlée (end of <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> celebration dinner), which celebrates all the work accomplished through the growing season.<br />
<br />
I think this <glossary title="1109">vintage</glossary> will show similarities with 2005, with rich, fruity wines meant for medium-length age-worthiness. This opinion will, I hope, be confirmed when the <glossary title="1104">vinification</glossary> is over.</p>
harvest report
03.10.2005
2005: At Last, Good News from Sancerre
2005 Harvest Report from Jean-Paul Labaille
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<p><u><strong>October 3rd, 2005:</strong></u></p>
<p>We started our <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> on September 20th with 25 harvesters under wonderful weather and finished the 28th without seeing a drop of rain.<br />
<br />
The grapes were perfectly healthy, thanks to the dry weather in August. <glossary title="1129">Yields</glossary> are average, but the <glossary term="alcoholic potential" title="1381">potential degrees of alcohol</glossary> are very good, between 13 and 13.5%, so that there is no need to <glossary title="270">chaptalize</glossary> this <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1109">vintage</glossary><span>.</span></span></span><br />
<br />
I think 2005 is going to resemble 2002, with its great balance of sugar and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="71">acidity</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> <glossary title="441">Fermentations</glossary> have started and I await confirmation of an excellent <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1109">vintage</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
harvest report
20.09.2003
2003 at Thomas-Labaille
2003 Harvest Report from Jean-Paul Labaille
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<p>Today is October 26th and at this point, we can look back and try to summarize this very unusual year. The end of the <glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvest</glossary> took place on September 20th in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Sancerre" title="908">Sancerre</glossary><span>.</span></span></span><br />
<br />
The <glossary title="87">alcoholic fermentations</glossary> are practically finished, but it was tough going for the wines with high levels of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="alcoholic potential" title="1381">potential alcohol</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Certain <glossary title="760">parcels</glossary> had 14.5-15% <glossary term="alcoholic potential" title="1381">potential alcohol</glossary> - degrees almost unheard of in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="908">Sancerre</glossary><span>.</span></span></span><br />
<br />
<glossary title="71">Acidity</glossary> levels have been relatively low. We obtained the right to <glossary term="Acidification" title="70">acidify</glossary> this year to compensate. So far, I haven’t done it, I would prefer to respect the character of the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1109">vintage</glossary><span>.</span></span></span><br />
<br />
On the other hand, the <glossary title="1133">plots</glossary> which suffered from the heat wave (with scorched leaves and grapes), had lower levels of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="alcoholic potential" title="1381">potential alcohol</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> These will help to balance the rest, giving this year’s crop an average level of 13% <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="alcoholic potential" title="1381">potential alcohol</glossary><span>.</span></span></span><br />
<br />
Fruit will not be the main characteristic this year. These wines will be round and <glossary title="324">concentrated</glossary> - a bit in the style of 1997. It’s possible that this will be an exceptional <glossary title="1109">vintage</glossary> for a few <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="760">parcels</glossary><span>.</span></span></span><br />
<br />
<glossary title="1104">Vinification</glossary> this year has not been run of the mill due to the fact that we are not at all used to working these sorts of wines.<br />
<br />
It’s still too early to taste objectively, but however it turns out, 2003 will long remain in our memories if not in the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="254">cellar</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> given that quantities are the opposite of the degrees.<br />
<br />
In other words, this small and exceptional <glossary title="1109">vintage</glossary> will be drunk young and with much pleasure.</p>
producer profile
14.06.2019
Thomas-Labaille Producer Profile
<p>Years ago, we visited an old <glossary title="1089">vigneron</glossary> in <glossary title="278">Chavignol</glossary> who had made fabulous <glossary title="908">Sancerre</glossary> before his retirement: <glossary title="740">old-vines</glossary> vineyards in Monts Damnés (<glossary title="908">Sancerre’s</glossary> greatest vineyard site), <em><glossary title="418">élevage</glossary></em> in old <em><glossary title="462">foudres</glossary></em> and <glossary title="447">unfiltered</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="185">bottlings</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> We asked him who continued to work in that style and he said “Cotat and my friend Claude.”</p>
<p>One thing led to another and we were off to meet Claude Thomas, who was busy <glossary title="834">pruning</glossary> his vines in the rain. His wife dragged him into his <glossary title="254">cellar</glossary> where he stripped off mud-caked boots and served us several <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1109">vintages</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Thomas was then 73, and wished to retire, but he was holding on in the hope that his daughter and son-in-law would take over. This finally happened when Jean-Paul Labaille, son-in-law, quit his civil servant job and became a full-time <glossary title="1089">vigneron</glossary> (for the previous ten <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1109">vintages</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> he had taken his vacation during the <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> to be the assistant winemaker to Claude Thomas).<br />
<br />
Only minimal changes have occurred. The vineyards remain among the best in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="278">Chavignol</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> with a large proportion of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="740">old vines</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> The old <glossary title="142">barrels</glossary> are not in use any more, but the vineyard and <glossary title="254">cellar</glossary> work follow the same time-honored techniques. The Monts Damnés <glossary title="1133">plot</glossary> is too steep a slope to ever consider <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="611">machine harvesting</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> which is now the norm in the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="113">appellation</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> and it requires intensive, non-mechanized vineyard work. But <glossary title="1199">drainage</glossary> and <glossary title="430">exposure</glossary> are excellent and ensure the best ripeness for the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1109">vintage</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Labaille has somewhat tidied up Thomas' facilities, which used to be in sharp contrast to most <glossary title="254">cellars</glossary> in the area: instead of a hyper-hygienic room, with wall-to-wall tiled floors and <glossary title="986">stainless steel</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1140">vats</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> his was a <glossary title="210">Burgundian</glossary> type of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="254">cellar</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Some <glossary title="363">cuvées</glossary> still <glossary title="74">age</glossary> in large <glossary title="325">concrete</glossary> <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1140">vats</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> others in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="986">stainless steel</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> and the <glossary title="731">oak</glossary> <glossary title="142">barrels</glossary> have been replaced by newer ones, mostly second-hand, two to three years old, not in order to impart any <glossary title="731">oaky</glossary> character to the wine, but to let it breathe and evolve slowly on its <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="590">lees</glossary><span>.</span></span></span><br />
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The resulting wine is sensational: rich, fat, round, with layered aromas, a subtle <glossary title="723">nose</glossary> and a long finish. Not a typical bistro <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="908">Sancerre</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> but a graceful wine meant for <glossary title="74">aging</glossary> and pleasure.</p>
Article
producer visit
24.07.2019
This visit to Domaine Thomas-Labaille took place in January, 2015
<p><strong><em>This visit to Domaine Thomas-Labaille took place in January, 2015.</em></strong></p>
<p><strong><em>Words by Jules Dressner, photos by Noah Oldham, David Sink, Patrick Capiello, Hadley Foss and Josefa Concannon.</em></strong></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2020_Jul_21//9e/0d/9e0db4c15542827bca808b8588dafba5.jpeg" /></p>
<p><strong>RIP to Buster, the best dog ever. </strong><br />
<br />
If Louis/Dressner Selections was a band with a greatest hits album, Thomas-Labaille's<em> "</em>Cuvée Buster" would probably be Track 3. <br />
<br />
We didn't have much of a sunlight window, so after a big group greeting with Jean-Paul Labaille, we headed straight to <glossary title="908">Sancerre's</glossary> best and most terryfying vineyard, <em>Les Monts Damnés</em>. </p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//05/2e/052e7b10fe0cd31e021d3ac0b20e5956.jpg" /><br />
<br />
Before getting into any details about Les Monts Damnés, we need to talk about Jean-Paul's jacket. It is without a doubt the best jacket ever worn by a human being. And if its insane color combinations weren't enough, the brand's "manifesto" on the back is all the proof you need:</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//8e/d5/8ed58e922a53c5f7cb49febafcebc47c.jpg" /><br />
<br />
That is the best testimony for the life itself. Fact. <br />
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If you've never met Jean-Paul, the act of so effortlessly pulling off this jacket should cue you in to his extremely confident nature. Because let's face it: that shit is hard to pull off. <br />
<br />
Ok, so have you seen or heard of this Mont Damnés vineyard? It's shockingly steep!</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//99/0c/990c20a3370bedb0701dea6caf658abe.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//54/ac/54acfb36f59cec155e0b7092e6884386.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//88/ad/88ad33643af5c18a14d66415e6541de0.jpg" /><br />
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<em>Monts Damnés</em> is within the <glossary title="322">commune</glossary> of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="278">Chavignol</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> and faces full south. About 80% of the vineyards in <glossary title="278">Chavignol</glossary> are planted on steep hillsides, and are intentionally planted with grass to avoid <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Erosion" title="1153">erosion</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> <em>Monts Damnés</em> is the most extreme example of this steepness. Along with a majority of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="927">Sauvignon Blanc</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> a little bit of <glossary title="803">Pinot</glossary> is planted on the hill's red <glossary title="301">clay </glossary>and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Kimmeridgian" title="565">kimmeridgian limestone</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Due to the steepness of the hill, everything is done either by hand or with a mechanized hand-tiller that is still a ton of work. When they <glossary title="834">prune</glossary> the vines, they leave the cuttings on the ground in order to create a natural <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="442">fertilizer</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> <br />
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From <em>Les Monts Damnés</em>, we headed over to a vineyard called <em>Cul du Beaujau</em>.</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//34/6f/346f40db5dd3e797b6655f089edb1b47.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//0d/4e/0d4e3ebe2a9a340e4753750549410465.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//dc/74/dc7483221b537710d204c4f79273102c.jpg" /><br />
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Jean-Paul doesn't own this vineyard, but considers it one of the best views of <glossary title="278">Chavignol</glossary> (which you can easily spot in the above pictures' backgrounds) and an apt contrast between the village's southern and northern hills, with the latter pictured below.</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//85/37/853727b50242b43356c925faa82a8c23.jpg" /><br />
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Of course, there's two sides to every story, so we then drove to the northern vineyards to check those out. </p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//08/57/0857e7903e839efc465415896d7e4229.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//fc/a2/fca29cf01db0c5cbe8ee8ad172c3b4c5.jpg" /><br />
<br />
Here's a good pic of the view of the southern vineyards:</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//03/fe/03fead314d8d85475790bc4ffa8a94df.jpg" /></p>
<p>The sun was setting, so we decided to head to the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="254">cellar</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> </p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//9c/91/9c91701e251c92b1f4d2a3905933eee3.jpg" /><br />
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When you enter the relatively new Thomas-Labaille <glossary title="254">cellar</glossary> (the facility is barely three years old), you immediately bear witness to this glorious work of art:</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//0d/5a/0d5a5cb664ebe4502760592444ae44e7.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//4e/ca/4ecaab19223cde4e6485d48196d442fa.jpg" /><br />
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Some things you can't un-see...<br />
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Still, if you don't at the very least find this painting amusing, I don't know if we can ever be friends. I can only imagine the reaction of prudish tourists visiting the winery for the first time! Kudos to Jean-Paul for owning the boldest jacket AND self portrait in the universe.<br />
<br />
It was time to taste the 2014's!</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//0d/bc/0dbc0371cb4d201fde74fc11505fcbc7.jpg" /><br />
<br />
The vast majority of Jean-Paul's production <glossary title="441">ferments</glossary> and <glossary title="74">ages</glossary> in these <glossary title="445">fiberglass</glossary> tanks:</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//5c/90/5c90e33f3726a4ac7d786fd59668b2d9.jpg" /><br />
<br />
<em>"They're not the most beautiful things in the world, but they get the job done!"</em><br />
<br />
As with the rest of the <glossary title="602">Loire</glossary> in 2014, everything was showing really well. Unsurprisingly, the highlights were the <glossary title="142">barrels</glossary> of <em>Monts Damnés</em>, particularly the "Cuvée Buster" from a single <glossary title="142">barrel</glossary> from Jean-Paul's best <glossary title="760">parcel</glossary> of <glossary title="740">old vines</glossary> within the "damned hill".</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//3a/a8/3aa858f887bdda81d71917160f7c0b81.jpg" /></p>
<p>Someone spotted and decided to photograph this inspirational calendar:</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//a4/c3/a4c337d7226b58ffcf9be729885e00dc.jpg" /></p>
<p>After tasting the 2014 juices, we were treated to a truly next-level tasting of back <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1109">vintages</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//03/60/0360420f4b7f345d4e640ae14988b014.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//f9/63/f963c1eb082da637a71c7604091a84bf.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//c4/aa/c4aa7427b6025759651aedf0ff4e77d9.jpg" /></p>
<p>Jean-Paul pulled out all the stops. We tasted 2012, 2008, 2006 and 2001 "Monts Damnés", 1997, 1996 1988 and 1985 <glossary title="908">Sancerre</glossary> (later renamed "L' Authentique"), as well as a 1999 and 1997<font color="#7b143e"><strong> "</strong></font>Cuvée Buster". 1997 was the first ever<font color="#7b143e"><strong> "</strong></font>Cuvée Buster", so this was an especially special bottle to try. <br />
<br />
If having such an amazing tasting wasn't enough, Jean-Paul's wife Laurence prepared us a true feast that was one of the best meals of the trip!</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//6b/ba/6bba5349cfee74cd312eaa18d8a0718c.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//8e/81/8e81581ed91c81d0bbe4410b542f4123.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//3f/f2/3ff2b78a842871fad31c2f705f1966b3.jpg" /></p>
<p>Look at the size of that cheese plate!!!</p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//28/82/28821a1db3083e306e8aab233d30b146.jpg" /><br />
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When I complemented Laurence after the meal, she told me:<br />
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<em>"It's easy. I'm used to it." </em><br />
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Oh my god can she cook! Jean-Paul was in a really good mood, and ended the night with 1985 Mirabelle <glossary term="Eau de Vie" title="411">marc</glossary> and 1983 grape <glossary term="Eau de Vie" title="411">marc</glossary> that happened to be kicking around. </p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//07/78/0778d89462c2a617282ae72e1d906c76.jpg" /></p>
<p><img src="http://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article/2019_Jul_24//60/4c/604cd02d18dd835f085194a3aa75d8cf.jpg" /><br />
<br />
Man that was a fun night.</p>
Article
harvest report
02.01.2023
2023 Harvest Report from Jean-Paul Labaille
<p><strong>November 27th, 2023:</strong></p>
<p>We had a very humid spring, which complicated the work on the soils that follows <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Pruning" title="834">pruning</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> In mid-May the weather got better, leading to <glossary term="Flowering" title="1179">flowering</glossary> in early June under good meteorological conditions. At that point, what we were seeing was rather promising and we were anticipating <glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvesting</glossary> in early September. As has been the case over the last few years, the heat started creeping up in late June and the weather remained hot and dry. This led us to pushing our initial harvest plans back and we ended up starting the <glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvest</glossary> on September 17th.</p>
<p>We'd done a <glossary term="Green Harvest" title="507">green harvest</glossary> in July, which limited production but gave much more balance to the juices. We also felt we could take the risk this year, as <glossary term="Yield" title="1129">yields</glossary> were quite satisfactory. As the wines finished their <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Fermentation" title="441">fermentation</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> our predictions were confirmed. The profile of 2023 will be quite similar to 2022 as far as <glossary term="alcoholic potential" title="1381">alcoholic potential</glossary> and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Acidity" title="71">acidity</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Climate has certainly impacted our <glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvests</glossary> more and more, resulting in wines that are much rounder than they used to be.</p>
<p>Here are some accompanying pictures.</p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//985/4b/6d/4b6d2266baeea6c8cd7c157525c53f94.jpg" /><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//985/e0/a4/e0a40de68cdf14505cbacf33145131b2.jpg" /><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//985/21/5c/215cd27e832386abb29885d74752389a.jpg" /><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//985/96/42/964253c03572f735a072fe5e0a433216.jpg" /><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//985/9b/56/9b56e68a9c52a35d6b8d696a545ae15c.jpg" /></p>
Article
harvest report
26.12.2022
2022 Harvest Report from Jean-Paul Labaille
<p>Here is a short recap of our 2022.</p>
<p>Following the terrible <glossary term="Frost" title="1135">frost</glossary> that impacted our crop and sales in 2021, it almost feels like 2022 was blessed from above. </p>
<p>While it's true that <glossary term="Drought" title="1167">drought</glossary> and <glossary term="Hail" title="1136">hail</glossary> impacted many vineyards this year and that the heavy rainfalls in June made it very challenging to work the soils, in the end the vines were balanced and we did not suffer the same amount of hydric stress felt by so many other regions. </p>
<p>We even had some light rain in August and at the very beginning of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvest</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> giving us grapes of great quantity and quality. We began on September 5th, interupted once on the 7th by a <glossary term="Hail" title="1136">hail</glossary> storm that touched the Northwest of the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Appellation" title="113">appellation</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> In <glossary term="Chavignol" title="278">Chavignol</glossary> there were zero impacts.</p>
<p>Qualitatively, we are in for a good <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintage</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> The <glossary term="Fermentation" title="441">fermentations</glossary> have been going well, with <glossary term="PH" title="783">PH</glossary> levels between 3.2 and 3.3, permitting us to keep a good amount of freshness. The alchohol will end up between 12.5 and 13.5, maybe as high at 13.7 on the Monts-Damnés. </p>
<p>2022 really reminds me of 2018, which is very promising! </p>
<p><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//957/9a/c7/9ac739cb614cf7d3b912972d3f595eaf.jpg" /><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//957/99/2d/992d6ea2ad5842d5fadcbcc486ec0901.jpg" /><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//957/d1/8d/d18d1f6900b0bb6728a615559a42fc9b.jpg" /><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//957/19/14/19140d077ed16cba9e5fb653fb8225ba.jpg" /><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//957/c4/0e/c40e52855fcde84e7b787f4fa512eadd.jpg" /><img src="https://louisdressner.com/uploads/images/article//957/14/45/14459c87a904cf4606d644092843a4e7.jpg" /></p>
Article
harvest report
15.12.2021
2021 Harvest Report from Jean-Paul Labaille
<p>No surprise, the 2021 <glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvest</glossary> was a very fast one, with a bit of rain that slightly affected the sanitary state of the grapes. Mont Damnés in particular was catastrophic for us, we picked about five <glossary term="Hectoliter" title="524">hectoliters</glossary> from our <glossary term="Hectare" title="523">hectare</glossary> of vines. We have therefore decided not to make a Mont Damnés <glossary term="Bottling" title="185">bottling</glossary> nor a "Cuvée Buster" in 2021. The little volume we had will be <glossary term="Blend" title="168">blended</glossary> into "L'Authentique 2021", itself a wine heavily impacted by <glossary term="Frost" title="1135">frost</glossary> with about 1/3rd of what we produced in 2020. </p>
<p>The alcohol will be lower than the last few years and there will be an <glossary term="Acidity" title="71">acidity</glossary> that I felt has been missing, so it's going to be more balanced than immediate past <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintages</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> We are turning the page on this forsaken year and hoping for the best in 2022. </p>
<p>One tiny bit of satisfaction: we won't make red but will produce a bit of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Rosé/Rosato" title="871">rosé</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
Article
harvest report
19.01.2020
2020 Harvest Report from Jean-Paul Labaille
<p><u><strong>November 8th, 2020:</strong></u></p>
<p>This year was very particular in every aspect, including our <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvest</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
<p>After <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Pruning" title="834">pruning</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> the evolution of the vines was very rapid due to constant high temperatures. <glossary term="Flowering" title="1179">Flowering</glossary> was super early so we were also anticipating a super early <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvest</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> We once again had a <glossary term="Drought" title="1167">drought</glossary> from June to September: lots of grapes on the vines but the lack of water made the skins harden and limited the juice in each berry.</p>
<p>Some <glossary term="Estate" title="427">estates</glossary> started picking in the last week of August; even 2003 was not this precocious. We began on September 3rd, as the <glossary term="alcoholic potential" title="1381">potentials</glossary> were rising quickly due to the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Drought" title="1167">drought</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> We harvested the <glossary term="Pinot Noir" title="805">Pinot</glossary> for the red and rosé because they were turning into dried raisins. <glossary term="Yield" title="1129">Yields</glossary> were quite low for reds, about 25<glossary term="hl/ha" title="528">hl/h</glossary> (a normal year would be around 50<glossary term="hl/ha" title="528">hl/h</glossary>). </p>
<p>We quickly followed with the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Sauvignon Blanc" title="927">Sauvignons</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> because here too the <glossary term="alcoholic potential" title="1381">potentials</glossary> were veering upwards: between 13.5 and 15%! "Monts Damnés" and "Cuvée Buster" will both be between 14 and 15%. With such high <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Maturation" title="639">maturities</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> <glossary term="Acidity" title="71">acidities</glossary> are low but we are starting to get used to this. Though I feel that <glossary term="Sauvignon Blanc" title="927">Sauvignon</glossary> should be fresher, we the <glossary term="Vigneron/Vignaiolo" title="1089">vignerons</glossary> and our customers need to accept this is what the wines are increasingly going to be like. </p>
Article
harvest report
27.04.2019
2019 Harvest Report from Jean-Paul Labaille
<p><strong><u>October 10th, 2019:</u></strong></p>
<p>2019 was yet another destabilizing <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1109">vintage</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> </p>
<p>The <glossary title="1179">flowering</glossary> suffered from the heat, resulting in an important <glossary title="1252">coulure</glossary> that eliminated a significant part of the crop, only to be followed up by additional damage from <glossary term="Frost" title="1135">frost</glossary> in late April. </p>
<p>As we work <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="999">sustainably</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> very few <glossary title="328">treatments</glossary> occurred in the vines this year, only three. But what is good for nature is not always great for the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1089">vigneron</glossary><span>:</span></span></span> the very mild winter with no low humidity followed by extreme heat from June to September made the vines suffer greatly. It also meant alcoholic degrees ballooning and the crop dwindling. </p>
<p>We began <glossary title="521">harvesting</glossary> on September 18th and finished on October 1st. We got some rain fall towards the end but it was too late: the crop is modest with <glossary term="alcoholic potential" title="1381">potentials</glossary> above 13% and relatively low <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="71">acidities</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Fortunetly the balance of the <glossary title="700">must</glossary> is good. It's yet another <glossary title="908">Sancerre</glossary> <glossary title="1109">vintage</glossary> that will show radically different based on which villages and <glossary term="Parcel" title="760">parcels</glossary> the wines come from. I think it will be quite similar to 2017, which should be confirmed after the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1104">vinifications</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> </p>
<p>In the end it's a good <glossary title="1109">vintage</glossary> with very healthy grapes (not a single rotten berry) but with wines becoming more and more unrecognizable to the <glossary title="908">Sancerres</glossary> we used to produce. I think we'll have to all get used to this style of wine: the vines of France is more and more marked and dependent on its climate.</p>
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harvest report
13.10.2017
2017 Harvest Report from Jean-Paul Labaille
<p>Another complicated year. We had heavy <glossary term="Frost" title="1135">frosts</glossary> in late April; in spite of many bails of hay light on fire, <glossary term="Chavignol" title="278">Chavignol</glossary> was not spared. This is the worst <glossary term="Frost" title="1135">frost</glossary> in the village since 1991. It was also a precocious year, and the hot summer sped things up even more; we originally planned to <glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvest</glossary> on September 7th, but ended up starting on the 15th.<br />
<br />
Though it was rainy during <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvest</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> the sanitary state of the grapes was good (though there was not much juice in the berries). The quantity is of course heavily affected by the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Frost" title="1135">frost</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> but the quality of the juices is there.<br />
<br />
On the 18th, the sun came back and we were able to work the Monts Damnés in beautiful weather. With the lowering <glossary term="Acidity" title="71">acidities</glossary> and higher degrees, it reminds me of 2015, but with a smaller crop. In fact, this is the smallest crop since 2009 on Monts Damnés.<br />
<br />
The higher degrees also mean <glossary term="Vinification" title="1104">vinification</glossary> will be more challenging. With the last few <glossary term="Vintage" title="1109">vintages</glossary> being drastically different climactically, our <glossary term="Sauvignon Blanc" title="927">Sauvignon</glossary> is having a hard time finding its balance. I can only imagine that things are going to get more drastic from village to village, because certain sectors are way more affected than others.</p>
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harvest report
26.11.2011
2011 Harvest Report from Jean-Paul Labaille
<p><u><strong>November 26th, 2011:</strong></u></p>
<p>All year we experienced the opposite climactic conditions of a normal <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1109">vintage</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Spring was very hot and dry, which considerably accelerated the plant's vegetation. They were in full bloom late May, which led us to believe we'd have a very precocious <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="521">harvest</glossary><span>.</span></span></span><br />
<br />
Starting mid-July, the weather started getting worse and we got an enormous amount of rain, as well as fairly low temperatures for the season. The pressure of dealing with <glossary title="1137">mildew</glossary> suddenly became something we were worried about for August.<br />
<br />
Our initial plan to <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> exceptionally early (in late August) was therefore thwarted, but we still had to act fast because we didn't want the grapes to rot. In such, we started on September 5th. Our first day was under the rain, but thankfully the sun was out the next day. The <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> was saved and the quality preserved. We continued picking until September 20th under good weather conditions.<br />
<br />
The <glossary term="alcoholic potential" title="1381">alcoholic potentials</glossary> are good (12.8% for the "Authentique"), and even a little high for the Mont Damnés (13.3%). Areas threatened by rot ended up drying out and the <glossary title="639">maturities</glossary> are good. We got there just in time, as the <glossary title="71">acidities</glossary> were on the brink of dropping.<br />
<br />
2011 is a particular <glossary title="1109">vintage</glossary> with an atypical vegetive cycle, but has produced balanced wines (stylistically they are somewhere in between 2009 and 2010), and production was normal. The summer rain, while unpleasant, brought the grapes back to life. Otherwise they would have dried out and our <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> would have been catastrophic.<br />
<br />
You could say 2011 was saved by the rain…</p>
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harvest report
16.10.2010
2010 Harvest Report from Jean-Paul Labaille
<p><u><strong>Chavignol, October 16th 2010:</strong></u></p>
<p>I am doing this brief <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> report on the 2010 <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> a little late. I had a problem right before <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> (a fall from a ladder resulting in a dislocated shoulder and a sprained wrist) which has been a bit of a handicap for me during this period.<br />
<br />
In terms of weather, 2010 was fairly average. After a rigorous winter, May and June were damp and the <glossary term="Flowering" title="1179">flowering</glossary> was irregular and pretty late which led us to predict an early October <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="521">harvest</glossary><span>.</span></span></span><br />
<br />
In contrast to the last few years, this September was quite cold which slowed down the ripening process.<br />
<br />
I will attack the <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> on October 1st, the weather is very uncertain and this scares us – there is a clear and present danger of rot.<br />
<br />
It rained 50mm the weekend before the <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> and this weakened the grapes.<br />
<br />
On Monday October 4th, an incessant rain beat down on us and forced us to send the pickers away. Tuesday was still damp but acceptable. Then on Wednesday, a miracle, the sun reappeared and saved us from despair. Disaster avoided.<br />
<br />
We finished the <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> on Monday October 11th, happy to have saved the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1109">vintage</glossary><span>.</span></span></span><br />
<br />
2010 has turned out to be more bountiful than the very small 2009 <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> and will also be a more balanced <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1109">vintage</glossary><span>.</span></span></span><br />
<br />
Later <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> years are much more characteristic of <glossary title="908">Sancerre</glossary> than earlier <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> years.<br />
<br />
2010 has good <glossary title="71">acidity</glossary> (between 5.5 and 6 g) and a beautiful finesse (I think we are close to the 2002 and 1996 <glossary title="1109">vintages</glossary>).<br />
<br />
The dry weather at the end of the <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> stopped the rot and we were able to bring in good quality grapes.<br />
<br />
If the <glossary title="441">fermentations</glossary> go well, the 2010 <glossary title="1109">vintage</glossary> will be a powerful engine to get <glossary title="908">Sancerre</glossary> lovers to start overindulging again.<br />
<br />
So this a ray of hope in a somewhat morose climate and with a vineyard dying of a disease which we cannot control (<glossary title="425">Esca</glossary>) , which not only kills around 10% of our vines every year but also brings serious financial costs.</p>
Article
harvest report
10.09.2008
2008 Harvest Report from Jean-Paul Labaille
<p>After rainy and cold July and August, disease (<glossary title="1137">mildew</glossary> and <glossary title="737">oidium</glossary>) got worse. The <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> of 2008 looked to be even more difficult than in 2007. We were planning a <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> like in the 1980s and 1990s, i.e. in early October.<br />
<br />
The second half of September was very dry and cold, which <glossary title="324">concentrated</glossary> the juice and the <glossary title="71">acidity</glossary> levels were high. The official date to start the <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> was set on Sept. 29th. On that day, we had a major disappointment: the <glossary title="1381">potential degree</glossary> was high (13.5%) and the <glossary title="1129">yields</glossary> were very low (30<glossary title="528">HL/HA</glossary>). We had to wait for some rain to soften the berries.<br />
<br />
On Oct. 3rd, I started with my <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="805">Pinot Noir</glossary><span>:</span></span></span> good quality and low <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1129">yields</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> which is perfect for the variety. On that day, we also got the rain we were hoping for.<br />
<br />
We started picking the <glossary title="927">Sauvignon</glossary> on Oct. 7th, our hopes are growing, since there is more juice and the degree has fallen to 12.5%. The <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> went slowly, this year one had to have patience. We finished on Oct. 14th with the Monts Damnés vines.<br />
<br />
2008 seems to have good balance, and small <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1129">yields</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> It should be a lot like 2007, but with more structure, and <glossary title="71">acidity</glossary> similar to 2002. We will know more after the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="441">fermentations</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
Article
harvest report
07.10.2006
2006 Harvest Report from Jean-Paul Labaille
<p><u><strong>October 7th, 2006:</strong></u></p>
<p>With their high temperatures, June and July caused <glossary term="Millerandage" title="1393">millerandage</glossary> (partial abortion of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1179">flowering</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> resulting in smaller and fewer berries on each <glossary title="1138">bunch</glossary>) and stress on the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1179">flowering</glossary><span>.</span></span></span><br />
<br />
August was cool and somewhat rainy, and the progress of <glossary title="639">maturation</glossary> was stopped. Then September started with hot temperatures and no rain, so that the <glossary title="324">concentration</glossary> got accelerated.<br />
<br />
The official starting date for the <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> was September 15th. Our pickers arrived on September 21st, and we picked our <glossary title="805">Pinot noir</glossary> first, just when the skins were going to wrinkle (a sign, especially on <glossary title="805">Pinot Noir</glossary> grapes, that optimum <glossary title="639">maturity</glossary> has been reached). There was good <span class="zalup"><span> <glossary title="1010">tannins</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> good color, a reasonable <glossary title="1129">yield</glossary> of 4 <span class="zalup"><span>5<glossary title="528">HL/HA</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> and a <glossary term="alcoholic potential" title="1381">potential degree</glossary> of 12.5% alcohol.<br />
<br />
We started picking our <glossary title="927">Sauvignon blanc</glossary> on September 23rd, with the grapes for<font color="#7b143e"><strong> "</strong></font>Cuvée Authentique". The <glossary title="1129">yield</glossary> was average, 5 <span class="zalup"><span>0<glossary title="528">HL/HA</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> the degrees were between 13 and 13.5% alcohol, with rather low <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="71">acidity</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> The grapes had suffered from the <span class="zalup"><span> <glossary term="Drought" title="1167">drought</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> the skins were thick and the juice difficult to extract.<br />
<br />
On Sunday September 24th, we were at rest, and it started to rain. This rainfall was highly beneficial, and from Monday on, the <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> on the Monts Damnés was much better balanced: the skins became softer and <glossary title="827">pressing</glossary> was a lot easier, the degrees went down slightly, as a result of the rain.<br />
<br />
We finished on Friday, September 29th with the traditional poêlée (end of <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> celebration dinner), which celebrates all the work accomplished through the growing season.<br />
<br />
I think this <glossary title="1109">vintage</glossary> will show similarities with 2005, with rich, fruity wines meant for medium-length age-worthiness. This opinion will, I hope, be confirmed when the <glossary title="1104">vinification</glossary> is over.</p>
Article
harvest report
03.10.2005
2005 Harvest Report from Jean-Paul Labaille
<p><u><strong>October 3rd, 2005:</strong></u></p>
<p>We started our <glossary title="521">harvest</glossary> on September 20th with 25 harvesters under wonderful weather and finished the 28th without seeing a drop of rain.<br />
<br />
The grapes were perfectly healthy, thanks to the dry weather in August. <glossary title="1129">Yields</glossary> are average, but the <glossary term="alcoholic potential" title="1381">potential degrees of alcohol</glossary> are very good, between 13 and 13.5%, so that there is no need to <glossary title="270">chaptalize</glossary> this <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1109">vintage</glossary><span>.</span></span></span><br />
<br />
I think 2005 is going to resemble 2002, with its great balance of sugar and <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="71">acidity</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> <glossary title="441">Fermentations</glossary> have started and I await confirmation of an excellent <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1109">vintage</glossary><span>.</span></span></span></p>
Article
harvest report
20.09.2003
2003 Harvest Report from Jean-Paul Labaille
<p>Today is October 26th and at this point, we can look back and try to summarize this very unusual year. The end of the <glossary term="Harvest" title="521">harvest</glossary> took place on September 20th in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="Sancerre" title="908">Sancerre</glossary><span>.</span></span></span><br />
<br />
The <glossary title="87">alcoholic fermentations</glossary> are practically finished, but it was tough going for the wines with high levels of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="alcoholic potential" title="1381">potential alcohol</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> Certain <glossary title="760">parcels</glossary> had 14.5-15% <glossary term="alcoholic potential" title="1381">potential alcohol</glossary> - degrees almost unheard of in <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="908">Sancerre</glossary><span>.</span></span></span><br />
<br />
<glossary title="71">Acidity</glossary> levels have been relatively low. We obtained the right to <glossary term="Acidification" title="70">acidify</glossary> this year to compensate. So far, I haven’t done it, I would prefer to respect the character of the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="1109">vintage</glossary><span>.</span></span></span><br />
<br />
On the other hand, the <glossary title="1133">plots</glossary> which suffered from the heat wave (with scorched leaves and grapes), had lower levels of <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="alcoholic potential" title="1381">potential alcohol</glossary><span>.</span></span></span> These will help to balance the rest, giving this year’s crop an average level of 13% <span class="zalup"><span><glossary term="alcoholic potential" title="1381">potential alcohol</glossary><span>.</span></span></span><br />
<br />
Fruit will not be the main characteristic this year. These wines will be round and <glossary title="324">concentrated</glossary> - a bit in the style of 1997. It’s possible that this will be an exceptional <glossary title="1109">vintage</glossary> for a few <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="760">parcels</glossary><span>.</span></span></span><br />
<br />
<glossary title="1104">Vinification</glossary> this year has not been run of the mill due to the fact that we are not at all used to working these sorts of wines.<br />
<br />
It’s still too early to taste objectively, but however it turns out, 2003 will long remain in our memories if not in the <span class="zalup"><span><glossary title="254">cellar</glossary><span>,</span></span></span> given that quantities are the opposite of the degrees.<br />
<br />
In other words, this small and exceptional <glossary title="1109">vintage</glossary> will be drunk young and with much pleasure.</p>
Article
Thomas-Labaille’s wines
Thomas-Labaille
Sancerre Blanc "L'Authentique"
Thomas-Labaille
Sancerre "Les Monts Damnés"
Thomas-Labaille
Sancerre "Les Monts Damnés Cuvée Buster"
Thomas-Labaille
Sancerre Rosé "L'Authentique"