A year like no one can remember, not even the oldest folks, and one would have to go back to 1805 to find something similar.
First of all, there was no winter. After the rainy harvest of 2006, there was nothing but a long, warm autumn without water or snow that then became spring with no changes. At the end of January 2007, there were days with max temperatures of 29° C (84° F). And then it continued like this: warm, sunny and, most of all, dry.
By mid-April, the vines had full shoots. The few days of rain in mid-May were followed by a new, dry heat wave that lasted until the end of June. During the first days of July, the grapes were already starting to change color! It was a dramatic drought, most of all in those which, in normal years, are our best vineyard sites. The vines heroically searched out the last drops of water buried deep in the earth, but deprived their grapes which stayed small and short on juice.
July was still hot, but with cool, dry evenings – perfect for developing the aromas. A heavy storm on the 4th of August restored the soil and the dried-out vines that had somewhat shut down but started again to allow the grapes to get bigger. On the 10th of August a few people started picking the precocious whites; by the 17th of August many were already picking the Moscato. We were still not satisfied – the drought had made the vines stingy in producing sugars. We waited until the 25th of August when most others were already finished.
We started first with the Moscato, optimal in quality but with very low yields, 40% less overall than in normal years. The potential alcohol was between 13 and 14 degrees. Four days later came an unexpected deluge of rain – over three inches of rain in one night! We had to wait a few days, but then the harvest restarted. The rain came too late, but carried some benefits nonetheless. We finished the 8th of September, earlier than in anyone’s memory.
Then came the Dolcetto: it was very small quantity, very good quality, but not at maximum maturation. We had to wait another 10 days: it had great body and good dry matter, but was more rustic than tame.
After that, the whites for the "Arcese": absolutely perfect! Never had I seen these grapes so healthy and beautifully shaped. They needed six days of maceration on the skins because it would have been a shame to press them right away.
At last, on the 14th of September, the Barbera, perhaps the grape that seems to have given the better result: powerful, smooth, great fruit and opulent, silky material. It is still fermenting after a month.
In the end, the most negative factor is the low yields. With respect to other years of record heat, 2003 for instance, the quality is much better, because the fruit was not scorched or cooked and the indigenous yeasts worked very well without problems. They will make for great drinking (We hope!) but in parsimonious portions. “Pòch, ma bon” as our old folks say! “A little, but good!”