September 26th, 2023:
We are almost done with the harvest, and just have a bit of Côt and Cabernet to pick in the coming weeks. We take this reprieve to write to you about the last three weeks in the vines.
We started on Monday, September 4th with a team of 70 pickers under a radiant sun that had us all VERY HOT. This trend persisted through the first week of harvest. On our second day, the 5th, we decided to start an hour earlier to take advantage of the cooler weather. This gave the pickers something unexpected: seeing the sun rise in the vines! On the third day of harvest, we picked the grapes for the Briords cuvée (which came in at an alcoholic potential of 11.95%) and threw out bunches that were in poor shape, likely due to the rains we experienced in late August. The following day we focused on parcels from Château Thébaud destined for a cru bottling. Friday, which was the hottest day yet, we picked the grapes for a new single-parcel cuvée on terroirs of pure gabbro, grapes we purchased but harvested ourselves.
After this exhausting, very hot week, the harvest team got a well deserved weekend of rest after all their hard work. No time for rest in the cellar though, where we were very busy: the first vats had started to ferment, imparting that specific, singular odor we only experience once a year.
The second week of picking was much more tolerable. The sun was still out but the heat was less suffocating. After focusing on many parcels destined for "La Pepie", on September 12th we picked the grapes that will produce "Gras Moutons". Similar to our first week in the vines, globally the harvest is quite beautiful, though there are little patches where we needed to sort and throw out some bunches. In total, I'd estimate a 5% to 7% loss in total volume. But the bunches we did pick were magnificent, nothing like 2022 where some had really suffered from the heat. In fact they were so generous that it wasn't uncommon to spot pickers taking big bites from them to keep cool. We picked the grapes for the Monnières Saint Fiacre cru on Wednesday, September 13th.
On Thursday the 14th, we'd pick the white grapes with the highest alcoholic potential, around 13.5% for the Clisson. On Monday the 18th, we were forced to pause for about an hour due to an episode of rain. And finally, on Wednesday the 19th, we finished up with the most late-ripening parcels for "La Pépie" and some others for cuvées we'll be able to talk more about in the near future. Right as we were getting ready to throw our big party to celebrate the 2023 harvest, the torrential rain we kept hearing and worrying about finally erupted from the sky. It was a very close call, and we were happy to hear the 40mm of rain furiously resonating on the roof of our cellar with all the juices safe inside.