September 22nd, 2020:
We are almost done with harvest (we still have a bit of Cabernet to pick). It's been another year of discovery; one nice thing about nature is that you are always learning.
Over the last decade, it has been very hard to understand how climate change will affect us in the long term; 2020 was the most precocious vintage our appellation has ever seen. Usually a hot, early year is characterized by high concentration and rising sugar levels. But in the end, maturities were the same as a "normal" harvest started in September. We think the 40mm of rain we got right before harvest unblocked the maturities.
So we started picking on August 24th, under a sun that stayed with us through the entire harvest (much to the delight of the pickers). A small rain on the afternoon of the 26th was the only time they had to put on their parkas.
We harvested the grapes for the "Briords" cuvée first with potentials around 11.3% and acidities of 5.2. The following days were dedicated to grapes for "La Pépie", with degrees around 11%. We were very surprised that the potentials weren't quickly spiking as the days went by. As mentioned above, our experience (and that of our elders) in a vintage like this is a very abrupt rise in concentration. This makes sense since the days are longer and the temperatures stay up longer. Maybe the very dry month of July had something to do with this...
We started our second week (still in August, Monday the 31st) in the parcels of Château-Thébaud with potentials of 11.8%, then the next day we were in Gorges. On September 3rd we picked "Gras Mouton" at dawn. These are the first presses that have potentials over 12%. The alcohol was finally climbing up, but very slowly. Ironically, we had invested in a second press this year in the idea of picking faster in case the potentials started ballooning out of control.
On Monday, September 7th, we picked the vines above the estate to make "Clisson"; as is always the case the grapes here were the most concentrated: 210 grams of sugar per liter for potentials of 12.8% and slightly lower acidities of 4.3. We were done with the whites on September 9th, a fact we are still very impressed with!
We harvested the Côt on September 9th and the 21st and have picked a part of the Cabernet. For the reds we did suffer some burnt clusters in certain sectors; it was surreal because some areas barely had grapes while other vines were bursting with fruit just three meters further.
When you think that you harvested some of your reds on a date when, 20 or 30 years ago, a vigneron would be cleaning the cellar, getting ready for his first day of harvest of whites, it really makes you think about how much has changed so quickly...



